Using Gladiator As A Toad?

[Rowdiebryan]

Yours has the 460? Mine has the Triton V10, I thought all the E350/E450 RV chassis did.

Anyway, I'm using the Roadmaster Falcon II tow bar but it doesn't hook up the way it does to our Fiat 500 - the earlier toad. We still have it and we installed a baseplate on it. Haven't towed it since we got the Gladiator. On the Gladiator it's attached to Maximus tow loops instead of a baseplate. They offer an optional cross bar thingie so I got it too. The one thing I use to help with the tow is rear air bags on the RV. Not for weight but for stopping side to side body movement over driveways and speed bumps. But on ordinary highway driving, no sway. I don't find the weight the Gladiator an issue at all so far. In May we are heading to Yellowstone among other places. A 6-7 week trip. That will test it.

Yes, I think mine is 460 it’s a 7.3 liter. I don’t think the V10 is in production anymore. Air bags are being installed this month.

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[Dan in Pasadena]

Just found this online. I was totally unaware and I usually follow car/truck developments pretty closely. Must have been asleep at the wheel!

"Why did Ford stop making the V10?

Ford put an end to the production of the Triton V10 in 2011 for their trucks and SUVs. The 6.8L V10 did continue to be used in the E-series vans up until 2019.Jun 21, 2021"

My RV is a 2017 purchased in early 2018.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Towed my 2020 JTR a bit over 1000 miles in the last week. Not a single problem with either the Jeep, the RV nor the tow. Man, the interstates are pot holed to hell!

Even pulled it over the "Grapevine" here in SoCal, a known tough pull and still manage to stay between 55 - 65 mph without any overheating. The (crappy) factory gauge normally reads about a needle-width under mid point and during this pull it only ever got to the mid point and no higher.

PS: Oh, I forgot. There was ONE issue. The lower bolt on both Maximus Tow Loops vibrated loose twice. I had two major stops on the trip and at the 2nd I dropped into an Autozone and got some thread locker, re-tightented them and they did not come loose again. Those damn pot holes! For whatever reason the top bolts never got loose.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

More on the above comments:

Over 15 days I just towed it from SoCal to Laughlin, NV, Gallup, NM, Taos, Santa Fe, then Sedona, AZ through Phoenix to Blythe, CA and home.

Potholes were even WORSE! The lower bolts again came slightly loose. But because I put red thread locker on them before they didn't become more loose but I also couldn't tighten them more! I'd have had to take off the front belly pan to get at the other end of the bolt and could not. I tried holding onto the bolt threads with a big pair of vice grips then tightenings the nut but no dice. Couldn't budge it. But because I kept re-checking and it didn't get any more loose I risked it and got home fine.

All-in-all guys I do NOT recommend using the Maximus-3 Tow Loops. I think a conventional base plate bolted to the frame is both more reliable and much easier to use. Removing the through-pins after towing continues to require me to use a hammer and punch. Unless both the RV and the Gladiator are on perfectly flat, level surfaces AND there is no load WHATSOEVER on the pin it will NOT come out without being driven out.

Last, the potholes were so bad I was trying to "straddle" the ruts semi trucks had worn in the right lane causing chunks of pavement to be removed. In some places the chunks are an inch deep, in other places much deeper. I ran over a chain saw (EEK!!) that had bounced out of a pickup. Luckily no damage to my oil or trans pan in RV nor Jeep but I saw a couple trailers pulled over with either broken rims or in one case a broken axle.

Be careful out there!

 

[SamJ3]

2018 Jayco Alante 31R, F53 chassis, Triton V10, 228" WB, 20,500# GVWR, 5,000# tow capacity.
2022 Jeep Gladiator Sport, curb weight 4750#
Roadmaster Nighthawk (& Brakebuddy Stealth)

Longest trip leg so far is about 600 miles, of a combination of flat lands and mountains.

I set the tranny to 'Tow/Haul mode' which changes the shift profile. Does fine on cruise control on grades up to 4-5%. It will downshift and start 'screaming' when it has to hold over 3800 RPMs, but no overheating issues at all, even in the summer months. Uphill grades over 5% have difficulty acerating or keeping speeds over 50-60. 6% grade will slow down, and 7% or more is 'unpleasant', slowing down to as low as 35-40, or kicking off the cruise control. So, it can do 7-8% grades for short runs, but I will plan my trip to keep it at or under 6% when possible.

 

[Kevin_D]

All-in-all guys I do NOT recommend using the Maximus-3 Tow Loops. I think a conventional base plate bolted to the frame is both more reliable and much easier to use. Removing the through-pins after towing continues to require me to use a hammer and punch. Unless both the RV and the Gladiator are on perfectly flat, level surfaces AND there is no load WHATSOEVER on the pin it will NOT come out without being driven out.

I use a rubber mallet to tap out the pins from my Maximus-3 tow loops, but I don't have to drive them out.
I'm using a Falcon All-Terrain tow bar, perhaps that makes the difference.

Kevin

 

[rcraighughes]

Im at Glacier National now. 1 month into a year long trip. I cant even feel my Gladiator behind my Super C

 

[Alpine Warthog]

I've only flat towed once and it was with a bare bones $100 tow bar that was mounted to the steel bumper of my XJ. Sketchy is putting it mildly. I've been scared to do it ever since.

What's the lowest priced option anyone would even consider flat towing with? I don't RV often enough to put $4000 into the set up. I'm pulling with a 38 foot gasser Class A. (V-10 ford engined Damon Challenger)

 

[sarguy1941]

What's the lowest priced option anyone would even consider flat towing with? I don't RV often enough to put $4000 into the set up. I'm pulling with a 38 foot gasser Class A. (V-10 ford engined Damon Challenger)

I use the Blue Ox Fixed tow bar on my JK still. I built my front bumper and bolted on bracket The brackets came from Rock Hard for $100. We do use a brake buddy that was $1000 at Camping World at the time. It was well worth the investment. So I guess in the end I have maybe $1500 into our setup including safety cables. The JK already had the light harness so didn't have to deal with that.

https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Tow_Bar-pt-Fixed.aspx

https://www.rockhard4x4.com/product_p/rh-8000-bo.htm

I have used tow bars for 40 years so hooking up the fixed bar takes about 2 minutes with wife and I. I know many that can't handle it but it works great for us.

 

[Dakotaz]

I used the $100 towbar with the towbar connection welded to my bumper. The welder built the bumper for the towbar. Also had the Break Buddy which you definitely need in my opinion. Towed great behind my Class C in the Arizona mountains.

 

[Blackjeepjk]

I don’t think cost or brand matters as long as it is safe for your application.

I use a roadmaster all terrain towbar, blue ox patriot brake, with direct connect roadmaster base plate. Also just use harbor freight magnetic lights for visibility. I’m on my 2nd set up like this on 2 different jeeps and 50k miles total flat towed.

 

[Fpolanco]

I plan on using mine as such, if I can get my motorhome fixed. My E-450 is rated at pulling 7500 pounds. However, the hitch supplied from the factory is a 5000 pound hitch. So, I am having mine replaced with a higher capacity hitch. You might not have that problem. I would bet as long as your hitch was OK capacity wise, you’d be fine…

Sorry for reviving a super-old thread/comment but this intrigues me...

My wife and I are looking at purchasing a Class C on the 450 chassis (6.8L V10). Most of them are rated for 5k towing. I "think" we'd be ok towing out west but I'm always up for adding a bit more margin of error.

How did you go about figuring out that your RV could tow more? Or did you have the 7.3L and, by default, you could just tow more...?

 

[yoda13]

Sorry for reviving a super-old thread/comment but this intrigues me...

My wife and I are looking at purchasing a Class C on the 450 chassis (6.8L V10). Most of them are rated for 5k towing. I "think" we'd be ok towing out west but I'm always up for adding a bit more margin of error.

How did you go about figuring out that your RV could tow more? Or did you have the 7.3L and, by default, you could just tow more...?

My GCVWR was 7500 pounds more than my GVWR. It has a sticker mounted in the closet with these numbers on it, as well as the owners manual that came with the motorhome. I have the V10. I can’t even tell the gladiator is back there, except when accelerating.

 

[Fpolanco]

My GCVWR was 7500 pounds more than my GVWR. It has a sticker mounted in the closet with these numbers on it, as well as the owners manual that came with the motorhome. I have the V10. I can’t even tell the gladiator is back there, except when accelerating.

This is perfect timing!! We’re hopefully get eyes on an RV tomorrow (but def this week). I’ll be sure to find the sticker.

Most of the ones we’re looking at will have the V10. Have heard nothing but great thing about this motor.

Thank you for the reply!

 

[yoda13]

This is perfect timing!! We’re hopefully get eyes on an RV tomorrow (but def this week). I’ll be sure to find the sticker.

Most of the ones we’re looking at will have the V10. Have heard nothing but great thing about this motor.

Thank you for the reply!

You are welcome! This is my second RV with the v10, and I have been pleased so far!

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