What’s the ONE piece of advice you’d give to a new Gladiator owner?

[DirkG]

Great maintenance advice and solid advice to drive it first in stock form and then make a decision on mods.

Also, realize it's not a Toyota. It's doors and roof come off and its a Jeep. You bought it for fun, not for Japanese reliability. Enjoy (and service/prepare) accordingly.

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[NC_Overland]

Or those stupid DOT clearance lights in the grille that people think look cool because Raptors have them. They don’t know that Raptors have to have them because they’re over 80” wide.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

Or those stupid DOT clearance lights in the grille that people think look cool because Raptors have them. They don’t know that Raptors have to have them because they’re over 80” wide.

I like the raptor lights…..

 

[NC_Overland]

It’s a big pet peeve of mine. They bother me worse than angry grilles because 99/100 people have no idea why they have them.

 

[Sandman 4x4]

Check your oil every other fuel fill, after filling up. Some engine consume oil, not much but more than others, sometimes.

Change your oil every 5000 miles, not more as the manual/dealer tells you. They do this to "reduce emissions" and "save you money" until you need a $10k engine. An extra oil change is cheaper than a new engine (This goes for ALL modern engines/brands).

Check your coolant level every couple weeks. Some people have noticed a leak/weep near the coolant reservoir/bottle. Not super common, but also pretty easy/simply fix if it happens.

Have your brakes checked every time you rotate tires and/or change your oil. According to a GM at a local Jeep dealer, "the front brake pads seem to not last as long at say the RAM front pads do, not sure why but I thought you should know". YMMV, but when you use the brakes, 70% of the work is done with the front brakes, and more weight/speed = more heat = more wear.

Check tire PSI every fuel fill, every first drive, and before/after every trail. This will help extend the life of your tires.

Use proper PSI for tires depending on: vehicle weight, tire brand/model, usage. Again, this will help extend tire life AND increase traction/safety.

Rotate your tires every 3000-5000 miles, or every oil change if you followed my Oil Change Interval recommendations.

4x4 is NOT for winter roads, it's for LOW TRACTION situations. Yes sometimes you may need it on the roads during winter, but it's NOT for conditions where you can see the pavement/concrete at all, especially at speed or in sharp turns.

Avoid wheel hop in 4x4, this can damage/break things (and on ANY 4x4 brand/model).

Use Regular gas (87oct), premium isn't doing anything to help you, unless you're tuned for it (and 99% of you aren't).

Ethanol-free doesn't help either, IN FACT...E-free increases carbon buildup on your valves. The Ethanol in fuel actually helps clean the backside of your intake valves on ANY non-Direct Injection engine.

Test your ESS/Auto Start-Stop system every couple weeks to verify the health of your AUX battery. Do this by: verify engine is at operating temps (a 10-15 minute drive should do this), turning off climate system, enable (if you disable) ESS, scroll the EVIC (center screen at gauge cluster) to page 6 (ESS screen). This should tell you if it's "not ready" followed by a reason, or "ready". As long as you don't see a yellow/amber symbol/light on above the fuel gauge, you should be fine, if that light is on, you may want to test your AUX battery.

Change your diff/t-case fluid every 40-60k miles, and your gearbox (manual transmission) fluid at the same time. Sooner if you tow/haul or go off-roading often (at least 1x/month, and I mean real off-roading, not driving on gravel).


These will extend the life of your truck significantly vs doing the bare minimum the owners manual/dealership/service centers tell you. I build race engines that last over 100k miles and I can confidently warranty for that time if you follow my maintenance requirements (more strict but worth it when the engine is $10k). I follow the above when possible/needed and all my vehicles safely handle the abuse I put them through, at 20-30k miles/year...EACH.

Using non Top Tier gas in reg 87 octane, may not be doing you any favors. But there is a decent enough difference between non a Top Tier reg grade additives that are present even in the lowest grade Top Tier, except for Sunoco 85 regular economy. But I use only TT regular in two full ups, with the third always being 93 Shell or Mobile brands. That have to a small enough degree cleansing additives that I’m sure I will never have the need for the “$190 induction cleaner process “ the dealer just offered at today’s oil change. That might be necessary it you use cheap reg brand gas.

 

[OVERLORD]

Or those stupid DOT clearance lights in the grille that people think look cool because Raptors have them. They don’t know that Raptors have to have them because they’re over 80” wide.

Guilty as charged!

Nun of them there wimpy three lights!

Fill them there slots, or go home, homey!

The OVERLORD is one RCH wider then Atey Inches.

 

[Free2roam]

Using non Top Tier gas in reg 87 octane, may not be doing you any favors. But there is a decent enough difference between non a Top Tier reg grade additives that are present even in the lowest grade Top Tier, except for Sunoco 85 regular economy. But I use only TT regular in two full ups, with the third always being 93 Shell or Mobile brands. That have to a small enough degree cleansing additives that I’m sure I will never have the need for the “$190 induction cleaner process “ the dealer just offered at today’s oil change. That might be necessary it you use cheap reg brand gas.

Unless you're driving a turbocharged or high performance vehicle there is no reason for 93 octane 92 octane or 91 octane gas 89 octane is simply a mixture of 91 and 87 I did a test with a friend who I used to commute with which was I fill up your truck with the cheapest gas I can find you fill up my car with the most expensive gas Chevron or whatever and let's compare the mileage per gallon on each fill up there was no significant change in miles per gallon at all.

 

[McRuss]

Use whatever gas you want....good old regular works great for me, has for years in many vehicles with no problems. YMMV. I've had several Jeeps over the last many years, the Gladiator is for me the best. I have kept it stock (as it came to me with 114,000 miles) except for the few little things that bothered me. Like the tall radio antenna and the 'turn off at every light' device. I splurged and bought the $300 device that shuts it off. Also gave me a bunch of other options such as turning on the heated passenger seat when I do a remote start. I have a few off road trips planned so bought a Badland winch which is still just a passenger for now. Still have to get plastic bumper off...

 

[Blade1668]

My recommendations for a new owner, most have been covered by others already.
To beat the dead horse of them, read the owner manual on it for starter. Hell I downloaded it before I purchased and had read it. I have a open PDF copy on my phone, and folded tabbed pages on my hardcopy one I look though occasionally.
Change the fluids before the manual says to. Check them too. Especially the oil and filter, possibly send a oil sample at first oil change for testing follow up with another on regular intervals that you decide. Decide what brand of oil your going to use (choose wisely) the oil testing can be a heads up on problem.
Drive it, use regular gasoline if gas engine (well covered on 87-89 octane) fuel. It's not designed for other so now if towing or high altitude in heat possibly.
Change of axle gears oil on (new purchased) especially change it in timely manner and at least yearly, if a lot of towing trailers or hard use definitely. Catching problem early is better.
Transmission flush, I wouldn't recommend it but change transmission fluid definitely would. Note the many threads of transmission problems. A common denominator I've heard is having transmissions flushed on many not just a fluid changes. Definitely not a "Lifetime fluid" unless you consider a Lifetime being a warranty life of 5 years. Heck I've changed my Wrangler's 6 speed M/T fluid many times over.
That's if you actually keep a vehicle for long term. . . If your of the change vehicles like some change underwear, F### it you don't need to worry about it.
Drive it decide what or if you need it (want) what modifications or add-on's. Note if you got the s###y HT tires start looking at better tires.

 

[NC_Overland]

I tow a lot and I changed my diffs and transfer case at 60k. The rear end fluid was slightly dark, but the other fluids looked brand new.

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

1) Most modern engines are equipped with detonation or "knock" sensors.
2) Use premium, top tier fuels with detergent packages to keep those pistons & ring lands free of sticky carbon & use premium synthetic engine oils & replace @ 3k to 4k mile intervals.
3) Premium fuels will allow the engine to achieve its rated power & lowest fuel consumption by ignoring the knock that is no longer there.
4) When using low grade, low octane gas, the computer retards timing & increases fuel consumption to protect the engine from knocking which dilutes & pollutes the oil.
5) If forced to use low grade fuel, please use detergent additives.
6) Modern engines use low tension piston rings to reduce friction.

1) Yes, but not for performance, it's to protect the catalytic converters.
2) Waste of money. Two real world reasons/examples: A) the ECM is tuned on the most common octane in the region and that's 87oct in the USA and using higher quality is not getting you anything. B) I've personally tested 87 vs 93oct and not only do the 0-60 times and "feel" stay the same, it costs 15% more to do that. Weather, temps, heat soak, I've accounted for all variables. WASTE OF MONEY.
3) Again, no they won't because the ECM is NOT tuned for those octane ratings, mostly due to not being available everywhere nor needing it. And the whole "better MPG" stems from the days when you could retune for better fuel by turning your DISTRIBUTOR. Modern EFI vehicles are locked to the EPA/CARB/CAFE tuning requirements.
4) Not true, unless you're running 86oct or less, which is NOT common or advisable unless it's the only option to get you to better fuel ASAP, and you better baby it. EPA regulations don't allow for fuel dilution when operating normally, you'd have to have a malfunction or modification to cause this.
5) The owners manual explicitly states "DO NOT USE FUEL OR OIL ADDITIVES!" so please stop parroting old misinformation.
6) Modern engines use coated/alloy-based rings to reduce friction. NOT "low tension" rings as this would allow excessive blow-by and/or wear.

My advise would be drive it first, months at least, to determine what you really need for what you do. If you have money that you need to burn, then go on-line, look at all the available options, neat things, toys, and whatever else companies have for sale.

There are a lot of "just in case" stuff people buy and the most off-roading they ever do wouldn't even challenge a Subaru.

This is what I did, I research for months and stalked the for sale ads nationwide to see what I really wanted. Having an understanding of where you want to take it and the tools needed to complete the trail with the least damage to you vehicle and trail as possible will make enjoying your JT that much better.

And those "just in case" buyers always make me laugh, as did your statement for personal reasons...Like the fact I took my STOCK 2008 outback up White Tank Mountain in AZ with no issues, meanwhile as I'm coming back down I see a fancy modded JKUR watching my decent. I roll up and he asked how far up I went. "ALL the way man!" IN A SUBARU??? "Yeah, just pick a good line and know how to drive...are you going up?" Nah, not in this...

Using non Top Tier gas in reg 87 octane, may not be doing you any favors. But there is a decent enough difference between non a Top Tier reg grade additives that are present even in the lowest grade Top Tier, except for Sunoco 85 regular economy. But I use only TT regular in two full ups, with the third always being 93 Shell or Mobile brands. That have to a small enough degree cleansing additives that I’m sure I will never have the need for the “$190 induction cleaner process “ the dealer just offered at today’s oil change. That might be necessary it you use cheap reg brand gas.

TT fuels aren't what they used to be. It's more about the quality of the storage tanks and how often they're refilled. I worked for Costco years ago and helped the gas station. They're a "Top Tier Fuel" distributor...so is Chevron, Exxon, Mobil ,and Shell. EVERY. SINGLE. TIME. I took my Scion (stock or modded), wrx (stroked/built), my 636/zx10/450/230 (motorcycles), or my JT to the last four...they would run like absolute DOG SHIT. My wrx would pull timing, report mild pinging, and sometimes would pull BASE TIMING too. My 636 would run so bad it felt like "full power" mode was in "low power" mode. Both of my 6 cylinder Outback's would throw an intermittent CEL if I used those brands of fuel, even with the 91oct it required at those last places. Costco only had my business while I worked for them or had family/friends with a card, but was also hit or miss depending on location. Correct octane and fuel storage is key.

Find a quality gas station that provides quality fuels, and takes pride in maintaining their systems to provide a quality product. Those places are often the BEST choice for filling up. This experience is over a decade of driving a multitude of vehicles across the US from coast to coast, both N/S and E/W.

 

[Stan H]

Unless you're driving a turbocharged or high performance vehicle there is no reason for 93 octane 92 octane or 91 octane gas 89 octane is simply a mixture of 91 and 87 I did a test with a friend who I used to commute with which was I fill up your truck with the cheapest gas I can find you fill up my car with the most expensive gas Chevron or whatever and let's compare the mileage per gallon on each fill up there was no significant change in miles per gallon at all.

.mileage isn't going to take a hike but the additives in the higher grade gas help clean valves and injectors.

 

[wadewolf]

You forgot the separate fund for duck purchases.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Unless you're driving a turbocharged or high performance vehicle there is no reason for 93 octane 92 octane or 91 octane gas 89 octane is simply a mixture of 91 and 87 I did a test with a friend who I used to commute with which was I fill up your truck with the cheapest gas I can find you fill up my car with the most expensive gas Chevron or whatever and let's compare the mileage per gallon on each fill up there was no significant change in miles per gallon at all.

I agree. Gas is gas.

One minor thing, 89 and 91 are blends of 87 and 93.

 

[cybercat]

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