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Which trim ...

DailyMoparGuy

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Go drive a few different trims, but I would get a Sport S with the Max Tow option given your needs.

It’ll give you the LSD in the rear, over 1,500 lbs payload for your overland gear, best tow capacity if needed, 4.10 gearing, and a few more goodies.

The lift you go with will depend entirely on your budget. Clayton seems to be the go-to for a lot of folks but it’s pricey. People also have high praise for the Mopar lift (cheaper than Clayton), but I have no idea how well it does all loaded up.

I’m also bias and own a Sport S w/ Max Tow 😁
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Snake Eyes

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Go drive a few different trims, but I would get a Sport S with the Max Tow option given your needs.

It’ll give you the LSD in the rear, over 1,500 lbs payload for your overland gear, best tow capacity if needed, 4.10 gearing, and a few more goodies.

The lift you go with will depend entirely on your budget. Clayton seems to be the go-to for a lot of folks but it’s pricey. People also have high praise for the Mopar lift (cheaper than Clayton), but I have no idea how well it does all loaded up.

I’m also bias and own a Sport S w/ Max Tow 😁
second that.
 

Rahkmalla

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For me it came down to really wanting 35s. So that limited me to maxtoe, rubi, or jave. But also it had to be a stick, so no maxtoe. Between the rubi and jave, I preferred the jave's on road manners more and have no intention of rock crawling.

Also depends how much equipment you want. A maxtoe with 8.4 and tech is only about 4k shy of a similarly equipped rubi/jave anyway. Sports start much cheaper but once you load em up they aren't priced that far apart.
 

Free2roam

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Didn't need much more than the Sport S. I held out for the Ecodiesel. Yeah yeah I know. They have fuel pump issues. All vechicles do in some sorts or others. I've driven both. Wouldn't trade it.for nothing else.
Sounds like a Sport S is in your future.
 

Chestnut

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I got an overland for DD. I liked the slightly softer suspension vs the Sport. I loaded mine with a good portion of the luxury features, leather, heated seats, premium audio. I drive it 26 miles every day and put 18,000 on in 10 months. I don't tow anything more than my 3,500 lb utility trailer. I'm not fond of the low payload (1,020 lbs) but that's what the utility trailer is for. I use the bed most often for plywood.

Get a headliner (mopar, hotheads, or diy). It doesn't make a huge difference but it does help some.
 

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Jcmonty

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I was in this boat and went with a Rubicon Diesel. The downsides are the payload is limited, potential issues with diesel (knock on wood, none yet), and cost. The power, mpgs and ride have been great. Plus the out of box off road capability is awesome. So far haven’t done anything more than what I would consider “moderate” and haven’t needed the lockers, but I do foresee of scenarios where they will come in handy. The front sway disconnect is super nice to have however.

I have a camper pop up on order and plan on a lightweight build out to try and keep within the limits. I most likely will do a very mild 2” lift with 35s at some point along with some better shocks after adding weight, but it’s not really needed right now
 

Trailman

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Put me in camp “get a max tow sport,” and you can trust me since I have a Rubicon :p.

Seriously my 2020 is two years old and I only have 17,000 miles on it. It’s my “daily driver” but only in the sense that I go to the grocery store a mile away in a town two miles long. Everything else is off road or road trip.

Youre better off saving the money if you won’t use the lockers or electronic sway bar disconnect. Put that in to a lift and a rack.

(But PS I love mine.)
 

India-ThreeZeroThree

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Im my opinion trim levels sell you stuff you don’t need. Average price differences between sport and rubi is $16k. Both vehicles share same frame, axle, body, engine and trans . So many rubi and Mojave take off for sale I got to wonder if they are worth it. You can almost turn a sport into a gladiator for like for $3k to $5k on the availability of new take off parts. Heck I have a set of 245s for sale $650 5 tires Someone will need a set of 245’s if not for a Jeep something else
 

DavidBT

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I went with sport s max tow because we bought a travel trailer with a gvwr of 5,500lbs, and it weighs all of that. Just did a 2,000 mile round trip to Komiefornia and it performed awesome. I've had it out on some trails and was very impressed with what it can do with just the stock A/T's. I think it would make a great overlander.
 

The Duck of Earl

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If ordering and considering Max Tow, Freedom trim might be a good option for you. It includes some good options in a value package, including some stuff you can't otherwise option on a Sport S like steel bumpers. This is how I am leaning (unless tempted to go Mojave for other reasons...) and would be the practical choice for me (as far as ordering a Gladiator counts as the practical choice at all).
 

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Please stop telling people you need or have to have 4.10s or more to run 35s. Absolutely do not. Went from a Sport S 3.73 with Mopar lift and 35s to my Mojave with 35s. Could tell zero difference other than a small drop in gas mileage. Auto trans in both and noticed no difference there either. I thought I "might" see 8th gear a little more often. Didn't happen. Basic overlanding doesn't call for it either. Limited slip? Yes, pay for this option.
 

AverageOverlander

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Please stop telling people you need or have to have 4.10s or more to run 35s. Absolutely do not. Went from a Sport S 3.73 with Mopar lift and 35s to my Mojave with 35s. Could tell zero difference other than a small drop in gas mileage. Auto trans in both and noticed no difference there either. I thought I "might" see 8th gear a little more often. Didn't happen. Basic overlanding doesn't call for it either. Limited slip? Yes, pay for this option.
I’ve also been told by multiple off-road shops that re-gearing a 3.73 to run 35’s is completely unnecessary and 99% of people wouldn’t do it. I was quite surprised to hear that given that this forum seems to be full of people suggesting to re-gear a 3.73 for anything >33”.
I don’t know who’s correct haha, but given my Overland with the 3.73 still feels stock with new 33” AT tires, I really doubt 35” is going to throw it into “re-gear” territory.
 

Barnaby’sdad

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I’ve also been told by multiple off-road shops that re-gearing a 3.73 to run 35’s is completely unnecessary and 99% of people wouldn’t do it. I was quite surprised to hear that given that this forum seems to be full of people suggesting to re-gear a 3.73 for anything >33”.
I don’t know who’s correct haha, but given my Overland with the 3.73 still feels stock with new 33” AT tires, I really doubt 35” is going to throw it into “re-gear” territory.
That‘s the thing…more often than not…you don’t NEED to regear.

It’s an individeal choice as far as what you can stomach drivability wise. When people are saying “you need to regear,” what they most likely mean is “you’re probably going to want to regear.”
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