What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[JCappy]

It is taking me months. it hasn’t moved since 4/19. Most of that was waiting for parts.

Sure doesn't seem that long. Maybe I should have said years then

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[HooliganActual]

Almost Heaven WV ,Easy now , We invented the "toothbrush" !!

When you have a family reunion. If you count all the teeth everyone has. It might add up to a full set.

Want to know why they paint an X on the side of the sheep in WV? So they know which ones kick.

What do you call a farmer in WV with a sheep under each arm? A pimp.

As someone who was born and raised in eastern Kentucky, I'd like to pitch in, albeit a bit late:

A Social worker was driving down a back country road in WV and saw a young boy, about 10, walking down the side of the road wearing only one shoe. Concerned, she pulls over and says "Son, it looks as though you've lost one of your shoes", to which the young boy replied, "No Ma'am...found one!"

 

[WILDHOBO]

Sure doesn't seem that long. Maybe I should have said years then

I had to go back in my calendar to see what day a friend and I did the tranny pan. Technically it went in the garage the day before for skid removals. Oh well. It’ll drive in June. It really needed this. Lots of things were being put off for a while, especially the messed up skids, the passenger ball joint issues, and the RCV rebuilds. Really glad to have those things behind me. If anything the tranny pan project saved me. I hadn’t noticed that the engine/tranny skid was touching the exhaust after getting bent up. That could have gotten worse fast as there had already been some cosmetic contact to the tranny pan. The rabbit hole started when I realized I’d be waiting quite a while to have a gas tank skid (version 1) remade. I thought I might as well get all this crap done of I couldn’t drive it anyway.

 

[HooliganActual]

Pulled the driver side RCV for its rebuild.

Edit: since switching to iron knuckles, I’m obviously getting rust on the raw machined surfaces. Anyone spatter than me have any suggestions for preventing it some, without wrecking tolerances or screwing up the fit? I’d like to get the surface rust off before reassembly as well without removing metal. Where are the smart people?

Dan, I know I'm late to the party but I am way behind on this thread. Whether you have a solution to the rusty machined surfaces or not, buy this for the next time:
https://neolube.com/dry-film-lubricant/

We used to use this on all of the steam system bolts and parts when I was in the Navy. I have used this when installing exhaust manifold bolts and two years later they come out like I had just put them in the day before.

It's only colloidal graphite suspended in an isopropanol solution and while there are other similar products out there that you can find/buy, this one really works! BTW, it's not cheap.

Here's a link to buy it on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Mark-N...xt&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A3T99GUOTQLWJU&gQT=3

 

[WILDHOBO]

Dan, I know I'm late to the party but I am way behind on this thread. Whether you have a solution to the rusty machined surfaces or not, buy this for the next time:
https://neolube.com/dry-film-lubricant/

We used to use this on all of the steam system bolts and parts when I was in the Navy. I have used this when installing exhaust manifold bolts and two years later they come out like I had just put them in the day before.

It's only colloidal graphite suspended in an isopropanol solution and while there are other similar products out there that you can find/buy, this one really works! BTW, it's not cheap.

Here's a link to buy it on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Mark-N...xt&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A3T99GUOTQLWJU&gQT=3

That’s awesome. Thanks. It won’t be long before I pull crap apart again, so I might as well have it on hand. Just ordered. I’m tempted to disassemble a couple easy things to put it on there. Like the surface where the hub (unit bearing) fits into the knuckle.

 

[HooliganActual]

That’s awesome. Thanks. It won’t be long before I pull crap apart again, so I might as well have it on hand. Just ordered. I’m tempted to disassemble a couple easy things to put it on there. Like the surface where the hub (unit bearing) fits into the knuckle.

One thing to bear in mind: if you put this on any fastener, you need to look at the torque specs for a lubricated fastener (which is typically less than a dry fastener) or you risk over-torquing. Putting it on something like the spline shaft doesn't really require any precautions.

Here's some other tips:

1. It has it's own applicator: the bottle comes with a brush set into the lid and you use that to spread the stuff on
2. Be very mindful of the open bottle: the liquid is not very viscous. If you tip that bottle over, it will empty before you know what hit you (hard lesson learned, lol)
3. It doesn't take much: sort of like LocTite, a little goes a long way. Depending on the size of what I'm putting it on, I may only what is on the brush after I let it drip off. You'll figure it out quickly the first time you use it.
4. Let it dry: since it is an isopropanol solution, it will dry fairly quickly, but sometimes it is slower at the bottom of a thread groove or spline.

This stuff is the bomb but can be spilled easily. Treat it like gold!

Cheers!

 

[Stan H]

Dan, I know I'm late to the party but I am way behind on this thread. Whether you have a solution to the rusty machined surfaces or not, buy this for the next time:
https://neolube.com/dry-film-lubricant/

We used to use this on all of the steam system bolts and parts when I was in the Navy. I have used this when installing exhaust manifold bolts and two years later they come out like I had just put them in the day before.

It's only colloidal graphite suspended in an isopropanol solution and while there are other similar products out there that you can find/buy, this one really works! BTW, it's not cheap.

Here's a link to buy it on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Mark-N...xt&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A3T99GUOTQLWJU&gQT=3

I added that to my cart for next payday.. I done spent over 2k this go around

 

[WILDHOBO]

I just increased the front bump pucks from 2” to 4” to account for the top mount drag link. When it’s drivable I’ll do some articulation tests to see if I need more, but hopefully not.

 

[HooliganActual]

Any chance on getting the dimensions, maybe a pic with tape spread out?
I've been thinking about pulling my back seat and this would be slick to make ahead of time.

As requested:
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...eftovers-into-a-shop-couch.95813/post-1531766

 

[NULL POINTER]

Nothing nearly as interesting as what some of you are doing. Impressive, @WILDHOBO

I updated my UCONNECT 5 NAV to the latest quarterly map version, 2025.03. ,
Latest Installed Map Release Date 0429/2025.

 

[Rusty PW]

Nothing nearly as interesting as what some of you are doing. Impressive, @WILDHOBO

I updated my UCONNECT 5 NAV to the latest quarterly map version, 2025.03. ,
Latest Installed Map Release Date 0429/2025.

Did you get an email for it?

 

[WILDHOBO]

Nothing nearly as interesting as what some of you are doing. Impressive, @WILDHOBO

I updated my UCONNECT 5 NAV to the latest quarterly map version, 2025.03. ,
Latest Installed Map Release Date 0429/2025.

Don’t give me too much credit. I’m learning as I go. I’m a kid in a candy store.

 

[Mightytalldude]

Don’t give me too much credit. I’m learning as I go. I’m a kid in a candy store.

Jeep diabetes is on the horizon unless you slow on the candy Jeep parts

 

[WILDHOBO]

Jeep diabetes is on the horizon unless you slow on the candy Jeep parts

I don’t care. I’ll do two a day injections of 0x20 and RCV grease.

 

[NULL POINTER]

Did you get an email for it?

No EMAIL. I just check this site about a month or two after the end of each calendar quarter. These updates are for UCONNECT 5 equipped vehicles.
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