Some updates/questions on my driveshaft failure

[JeepOfTheseus]

As some of you saw in the other thread, I had a catastrophic failure with my single piece driveshaft...unfortunately while driving on the freeway. Thankfully no one was hurt, except it really did a number mentally. It also didn't do any major damage, but more on that after some pics:

The crazy part of this incident is...it appears to be a result of the driveshaft being too short and/or my rear suspension travel being too much for it. The spline came clean out of the slip yoke. As you can see in the following pics, everything is completely intact otherwise:

As far as damage goes, it banged up my muffler a bit:

But here's the bad news: it whacked the thick steel bracket for my gas skid plate, which happened to be mounted to the factory carrier bearing location. Before it sheered off the bolt, it dented that area a bit:

The crossmember seems fine otherwise, but I can no longer mount the carrier bracket to it (without it being way off axis). So my question for you folks is: can you think of any way to repair this, or am I basically SOL and stuck with getting a replacement one piece? I really wanted to go back to stock/2 piece design, but I also don't want to take anymore risks. I've already scheduled a visit to the shop, and will likely have to get a driveshaft built by a local guy. He said he uses Dana Spicer parts, so that is good. I'm hoping since they will have it front of them...this time around they can build one that fits and is balanced.

FWIW, Adam's Driveshafts refunded me the cost of the driveshaft and then some. Situation sucks all around, but I have to acknowledge they honored that.

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[rharr]

If you get to keep the busted shaft, take it to the drive line shop, they can cut off the old tube and clean up the tube ends where welded with a lathe. Then you can reuse most of the other parts. All the flex bits are the expensive bits, the tube is the cheapest. That will save you a few bucks.

 

[kevman65]

The broken bolt can be removed, drill it and use a screw extractor.

The tweaked cross brace can be brought back to close to where it was.

Since you were on the interstate, driveshaft had to be too short, unless you were airborne your rear can't droop far enough for it to slip out.

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

The broken bolt can be removed, drill it and use a screw extractor.

The tweaked cross brace can be brought back to close to where it was.

Since you were on the interstate, driveshaft had to be too short, unless you were airborne your rear can't droop far enough for it to slip out.

Yep, bolt was removed and nut can still be used. As for correcting…that’s what I’m hoping.

As for drooping, I didn’t even hit a bump. Only thing that caused it was I sped up to pass someone.

 

[Badweather]

Just curious but how much of a lift did you have?

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

Just curious but how much of a lift did you have?

AEV HD 3” coils paired with FOX 2.5 Performance Elite shocks (2-3)

 

[Badweather]

That’s not a crazy lift, why was your drive shaft so short, apologies if this was answered elsewhere

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

That’s not a crazy lift, why was your drive shaft so short, apologies if this was answered elsewhere

That's the head scratching question. I measured lip-to-lip as required when ordering. Out of curiosity, I just checked the length with the factory yokes/driveshaft on the ground and the measurement I provided was slightly longer than that.

And as best as I can tell, that spline was at least half-way engaged/inserted. I really don't get how that much of it slipped out.

 

[JTPatriot]

Just curious, and sorry if it was mentioned in the other thread. Do you have any angle up of the differential yoke? Should have 2 - 3 degrees of angle from the yoke to the driveshaft. So on acceleration as the rear differential torques down the yoke and driveshaft line up. Not saying if it did not it would slip apart, just setup info.

Really would like to know how this happened. I have been running an Adams one piece for over 3 years and no issues at all, even have a swirl mark from dragging over a rock and still spinning true.

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

Just curious, and sorry if it was mentioned in the other thread. Do you have any angle up of the differential yoke? Should have 2 - 3 degrees of angle from the yoke to the driveshaft. So on acceleration as the rear differential torques down the yoke and driveshaft line up. Not saying if it did not it would slip apart, just setup info.

Really would like to know how this happened. I have been running an Adams one piece for over 3 years and no issues at all, even have a swirl mark from dragging over a rock and still spinning true.

Yea, pinion angle was pointing a few degrees up...to get the yoke parallel with the driveshaft.

I had done some heavy acceleration from stops without any issues (no vibrations or groaning), and this happened while at a high, albeit constant, speed.

 

[Badweather]

That's the head scratching question. I measured lip-to-lip as required when ordering. Out of curiosity, I just checked the length with the factory yokes/driveshaft on the ground and the measurement I provided was slightly longer than that.

So the drive shaft is not OEM

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

So the drive shaft is not OEM

No, single piece 1350 from Adam’s.

 

[Badweather]

Time to talk with Adams and see if they stand behind their product, that should be your plan

 

[kevman65]

Time to talk with Adams and see if they stand behind their product, that should be your plan

FWIW, Adam's Driveshafts refunded me the cost of the driveshaft and then some. Situation sucks all around, but I have to acknowledge they honored that.

End of his initial post, Adams already made it right.

 

[TheSolarWizard]

I hate to see this
When you replace it (and any competent shop can repair that crossmember) you should run a carrier bearing spacer

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