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What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

Texops

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I did the same topo blackout decal on my hood and l love that fact it kills the glare off of it
The 1st time i was driving toward the sun without a decal this yellow was blinding
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Freems

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I gotta disagree on this one. I’ve always been the double the wheel size type of guy. I could complain about 20s on 35s and likely 20s on 37s, but 20s on 40s works.
I concur on 40s on 20s for me I like the proportion look. I have a Jeep mate 10 years ago who spent a ton of money to convert his jk, back to 15” rims, and 33+ tires..had to change almost the entire brake system out to fit and function, his preferred proportionally view point.
 

40x40

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Apparently I “broke” it? Not really. I ended up being added to the rear locker position sensor failure vip club. I had so much time in the car that I made some calls. It sounds like the plan will be to change fluid and clean diffs after mud holes at Windrock, then the z automotive fix instead of the traditional fix that requires breaking down the whole rear end.

IMG_8806.jpeg
hey Dan, if you check your old pms from me i bought a sensor from a shop north of Ouray when i was there last july. i went that route because of uncertainty of the Z allowing the locker to actually work, not just get rid of the "message". the rear also disallowed the front to work. oh yeah, you said to look you up to do holy cross this summer!!!
 

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Shibbyjeep

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I have passed that along. I wonder if in the meantime, you could add a tint to the light to get the desired look? Make sure to check with local regulations for the tinted or smoked look.
@ORACLE Terry did you ever get a reply or explanation?

Thank you
 

WILDHOBO

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hey Dan, if you check your old pms from me i bought a sensor from a shop north of Ouray when i was there last july. i went that route because of uncertainty of the Z allowing the locker to actually work, not just get rid of the "message". the rear also disallowed the front to work. oh yeah, you said to look you up to do holy cross this summer!!!
I had the exact same thought. The z automotive stuff is a band aid, but a shop I trust told me it’s not a bad one. I’m putting those on for now, and will still likely do a full diff service and sensor replacement later when I have time.

definitely let me know when you want to do holy cross.
 

40x40

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I had the exact same thought. The z automotive stuff is a band aid, but a shop I trust told me it’s not a bad one. I’m putting those on for now, and will still likely do a full diff service and sensor replacement later when I have time.

definitely let me know when you want to do holy cross.
the oem sensor replacement is only removing 1 torx head machine screw and the wiring connector. i should have available dates by 5/6/24. thanks
 

WILDHOBO

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the oem sensor replacement is only removing 1 torx head machine screw and the wiring connector. i should have available dates by 5/6/24. thanks
I was told the oem sensor requires disassembling the ring and pinion. If I find out that’s bs, I’ll be pissed.
 

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Hootbro

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I was told the oem sensor requires disassembling the ring and pinion. If I find out that’s bs, I’ll be pissed.
The sensor no, it is the whole actuator that when replaced, requires the ring and pinion disassembly.
 

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Minty JL

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Drove the XC90, because there is not enough parking for tall vehicles at work
 

Rusty PW

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Apparently I “broke” it? Not really. I ended up being added to the rear locker position sensor failure vip club. I had so much time in the car that I made some calls. It sounds like the plan will be to change fluid and clean diffs after mud holes at Windrock, then the z automotive fix instead of the traditional fix that requires breaking down the whole rear end.

IMG_8806.webp
A little over $300 for the sensor. You just have to remove the diff cover, one bolt and unplug the sensor. If doing this. I would pot the new sensor before install.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/locker-position-sensor-potting-dana-44.59581/
 

WILDHOBO

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The sensor no, it is the whole actuator that when replaced, requires the ring and pinion disassembly.
You’re awesome. Thanks.
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