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What is regearing

Ole Cowboy

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But would it be worth the money to get the extra tow with the 6 speed m/t?
What is your axle ratio and what are you MT ratios?
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Markpod7

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What is your axle ratio and what are you MT ratios?
Ive got the 3.73 ratio M/T gladiator with the tow package (class IV receiver, 240v alternator, engine cooler) keep it on road, daily driver and occasionally probably only towing a 3000lb single axle travel trailer camper. You think it would be worth it to regear to the 4.10?
 

Ole Cowboy

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Ive got the 3.73 ratio M/T gladiator with the tow package (class IV receiver, 240v alternator, engine cooler) keep it on road, daily driver and occasionally probably only towing a 3000lb single axle travel trailer camper. You think it would be worth it to regear to the 4.10?
I was under the impression Max Tow also came with 4:10 gears???

That said I would not spend the coin to go from 3.73 to 4.10. You would not gain enough to justify the $

At 3000 lb max occasionally just live it. REMEMBER the Jeep does not care what gear you drive in. So if you want the benefit of more tow power, just drive in 5th gear. I did that often on my trips across the US to go wheel heading N/NW out of Dallas and fighting the frontal system. I remember once the headwind was so strong I was in 3rd gear right foot up against the firewall and struggling to get to 65 mph and I had 4:88's. Thank goodness it only last about 3 hrs but what a battle and passing 18 wheelers that had been flipped due to high winds.
 

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Max Tow only comes on Autos so the only way to get 4.10 in a M/T gladiator is to get the Rubicon

Here are the ratios
Gear Ratios
1st 5.13
2nd 2.63
3rd 1.53
4th 1.00
5th 0.81
6th 0.72
Reverse 4.49

I have a 6 speed Rubicon on order but also want 37s, preferably not to regear. I hope I can live with it in flat Florida. Wish 6th was the ratio of 5th and they threw in another gear somewhere under the 1.00 ratio of 4th.
 

Ole Cowboy

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Max Tow only comes on Autos so the only way to get 4.10 in a M/T gladiator is to get the Rubicon

Here are the ratios
Gear Ratios
1st 5.13
2nd 2.63
3rd 1.53
4th 1.00
5th 0.81
6th 0.72
Reverse 4.49

I have a 6 speed Rubicon on order but also want 37s, preferably not to regear. I hope I can live with it in flat Florida. Wish 6th was the ratio of 5th and they threw in another gear somewhere under the 1.00 ratio of 4th.
If you want 37's, then 4:88 could well be in your future. I did and never looked back. Your first couple of gears are good juju and well get you up to speed for sure. That 6th gear is all but useless even on the flats...
 

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Markpod7

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I was under the impression Max Tow also came with 4:10 gears???

That said I would not spend the coin to go from 3.73 to 4.10. You would not gain enough to justify the $

At 3000 lb max occasionally just live it. REMEMBER the Jeep does not care what gear you drive in. So if you want the benefit of more tow power, just drive in 5th gear. I did that often on my trips across the US to go wheel heading N/NW out of Dallas and fighting the frontal system. I remember once the headwind was so strong I was in 3rd gear right foot up against the firewall and struggling to get to 65 mph and I had 4:88's. Thank goodness it only last about 3 hrs but what a battle and passing 18 wheelers that had been flipped due to high winds.
Yeah the max tow with 4.10 is only available for the auto transmission, the manual tow package is still geared at 3.73. Well thanks
For the advice I will just run it in a lower gear if I have any struggle pulling the camper!
 

Ole Cowboy

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Yeah the max tow with 4.10 is only available for the auto transmission, the manual tow package is still geared at 3.73. Well thanks
For the advice I will just run it in a lower gear if I have any struggle pulling the camper!
The Jeep does not care what gear its in, so dropping down a gear works...
 

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Thanks but it requires having info I don’t have or know
Not sure what tranny you have but the manual ratios are in this thread, the auto ratios are in Planman’s thread that is linked on this thread and your axle ratios will be on your window sticker. That’s all you need to use this calculator.

Hope this helps.
 

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Can anyone with a M/T confirm if a different front carrier was needed for regear? Picking up my beadlocks wheels and 37s on 2/21, planning to regear to 5.13 with Dana spicers very soon after but read on a different page that if it comes stock with 3.73, a different front carrier may be required. My local shop said I should be fine running on road while waiting on parts for regear but not to go trailing until it’s done to prevent damage, I wasn’t aware that any immediate damage could occur without a regear, can anyone confirm this as well?
 

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When Jeep came out with the original Rubicon it was and in fact still is one of the best-balanced rock crawlers ever built. To help you understand the why I will address the original Rubicon: One of the things talked about is Craw Ratio (CR)8: Low trans gear x Low Transfer case gear x rear axle. NOTE: IMO this is a FLAWED model as it does NOT take into account the height of the tires!

The Jeep Rubicon with OEM 31 in tires and using the 4.0L Jeep engine and 5 sp trans the ideal ratio would be about 66:1. (4x4x4.1)

NOW you have to factor: tire size (diameter) & RPM width of engine & HP curve & torque curve & weight of rig. This is where it gets dicey.

As you head towards a CR of 100:1 and beyond you are going to start needing some deep engine rpms, but you can mitigate that with taller tires, but then where is the torque/hp curve?

1) From a drive-train viewpoint, ideally, you want each set of gears (transmission, transfer case and rear axle) to within .5 +/- .5 of each other. Example: Jeep Rubicon, 4:1 1st gear, 4:1 transfer case, 4.1: rear axle, this is EXCELLENT! Why is this? Strength and equal torque distribution – multiplication of torque in the driveline! Each component is of equal relative strength and torque multiplication is equal thru the drive train (4 x 4 x 4.1 = 66). Is it acceptable to exceed these values? Certainly, just remember added stress on components will require increased strengths and may lead to premature failure of certain components.

2) Why does the Rubicon do so well off road and especially in the rocks? Crawl ratio is balanced with the ability of the Jeep engine (RPM width, torque curve, hp curve) and the Jeeps weight and it all comes together quite nicely.

You have to consider all the factors. Pull the 4.0L out of the Rubicon and put in a good engine, say a high winding V6 that does not get torquey until 2500+ RPM and its a whole different ball game as JK -JT owners might know, assuming you have spent some time behind the wheel of a TJ Rubicon with it 4.0 6.

The 4.0L delivers about 75% of its torque just past idle. Start going much beyond 3200 RPM and the engine is out of breath.

When Jeep moved to the V6 for us hardcore guys it was WTH over. All the torque and Hp is at the opposite end of the rpm curve unlike the 4.0. WHY did they do this? Because most Jeep hardcore wheeling takes place at the curb at the Sonic Drive-in. IMO Jeep should found a better engine than the V6 and it's 6000 + rpm Torque and HP curve...GRANTED the 4.0 was anemic on the highway and with 37's it was a slug.

* Craw Ration. I got no idea what Rag We B Jeep mag came up with this but it was NOT anyone who was a serious off road guy. Failure to INDEX the 'CR' is a fatal flaw because the formula does not take into account the tire diameter. Therefore take the CR and divide the tire diameter in inches into it. Do that on the TJ Rubi and you get an Index of 2.12 of a OEM TJ Rubicon. Now if you change tire sizes you can see the effects of that on performance unlike the CR was stays static and never considers tire size.

Using the 66 CR, throw on a set of 37's and you get an Index of 1.78! In other words, your 37's REDUCED your ability to perform off road...so you need to mitigate and the easy place is your rear axle ratio. In most cases you can spend as little as a few $ hundred or you can go full fu manchu and grab a set of Dynatrac ProRocks for about$12k

TO address your "HOW": This is a gear install on a JK Rubicon that wanted to run 37's so he made the jump to 4:88's.

You have several options on mitigating larger tires: Jeep has given us one by going to a multi-speed 8 gear trans, you could also regear and or add a Supercharger or all.

Take away: Adding 37's etc is a kook factor looks good as your cruise thru Sonic, but it will hurt your overall performance in an otherwise OEM Jeep especially if it is a non Rubicon with something less than a 4.10 gearset and you spend much time on a highway.

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For confirmation you are saying a Gladiator Rubicon going to 37s on a 17” beadlock wheel that is Supercharged (ProCharger Super Charger) does not to regear... correct?
 

Ole Cowboy

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For confirmation you are saying a Gladiator Rubicon going to 37s on a 17” beadlock wheel that is Supercharged (ProCharger Super Charger) does not to regear... correct?
No not at all. The point being the original design team built the Rubicon to a set of principles that were designed for rock crawling.

37's with 4:1 transfer case and 4:1 low first gear work well with 4:88's. This what I ran on my Jeep for almost 100k miles wheeling across the SW US for 8 years. I would also expect good performance off and on road with the new 8 sp auto trans. I would need to sit down and work the ratios but I don't doubt at this time that a deeper gear of say 5:14 would perform well in both city and off road.

What you want to play in the rocks at the big boy level of 3.5 ++ trails is a well balanced Jeep both in driveline ability and in weight distribution.
 

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Can you go too high or too much of a re-gear? And if so, how would that affect the Jeep?
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