shocked by shock and spring replacement cost

[Lateralus]

It took me 3 hours on a friday after coming home from work and that was in my garage in 95 degree humid Ohio weather, completely drenched in sweat. I drank about 5, 24 ounce glasses of water during the install. I dont think I would pay even $150 for someone else to do it.

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[jeep671]

Dealership pricing is insane, especially here on Guam! My Gladiator didn't come with the auxiliary switch, so I asked for a quote for the part and installation cost breakdown. I hate dealing with electrical, but I will do it, since they quoted me $1,325 (Part for $450 and installation for $875). I looked at them in complete disbelief. My go to sites for all my mopar parts are from either moparpartsgiant or jeepsareus because they will ship to Guam via United States Postal Service Priority Mail.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

And no alignment needed your not touching the tie-rod or any geometry.

I would think not since replacing the front Overland springs with front Rubicon springs is 3/4" max from what others have said who have done the same. Even if I was disconnecting the tie rod, that's a joint I could pop apart and not change any length.

 

[Texops]

I would think not since replacing the front Overland springs with front Rubicon springs is 3/4" max from what others have said who have done the same. Even if I was disconnecting the tie rod, that's a joint I could pop apart and not change any length.

Yeah i have done the very same thing Overland to Rubicon springs and shocks. But i know you are using Max Tow rear which sounds like a great plan since you tow your car. I really did like using Rubicon shocks compared to Overland way less bouncy more control.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

It took me 3 hours on a friday after coming home from work and that was in my garage in 95 degree humid Ohio weather, completely drenched in sweat. I drank about 5, 24 ounce glasses of water during the install. I dont think I would pay even $150 for someone else to do it.

That sounds like home. I have been trying to clean up, re-arrange, toss, sort and make space in the garage. I walk out there and start sweating and have to wear a head band or the sweat rolls into my eyes...........
It's supposed to be a tiny bit cooler next week so I'm going to give it a go (and I hear you folks get our weather a day or two later - so get ready for a bit of relief)

Anywho - between your comments, texops comments and so on, first day we don't hit 90, I'll go for it. No lift, nothing will be taller or longer, so shouldn't be a problem that way. It's just with my shop full, it will have to happen in my garage with no AC and limited lighting and space. I guess that's ok - before I built my big shop, I did engine rebuilds in the garage including removal and installation.

I had this car stripped completely down, hod to hold the engine up with a jack stand because I pulled the entire front suspension, cross member, steering, springs, all of it........... if it was part of the steering or suspension system at all, it was off the car.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

Dealership pricing is insane, especially here on Guam! My Gladiator didn't come with the auxiliary switch, so I asked for a quote for the part and installation cost breakdown. I hate dealing with electrical, but I will do it, since they quoted me $1,325 (Part for $450 and installation for $875). I looked at them in complete disbelief. My go to sites for all my mopar parts are from either moparpartsgiant or jeepsareus because they will ship to Guam via United States Postal Service Priority Mail.

Hindsite sure is 20/20 on that $295 option isn't it?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I LOVE electrical work - CANBUS is different, but I really do enjoy electric work. It was fun merging the Grand Cherokee PCM, PDC and other parts into the original wiring of this

 

[Lateralus]

That sounds like home. I have been trying to clean up, re-arrange, toss, sort and make space in the garage. I walk out there and start sweating and have to wear a head band or the sweat rolls into my eyes...........
It's supposed to be a tiny bit cooler next week so I'm going to give it a go (and I hear you folks get our weather a day or two later - so get ready for a bit of relief)

Anywho - between your comments, texops comments and so on, first day we don't hit 90, I'll go for it. No lift, nothing will be taller or longer, so shouldn't be a problem that way. It's just with my shop full, it will have to happen in my garage with no AC and limited lighting and space. I guess that's ok - before I built my big shop, I did engine rebuilds in the garage including removal and installation.

I had this car stripped completely down, hod to hold the engine up with a jack stand because I pulled the entire front suspension, cross member, steering, springs, all of it........... if it was part of the steering or suspension system at all, it was off the car.

We keep our garage pretty tidy because we both park in it. I had to modify my homemade shelf when I bought the gladiator because it's so long so it just barely fits length wise.

I suggest starting in the morning around 7am when it's about 20 degrees cooler. It is a pretty easy install especially since our trucks are so new. I used a 2x4 about 3 to 4 foot long on the rear to pry each side of the axle down so the spring would pull out. I had my wife help me. On the rear swaybar end links, remove the top end that is bolted to the frame since it has a captive nut. Makes it slightly easier IMO. Wedge your 2x4 on top of the brake disc and under the bump stop. Easy pry down point.

I used a Milwaukee cordless 1/2" impact for about half of the fasteners and it saved alot of energy. So use them if you have them.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

We keep our garage pretty tidy because we both park in it. I had to modify my homemade shelf when I bought the gladiator because it's so long so it just barely fits length wise.

I suggest starting in the morning around 7am when it's about 20 degrees cooler. It is a pretty easy install especially since our trucks are so new. I used a 2x4 about 3 to 4 foot long on the rear to pry each side of the axle down so the spring would pull out. I had my wife help me. On the rear swaybar end links, remove the top end that is bolted to the frame since it has a captive nut. Makes it slightly easier IMO. Wedge your 2x4 on top of the brake disc and under the bump stop. Easy pry down point.

I used a Milwaukee cordless 1/2" impact for about half of the fasteners and it saved alot of energy. So use them if you have them.

I just put up several of the rails and hooks to hang things neatly on walls like you have. My garage isn't finished - just open stud walls, not attached garage, so still looks like heck.
Easy to swap the hooks and hangers around as things change. Made a huge difference. I just have "too much stuff" as my wife keeps saying. She kept threatening to call 1-800-gotjunk - she started to sound serious.

Thanks - good advice.
I recently bought a Milwaukee Fuel with advertised 1400 ft/lbs of torque on the recommendation of a friend who does auto restoration for others. He said it's great for those really tight or even rusty parts in the front ends. It's nearly double the weight of some of my other air tools, but it works nice.
I've got a whole rack of long 2x4s and others, no problem there.

 

[Texops]

I just put up several of the rails and hooks to hang things neatly on walls like you have. My garage isn't finished - just open stud walls, not attached garage, so still looks like heck.
Easy to swap the hooks and hangers around as things change. Made a huge difference. I just have "too much stuff" as my wife keeps saying. She kept threatening to call 1-800-gotjunk - she started to sound serious.

Thanks - good advice.
I recently bought a Milwaukee Fuel with advertised 1400 ft/lbs of torque on the recommendation of a friend who does auto restoration for others. He said it's great for those really tight or even rusty parts in the front ends. It's nearly double the weight of some of my other air tools, but it works nice.
I've got a whole rack of long 2x4s and others, no problem there.

Hey i bought that Milwaukee impact it’s scary powerful it’ll take every bolt off of your Jeep or break it lol

 

[wvyankee2]

Typical shop rate around here is about $100 an hour.

 

[jeep671]

Hindsite sure is 20/20 on that $295 option isn't it?

If they had given me the option, I believe I may have jumped on it.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Front is done. Rubicon springs and shocks up front.
Gained about 1" at the axle.
Starting point -
15.25" from floor to bottom of front end of running boards
15.25" from floor to bottom of the 2" hole in the front receiver.
After -
16" from floor to bottom of front end of running boards
16.372" from floor to bottom of the 2" hole in the front receiver
That figures to about 1" at the axle.
Will measure again after rear is done and I've driven it a couple of miles.
More later, pics, etc. when all done and cleaned up and tools put away.

 

[FWoggy]

Just for kicks, and because my wife said I was too busy and had too many other projects to do it myself (plus my shop is FULL of cars to work on) I asked the dealer's shop - what would it cost to install shocks and springs that I supply - take-offs from other JTs.
They seemed sort of "huh?" for a moment, then I told them I had a set of 4 shocks from a JT Rubicon and a pair of rear Sport S max tow springs, and Rubicon front springs I was going to put on my truck - what would it cost if they did it. I would furnish the parts, ready to go.
I figured maybe it would take them a couple of hours, 3 tops, especially with their shop, tools, lift, torque specs on hand and so on.
I dunno what their rate is but - $680!
Holy cow - told my wife there was no way I was spending that kind of money to do something I've done dozens of times on cars over the years - just last year did a total suspension and steering rebuild on my 73 and swapped all 4 springs and shocks and put on Caltrac bars, too. How much time can it take on the JT compared to removing rusty leaf spring bolts from the frame.
The front shocks on my cars are inside the front springs, and a royal pain to get to the two nuts that hold the bottom of the front shocks to the spring support - and the rear shocks - the tops are up in the TRUNK - and this old guy doesn't have fun squatting in the trunk of a car reaching into small holes to take the nuts off the shock tops.
The JT has to be 1/10th as hard as doing shocks on my cars!
Takes a special spring compressor to do the front springs on those cars - and time. You have to take off tires, shock tower top, remove the front shocks, insert the compressor......... anyway, it's a process.
Anywho - the service writer guy showed me the number 680 and I must have had a stunned look on my face as I said ok, thanks............

I watched a Youtube on the swap and the did the exact same thing myself with the help of my son. About 2 hours total. I paid $350 for the shocks and springs and am very satisfied with the ride. The front came up about 1" and the rear about 1/2". I got the take offs from Ruditrux, they shipped for free.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Silly question - Rubicon Fox shocks, the stock JTR shocks, the plastic sleeve has a cutout or opening - on the rear shocks, does that face to the front of the truck or to the rear?
I see no clearance issues either way, it would fit either way and not rub, but I assume that cutout is there for a reason?
Anyone have a pic of the Rubicon JT rear shock - or can say which way that opening or cutout should face - forward or to the back?

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