Should I NOT upgrade Axel Shafts so Gears Break Last - Dana 44 on 37s

[thedigitalmc]

So I have a tendancy to overthink things... but...

I'm putting 37 in tires on my Jeep gladiator. Will likely be running 4.88 gears with 1k - 2k added weight for overlanding. It's running Dana 44 axles. I was considering upgrading the axle shafts to chromoly steel. I know this would reinforce the axle and shafts.

My super important and totally reasonable question though is it better to have weaker axle shafts so they act kinda like a "fuse" that way if something's going to fail from a bad desicion, it will be the axle shaft and not the gears inside which is a more expensive and debilitating fix. I can drive with a single broken axel... not broken gears(... I think). Would it make more sense to not upgrade the actual shaft? I will be doing a Truss on the Axel and Gussets and using Revolution Gears for the gear swap.

The Axel Shafts I were considering were the Revolution ones as well: https://revolutiongear.com/revoluti...adiator-jt-sport-4340-chromoly-rear-axle-kit/

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[CrazyCooter]

I haven't seen a single axle failure come through my shop either front or rear on a JL/JT and most guys have 37's installed. That said I can't recommend anyone spend the money..........

Now RCV's up front, maybe? Yes they leak grease a bit and will probably need rebuilt every 60-100K, but getting rid of the shock loading and irritation of crow hop when cornering might be worth it to you?

 

[thedigitalmc]

I haven't seen a single axle failure come through my shop either front or rear on a JL/JT and most guys have 37's installed. That said I can't recommend anyone spend the money..........

Now RCV's up front, maybe? Yes they leak grease a bit and will probably need rebuilt every 60-100K, but getting rid of the shock loading and irritation of crow hop when cornering might be worth it to you?

Are you referring to these? https://rebeloffroad.com/rcv-ultima...-rubicon-392-jl-gladiator-jt-rubicon-1-piece/

I honestly have no idea what these are. Can you briefly explain how these will help get rid of the shock loading? And do I only get these on front?

 

[905_gladiator]

Currently I'm running 4.88's and 37's and as you can see with some weight. I live in Toronto, flat land all around with the only off-roading is running up the Starbucks drive thru.

If your rear axle shafts are leaking I would say replace the rears, I opted for Dana Chromemoly, solid piece comes preassembled and no fuss.

Don't know anyone who had the Revolution ones, seems like all the Insta-shammers are rocking Revolution stuff

as stated above i would also recommend the RCV's well worth the investment, other than that it should be a sold rig to go!

 

[Janster]

For the rear..... You could get Chromoly shafts (we had Moser's). And carry your original shafts as spares (always carry a spare). OR....find some used cheap OEM shafts to keep as spares and leave your original shafts in.

For the front.... I don't know what your OEM rig has.... It's unusual to break front shafts. You're more likely to break ujoints (and possibly damage the ears). I would just find some cheap used OEM shafts....and carry a couple NEW ujoints.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Are you referring to these? https://rebeloffroad.com/rcv-ultima...-rubicon-392-jl-gladiator-jt-rubicon-1-piece/

I honestly have no idea what these are. Can you briefly explain how these will help get rid of the shock loading? And do I only get these on front?

Yes, that brand/type, but not that part number......Get the correct one for your application.

The universal joints that are in our front axles (assuming not AWD/Full time like a 392 as those axle have a Rzeppa joint like our rear drivelines) have 4 pivot points, so when they are bent while the steering wheel is cut, they have to speed up/slow down twice per revolution. This loads the drivetrain in 4wd especially on a slick surface. The RCV's use a similar design to the Rzeppa which has 6 pivot points, so the speeds when cut or more even therefore delivering power MUCH more smoothly not shock loading the entire drivetrain and wiggling the steering wheel. This alone makes a huge difference loads, but RCV even claims to be 2X the strength at full cut over stock.

That said, I can get them at wholesale and install them for free owning an axle shop........I don't have them in my JT, but I do in my YJ because I don't feel they are needed, they leak grease, and require maintenance that the OE joint don't.

 

[rharr]

Are you referring to these? https://rebeloffroad.com/rcv-ultima...-rubicon-392-jl-gladiator-jt-rubicon-1-piece/

I honestly have no idea what these are. Can you briefly explain how these will help get rid of the shock loading? And do I only get these on front?

Please don't take this the wrong way, but if you aren't sure how RCV axles work or the benefits, then you need to spend more time researching types of upgrades and for what reason you do the upgrade. Basically get some more technical knowledge about stuff so you can make informed decisions about what you need for your application.

If you don't want to do the research then it might be best to hire a shop that does have technical knowledge that can make recommendation for you on what you need for your application.

You will get the knowledge by hanging out here and skimming topics daily that may relate to things your interested in learning about.

 

[rharr]

Yes, that brand/type, but not that part number......Get the correct one for your application.

The universal joints that are in our front axles (assuming not AWD/Full time like a 392 as those axle have a Rzeppa joint like our rear drivelines) have 4 pivot points, so when they are bent while the steering wheel is cut, they have to speed up/slow down twice per revolution. This loads the drivetrain in 4wd especially on a slick surface. The RCV's use a similar design to the Rzeppa which has 6 pivot points, so the speeds when cut or more even therefore delivering power MUCH more smoothly

Just to add to CC post, when you think RCV, think front wheel drive cars and how they drive well and there is no weirdness when turning. Basically they take a front wheel drive cars joint design and use it on our jeeps for smoother 4x4 action.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Just to add to CC post, when you think RCV, think front wheel drive cars and how they drive well and there is no weirdness when turning. Basically they take a front wheel drive cars joint design and use it on our jeeps for smoother 4x4 action.

I'd even consider the OEM axles that come in the "The Rock-Trac® Full-Time 4x4" equipped trucks provided they aren't much weaker. No leaks and smooth!

 

[thedigitalmc]

I like the idea of keeping stock Axels as a backup. I'll do that for sure.

This loads the drivetrain in 4wd especially on a slick surface. The RCV's use a similar design to the Rzeppa which has 6 pivot points, so the speeds when cut or more even therefore delivering power MUCH more smoothly not shock loading the entire drivetrain and wiggling the steering wheel. This alone makes a huge difference loads, but RCV even claims to be 2X the strength at full cut over stock.

It seems these are a worthwile upgrade if you have the extra capital, but not nessisary. From my understanding it's this sudden torque on the components which cause a majoirty of failures. I don't mind investing now if it saves me $ later. I'm sitting here watching youtube videos on RCVs now lol. Is the matinence hard? I can re-grease them I think, I'm not super worried there. If it can save a ring & pinion failure worth the extra time.

Please don't take this the wrong way, but if you aren't sure how RCV axles work or the benefits, then you need to spend more time researching types of upgrades and for what reason you do the upgrade.

I don't get stressed about that, I appreciate the heads up! My shop suggested Chromoly shafts and never brought this up. Admitidly I only have 20-30 hours of research into axels at this point, and there is so much to learn that these forums really help just get me from 0-60 a whole lot quicker. I saw two Jeep Techs suggest to limit structural updates at the cost of a more expensive failure which is why I brought this up. Seems RCVs could be a solid next step... but to your point I'm still taking time with it.

 

[JT1]

As long as you are aware that you are over GVWR and drive like it, you will probably be fine on easy trails and dirt roads getting to camping locations. If you try to really rock crawl being that heavy, prepare for breakage, especially carrying 2000 pounds.

That being said, I kept my build as light as I could and play in the rocks and haven't had a single issue with the axles at either end. I'm running 5.13s and 37s with a manual.

 

[CrazyCooter]

I like the idea of keeping stock Axels as a backup. I'll do that for sure.



It seems these are a worthwile upgrade if you have the extra capital, but not nessisary. From my understanding it's this sudden torque on the components which cause a majoirty of failures. I don't mind investing now if it saves me $ later. I'm sitting here watching youtube videos on RCVs now lol. Is the matinence hard? I can re-grease them I think, I'm not super worried there. If it can save a ring & pinion failure worth the extra time.




I don't get stressed about that, I appreciate the heads up! My shop suggested Chromoly shafts and never brought this up. Admitidly I only have 20-30 hours of research into axels at this point, and there is so much to learn that these forums really help just get me from 0-60 a whole lot quicker. I saw two Jeep Techs suggest to limit structural updates at the cost of a more expensive failure which is why I brought this up. Seems RCVs could be a solid next step... but to your point I'm still taking time with it.

I personally have never seen a JT/JL ring and pinion failure in my shop either......I know it has happened though by reading on the forums. It really depends on what your use and driving style is. My clients do Moab, Rubicon, and other trails all the time with zero issues.......I'm saying I don't feel it's worthwhile in my truck for my use. If you use your truck like I do and don't whiskey throttle, use the money for things that will make you smile........Hookers and blow!

Here is another way to look at it.........At my shop, I do EVERY bearing/seal during a gear job (even if the truck has 1 mile on it) since the warranty on the whole job regardless of who's part fails falls on me in our state. The cost the replace the axle bearings with parts and labor is about half of what new rear axle shafts cost........Take that under consideration as well?

 

[thedigitalmc]

As long as you are aware that you are over GVWR and drive like it, you will probably be fine on easy trails and dirt roads getting to camping locations. If you try to really rock crawl being that heavy, prepare for breakage, especially carrying 2000 pounds.

Yeah I over estimated a bit. Not quite 2k :/ But yeah roll cage, steel bumper ect. I am a slow driver, we'll see.

..I'm saying I don't feel it's worthwhile in my truck for my use. If you use your truck like I do and don't whiskey throttle, use the money for things that will make you smile

I think you are right - These seem like the kind of thing I can replace at a future time if need be. I'm just getting lockers and re-gearing so while everything was apart I was trying to do some "smart upgrades". Thanks for your advice. I keep getting so many conflicting opinions! I'll probobly hold off for now.

 

[Rusty PW]

I had the RCV joints in my Power Wagon for close to 80,000 miles. They only threw grease if you over greased them. 2 pumps of the grease gun every oil change. Think the warranty on them was that they could handle 44" tires.

 

[CrazyCooter]

The RCV's in my YJ have leaked from day one as have all the ones I have installed in JK's. The set I installed into a client's JT might possibly be the leakiest joints yet and no grease has been added in the couple of months they have been installed.

My YJ only gets about 1000 miles + or - per year and I just clean them up while it on the lift for inspections.

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