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Suspension/Lift for 35's with emphasis for On-Road manners.

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bastage

bastage

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It's less the budget and more the getting rolling part. I'm thinking I may even end up with 37s in time so this stop along the way on 35s wouldn't wanna go full suspension setup just yet. I have garage clearance issues that I need to tip toe into.
Man I will tell you that I regret buying 35's sooooo much on mine. I have 600 miles on them & already finding that I should of gone bigger. Clearance wise it takes very little more to get the 37's in then it does 35's so I wish I had listened to others who said just go straight to 37's. As long as you have the gearing for it (rubicon or max tow so you have 4.10's stock).
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Man I will tell you that I regret buying 35's sooooo much on mine. I have 600 miles on them & already finding that I should of gone bigger. Clearance wise it takes very little more to get the 37's in then it does 35's so I wish I had listened to others who said just go straight to 37's. As long as you have the gearing for it (rubicon or max tow so you have 4.10's stock).
I have 3.73.

my biggest concern is garage clearance. I can only go 5 maybe 5.5 inches. Current is about 33" so 37" is +2 to tire. 3.5" to lift front is gonna be very very close.

I think front leveling kit (zero towing) and 35s is the way for me to start. I've had the thing a week now, plenty of time to go to 37 and do all that is involved.
 
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bastage

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I have 3.73.

my biggest concern is garage clearance. I can only go 5 maybe 5.5 inches. Current is about 33" so 37" is +2 to tire. 3.5" to lift front is gonna be very very close.

I think front leveling kit (zero towing) and 35s is the way for me to start. I've had the thing a week now, plenty of time to go to 37 and do all that is involved.
Leveling and 35's look good. Thats what I have currently. Very happy with what I did to begin with. Weeks ago I was sure I wouldnt want bigger lift or tires. Getting a taste of what these are capable of just changed that though.
 

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stock 4 door jl’s didn’t touch in the same place I did that. These things are just long. And I’d rather error on too much protection rather then not enough.
oh for certain. My concern is weight. With recovery gear and family I am already at 400lbs-500lbs under gvwr. I still have to add the bed and roof rack. Plus tent and supplies.

RockHard weighs 180-260lbs depending on aluminum or steel
Arctec AL weighs 116lbs

Odd how nothing protects the drive shaft (ie you slide down/off a rock and a pointy rock hits it where you were expecting to just pass over
 
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oh for certain. My concern is weight. With recovery gear and family I am already at 400lbs-500lbs under gvwr. I still have to add the bed and roof rack. Plus tent and supplies.

RockHard weighs 180-260lbs depending on aluminum or steel
Arctec AL weighs 116lbs

Odd how nothing protects the drive shaft (ie you slide down/off a rock and a pointy rock hits it where you were expecting to just pass over
Nothing can protect the drive shaft. You would be creating an artificial low point just to try. The driveshaft itself is honestly what I am least worried about. They are big & strong & easy to replace (though not cheap). I am going to look at some diff protection next & then call it good till I start breaking something. What I found was that I didnt have a problem with clearance or the axles or pumpkin, just the damn breakover being so bad.
 

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Man I will tell you that I regret buying 35's sooooo much on mine. I have 600 miles on them & already finding that I should of gone bigger. Clearance wise it takes very little more to get the 37's in then it does 35's so I wish I had listened to others who said just go straight to 37's. As long as you have the gearing for it (rubicon or max tow so you have 4.10's stock).
what does it take to get clearance? With no lift and moderate wheeling? I put 35s on mine with minor rubbing on the parts needing greater articulation, adding rubicon fender flares to eliminate even that. Wondering if 37s would work. Absolutely not getting a lift as I cant spring for one for a couple years
 
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what does it take to get clearance? With no lift and moderate wheeling? I put 35s on mine with minor rubbing on the parts needing greater articulation, adding rubicon fender flares to eliminate even that. Wondering if 37s would work. Absolutely not getting a lift as I cant spring for one for a couple years
Where are you rubbing at? I am just leveled & pushed to full articulation & no rubbing on my 35's. Did you remove the stupid fender to bumper skirt things. Thats the closest point & I removed mine all together. 37's are only another 1 inch over the 35's in each direction. My wheels are currently zero offset & my truck is a Max tow. Both of those things may come into play as well.
 

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Leveling and 35's look good. Thats what I have currently. Very happy with what I did to begin with. Weeks ago I was sure I wouldnt want bigger lift or tires. Getting a taste of what these are capable of just changed that though.
Pics?

What offset did you have to run, though you also have max tow which is wider than I am.
 

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Where are you rubbing at? I am just leveled & pushed to full articulation & no rubbing on my 35's. Did you remove the stupid fender to bumper skirt things. Thats the closest point & I removed mine all together. 37's are only another 1 inch over the 35's in each direction. My wheels are currently zero offset & my truck is a Max tow. Both of those things may come into play as well.
Max Tow, Rubicon steel bumper with wings off, OEM/factory alloy wheels. No spacers or leveling kit. I rubbed only a couple times, once backing up over a mount about 3 feet high while performing a recovery on a 4Runner, and again climbing up some rock steps. Like I said, minor and only in 2 or 3 instances. It just so happened that once my 35s came i I was able to get some Rubicon fenders and now I start to wonder. 37s are only 2lbs heavier than my 35s, which are only 7lbs heavier than stock rubicon tires with steel factory wheels (17lbs if alloy). So the strain on the Dana44s should not be a lot more than factory
 
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Pics?

What offset did you have to run, though you also have max tow which is wider than I am.
I have a couple of pics in my vehichle showcase https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/showcase/authors/bastage.29528/

I have 0 offset wheels, but in hindsite I would of probably gone with +30 offset just because I feel like these stick out too far. May not matter soon through as I am going to flat fenders as soon as they are delivered.

Max Tow, Rubicon steel bumper with wings off, OEM/factory alloy wheels. No spacers or leveling kit. I rubbed only a couple times, once backing up over a mount about 3 feet high while performing a recovery on a 4Runner, and again climbing up some rock steps. Like I said, minor and only in 2 or 3 instances. It just so happened that once my 35s came i I was able to get some Rubicon fenders and now I start to wonder. 37s are only 2lbs heavier than my 35s, which are only 7lbs heavier than stock rubicon tires with steel factory wheels (17lbs if alloy). So the strain on the Dana44s should not be a lot more than factory
Ok the OEM wheels are +44 offset which means that each of your wheels are 1 3/4" closer to the body then mine are. That would definitely be a damn good reason why you might get some rubbing where as I dont.
 

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I have a couple of pics in my vehichle showcase https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/showcase/authors/bastage.29528/

I have 0 offset wheels, but in hindsite I would of probably gone with +30 offset just because I feel like these stick out too far. May not matter soon through as I am going to flat fenders as soon as they are delivered.



Ok the OEM wheels are +44 offset which means that each of your wheels are 1 3/4" closer to the body then mine are. That would definitely be a damn good reason why you might get some rubbing where as I dont.
I don't rub on any part but the fender liner on top and only during the tire really being pushed up like when crawling over a 5" tall rock or backing onto a 3ft pile of soil. No rubbing on parts like control arms, if that is what you mean. See my "Another 35" tires on Sport" thread
 

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Check out the Rough Country 3.5". I too am an on roader much more than off roader and it rides just like the factory ride does. FYI, I had it purchased and installed for less than $1K. Unless you just want to spend money.:)

What kind of seat covers? they look great and match the Gobi

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I got the 2.5" ReadyLift SST lift kit put on mine. It gives 2.5" in front and 2" in the rear. Cost me $801 out the door installed including alignment. Running 315 70 17 BFG KO2's. Mines a Max Tow as well and it rides as good as it did stock. The Readylift is a complete kit. 100% happy with how it rides and the mpgs are still around 18 average. Mine also has 1.75" wheel spacers installed, here's two pictures one without the spacers and one with

Without
MVIMG_20200315_104711.jpg


With
00000IMG_00000_BURST20200418054301905_COVER.jpg
How level does this sit? (Whats the height of front and rear from ground to fender lip)
 

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How level does this sit? (Whats the height of front and rear from ground to fender lip)
I'll have to measure it and let you know. I can't remember right off the top of my head.
 

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How level does this sit? (Whats the height of front and rear from ground to fender lip)
41" in the rear and 40.25" in the front. I think it was at 40.75 in the front before I added the bumper and winch if I can remember correctly, so the steel bumper and winch dropped the front a Half inch or so.

Currently how it's sitting with bumpers and winch

00000IMG_00000_BURST20200704070037778_COVER.jpg
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