Slider mounting location

[1GladEWAL]

I'd like to see from the group how you mounted your shop built sliders. I Just started a build that is a hybrid step/slider. I built a scale model from foam so that I can disassemble it and have templates to cut the steel. I am planning to use 3/16 for the bottom and sides, and maybe 10ga for the top to save a bit of weight....
I've also got interior gussets every foot or so. I'd like to bolt the unit to the frame using existing holes, (No drilling, or welding if possible) but am not seeing a great spot at the rear where the frame narrows. Also, the connecting arm at the rear seems like it will be very long, (Leverage, and physics type things)
Full disclosure, I tend to over-engineer/ build things, So if any body has any input to lighten or simplify this using the same form factor feel free to chime in. Foam is easier to cut than steel. As far as projected use is concerned, I'd like it to take severe use even though it most likely won't see it.
Thanks for looking, Let me know what you think

Sponsored

 

[Coldtoes]

I can't add much besides to suggest that there are many bolt on sliders available so perhaps by looking at those photos you can figure out where the (reputable) manufacturers have attached that rear point.
Mostly I'm just interested in watching this build!

 

[TomH]

I did not use the body mount bolts on mine. Near the front wheels is a tube through the frame. I used that and I used the skid plate mounts in the bottom of the frame. Towards the back There is a hole in the frame on each side that I used a nut welded to flat stock to mount to. It is very solid. I did not want to use the body mount bolts as I have read so much about the spinning but not coming loose.

 

[TomH]

Here is the front mount, where the tube in the frame is.

 

[TomH]

The other two locations

 

[1GladEWAL]

Thanks for the pics! What size stock did you use for the arms and straps? Have you had them in the rocks yet? Any flex or deflection? I was planning on using that
front hole, seems very strong. I might use a 3 sided mount so I can bolt through the whole assembly and get a clamping action as well? I am going to use 2" square tubing for the arms, and 3/16 for the mounting plate. Again, feel free to voice your opinions...
Also, a great suggestion about product photos. Can anyone share pics of their commercially available frame mounted rock sliders? Good, bad, or otherwise?
Maybe Shrockworks, or White Knuckle?

 

[TomH]

The flat stock I used is 3/16” thick. Everything else is 1/8” thick. I haven’t beat on these but the ones on my Cherokee were all 1/8” thick and they were abused, but plenty strong.

I’ve always made things too heavy and lately I’ve been thinking about weight also. There’s a lot of steel in 1/8”. These sliders will support the weight of the vehicle.

 

[Artsifrtsi]

There are reasons that nearly all sliders and steps out on the market do not frame mount. You end up with a very good lever to twist and torque the frame. Body and frame mounted sliders allow to much vibration to enter the body to be comfortable for a vehicle on the road.

When you look at the factory sliders on the Rubicon/mojave, you can actually jack up and support the entire truck by the sliders.

@1GladEWAL, I think they look good, but really may be WAY overbuilt, and would be too heavy. I like that you did what the aftermarket struggles with, and followed the body rather than just a straight pipe, leaving it close in the center and gapped at the ends. i think for the factory mount you may end up with large levers on the body too, you may want some attachments that go from the bottom of the steps, and attach to the floor of the cab just outside the frame, and use a plate on the opposite side of the floor to bolt to. (sandwich the floor between the mount and backing plate)

 

[Rusty PW]

There are reasons that nearly all sliders and steps out on the market do not frame mount. You end up with a very good lever to twist and torque the frame. Body and frame mounted sliders allow to much vibration to enter the body to be comfortable for a vehicle on the road.

When you look at the factory sliders on the Rubicon/mojave, you can actually jack up and support the entire truck by the sliders.

@1GladEWAL, I think they look good, but really may be WAY overbuilt, and would be too heavy. I like that you did what the aftermarket struggles with, and followed the body rather than just a straight pipe, leaving it close in the center and gapped at the ends. i think for the factory mount you may end up with large levers on the body too, you may want some attachments that go from the bottom of the steps, and attach to the floor of the cab just outside the frame, and use a plate on the opposite side of the floor to bolt to. (sandwich the floor between the mount and backing plate)

I love my frame mounted White Knuckle sliders. Fell off a 3 ft ledge on to a rock with no damage at Rausch Creek doing Crawl Daddy trail. Which is a black trail.

 

[1GladEWAL]

Interesting point about leverage against the frame. I had chosen that mount based on what I'd read about expedition rigs and rock crawlers, however I can certainly visualize the effect. I can mitigate that effect a little by using the body to frame mounts which are about 2" outboard of the frame. These bolts are notoriously difficult though....
Rough calculations show about 75lb per side without mounting hardware. Has anyone weighed theirs?

 

[1GladEWAL]

I love my frame mounted White Knuckle sliders. Fell off a 3 ft ledge on to a rock with no damage at Rausch Creek doing Crawl Daddy trail. Which is a black trail.

No kidding! So, how are they mounted?

 

[Rusty PW]

No kidding! So, how are they mounted?

Frame mounted. 5 locations on each side. They are over 80 lbs each.

 

[1GladEWAL]

Those are just the type pics I'm looking for! That's a stout unit! I like the large contact patch on the vertical side of the mount, and I think the gussets are key. I wonder if the bolt heads on the bottom would get too beat up from dragging across things? Did you have to drill the frame to mount them?

 

[Rusty PW]

Those are just the type pics I'm looking for! That's a stout unit! I like the large contact patch on the vertical side of the mount, and I think the gussets are key. I wonder if the bolt heads on the bottom would get too beat up from dragging across things? Did you have to drill the frame to mount them?

Used the threaded holes in the bottom of the frame. On the sides. Had to drill 2 holes in the rear on the left and one on the right rear for for self taping bolts.

Used to have a Power Wagon. Most of the Power Wagon guys use the White Knuckle sliders. Seen them drop 5ft on the rocks with no damage. I had the factory rock rails and bent them up.

 

[1GladEWAL]

I appreciate the input everybody! I am going to copy the White Knuckle mount a little by using 5 points of contact and gusseted mounts.
I think I'll try to use a "U" shaped mount though, and bolt through.
I have noticed the frame width varies a bit, so in the end I may abandon that and use the "L" shaped mount.
Might be better to not re-invent the wheel...
I'm terrible at in process pics, as I get too wrapped up in the process to stop and take pics. If I do I'll post them. I'll be sure to post the finished sliders when they're done.

Sponsored