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Why is Overland the only model to have 18's?

Lives The Dream

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Actually there's very little difference between the Overland stock tires and the Rubicon stock tires. The SPECS for the 18" overland tire is 32.2"
The spec for the 17" RUBICON A/T is - wait for it - NOT 33" but 32.8"
That's barely over 1/2" diameter difference! .6"
The diameter difference is what? Maybe 1.3" or so if that? A touch over an inche and a quarter. There's a lot of inches in a mile.
So frankly I'd not be too bothered by having to use a Rubicon tire as a spare - roads are never 100% perfectly straight so normaly driving will move the LSD anyway - it's a BIG difference when they lock and you have troubles. They slip easily when there's such a VERY TINY difference as 1 or 2".
IF you saw how they work inside - it takes more difference in torque between sides to apply more pressure to the mechanism. A typical LSD under no real torque difference can be broken free pretty easily.
If we are talking 1" or 2" difference side to side, I'd not be the slightest concerned, especially with a SPARE and a couple days driving. The rotational differences will be all but nil - you have more differences on interstate exists and country roads by a long shot.

I'll have to check the correct diameter of the spare, but I bet it's not much different in the end - use charts at Tirerack and similar sites, they have the manufacturer's specs.
Well I did ask if real world diameters are much different, but iā€™m not sure what the comparison of a rubicon tire and a overland tire is for, Iā€™m just looking at what came stock on an overland, if youā€™re using a rubicon tire thatā€™s fine you chose to do it, but the factory chose the stock tires. Regarding slippage on the road though, isnā€™t this why you get bind in 4H in dry roads, because the part time system needs slippage, and on dry roads all four tires are turning at the same speed without slippage. With 2 different tire sizes on dry roads means 2 different wheel rpms without slippage, correct? Very short distances you are ok, but going longer or if you have to use 4H, there will be wear, and as itā€™s a regular tire and not donut Iā€™m sure some people will drive hundreds to thousands of miles before repair/replacement. I donā€™t no what it is where you live but people around here think nothing of driving on multiple donut tires at the same time for months and at 80 mph+. Jeep couldnā€™t assume someone wouldnā€™t do the same on their overland ā€˜s spare tire.
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ShadowsPapa

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Well I did ask if real world diameters are much different, but iā€™m not sure what the comparison of a rubicon tire and a overland tire is for, Iā€™m just looking at what came stock on an overland, if youā€™re using a rubicon tire thatā€™s fine you chose to do it, but the factory chose the stock tires. Regarding slippage on the road though, isnā€™t this why you get bind in 4H in dry roads, because the part time system needs slippage, and on dry roads all four tires are turning at the same speed without slippage. With 2 different tire sizes on dry roads means 2 different wheel rpms without slippage, correct? Very short distances you are ok, but going longer or if you have to use 4H, there will be wear, and as itā€™s a regular tire and not donut Iā€™m sure some people will drive hundreds to thousands of miles before repair/replacement. I donā€™t no what it is where you live but people around here think nothing of driving on multiple donut tires at the same time for months and at 80 mph+. Jeep couldnā€™t assume someone wouldnā€™t do the same on their overland ā€˜s spare tire.
No, the transfer case LOCKS the front and rear driveshafts unless it's a FULL TIME transfer case.
The limited slip differential is just that - limited slip, not no slip. There's slippage during normal driving with any differential and even matched tires. Want proof - put chalk marks on your tire and leave your driveway and go a few feet and see if they still line up. Mark again, drive down the block and see how far off they are. Similar happens with tires only 1" different in diameter.
I compared the Overland and Rubicon tires because it's similar to the Overland tires and OVerland spare - hardly any difference at all.
That spare ain't gonna impact your trucks LSD at all - you turning the corner to get to the store makes it slip dozens of times more than any 1" will on a spare being a slightly different size.

The Overland spare is 245/75R17
It is 31.5" in diameter compared to the 32.2" of the tires on the truck. That's .7" difference
The circumference is 99 compared to about 101 on the truck. That's 2" difference.
Stop worrying about it.
LSD or any differential won't be harmed by that as there are normal tire differences anyway, unless you have exact same wear, exact same inflation and drive only in a perfectly straight line. Any interstate exit, any parking lot, any turn at all changes the relative wheel motions.
And NO, a transfer case is 100% different in the JT - the drive shafts are LOCKED together, NO SLIP ALLOWED.
The LSD DOES SLIP NORMALLY, it's not locked solid - when the rotational differences are high, then it applies MORE pressure and gets tighter, but just driving, no. Don't sweat it!
I've owned cars with limited slip and trucks with limited slip since I was 14 back in the eaqrly 1970s - if anyone were to have issues, I'd know about it.

With 2 different tire sizes on dry roads means 2 different wheel rpms without slippage, correct?
In short, NO. They DO slip, normally, they are made to. I can lift one wheel of my car with limited slip and take a bar on the raised wheel, the other on the floor of my shop, and I can turn that other wheel. Not by hand, but when I hit about 45 foot/pounds, it turns and it does zero harm.
Could I spin it fast while the other is on the floor? NO, because the BIG difference in speed is what lockes things. It's all spring pressure when driving normally - of course these Dana differentials have different systems but still the same concept and principal of operation. They allow and accept MINOR differences, but tend to prevent major differences.
Would I run a 32" tire on one side and a 27" tall compact spare on the other? No
Would i run a 32.2 on one side and a 31.5 on the other (the spare) heck yes, and not worry a bit.
But would I get STUPID and ignore the owner manual and other warnings about long-term driving for hundreds of miles for weeks at 80? No - for one thing, 80 is 10 over and I'd get a ticket, plus it's STUPID, just plain stupid. Anyone who does that - well, if they fry something then maybe they'll finally stop being stupid. But likely not as anyone who does that is simply not able to learn, they aren't teachable.
I'm a mechanic who has studied drivetrains and rebuilt differentials, including limited slip (just not the 2020 Dana system) and it's not a problem to run a couple inches different in CIRCUMFERENCE. And be careful - different web sites screw up the specs on these tires, I use only the factory specs, not third party unless they are quoting the tire maker specs number for number.
And different online calculators can be laughable how they handle circumference calculations. I found a difference of several inches between two of them!!
 
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Dale Vinson

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I have a Sport S with the Altitude package. Came with 18ā€ wheels.
 

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colindo

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Overland to me is the perfect platform. More so than Rubicon, here's why.

On the visual side, it looks nicer inside than the Rubicon and Sport, and on the outside you can paint match fenders and roof. Some like the black fenders and roof, but I think the paint matching looks significantly better.

On the mechanical side. So the Rubicon has 17" wheels. But they're 7.5 wide. I do have them on my Overland right now bc were cheapest as a takeoff, but for more serious offroading you're going to want wider wheels. So you get the Rubicon with 17s and then... take them off.

The gearing on the Rubicon is 4.10 which is better for bigger tires than the 3.73 but still not ideal for bigger tires. If you wanna do 35s long term 4.56 is better or 4.88 for 37s. So you buy the Rubicon and get 4.10 gears... to take them out.

Then there's the e-locker vs air locker debate. Air lockers have a slight mechanical advantage on how it engages, probably irrelevant, but if you're stuck on that obstacle and engage the elocker it takes tire rotation to engage, air locker does not. The e-lockers on Rubicons have been failing also. So I give advantage air locker.

You get a taller initial height on the Rubicon, but any lift will have you... say it with me... take them off.

My Overland was $9k less than the Rubicon offerings. That $9k buys a LOT of the stuff you'd be taking off the Rubicon. Only buy a Rubicon if you're not going to tinker, otherwise it's a waste imo.
I think the perfect platform is in the eye of the purchaser, but I agree with what you are saying.

I bought an Overland because it had all the features that I wanted and didn't have the things I wouldn't use. Living in flat Houston area I won't use the sway bar disconnects often, but if I want to upgrade I can get the JKS or other manually operated ones. I have done some modifications and plan to do more so why pay for much of the items that will be taken off anyway as you mentioned.

If I have nits to pick with the Overland it is the following:
options for other running boards or steps. Maybe they do now but I'd prefer drop down steps/rails as opposed to the running boards. I still have mine but that's the next thing I am changing
Max Tow package availability. I think Jeep missed an opportunity here.


I am very happy with my purchase and wouldn't do it differently with what is available. I still get a lot of compliments on the truck everywhere I go.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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If I have nits to pick with the Overland it is the following:
options for other running boards or steps. Maybe they do now but I'd prefer drop down steps/rails as opposed to the running boards. I still have mine but that's the next thing I am changing
Max Tow package availability. I think Jeep missed an opportunity here.
People keep over-simplifying that max tow thing as if it's simply a package.
The Overland would generally be too heavy, and the target audience of the Overland not likely to tow over 6,000 pounds.
If you want the ride of the Overland, you can't have max tow.
You'd need to go with smaller tires than the Overland comes with stock to have the complete tow abilitt of the max tow. Note it's combined with SMALLER tires AND a deeper differential ratio.
The sport is aptly named and the perfect candidate for those springs and other items that make it "max tow".
You would be adding a deeper ratio, wider axles, and smaller tires to get the max tow, and need to trim some weight from the Overland, and add the max tow fenders. and shorter, progressive springs. Suddenly it's no longer an Overland. (max tow springs drop an Overland just a little bit in height in the rear - I know......)
 

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Max Tow package availability. I think Jeep missed an opportunity here.
This 100%. If a Max Tow Overland was available, that would be a no-brainer for me.
 

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This 100%. If a Max Tow Overland was available, that would be a no-brainer for me.
But it could not be an overland. You'd lose the ride, the tire diameter, the look, the width, the fenders and have to lose some weight (not you personally, the truck)
Might as well outfit a Sport that has max tow and add the options to it. Today there's not a lot of difference option-wise - you can get stuff with the sport now you could not get when I ordered.
 

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If I have nits to pick with the Overland it is the following:

Max Tow package availability. I think Jeep missed an opportunity here.
I think you have to look at the max tow as a package like high altitude or north Edition.... every trim cannot be max tow because they all would be at a lower max... but you should be able to get the 4.10 gears and wider axle on all trims so you can get the highest tow rating possible.
 

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I think you have to look at the max tow as a package like high altitude or north Edition.... every trim cannot be max tow because they all would be at a lower max... but you should be able to get the 4.10 gears and wider axle on all trims so you can get the highest tow rating possible.
This is a better way to put into words what I meant by Max Tow. Maybe it doesn't give you the 7650 lbs, but maximizes the towing capability at the selected trim level
 

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ShadowsPapa

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This is a better way to put into words what I meant by Max Tow. Maybe it doesn't give you the 7650 lbs, but maximizes the towing capability at the selected trim level
YES. You and Gatorized are more where I was thinking about it with those posts -
Not "max tow" but be able to choose an option that could give the Overland more than 6,000 pounds.
Consider the Grand Cherokee - 6200 pounds with the 3.6 Really? That's 200 more than a TRUCK - the Overland.
Add the V8 to the GC and you get a whopping 7200 pounds! That's 1200 more.
My Silverado had a gear similar to the Overland, and if you made NO OTHER CHANGES to the truck at all, simply a deeper gear ratio, it bumped the tow rating up by a LOT over what I had. ONLY the gear change. No different engine, no different anything else.

I'd be satisfied if they would have allowed the 4.10 option and get me into about 6500 pounds and 1200-1400 payload.
Not that I dislike my truck, but I'll say it again - 3.73 sucks for towing in our hills.
 
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Does anyone know why the Overland is the only model to have 18's?
I bought the 2020 Overland with the 18ā€™s. It has the Bridgestone Dueler H/T 255 70 R18 - smooth tread and not aggressive profile. The AT tread has a lot of ā€œsipesā€ and pick up a lot of small stones. Love the granite crystal rims - will eventually move to a more aggressive tread/tire profile, like the Goodyear ā€œFierceā€ or wrangler duratrack, but will likely stay with the stock tire size. Iā€™m getting 22.8 mpg at 5,000 miles.
 

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I think you have to look at the max tow as a package like high altitude or north Edition.... every trim cannot be max tow because they all would be at a lower max... but you should be able to get the 4.10 gears and wider axle on all trims so you can get the highest tow rating possible.
Good point. Yes, I meant the ability to get the 4.10s and the wider axles.
 

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If you donā€™t want 18ā€ wheels change it , all Gladiators have a 10mm thicker axle tube & 32 spline axle shafts, rubi & Max Toad gets 1 1/2ā€ wider axles & 4.11 gears āš™. I wanted color matching fender, 8.4 navigation premium stereo, LED lights, and leather, Rubicon was the only one offering that other than Overland when i bought. So that is what I bought. There are plenty of things to choose for everyone with different needs. My Gladiator has every suspension part replaced, 37ā€™s & 5.13ā€™s limited slip rear works for now. It rides better all around driving. And still tows great. 5,000# camper. Love the one youā€™re with lol.

F7FF35C1-F4CA-4DFF-BDE5-1D3A06EBF1E2.jpeg
 

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If you donā€™t want 18ā€ wheels change it , all Gladiators have a 10mm thicker axle tube & 32 spline axle shafts, rubi & Max Toad gets 1 1/2ā€ wider axles & 4.11 gears āš™. I wanted color matching fender, 8.4 navigation premium stereo, LED lights, and leather, Rubicon was the only one offering that other than Overland when i bought. So that is what I bought. There are plenty of things to choose for everyone with different needs. My Gladiator has every suspension part replaced, 37ā€™s & 5.13ā€™s limited slip rear works for now. It rides better all around driving. And still tows great. 5,000# camper. Love the one youā€™re with lol.

Jeep Gladiator Why is Overland the only model to have 18's? F7FF35C1-F4CA-4DFF-BDE5-1D3A06EBF1E2
I love your Jeep.

Mine is still a work in progress.
I love the Overland wheels, the tires are fine for good weather and summer and highway and putzing around. I have Rubicon take-offs for winter and bad sh.....

Jeep Gladiator Why is Overland the only model to have 18's? 20201015_165944_HDR
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