You need to pull your plow bar back off. Then you can take it to a machine shop and have a receiver welded onto it. Then you can push your car trailer around again.Attached the snow plow bar.
Tricky - the upper rear bolt for the bar on each end is above the skid plate.
The skid plate can't be removed with the bar in place and can't be put in once the bar is in place.
So to squeeze in a wrench, with the nut taped into the end, up into place above the plate, I had to loosen the front plate to bumper bolts and remove the two lower plate-to-bracket bolts, then once it was in place, put the plate back up.
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while doing this, i looked under the front end and, gee, glad I had the skid plate in place last weekend when I was running through some trails and mud............ might not have been too nice for the shock reservoirs that I have slid farther in to accommodate the snow plow frame brackets.
Plow bar comes off in the spring, as do the side/frame brackets. Just too much sticking down.You need to pull your plow bar back off. Then you can take it to a machine shop and have a receiver welded onto it. Then you can push your car trailer around again.
Pretty sure I see the notch in the skid plate from before.
Warning !!!! ApexAdded these
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all good, didn't take it that way at allWasn't trying to raz you. Just kind of a nesting egg situation lol
not as loud, but it's back.Sounds like the title of a Halloween Horror flick.welp, a few days ago I pulled the top off, use alcohol pads to clean the seal and clean the mounting surface, as well as the seals around the sliding window and my whistle noise stopped...
... but now it's back...not as loud, but it's back.
Which system are you going with?I got tired of waiting for my back to stop hurting and made an appointment with Shift Auto to put my triangulated 4 link suspension kit on .Done on the 16th and really can't wait to feel the difference. Shift has done many of them.
Do you think you’ll be able to plow faster with that Mojave?It works! You can put a Western Defender snow plow on a Mojave! (with a lot of work/effort)
The extra weight of the winch up front helped bring the frame down to the top acceptable distance for my brackets - so adding the weight of the winch was a win, keeping the plow frame close to level, almost parallel to the ground..........
The weight of the plow attached and blade resting on the ground dropped the front 3/4".
More with that blade raised, of course, but would seldom really have it on the road with the blade mounted and 3/4" drop when just sitting in the garage isn't too bad.
Also did some measuring and comparing with Rubicon - my Mojave sits pretty close to 1" taller than Rubicon. I measured from wheel center to a specific point on the fender to allow for tire size, inflation and all. With that method, a change in tire size would make no difference since I'm measuring center of the axle up to a comparable point on the body.
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LOL - I doubt it.Do you think you’ll be able to plow faster with that Mojave?
Have you ever used or heard of BOSS? My brother-in-law is one of their hardware/software engineers. I've seen some of the the projects he has developed over the years. Now, he drives a Prius and never plowwed a drive way. So I am curious if BOSS has a reputable product.LOL - I doubt it.
Without the LSD that the Overland had, it will be interesting.
When I did my plow shopping in 2022, the only JT that Western listed for working with their plow was the Overland. Not sure why, but assumed in the case of the Mojave it was the height and shock reservoirs. Rubicon, I figured it was the sway bar disconnect - but after putting it on the Overland, it wasn't even close to the sway bar at any point.
The instructions talk about trimming the air dam - not a mention at all about a skid plate.
So maybe it was figured it wouldn't work with a skid plate. It doesn't - unless you cut the ends off the skid plate. So maybe that was it - won't work because of the skid plate and shock reservoirs?
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