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Swapping LCA as a novice

RedWire75

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I was reading up on the extended LCA for the Mopar 2” lift for my otherwise stock Mojave and it seems it may address most of my highway manners issues.

My question is, as someone who has done very little wrenching, is this something I might be capable of doing? I’m good with most minor things (oil change, tire rotation, swapping intakes, etc). I’ll have to pick up additional tools to add a breaker bar and torque wrench over 150 ft/lbs but that’s fine. I know it needs to be torqued to spec on ramps or the ground as well.

I just don’t want to get in way over my head and mess up something I can’t fix. Also, not sure where I could get to install parts I’d be supplying otherwise.
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ChrisNLA

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I don't see any reason you can't handle it. Not much trouble to get into on that project.

Last set of lower control arms I did, I did them one at a time with the truck sitting flat on the ground under its own weight. Took one out, used a ratchet strap to pull the axle if needed, put new one in - repeat on other side.

You can also pull the front tires off and do it on jack stands with the front axle fully drooped.
 

bleda2002

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I don't see any reason you can't handle it. Not much trouble to get into on that project.

Last set of lower control arms I did, I did them one at a time with the truck sitting flat on the ground under its own weight. Took one out, used a ratchet strap to pull the axle if needed, put new one in - repeat on other side.

You can also pull the front tires off and do it on jack stands with the front axle fully drooped.
This, on the ground, one at a time is the safest and easiest way to go imo. Get a 250 ft/lb torque wrench as the lowers are 190 ft/lbs I believe.
 

bd100

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Before you order parts, just get the torque wrench and sockets, set the torque wrench to 190 ft-lb, climb under there, and see if you can tighten the bolt at the axle enough to make it click. It can be done, but it isn't necessarily easy. Also get a thick and stubby punch to help line things up for reassembly. And be sure the vehicle is level front to back so the vehicle isn't fighting the line up process.

And if you want to install bolt-on lower control arm skids now's the time. But I found the lower control arm skid doesn't tighten up well because it isn't built to exact dimensions so the bolt's pressure is not applied evenly so it squeaks. A design issue.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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This, on the ground, one at a time is the safest and easiest way to go imo. Get a 250 ft/lb torque wrench as the lowers are 190 ft/lbs I believe.
Lowers are torque plus degrees and it works out to over 190.

I also advise having a ratchet strap handy to pull things into alignment if necessary.

set the torque wrench to 190 ft-lb
That 190 is low.

These are the real specs and it ends up tighter than 190.
I tested - I did it both ways and found it is actually over 200 when done by the book.
I torqued to 103, marked, then up to 190 and measured the degrees, then took it to 145 and it was tighter than 190.

Jeep Gladiator Swapping LCA as a novice 1693339275612


I've done 'em three times - to put the longer ones on my 2020, then again to put the stock back in, then again to put the longer ones under my 2022.
 

bleda2002

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Lowers are torque plus degrees and it works out to over 190.

I also advise having a ratchet strap handy to pull things into alignment if necessary.


That 190 is low.

These are the real specs and it ends up tighter than 190.
I tested - I did it both ways and found it is actually over 200 when done by the book.
I torqued to 103, marked, then up to 190 and measured the degrees, then took it to 145 and it was tighter than 190.

1693339275612.png


I've done 'em three times - to put the longer ones on my 2020, then again to put the stock back in, then again to put the longer ones under my 2022.
The 190 comes from the Mopar lift instructions. Factory is torque + angle, but Mopar says 190 is enough if you don't have torque + degrees.

Jeep Gladiator Swapping LCA as a novice Screenshot_20230829-161123
 

ShadowsPapa

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The 190 comes from the Mopar lift instructions. Factory is torque + angle, but Mopar says 190 is enough if you don't have torque + degrees.

Screenshot_20230829-161123.png
Yeah, I knew it was from a lift kit - but seems to me that with the problem with loose parts, and the fact that the factory sends them out tighter, and if you have a shop work on your Jeep, if they follow the tech documents, they'll tighten tighter than the lift kit.
I'm suspecting the lift kit 190 is a "that will get by" spec.
I don't know why they didn't include the torque plus angle with the lift kit.
But one idea that comes to mind after seeing their other instructions - for things like the the trailer brake controller, tells me they do a lot of copy and paste and I'd bet that 190 dates back a few years for the JLU.

I'm sticking with what the techs in the shops would use - the listed torque plus degrees. I know it's correct and it's tighter.
Look at the age of that lift kit sheet - April 2019? Bet the jt specs are actually higher.
 

bleda2002

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Yeah, I knew it was from a lift kit - but seems to me that with the problem with loose parts, and the fact that the factory sends them out tighter, and if you have a shop work on your Jeep, if they follow the tech documents, they'll tighten tighter than the lift kit.
I'm suspecting the lift kit 190 is a "that will get by" spec.
I don't know why they didn't include the torque plus angle with the lift kit.
But one idea that comes to mind after seeing their other instructions - for things like the the trailer brake controller, tells me they do a lot of copy and paste and I'd bet that 190 dates back a few years for the JLU.

I'm sticking with what the techs in the shops would use - the listed torque plus degrees. I know it's correct and it's tighter.
Look at the age of that lift kit sheet - April 2019? Bet the jt specs are actually higher.
That's the specific JT specs, the jlu are actually lower in the back by a lot. I pulled it from the Mopar PDF for the JT specific lift kit.

I'm not saying torque plus angle isn't more precise, but 20k miles later I've not had a control arm move at 190 ftlbs either.
 

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ChrisNLA

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Don't do this.
From my understanding the bushings are to be set at ride height.
(don't tighten them before setting the truck down under its own weight).

Didn't include that disclaimer. Post nearby mine did, though.
 

Idlethunder

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I was reading up on the extended LCA for the Mopar 2” lift for my otherwise stock Mojave and it seems it may address most of my highway manners issues.

My question is, as someone who has done very little wrenching, is this something I might be capable of doing? I’m good with most minor things (oil change, tire rotation, swapping intakes, etc). I’ll have to pick up additional tools to add a breaker bar and torque wrench over 150 ft/lbs but that’s fine. I know it needs to be torqued to spec on ramps or the ground as well.

I just don’t want to get in way over my head and mess up something I can’t fix. Also, not sure where I could get to install parts I’d be supplying otherwise.
Adding the 1/4" longer LCAs was one of the very first things I did to my Rubicon. I read all the threads I could find on here and watched several videos while waiting for my 250 ft/lb torque wrench to come in. I installed them on a Saturday morning and probably spent 3 hours changing them out because I went so slowly. I used both a ratchet strap to get everything lined up correctly and it worked very well. The only thing I had trouble with was getting the bolts torqued down to 190 but at that time I did not have ramps. With ramps is it so much easier.
 

Uparms

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Keep a ratchet strap handy. Tires facing forward. On the ground. If you are off by 1/4- 1/2, 3/4 even an inch to line up a bolt, you can adjust the mis-aligned holes by using your foot to move the tire on the side you are working on( frontward or back word) to line up the holes. If you are really off, get the ratchet strap hooked up. Even in gear or parked! This is basic, easy and fun. Safety first.
 

bd100

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I can report that even a small slope makes it much harder to line things up. A few 2x6 or whatever to level the vehicle can make all the difference.
 
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RedWire75

RedWire75

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Well, everybody reassured me I could do it so I did the thing. Already had the arms here and was on the fence but it’s done!

Ran out and got the tools I needed once I was off work and got into it. Probably should have picked up some ramps for more space to work because holy hell 190 ft/lbs took every ounce of strength I had. One bolt is at 180+ (set the wrench at 180 to see how close I was and got the click, reset at 190 and got a little more but never quite got there). I’ll likely go back around and check all 4 once I get ramps but for now I think 180+/gutentight on that one problem child will have to do.

Didn’t end up needing the ratchet straps. Bolt lined up on both sides with no problem. I’m not sure I understand why and I’m not sure I care.

Test drive after feels like it is tracking much better. Possibly placebo but if I feel better about it I’m happy!

Thanks all!
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