To Max Tow, or not? Looking for advice

[Mister Lamb]

Can you please elaborate?

The Max Tow option makes the Jeep an actual usable truck. From payload to towing, it's more comparable to a full-sized truck than 3.73 which just feels like a Wrangler with a bed. It's a more complete vehicle

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[Blade1668]

I've not towed w6 a regular Sport or Rubicon just Max-Tow of mine. I did test drive Sport, Sport S and Rubicons before my purchase. Most had been lifted and tires by dealership's before my test drives most of them was "dogs" due to axle ratio and oversized tires. The 4:10 of Max-Tow and Rubicon was better, but if going with more than 35/37 I think a regear is necessary on a 3.6. I'm out of my league on oil burners.

 

[Tommyd]

I'm looking to buy a used Gladiator and could use some advice and insight, particularly as it relates to Max Tow.

Usage: I'm not a hard-core wheeler, but I do want to be able to get up moderate to "lite" difficult trails. Plan to tow primarily a teardrop (~3-4K lbs) and occasionally flat tow my CJ-7 (~5K lbs).

I started off thinking Rubicon, but the price difference between a Rubi and Sport got me thinking (always dangerous). Don't think I need lockers, and if I decide down the road that I do, I can add them and still be ahead cost-wise. I like the height of the Rubi, but I can buy takeoff suspension and tires for pretty low price. So the only thing I still think I want from the Rubi is the 4.10s and beefier axles. So Max Tow, right?

I've found some used Sports with the Max Tow, but thus far they all have some compromises (mileage, options, colors, etc.) This has me second guessing whether I really "need" the max tow, or whether I'll by happy with any Sport with the standard tow package.

So, this is where I need some knowledge poured on me. Given my use case, will I really notice the difference between 3.73s and 4.10s and/or the beefier/wider axles? Anything else important I'm overlooking?

They all have the same axles just 1.5 inches wider on the rubis and max. They are not “beefier” . common misconception

 

[CerOf]

They all have the same axles just 1.5 inches wider on the rubis and max. They are not “beefier” . common misconception

Incorrect. My Rubi’s axles are beefier.
My knuckles are actual steel. (Diesel Rubi)

Basic sport and I think gasser Rubi’s are aluminum knuckles.

Mojave and max tow might also get the steel knuckles, but not 100% sure

 

[Blade1668]

AL. Hubs on my Max-Tow, the Mojave got them from day one from what I've heard and read.

 

[Tommyd]

Incorrect. My Rubi’s axles are beefier.
My knuckles are actual steel. (Diesel Rubi)

Basic sport and I think gasser Rubi’s are aluminum knuckles.

Mojave and max tow might also get the steel knuckles, but not 100% sure

True! Forgot about that! Wonder if the added weight of the motor makes them equal though? Seems like it could. I wouldn’t say your axles are beefier though you just have stronger knuckles. Everything else is same. Same wall thickness same splines.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Rubi or not you are goin to want a lift. I'd say go for the max toe. Also, someone can correct me if I'm wrong but the max tow/rubi axles arnt any beefier, they're just slightly wider tracking than other trims.

Wider - that's it.

>> Incorrect. My Rubi’s axles are beefier.<< Well, not really, the knuckles are, though.

The only differences are KNUCKLES for diesels - but the axles for all gassers will be the same.

So, technically, the axles are the same, the knuckles are different (on diesel, etc.)

 

[gdselzer]

That's many votes for the Max Tow. Anyone care to take the other side of the argument?

 

[mtudb24]

I went with max tow. Had a JKUR and it was great. I'm not a hard core wheeler and the amount of times I engaged the front Diff and swaybar disconnect were minimal. Sport S with Max tow has the wide track dana 44's. Anti spin rear dif (yes, not a locker, but a very good limited slip dif), 4:10 gears, all the extra cooling needed. I tow 2 different boats and the money I saved, I could probably install a front locker. I added things that were more important to me like a light bar, KC lights, tonneau conver (that works with the light bar), Rancho front an rear diff glide plates and a Mopar lift with 35's., and a trailer hitch skid plate

I know the trails in my area and the ones I am willing to travel to don't require all the goodies that a Rubicon has. No doubt will a similarly equipped Rubi will out-wheel me in certain instances, but my goal is not to goto those places. I like my mild offroad parks and the fact that I can tow my boat arounds with no issue and the money I saved during initial purchase pays for other little upgrades

 

[CerOf]

Splitting hairs on fhe “not really” .
Most lump the term “axle” to be the whole assembly.
where does one draw the line on saying an axle is beefier/stronger? Include the various installed “pieces/parts” or separate it out to individual components?

Limiting it to spline count? Pinion/ring gear size/thickness, axle tube strength/thickness, fully welded or rosettes, axle shafts and the composition, size, do they neck down, knuckles/outer c’s?
ujoint vs rcv, ujoint size, will they spit the caps

Something other than the diesel has the cast knuckles. I’m pretty sure it is Mojave. I thought max tow got them , too.

Personally, I’d go Rubicon. But I use the lockers and use the 4:1.

If I had the skill/tools to install my own lockers and swap in a 4:1t-case and get all the electronics to work where necessary, I’d save a buck and go sport with the best options I could. (I like the premium stereo and 8.x nav unit.)

But, indint have the tools and once you add it all up with labor and downtime, it would cost me more to try and make a sport have lockers and what not.


Okay, oxy and ambien kicking in. Y’all have a good night.

 

[glassjawkid32]

So that's two votes for lifting it, sooner or later. You very well may be right, but for arguments sake, let's assume that 33" tires will always get me where I want to go. In that case, what difference will I notice between Max tow and regular tow package?

Max tow with 35s and 2.5 spacer up front 3/4 in the rear was still dragging on moderate trails. It will get you there most likely but with lots of battle scars. I'm now on an icon 2.5 and can't wait to get back on a trail.

 

[Kevin_D]

My towing is limited to a small boat: total load about 1,000 lbs. I have the standard tow package.

When I got mine, the differences between Max Tow & standard tow were the wider axles, different axle ratio, stiffer suspension, & LSD. The regular tow package & Technology Package covered the larger alternator and HD Cooling.
I had no plans for overly-wide or insanely taller tires, so there was no interest in wider axles.
My primary use is traveling for work, which has me driving all over North America, and driving the equivalent of Forest Service roads, so the 3.73 axles were desired to maximize economy.
And I didn't need the stiffer suspension: I prefer the (slightly) softer ride.
The JT has what's called BLD: Brake Lock Differential. It's part of the Traction Control system, and it does a pretty good job of limiting wheel spin.

I did consider the Max Tow package, but for me it was a waste of money.

Besides, I have a full-sized truck with 12K tow & 3500 lb. load rating if I need it.

Kevin

 

[KWin]

the progressive springs in the max tow will help fix the squat while towing a trailer. I love my max tow, I think there is a reason everyone who has one mentions it to the point its almost a meme

 

[XJADDICTION]

Stiffer ride when empty is a good point that I'll need to consider.

Anyone driven both the 3.73 and 4.10 while offroad or towing? Significant/noticeable difference?

It doesn’t have a stiffer ride, it drives very well. 4:10 gears and wider axles are a huge plus. The MT tows very well up to 7000+ pounds with the 8 speed auto. Yes you will se decreased MPG but that is expected. I ran 37” BFG ATs no spacers with no rub on the road 33’s no problem, even 35s if you remove front bumper air dam thing.
I have almost 80,000 miles in mine no issues.

 

[sarguy1941]

I got the max tow also. I planned to tow. In the end I only have a 1500# trailer but do use it to tower my Kubota on a car trailer every now and then also. I did do some upgrades. First thing was a Rubi take off of shocks and springs. Was definitely not happy with the springs and went back to the Max Tow springs. The shocks are still the Fox shocks from the Rubi and I like them alot. I also installed Rubi take off tires and rims. Hated the Falkins. Just a few weeks ago swapped those out for 5 BFG AT 265/70-17 and its night and day ride. Wife even commented on how much better it rode and drives. I had 40K on the Falkins so I didn't feel bad changing them. Added my own brake controller and other odds and ends and love the truck. Its seem some mild off road (we still have a JK for serious stuff) and will be leaving on a 6000 mile vacation with the CTC tomorrow.

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