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Rockslide Engineering Malfunction

cranbiz

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No hacking into the factory wiring with these. The magnets and sensors are extremely reliable once you get the placement right.
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ShadowsPapa

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No hacking into the factory wiring with these. The magnets and sensors are extremely reliable once you get the placement right.
Exactly. After doing the JLU, the JT wiring went fast and I had magnet placement all figured out. I think I moved one magnet but used painters tape to locate them, marked where things belonged then applied them permanently. A person can remove these if you trade vehicles and not ever touch the factory wiring. If something does happen to them on either of our Jeeps, servicing them will be a breeze. I know exactly how to test things now (and their service and support is among the best I've ever seen)
The doors on my JT get opened and closed a lot - it's our daily driver and my wife is often in the truck with me which means the passenger doors get used a lot.
I hate cutting into or tapping into factory wiring. I just hate it and when I see "just use taps" I cringe. These aren't 1970 vehicles where it's either a ground or 12v power and nothing else.
Didn't take long to get to where you don't even notice the switches or magnets. No way I'm tapping into the factory wires and giving a dealership reason to balk or deny any electrical service. If there's any issue - pull a single fuse and if the dealership balks - simple remove the wires from the ground and power under the hood. Done. Factory wiring never touched.
 

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I can confirm the newest control boards in the steps (black ones) on the gen 3 do not cycle up and down after disconnecting and reconnecting 12v power.

For anyone with white control boards and issues with the steps stopping working after a short period even after disconnecting and reconnecting 12v power, the black ones will fix your issues. Rockslide replaced my white boards (which I've had intermittent issues for the last year plus) and all problems are solved using the black control boards.

Also for anyone replacing the control boards that didn't originally install the steps:

-You cannot just loosen the body mount bolts and slide the steps off as the front and rear brackets will get stuck on the body. Hence you have to disconnect the step from those front and rear brackets(4 bolts each)
-Steps are bolted through the body pinch seam (8 bolts i think) that also have to come off
-If you have the extra armor you may have issues accessing the bolts that hold the step to the mounting bracket especially the rear. I had to drill out the rivets and remove the smaller back section of the armor. After it was off i clearanced the rearmost holes so i wouldn't have the issue again and a socket would easily fit through the armor.
 
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I can confirm the newest control boards in the steps (black ones) on the gen 3 do not cycle up and down after disconnecting and reconnecting 12v power.

For anyone with white control boards and issues with the steps stopping working after a short period even after disconnecting and reconnecting 12v power, the black ones will fix your issues. Rockslide replaced my white boards (which I've had intermittent issues for the last year plus) and all problems are solved using the black control boards.

Also for anyone replacing the control boards that didn't originally install the steps:

-You cannot just loosen the body mount bolts and slide the steps off as the front and rear brackets will get stuck on the frame. Hence you have to disconnect the step from those front and rear brackets(4 bolts each)
-Steps are bolted through the body pinch seam 8 bolts i think that also have to come off
-If you have the extra armor you may have issues accessing the bolts that hold the step to the mounting bracket especially the rear. I had to drill out the rivets and remove the smaller back section of the armor. After it was off i clearanced the rearmost holes so i wouldn't have the issue again and a socket would easily fit through the armor.
I have a gen3 set that definitely cycles when power is restored. I thought that was a self test. I didn’t know they changed to new boards mid generation. Do they consider the old boards to be bad, or recalled? Meaning should I call them and ask for replacements? Thanks for the heads up.
 

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I have a gen3 set that definitely cycles when power is restored. I thought that was a self test. I didn’t know they changed to new boards mid generation. Do they consider the old boards to be bad, or recalled? Meaning should I call them and ask for replacements? Thanks for the heads up.
If you don't have issues as i think many don't then you are probably ok. If you have issues with the steps stopping working then I'd say contact them.
 

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If you don't have issues as i think many don't then you are probably ok. If you have issues with the steps stopping working then I'd say contact them.
Mine work fine. Other than two light kits failing, they’ve been indestructible since late 2021.
 

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I have a gen3 set that definitely cycles when power is restored. I thought that was a self test. I didn’t know they changed to new boards mid generation. Do they consider the old boards to be bad, or recalled? Meaning should I call them and ask for replacements? Thanks for the heads up.
Ours do not. I asked their support about it after I had that board problem because the "book" still said it would cycle. She said no, these would not.
They calibrate by the first door open/close cycle. You can pull the fuse, count to 20 and put it back in and they won't cycle.
I had a problem when our 4xe was worked on because they had killed power, removed a ton of stuff (body off to replace the transmission) and it was brought out to us with the driver step not working fully - it only went half way down and stopped.
I opened the hood, pulled the fuse, put the fuse back in, then went and opened and closed the driver door and the step cycled and calibrated and has been fine since.
So there was a change made somewhere............

Their support is among the best I've ever worked with either in automotive or IT type things.

And other than when my JT passenger side step froze in the up position due to our brine, snow and ice combination, they've worked fine. In that case I got out, walked around, kicked the step, my wife opened the door and it worked. I then washed and lubed them.
 

WILDHOBO

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Ours do not. I asked their support about it after I had that board problem because the "book" still said it would cycle. She said no, these would not.
They calibrate by the first door open/close cycle. You can pull the fuse, count to 20 and put it back in and they won't cycle.
I had a problem when our 4xe was worked on because they had killed power, removed a ton of stuff (body off to replace the transmission) and it was brought out to us with the driver step not working fully - it only went half way down and stopped.
I opened the hood, pulled the fuse, put the fuse back in, then went and opened and closed the driver door and the step cycled and calibrated and has been fine since.
So there was a change made somewhere............

Their support is among the best I've ever worked with either in automotive or IT type things.

And other than when my JT passenger side step froze in the up position due to our brine, snow and ice combination, they've worked fine. In that case I got out, walked around, kicked the step, my wife opened the door and it worked. I then washed and lubed them.
Their support is top notch for sure. I’m well versed on the frozen phenomenon. It happens a few times per winter. But they are designed for it. Slush creates a frozen layer over them. The 20amp fuse blows before anything is damaged. I kick both steps until they’re obviously free, then replace the fuse. All good. I have several 20’s in the glove box for this reason. I use a lot of silicone spray lubricant on all the moving parts on these proactively. I’ve had zero issues with them.
 

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With the armor being so heavy, I just fabricate some scaffolding with floor jack stands, gorrilla tape and 2x4s. You can slide them off by yourself and work on them by yourself, test them with your electrical hookup close by, then, slide them back on by yourself.

Jeep Gladiator Rockslide Engineering Malfunction u7vSFr
 

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With the armor being so heavy, I just fabricate some scaffolding with floor jack stands, gorrilla tape and 2x4s. You can slide them off by yourself and work on them by yourself, test them with your electrical hookup close by, then, slide them back on by yourself.

u7vSFr.jpg
Pretty much what I did with milk crates and wood blocks. Small jack stands work great and take up less room.
 

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I want to add a data point to the discussion. My wife reported the passenger side RSE step did not extend on our 2021 Mojave (steps are about one year old). I tried the door a couple of times, pulled the RSE fuse in the engine compartment, and inspected all of the wiring for rodent damage or obvious wiring defects, and found none. I sent an email to RSE, Support responded within an hour and gave me the book directions, starting with "pull the fuse.., press the seat rail button". The seat rail button extended the step momentarily (about 3 seconds) and then the step would retract. When I explained what I had already done, and what I was seeing, RSE Support said it sounded like the door switch mounted to the seat rail was bad and they would send a new one.

I received the new switch within two days. My original switch was a simple push switch, no "off" or "on" indicated, and with two connections on the back. The replacement switch was a switch very similar to, or the same, as the RSE power switch under the dash, with "off" and "on" indicated. I thought they sent the wrong switch but I installed it anyway, and the system worked properly. When I sent another email to RSE, Support told me that this was the new replacement switch model. Photo has the original RSE switch on the left, RSE
Jeep Gladiator Rockslide Engineering Malfunction RSE Seat Rail Switches
replacement on the right.
As noted several times earlier in this thread, RSE's product support is fantastic!
 

jc99

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I have a gen3 set that definitely cycles when power is restored. I thought that was a self test. I didn’t know they changed to new boards mid generation. Do they consider the old boards to be bad, or recalled? Meaning should I call them and ask for replacements? Thanks for the heads up.
If you aren't having problems then i wouldn't go through the hastle of trying to replace the control board. With the white control boards, cycling with a fuse pull (removing and reapplying power) is normal.
 

ShadowsPapa

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I want to add a data point to the discussion. My wife reported the passenger side RSE step did not extend on our 2021 Mojave (steps are about one year old). I tried the door a couple of times, pulled the RSE fuse in the engine compartment, and inspected all of the wiring for rodent damage or obvious wiring defects, and found none. I sent an email to RSE, Support responded within an hour and gave me the book directions, starting with "pull the fuse.., press the seat rail button". The seat rail button extended the step momentarily (about 3 seconds) and then the step would retract. When I explained what I had already done, and what I was seeing, RSE Support said it sounded like the door switch mounted to the seat rail was bad and they would send a new one.

I received the new switch within two days. My original switch was a simple push switch, no "off" or "on" indicated, and with two connections on the back. The replacement switch was a switch very similar to, or the same, as the RSE power switch under the dash, with "off" and "on" indicated. I thought they sent the wrong switch but I installed it anyway, and the system worked properly. When I sent another email to RSE, Support told me that this was the new replacement switch model. Photo has the original RSE switch on the left, RSE
RSE Seat Rail Switches.jpg
replacement on the right.
As noted several times earlier in this thread, RSE's product support is fantastic!
Back in February/March 2023, the switch on the right is what both of my sets came with for the under dash switch - even though the docs still showed the older style dash switch.
(talking about the switch that mounts under the left side of the dash next to the OBD port - I don't have a "seat rail"??? switch, no doors off kit, etc. I don't even know what a seat rail switch is LOL)
So they do keep making changes, improving and so on. They learn......... and they advance things. GREAT company.

With mine, pulling the fuse, then putting it back does not recycle the steps - like said, that's also a change. It used to be the steps would cycle and do their position sensing when the fuse was put back in.
If you pull the fuse, then put it back, THEN open and close a door, it does it's POST and position sensing at that point, not when you put the fuse back in.
Again, the directions were a tad behind but their support explained I had the very latest version (bought directly from them, so they knew exactly what I had)
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