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Those Who Swapped to Rubicon Shocks/Springs

MPMB

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Yeah I reached out originally hoping that the IFPs would be valved to provide better ride control or something. Here's what they had to say about it:

<snip>

"Our valving is much different!" didn't give me the warm and fuzzies about purchasing the IPFs. I reached out to Accutune next to see what they had to say about the valving, and they contradicted the FOX rep. I get that they have an incentive to sell the expensive shocks, but also they seem like a company that shoots straight.

<snip>

Those two data points push me toward the Ranchos since I seem to be particular about my ride, while also not wanting to drop $4k in shocks.
I haven't received a response, so I'm thinking I got black-holed/ignored.

For people that don't know how "modern" shocks work (I'll admit, my own info might be out of date), the shock rod has a piston mounted on the end that moves up and down inside the shock body, slowed by the hydraulic pressure of oil moving through holes in the piston. Holes are different sized to improve low speed travel; bigger the holes, the easier/softer low speed control is.

Bigger holes are in the pistons, but they are covered by a shim stack (valving), which are super thin washers, basically, that are designed to flex (open the holes) to let the fluid out during high speed travel. The shims are various diameters, which affect the strength of flex. This is what gives the shock more compression or rebound based on how fast it travels.

So good shocks should have two static settings - low and high speed. Low speed controlled by the bleed holes, high speed controlled by the shim stack.

Remote reservoirs are beneficial for two reasons (at least) - they add more fluid to the system to help keep shocks cooler, and it allows adjustability for C/R that are independent.

IIRC, to make a shock "adjustable," the bleed hole in the shock shaft has a sleeve or needle or device that allows that hole to be increased or decreased in size, allowing more or less fluid to pass (this is how at least one brand operated). If this adjuster is only on the shaft, this affects both compression and rebound. Having a remote reservoir allows separate compression and rebound adjustments.

Fine-tuning adjustments can be done by the amount you pressurize the shock, oil selected, etc.

Pro Racing Shocks had a small, clear plastic bag that contained nitrogen. A little bit longer than an Arby's Horsey Sauce packet, but very similar. That is what they called a "gas charged" shock back in the day.
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steveorama

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Update: So I've been driving around for about a month now. It's funny, some days I feel like I must have gotten used to it and it doesn't feel as rough and I'm completely Ok with the ride. Then there are others like today, where it still feels like the rear "bucks" over bumps. I'm debating on swapping back out to the stock rear springs to see what kind of difference that will make or maybe I should toss a couple bags of play sand in the bed and see what that does.
 

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Update: So I've been driving around for about a month now. It's funny, some days I feel like I must have gotten used to it and it doesn't feel as rough and I'm completely Ok with the ride. Then there are others like today, where it still feels like the rear "bucks" over bumps. I'm debating on swapping back out to the stock rear springs to see what kind of difference that will make or maybe I should toss a couple bags of play sand in the bed and see what that does.

You know that's pretty funny. After my swap there are days I think it's perfect. Others I think WTF did I do. LOL
 
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steveorama

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You know that's pretty funny. After my swap there are days I think it's perfect. Others I think WTF did I do. LOL
Same, and ironically I drive the same roads basically every day.
 

arneb04

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I’m just catching up on this one. I have a willys. It is built from the sport package but supposedly has the rubicon suspension or what they call “HD” suspension, trakloc diff, tow pkg (not max tow)and 32” mud terrains etc. From what I see compared to sports and overlands it has much less rake, and sits at least an inch higher, though that could be tire height too I don’t know. In test driving it compared to a sport or overland it is much more truck-y and harsh at the rear and it is fairly stiff in tight corners but I will get some pull and lift in the front as it rolls. The rubicon had less roll to me, but it could be because it comes with wider tires too I’m not sure.
 

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I’m just catching up on this one. I have a willys. It is built from the sport package but supposedly has the rubicon suspension or what they call “HD” suspension, trakloc diff, tow pkg (not max tow)and 32” mud terrains etc. From what I see compared to sports and overlands it has much less rake, and sits at least an inch higher, though that could be tire height too I don’t know. In test driving it compared to a sport or overland it is much more truck-y and harsh at the rear and it is fairly stiff in tight corners but I will get some pull and lift in the front as it rolls. The rubicon had less roll to me, but it could be because it comes with wider tires too I’m not sure.
From what I've seen the Willys have the same springs as the Overland and Sport, but JLR shocks(which doesn't add height). The Overland and Willys also both have the same equivalent tire size too. 255/70R18 (32.1"x10") vs 255/75R17 (32.1"x10").
 

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Update: So I've been driving around for about a month now. It's funny, some days I feel like I must have gotten used to it and it doesn't feel as rough and I'm completely Ok with the ride. Then there are others like today, where it still feels like the rear "bucks" over bumps. I'm debating on swapping back out to the stock rear springs to see what kind of difference that will make or maybe I should toss a couple bags of play sand in the bed and see what that does.
I have max tow springs in the rear - with Rubicon shocks back there, and today I paid close attention - when going over bumps WHEN and where do I feel it......... The front end handled them fine - that's where I have the Rubicon springs and shocks (and some extra weight with the bumper and winch) but the rear - sharp bump and yeah, "bucks" is sort of how I could describe it, too.

I had thought about putting a couple of bags of sand in the back, too!
The front is good over bumps, handles them well, the back bucks and jumps off the road and loses traction - a good washboard road would make the thing fishy.

I’m just catching up on this one. I have a willys. It is built from the sport package but supposedly has the rubicon suspension or what they call “HD” suspension, trakloc diff,
Mine says "normal duty plus suspension" - not sure how Rubicon would be "heavy duty". Spring rate - yeah, but they are also heavier vehicles generally speaking.
 

ajstx09

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Newbie question, my JT is my first truck/Jeep.
It’s a Texas Trail Ecodiesel. Can I put a take off non diesel rubi suspension on my JT?? From what I’m finding the springs would be an issue??
 
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steveorama

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I have max tow springs in the rear - with Rubicon shocks back there, and today I paid close attention - when going over bumps WHEN and where do I feel it......... The front end handled them fine - that's where I have the Rubicon springs and shocks (and some extra weight with the bumper and winch) but the rear - sharp bump and yeah, "bucks" is sort of how I could describe it, too.

I had thought about putting a couple of bags of sand in the back, too!
The front is good over bumps, handles them well, the back bucks and jumps off the road and loses traction - a good washboard road would make the thing fishy.
This is similar to what I experience with my setup as well, although all four corners are Rubi take offs. This has me wondering if it's really more the shocks than the springs then. I know the Rubi shocks are setup to be firmer than the Overland, but without any weight in the rear I wonder if they stop the spring oscillation sooner. Thus creating the bucking sensation. Shocks are easier to swap so I may try that first just out of curiosity. The downside if it works, is the cosmetic difference of the shiny silver Fox shocks vs the all black OEM ones.

Newbie question, my JT is my first truck/Jeep.
It’s a Texas Trail Ecodiesel. Can I put a take off non diesel rubi suspension on my JT?? From what I’m finding the springs would be an issue??
You absolutely can, but be aware the spring rates are different between the diesel and the gas. Your stock setup now, might be similar to that of a Rubi gas setup. So no real difference. Try and find a set from a diesel JTR and you would then see an apples to apples comparison to those of us with gas set ups running gas Rubi takeoffs. The shocks are no different though if you just wanted to swap those.
 

ajstx09

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This is similar to what I experience with my setup as well, although all four corners are Rubi take offs. This has me wondering if it's really more the shocks than the springs then. I know the Rubi shocks are setup to be firmer than the Overland, but without any weight in the rear I wonder if they stop the spring oscillation sooner. Thus creating the bucking sensation. Shocks are easier to swap so I may try that first just out of curiosity. The downside if it works, is the cosmetic difference of the shiny silver Fox shocks vs the all black OEM ones.


You absolutely can, but be aware the spring rates are different between the diesel and the gas. Your stock setup now, might be similar to that of a Rubi gas setup. So no real difference. Try and find a set from a diesel JTR and you would then see an apples to apples comparison to those of us with gas set ups running gas Rubi takeoffs. The shocks are no different though if you just wanted to swap those.
Awesome thanks for the help!!
 

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I'm Glad I saw this. I have a set of Rubi springs and shocks sitting in the garage (I have been procrastinating terribly) and was wondering how the ride would change. I'm not sure what springs numbers I have but the one question I have is what spring number goes on the driver side and what number goes to the passenger side. I might try installing them this weekend if I get time to do so on my Sport S.
 
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I'm Glad I saw this. I have a set of Rubi springs and shocks sitting in the garage (I have been procrastinating terribly) and was wondering how the ride would change. I'm not sure what springs numbers I have but the one question I have is what spring number goes on the driver side and what number goes to the passenger side. I might try installing them this weekend if I get time to do so on my Sport S.
The rule of thumb is the higher numerical spring goes on the passenger side for front and rear.
 

arneb04

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I have max tow springs in the rear - with Rubicon shocks back there, and today I paid close attention - when going over bumps WHEN and where do I feel it......... The front end handled them fine - that's where I have the Rubicon springs and shocks (and some extra weight with the bumper and winch) but the rear - sharp bump and yeah, "bucks" is sort of how I could describe it, too.

I had thought about putting a couple of bags of sand in the back, too!
The front is good over bumps, handles them well, the back bucks and jumps off the road and loses traction - a good washboard road would make the thing fishy.



Mine says "normal duty plus suspension" - not sure how Rubicon would be "heavy duty". Spring rate - yeah, but they are also heavier vehicles generally speaking.
Well I could post a picture of my window sticker, but the 24w package includes “HD” shocks and in the spec and marketing materials they say it comes with “rock rails and suspension straight from the rubicon”. So I don’t know what they consider rubicon suspension vs “HD” and who knows which material is right. I know how marketing goes. But it’s a stiffer ride in my estimation from driving the sport or overland and I know it doesn’t have nearly as much rake.
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