where are you powering the winch?

[Limestone]

In the past (2019), I had two Warn power interrupt solenoids malfunction in another application. I have not heard of any other failures of the Warn solenoid, so this may be a very isolated problem. However, given that history, I decided to avoid the Warn power interrupt solenoid this time around. For my JTR, the winch is connected to a 500 amp continuous duty solenoid which in turn is controlled by one of the aux switches. The second solenoid is for a DC to DC charging unit on my trailer. The bracket the solenoids bolt to is fabricated from a flat piece of aluminum and bolts to the Jeep using two of the existing ground bolts. There is not a lot of room available, but everything fit.

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[Jeeptruck]

So let me see if I have this correct. You can remote mount the winch controller or add a bunch of third party stuff if you don’t remote mount. In either case there is not a constant “hot” running from battery to winch that could be grounded in the event of collision. Correct?

 

[Limestone]

So let me see if I have this correct. You can remote mount the winch controller or add a bunch of third party stuff if you don’t remote mount. In either case there is not a constant “hot” running from battery to winch that could be grounded in the event of collision. Correct?

So let me see if I have this correct. You can remote mount the winch controller or add a bunch of third party stuff if you don’t remote mount. In either case there is not a constant “hot” running from battery to winch that could be grounded in the event of collision. Correct?

So let me see if I have this correct. You can remote mount the winch controller or add a bunch of third party stuff if you don’t remote mount. In either case there is not a constant “hot” running from battery to winch that could be grounded in the event of collision. Correct?

A simple approach is attach the winch leads directly to the battery, and then disconnect the positive lead when you don’t want power running to the winch.

 

[OregonTrail]

Interesting that you were able to put the angle iron in facing down. I didn't have room there on mine without scraping the side of the bay. I used the same method for the solenoid, just painted the angle iron to match the body color and put it in with the edge facing up.

So, you have the solenoid connected to an aux switch, winch connected to solenoid, and solenoid connected to battery...correct? If I'm understanding correctly, you have to engage the aux switch for the winch to receive power...am I right?

Because this is what I'd like to do not only for my winch, but also for a compressor.

 

[Limestone]

So, you have the solenoid connected to an aux switch, winch connected to solenoid, and solenoid connected to battery...correct? If I'm understanding correctly, you have to engage the aux switch for the winch to receive power...am I right?

Because this is what I'd like to do not only for my winch, but also for a compressor.

Yes, you are correct.

 

[ACAD_Cowboy]

This may help for the more graphically inclined.

WARNING GRAPHIC CONTENT

Forgive the blurry, the steps to get to a JPG are horrible for fine detail but symbolically we are good. This assumes a dual battery system, if not, omit that section. This also assumes an isolation module on the output side as well as we have been discussing. Key on power is assumed from AUX dash switch.

DCI is your usual dual battery float charger. The A/B is your typical battery multiplexer, they make them in solid state from redarc, blue sea etc but I have always use the mechanical big goofy floor of the truck type, easier to bypass in the event of giggles.

For the uninitiated, this switch would allow you to use either A or B or both A & B for the given high amp load. For high amp electrical winching it is very nice to have both batteries available. When used in concert with the dynamic charging isolation, the alternator doesn't get so beat up when you use A&B . I have never been the biggest fan of starting off one battery and pulling off the other mostly for what it does to the alternator. Without the isolation unit you can also have a floating back feed where you keep pulling off of battery B and thinking A is safe but B keeps discharging off A to level A and B. But we are getting a little too deep into 12v theory here. Sufficing to say if you are pulling say 200A in total for the winch pull, would you rather pull 200A from only one or 100A from both given that its easier for the alternator to "top off" versus charge from "deep drawn". I'd prefer the to only lightly wound both batteries than out right murder one.

 

[OregonTrail]

This may help for the more graphically inclined.

WARNING GRAPHIC CONTENT

Forgive the blurry, the steps to get to a JPG are horrible for fine detail but symbolically we are good. This assumes a dual battery system, if not, omit that section. This also assumes an isolation module on the output side as well as we have been discussing. Key on power is assumed from AUX dash switch.

DCI is your usual dual battery float charger. The A/B is your typical battery multiplexer, they make them in solid state from redarc, blue sea etc but I have always use the mechanical big goofy floor of the truck type, easier to bypass in the event of giggles.

For the uninitiated, this switch would allow you to use either A or B or both A & B for the given high amp load. For high amp electrical winching it is very nice to have both batteries available. When used in concert with the dynamic charging isolation, the alternator doesn't get so beat up when you use A&B . I have never been the biggest fan of starting off one battery and pulling off the other mostly for what it does to the alternator. Without the isolation unit you can also have a floating back feed where you keep pulling off of battery B and thinking A is safe but B keeps discharging off A to level A and B. But we are getting a little too deep into 12v theory here. Sufficing to say if you are pulling say 200A in total for the winch pull, would you rather pull 200A from only one or 100A from both given that its easier for the alternator to "top off" versus charge from "deep drawn". I'd prefer the to only lightly wound both batteries than out right murder one.

Is this an adequate solution, or are there better products? - 2020-2021 Jeep Gladiator JT Dual Battery Kit

For me it would be easier to purchase a system-product rather than piece together everything and hope I'm wiring it correctly.

 

[ACAD_Cowboy]

I'm just demonstrating how the systems work not giving a buy list. How you get there is your business

 

[ACAD_Cowboy]

And yes, to answer your question, it is an adequate solution because it how these system work. The only change is my substitution of a mechanical switch on the load side.

Not knowing whats going on and blindly installing a system because "the man at the shop said..." is even more dangerous than not installing a 12v subsystem because it means you will be stranded at some point when some part fails and be left completely confused; setting tires on fire after puncturing the fuel system for fuel to summon help before wandering into the snow storm because you heard there was a short cut.

I'd rather gave you be able to say well, at the risk of losing all my radio presets, i can disconnect the system here and here and be able to start the truck and get to a safe place to start bug hunting.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

And yes, to answer your question, it is an adequate solution because it how these system work. The only change is my substitution of a mechanical switch on the load side.

Not knowing whats going on and blindly installing a system because "the man at the shop said..." is even more dangerous than not installing a 12v subsystem because it means you will be stranded at some point when some part fails and be left completely confused; setting tires on fire after puncturing the fuel system for fuel to summon help before wandering into the snow storm because you heard there was a short cut.

I'd rather gave you be able to say well, at the risk of losing all my radio presets, i can disconnect the system here and here and be able to start the truck and get to a safe place to start bug hunting.

Are you one of the guys on Dual Survival? Sounds like what they did with a pickup they found to signal for help. The guy that left the truck there was likely very unhappy.

 

[ACAD_Cowboy]

 

[yoda13]

What the holy mother of god is that Mongolian clusterfuck???

Seriously...For the first time ever on a truck I have no idea WTF I’m looking at...

It is slightly frightening to look at

 

[Free2roam]

Links? Part numbers? Interesting setup.

 

[ACAD_Cowboy]

This is the charge side
https://www.genesisoffroad.com/jt-dual-battery-kit

This is the load side
https://www.bluesea.com/products/9001e/e-Series_Selector_Battery_Switch

the relay shown in my drawing would represent the winch's relay and solenoid pack with pilot volatge coming from the dash aux switching; press the dash switch to arm the system, select battery source and pull away.

 

[Beewdawg]

Understood and Agreed. I would not say you spent to much time writing it up. I'm sure that there are many who are not sure how to add a switch like that and will read it and be thankful someone did write it down.

I know I am. Thank you for taking the time to post this. I'm not very comfortable with having a 4ga cable wired straight to the battery without any protection device.

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