Teraflex 1.5" to Mopar 2" or Both in unison ?

['22JTRD]

Looking for input from anyone who has gone from running a Teraflex 1.5" Leveling Kit to the Mopar 2" Lift Kit.

Did you leave the TF 1.5 and add the M 2 or did you remove the TF 1.5 when changing to the M 2 ?

It seems to me the TF 1.5 spacer leveling kit could still be able to work with the M 2.

I am unsure of the final result and any additional issues that may arise as a result of this Witch's Brew, I.E brake lines being too short or a Carolina Squat.

Did the M 2 take care of the oem rake ?

Hopefully a response to this query will keep me from having to experiment to find the answers myself and save a little time and work.

I am currently running the TF 1.5 LK & TF 2" front shock bottom mount extension and Nitto TG 35x12.5x17.

This research is in planning for future upsize to 37x12.5x17 and the needed articulation clearance.

Thanks for any and all advice...

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[JTGuy]

I have the Mopar 2 inch lift only. I just installed BFG KO2 37s and have no rubbing at full flex and wheels turned. I have Method wheels with 0 offset. I am happy.

 

['22JTRD]

I have the Mopar 2 inch lift only.

Does the Mopar give a level stance or is it higher in the rear ?

I am trying to determine if I should take off my Teraflex 1.5" leveling kit or not.

 

[ezekio3160]

Does the Mopar give a level stance or is it higher in the rear ?

I am trying to determine if I should take off my Teraflex 1.5" leveling kit or not.

Don’t leave the 1.5 spacers as you reduce your travel on your front suspension for your 2in mopar.

 

[Zachanadandy]

If you keep the spacers you'll need at a minimum adjustable control arms up front. You'll also want to keep the shock extensions with the new shocks. It's more lift than you'll need and will likely be enough that you'll want to do something to the steering. On our JLUR we run the yeti flipped drag link on 3.5" of lift to get the steering geometry right and we also run front control arm drop brackets. If you want that much lift then it's doable but will require additional parts. With the Mopar longer LCAs you could probably just add drop brackets and get the caster in good shape. At that height you'll need to loosen up the brake line brackets and FAD/front locker wiring to get some additional length. The front drive shaft will be at its limit and may need upgraded as well. We dealt with all of those issues as we needed the tire clearance...for 39s.

 

['22JTRD]

If you keep the spacers you'll need at a minimum adjustable control arms up front. You'll also want to keep the shock extensions with the new shocks. It's more lift than you'll need and will likely be enough that you'll want to do something to the steering. On our JLUR we run the yeti flipped drag link on 3.5" of lift to get the steering geometry right and we also run front control arm drop brackets. If you want that much lift then it's doable but will require additional parts. With the Mopar longer LCAs you could probably just add drop brackets and get the caster in good shape. At that height you'll need to loosen up the brake line brackets and FAD/front locker wiring to get some additional length. The front drive shaft will be at its limit and may need upgraded as well. We dealt with all of those issues as we needed the tire clearance...for 39s.

Thanks for the info
I was already sure the Mopar 2" would give enough clearance for 37x12.5x17 Nittos since I am running the 35s now and won't be going over a 37.

I ran an '85 4Runner on true 36s for 20 years and found they could get me anywhere I needed to go

Not sure if the Mopar 2" will leave a noticeable rake or run close to level

Had planned on leaving the TF 2" shock extensions if I kept the TF pucks to keep the shock from over extending

Could also just use the 1" or 1/2" puck to get close to a level stance

 

[Hootbro]

I would say forget the stacking spacer on a lift kit idea.

I was in the same boat on my 2020 Gladiator Rubicon in that I had to "Roll my Own" and piece together and build my own lift kit to keep the truck either level or with minimal rake once I factored in adding a bump and winch.

 

[Silverator]

My local 4x4 shop suggested the TeraFlex spacer for balancing out the stock rubicon rake when doing a Mopar 2" lift. I haven't done it yet, but will definitely consider it when I get there.

 

['22JTRD]

My local 4x4 shop suggested the TeraFlex spacer for balancing out the stock rubicon rake when doing a Mopar 2" lift. I haven't done it yet, but will definitely consider it when I get there.

Thanks, probably will go with the Mopar and take out just the 1/2" puck.

Leaving the Teraflex 1" puck and the Teraflex 2" lower shock mount extension so the shock won't over extend at droop.

That will most likely give back a little rake over what I have now but I am about to add a little more weight to the rear so hopefully it should balance out

Have a Truck Covers USA American Roll Cover ordered and will be adding a platform over it on Rails for moving the spare from underneath to improve departure angle when we head out West on trips.

 

[Vivec]

If you keep the spacers you'll need at a minimum adjustable control arms up front. You'll also want to keep the shock extensions with the new shocks. It's more lift than you'll need and will likely be enough that you'll want to do something to the steering. On our JLUR we run the yeti flipped drag link on 3.5" of lift to get the steering geometry right and we also run front control arm drop brackets. If you want that much lift then it's doable but will require additional parts. With the Mopar longer LCAs you could probably just add drop brackets and get the caster in good shape. At that height you'll need to loosen up the brake line brackets and FAD/front locker wiring to get some additional length. The front drive shaft will be at its limit and may need upgraded as well. We dealt with all of those issues as we needed the tire clearance...for 39s.

I plan on adding the 2” Mopar lift and 1.5” teraflex leveling kit to reduce the rake. Max wheels will be 35”. Do I really need to do all this additional work?

 

[Zachanadandy]

I plan on adding the 2” Mopar lift and 1.5” teraflex leveling kit to reduce the rake. Max wheels will be 35”. Do I really need to do all this additional work?

You can drive it with low caster and you won't die so one could argue you don't NEED to do anything else. Of course I don't want a Jeep that wanders or rides rough so I will always suggest doing more than the bare minimum. The Mopar 2" lift usually adds about 3" in reality so you're talking 4.5" of lift which is pretty substantial. Personally I wouldn't run that much lift without geometry correction brackets to flatten it the front and and a track bar to center the front axle. In the rear I like the ride and handling of the triangulated 4 link too much to not run it on my Jeep going forward but it's not necessary.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

I plan on adding the 2” Mopar lift and 1.5” teraflex leveling kit to reduce the rake. Max wheels will be 35”. Do I really need to do all this additional work?

Maybe and maybe more.

Sway bar links weren’t mentioned. The links included with the Mopar lift aren’t adjustable and they’re intended for the Mopar lift height. They’ll work ok with a spacer added on, but they won’t be ideal.

I think you’d be better off with a different base than the Mopar 2” lift kit. Something with adjustable links, rake removed/reduced with the right length springs, and proper length shocks without extension brackets.

 

[SamJ3]

I initially installed the Teraflex 1.5" leveler on my Gladiator Sport along with 35" tires. Subsequently, I added a Teraflex sway disconnect.

Recently I installed the Mopar 2" lift, and opted to remove the leveller pucks. My plan was to see how the vehicle sat after the lift, and if necessary go back and add the pucks, perhaps just adding the 1/2" puck.

Upon installing the lift (and removing the pucks) I measured the net increase in rise. The front end increased 2.5" over the leveller enhanced height. The rear end increased 3.125". I went from level to a slight rake by removing the leveller and installing the lift. This works perfect for me, as there is no squat when loaded in the rear.

I recommend against using both the Teraflex 1.5" leveller and the Mopar 2" lift kit. If you really want to level things out (and rarely load up the back), you could consider using just the 1/2" puck from the kit.

Also, when installing the front portion of the lift, I removed the Teraflex bump stops from the leveller kit and installed the bump stops from the Mopar kit. Though both stops are of similar dimensions, I felt the Mopar stops were more substantial. However, they were also more difficult to install and get torqued up to spec.

As for the sway bar links, I retained the Teraflex disconnectable links - these fit perfectly at the lifted ride height.

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