What and when do you add a lift/Suspension to a new Rubi Gladiator?

[Siskiyou Recon]

I wanted to ask when “you” made changes. I have a Rubicon X w/3.6 L . I want to run 37” tires. I am going to re gear to 5.13s. My jeep has 1700 miles. I have added a warn winch. Ceramic paint coating. And a fire extinguisher. But that’s all so far

thanks for the help in advance

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[Stan H]

I wanted to ask when “you” made changes. I have a Rubicon X w/3.6 L . I want to run 37” tires. I am going to re gear to 5.13s. My jeep has 1700 miles. I have added a warn winch. Ceramic paint coating. And a fire extinguisher. But that’s all so far

thanks for the help in advance

Only add a lift after you have tried it in places you like to travel. They will surprise you . Me I added a lift shortly after I was pushing mud with the front bumper. I realized then I need a taller ride . So many good lifts out there .
Metal cloak , Rock krawler, Tera Flex , AEV IMHO are near all top of the line .

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

Suspension to clear tires. Tires to clear obstacles. That’s the golden rule. With the Rubi transfer case you may only need to go to 4.88, but that’s a whole ball of wax in here. With the higher fenders you also don’t have to go up very much unless you plan on progressing to something like a 40” later. 2.5-3” and you should easily clear 37” tires with a decent amount of flexy.

 

[Stan H]

Suspension to clear tires. Tires to clear obstacles. That’s the golden rule. With the Rubi transfer case you may only need to go to 4.88, but that’s a whole ball of wax in here. With the higher fenders you also don’t have to go up very much unless you plan on progressing to something like a 40” later. 2.5-3” and you should easily clear 37” tires with a decent amount of flexy.

Your correct Bandit I went 2.5" on my first lift and I am wearing 35's but 37's will easily fit in the wheel wells

 

[Free2roam]

Don't rule out Clayton lift kits

 

[Kanger]

Anyone have issues with warranty claims being rejected due to lift?

I got a new '25 rubi X as well and want to add lift and bigger tires, but concerned about warranty issues should problems arise.

 

[Idlethunder]

Anyone have issues with warranty claims being rejected due to lift?

I got a new '25 rubi X as well and want to add lift and bigger tires, but concerned about warranty issues should problems arise.

I never had a warranty problem with the Clayton 2.5” lift and 37s on my last Gladiator but my dealer was fine with mods. I also never needed warranty work on anything related to the suspension. It really all comes down the dealership.

I wanted to ask when “you” made changes. I have a Rubicon X w/3.6 L . I want to run 37” tires. I am going to re gear to 5.13s. My jeep has 1700 miles. I have added a warn winch. Ceramic paint coating. And a fire extinguisher. But that’s all so far

thanks for the help in advance

On my last one, I went to 35” tires within a few months but waited a year before lifting and going to 37s. I was told early that if you don’t have money to burn drive it stock until you know what you need. That worked out very well for me. The buy once cry once mentality also helped a lot. In four years with the 22 JT, there were only a couple things I regretted buying. Spend some time with it and you will discover anything you need to change

 

[VA6489]

I wanted to ask when “you” made changes. I have a Rubicon X w/3.6 L . I want to run 37” tires. I am going to re gear to 5.13s. My jeep has 1700 miles. I have added a warn winch. Ceramic paint coating. And a fire extinguisher. But that’s all so far

thanks for the help in advance

You have driven you Jeep, what does it not do well? What kind of trails are you planning to run open desert or technical ? What kind of driver are you Slow or fast?
Wanting a lift is different from needing a lift. this will encompass more than just bolting on a lift. There are Geometry concerns to take into account.
What is you Budget? Remember you get what you pay for. Better design systems have rebuildable control arm ends. Ballistic and Johnny Joint are a couple that come to mind. The are also serviceable.
Geometry in suspension systems is very important. Get that right and you Jeep rides like a Caddy. Get it wrong and you will be hating yourself. Under 3 inch lifts are fine for short arm systems as they are close to the OEM geometry. Taller than 3 inch control arm angles come into play. Big lifts and short control arms add to axle steer. To combat this the control arm is lengthen (Long arm systems). Short arm systems are lower in price, long arm system are more involved and usually require a bigger investment in installation.

Gearing there are a great number of gearing calculators out there. I suggest you plug in some number in this calculator to get the desired RPM for a given Road speed. https://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
If you live in a very hilly area 5.13 might be a little steep for 37 inch tires. you can do a side by side comparison in the above calculator link.

Going to a forum is a good place to start..... you ask 4 different folks on here and you will get 6 different opinions.

Do some research before going forward.

 

[Gizmo]

I lifted it and 37s about a week after I bought it. I cant stand the looks of a stock Gladiator. I hated them when they came out. Then I saw one on 40s and said now that looks good.

 

[slodsm]

I ordered the lifts for every one of my jeeps on the way home from the dealership. They get wheeled pretty often and I’ve been doing it a long time and know the places I like to go so I already know how much lift and tire I need.

 

[Zachanadandy]

My mojave got a 2" lift and 37s at 1100 miles after just one trip to death valley. These things are long and low stock. Even on moderate trails you'll be dragging the belly and rear bumper especially if you're used to wheeling a wrangler. On a swb rig I agree with the idea of just enough lift to clear the tires. With the length and rear overhang on the JT, even though 37s were cleared just fine with no rubbing with the 2" lift it was still dragging the belly and rear bumper often. Now it's on metalcloak 3.5" springs and it's way better. To get the same approach/departure/breakover angles on 2" of lift you'd need 42s. Then you're talking 1 ton axles and all the other upgrades that come with that.

 

[azmojave]

I waited a couple years before modifying but that’s how I like to do it. I wanted to see what it could do and how far I could push it before I decided what to add. It depends on your goal. Just for looks? Unlimited funds? Go for it asap. If you’re unsure how you’re going to use it off-road, give it some time and decide what you need. If you already know then go for it.

 

[Siskiyou Recon]

You have driven you Jeep, what does it not do well? What kind of trails are you planning to run open desert or technical ? What kind of driver are you Slow or fast?
Wanting a lift is different from needing a lift. this will encompass more than just bolting on a lift. There are Geometry concerns to take into account.
What is you Budget? Remember you get what you pay for. Better design systems have rebuildable control arm ends. Ballistic and Johnny Joint are a couple that come to mind. The are also serviceable.
Geometry in suspension systems is very important. Get that right and you Jeep rides like a Caddy. Get it wrong and you will be hating yourself. Under 3 inch lifts are fine for short arm systems as they are close to the OEM geometry. Taller than 3 inch control arm angles come into play. Big lifts and short control arms add to axle steer. To combat this the control arm is lengthen (Long arm systems). Short arm systems are lower in price, long arm system are more involved and usually require a bigger investment in installation.

Gearing there are a great number of gearing calculators out there. I suggest you plug in some number in this calculator to get the desired RPM for a given Road speed. https://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
If you live in a very hilly area 5.13 might be a little steep for 37 inch tires. you can do a side by side comparison in the above calculator link.

Going to a forum is a good place to start..... you ask 4 different folks on here and you will get 6 different opinions.

Do some research before going forward.

Thanks I really appreciate it and yes, I do live in a Hill / Mountain area and I do a lot of mountain crawling so lower gears well. I think a positive decision.

You have driven you Jeep, what does it not do well? What kind of trails are you planning to run open desert or technical ? What kind of driver are you Slow or fast?
Wanting a lift is different from needing a lift. this will encompass more than just bolting on a lift. There are Geometry concerns to take into account.
What is you Budget? Remember you get what you pay for. Better design systems have rebuildable control arm ends. Ballistic and Johnny Joint are a couple that come to mind. The are also serviceable.
Geometry in suspension systems is very important. Get that right and you Jeep rides like a Caddy. Get it wrong and you will be hating yourself. Under 3 inch lifts are fine for short arm systems as they are close to the OEM geometry. Taller than 3 inch control arm angles come into play. Big lifts and short control arms add to axle steer. To combat this the control arm is lengthen (Long arm systems). Short arm systems are lower in price, long arm system are more involved and usually require a bigger investment in installation.

Gearing there are a great number of gearing calculators out there. I suggest you plug in some number in this calculator to get the desired RPM for a given Road speed. https://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
If you live in a very hilly area 5.13 might be a little steep for 37 inch tires. you can do a side by side comparison in the above calculator link.

Going to a forum is a good place to start..... you ask 4 different folks on here and you will get 6 different opinions.

Do some research before going forward.

I am a mostly slow crawler. Been wheeling/Jeeping for 45 years. (Tacoma)(Wrangler 2 door) Budget is mostly wide open with reason.
I want new wheels and tires pretty bad but its one of the most costly spends so.

 

[Siskiyou Recon]

I wanted to ask when “you” made changes. I have a Rubicon X w/3.6 L . I want to run 37” tires. I am going to re gear to 5.13s. My jeep has 1700 miles. I have added a warn winch. Ceramic paint coating. And a fire extinguisher. But that’s all so far

thanks for the help in advance

OK I did want to get started but will wait for now. It makes sense to me. But I can only holdout so long. I have always wanted to go with a dedicated off road rig and this is going to be it.
I want good clearance and approach with departure. Also need to haul game out hence the Gladiator

 

[Stan H]

OK I did want to get started but will wait for now. It makes sense to me. But I can only holdout so long. I have always wanted to go with a dedicated off road rig and this is going to be it.
I want good clearance and approach with departure. Also need to haul game out hence the Gladiator

Start with minimum 3.5" and 37's if you want a decent approach and departure . Anything under is okay but not without dragging the rear alot.

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