Which model should I trade in for?

[TheRealElGis]

I would like to do several mods to a newer model gladiator and could use some insight.

currently owning a gladiator overland since they came out. Want to trade in for a newer model and start from scratch. Mine is currently a 6 speed manual, and would like to stick to the manual. This seems to give up some features or weeds out some of the models.

wanted to put a 5-6 inch lift and 37-40 inch tires as well as several overlanding gear. also would like tow capabilities and ability to run more energy to external sources like a computer etc.

I've been reluctant to do any major mods to the current one i own because the feedback varies so much from one specialist to another. I've had quotes that say no problem we can run that lift and 40 inch tires without anything additional for 5k while another says they have to modify several other parts to fit and could run around 20k. Thats a huge difference. Some mods may differ from one model gladiator to another, but they don't seem to be familiar with the actual differences in the models.

I also didn't initially get a rubicon since it came with a stock lift and offroad tires, thinking why would i pay up for something that i was going to change anyway.

It seems that there is several nuances to consider when upgrading some of these mods.

Would really like to hear some insight on this topic, the do's and don'ts or which models need what changes etc. Does anyone else have experience with finding out some of these must need changes or not needed features during their builds?

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[TheRealElGis]

JUST AN UPDATE:

would like to hear feedback


i have a 2020 gladiator with 38k miles. I am receiving a trade in value of 46k
the loan has 46 months left on it

i went to a dealer yesterday and this occurred:

they have same exact white gladiator 6 speedmanual, with all upgrades (leather seats, aux, bluetooth speaker, tow package, bed liner and trail rail system 2021)

the finance offer after the trade in of previous gladiator would be for 48 months and same payment. so i'm essentially just adding 2 months of payments



they also had a fully outfitted 2021 Gladiator Rocky Ridge

this is an new overland model that was upgraded with 3.5inch lift, 37inch tires, 22 inch rims, power running boards, body color bumper, replaced hood, several other mods, but its a Gray automatic

they are fetching a 30k premium for the Rocky Ridge custom, and also warranty all the extra work that was done

is that premium for the outfitting a reasonable tag? or can that be done by going straight to the outfitter for cheaper?

1. keep current model and add the outfitting

2. trade in for brand new model with additional upgrades then add the outfitting and 2 more months of payments (about 1k)

3. consider the Rocky Ridge model

 

[CG32]

For 30K you could build an amazing rig that's been re-geared and probably replace everything 3 times if needed, so what good is the warranty at that point. That's a steep price tag for convenience IMO.

Plus, if you are set on running 40's and that big of a lift, the biggest limitations will be your axles and gearing. I would want more than the 3.73 gears that come on an overland, but that's just me. I know others have done it, and since i have the 4.10's I don't have any first hand knowledge to base this on. Its just what I have read and learned but I would eventually expect a re-gear one way or another with that lift and tire size.

 

[rharr]

Sounds like you don't really know what you want or how to get there. At the end of the day everything you are asking about is bolt on stuff and really it doesn't matter what model you order. They are all basically the same with a few tweaks here and there. The Gladiator Rocky Ridge is just some dealers conglomerate of bolt on parts, they think someone will pay.

I suggest before you order a new truck and are really interested in doing a serious build, you should either do more research about the nuances of the models, or talk to a place like AEV and tell them what you want and order through them.

 

[TheRealElGis]

Sounds like you don't really know what you want or how to get there. At the end of the day everything you are asking about is bolt on stuff and really it doesn't matter what model you order. They are all basically the same with a few tweaks here and there. The Gladiator Rocky Ridge is just some dealers conglomerate of bolt on parts, they think someone will pay.

I suggest before you order a new truck and are really interested in doing a serious build, you should either do more research about the nuances of the models, or talk to a place like AEV and tell them what you want and order through them.

yep thats why i'm here asking questions

 

[TheRealElGis]

Sounds like you don't really know what you want or how to get there. At the end of the day everything you are asking about is bolt on stuff and really it doesn't matter what model you order. They are all basically the same with a few tweaks here and there. The Gladiator Rocky Ridge is just some dealers conglomerate of bolt on parts, they think someone will pay.

I suggest before you order a new truck and are really interested in doing a serious build, you should either do more research about the nuances of the models, or talk to a place like AEV and tell them what you want and order through them.

AEV is just another outfitter like Rocky Road....i don't suppose you have background on them?

 

[rharr]

No i don't have background info on them other then i see they offer turnkey solutions and that seems to be the path you are headed down.

You will pay a premium cause you are paying for someone else to dig though specs and data and best match your needs to what is offered.

There are thousands of post about all the different nuances between models and what and why some are good for this and that. Time to make a pot of coffee and jump in with 2 feet. Most people won't want to reiterate what is already stated here.

 

[KevinC]

AEV and Rocky Ridge should not even be used in the same sentence. Your posts are all over the place.

To answer at least five of your questions - No.

That's all I got.

 

[TheRealElGis]

AEV and Rocky Ridge should not even be used in the same sentence. Your posts are all over the place.

To answer at least five of your questions - No.

That's all I got.

so is this post supposed to be of value?

how about elaborating on any of what you said

otherwise, if you're just sitting behind your computer all disgruntled and trying to stir up something, there's plenty of hay outside this weekend that you can hit

 

[DocMike]

I had 35s and 3.73. The 4.88 swap was one of the best mods I made. Sucks because it's not visible like a cool light bar or whatever....but in terms of drivability and wheeling it's night and day.
If I were overlanding with 37s..... I would want 5.13 minimum. That's a lot of gear and weight.


OP is going though the what ifs.... I get it. I get tempted to trade in on a Rubicon, but my Sport S is almost RIGHT where I want it. Only thing I regret is the auto disconnect sway bar. But really...JKS disconnects are not that bad.
Plus....my Sport S is in GOBI.


I guess my question is why such a tall lift with 37s? You are looking at longer driveshafts etc. 3in or even 2.5 will be good. swap for a set of rubicon fenders.. Maybe run a terra flex spacer?

California, I would imagine is like Colorado for wheeling. You want the biggest tires with max flex as low as possible. High center of gravity should be avoided.
I like my 35s. But 37s on the JT with a 2.5 lift and then beef up the axles seems to be the sweet spot for the JT.

For 30K you could build an amazing rig that's been re-geared and probably replace everything 3 times if needed, so what good is the warranty at that point. That's a steep price tag for convenience IMO.

Plus, if you are set on running 40's and that big of a lift, the biggest limitations will be your axles and gearing. I would want more than the 3.73 gears that come on an overland, but that's just me. I know others have done it, and since i have the 4.10's I don't have any first hand knowledge to base this on. Its just what I have read and learned but I would eventually expect a re-gear one way or another with that lift and tire size.

 

[Simplejack]

A new JT for 1k = why not? I would do that and stay away from dealer build up rocky ridge ones. My opinion since u asked.

 

[Rahkmalla]

The fact that you think you can make 40" tires work with a quote from one shop for 5k tells me a lot.

stock overland axles will crumble under the weight of 40s. I wouldn't touch 40s without at least 4.88s. I imagine 5.38s would be more common. Remember every inch of tire you add adds more weight than the last inch. (tire weight directly correlated to planar area, and remember area increases to the square of radius).

running 40s isn't cheap, so if you think you've found a cheap way to do it... you're wrong. All you've found is a way to do it cheaply up front. Your repair/replacement costs will even out in the end as you replace all the broken components with the stuff you should have bought the first time around. Keep in mind, if you overstress your driveline like that, and failed axles that you can replace with the proper size is your biggest loss, you're lucky. Good luck keeping that overworked engine cool running massive tires on 3.73s.

 

[TheRealElGis]

A new JT for 1k = why not? I would do that and stay away from dealer build up rocky ridge ones. My opinion since u asked.

gotcha, thank you

 

[TheRealElGis]

The fact that you think you can make 40" tires work with a quote from one shop for 5k tells me a lot.

stock overland axles will crumble under the weight of 40s. I wouldn't touch 40s without at least 4.88s. I imagine 5.38s would be more common. Remember every inch of tire you add adds more weight than the last inch. (tire weight directly correlated to planar area, and remember area increases to the square of radius).

running 40s isn't cheap, so if you think you've found a cheap way to do it... you're wrong. All you've found is a way to do it cheaply up front. Your repair/replacement costs will even out in the end as you replace all the broken components with the stuff you should have bought the first time around. Keep in mind, if you overstress your driveline like that, and failed axles that you can replace with the proper size is your biggest loss, you're lucky. Good luck keeping that overworked engine cool running massive tires on 3.73s.

cool thank you...i've been to several places not just one. Its also why i'm here finding out more

 

[TheRealElGis]

I had 35s and 3.73. The 4.88 swap was one of the best mods I made. Sucks because it's not visible like a cool light bar or whatever....but in terms of drivability and wheeling it's night and day.
If I were overlanding with 37s..... I would want 5.13 minimum. That's a lot of gear and weight.


OP is going though the what ifs.... I get it. I get tempted to trade in on a Rubicon, but my Sport S is almost RIGHT where I want it. Only thing I regret is the auto disconnect sway bar. But really...JKS disconnects are not that bad.
Plus....my Sport S is in GOBI.

thank you....not sure why people get all butt hurt when other people come here to ask questions. Thought thats what this is for. appreciate the feedback

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