Manual Transmission Club

[guntrust]

In the old days, it could take a full second or two to start the engine, then the electronics would stabilize, then you'd keep the engine on until you were done driving.

Now, the government essentially forces the use of engine start/stop, which needs a lightweight flywheel so the engine can restart quickly without overloading the starter, and the ESS battery to keep the electronics stable during restart. And it could be 10-20 times more restarts than in the older days, depending on where you are driving.

If you get a heavier flywheel, it's probably a good idea to turn off ESS.

Another unintended consequence from the ecotards. I never use ESS anyway; fortunately, the manual allows me to avoid it just by holding the clutch in rather than tasering it to death.

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[NachoRuby]

Another unintended consequence from the ecotards. I never use ESS anyway; fortunately, the manual allows me to avoid it just by holding the clutch in rather than tasering it to death.

I don't know if that's fully the reason for lightweight flywheels. My 2019 VW had a lightweight flywheel, and it didn't have ess.

 

[Hootbro]

I don't know if that's fully the reason for lightweight flywheels. My 2019 VW had a lightweight flywheel, and it didn't have ess.

Even before ESS started to become mainstream, the trend to lighter flywheels was already happening as it is less horsepower restrictive and all the other cascading things like MPG increases and so forth.

 

[Darrin NC]

Have a 21 MT Willys
Want new tires, can a stock 6 sp with 3.73 handle a 35 or should I stick with a 33?
Has 32 Mud Terr now
Also want to level it...Can 35 fit with 2 1/2 level kit?
Thanks

 

[AustinL911]

Have a 21 MT Willys
Want new tires, can a stock 6 sp with 3.73 handle a 35 or should I stick with a 33?
Has 32 Mud Terr now
Also want to level it...Can 35 fit with 2 1/2 level kit?
Thanks

You're going to hate it without gears. I have 4.10s with the MT and 35s and it sucks. Hardly use 5th at all and pretty much never use 6th. Personal plan is to go to 4.88s and the CF clutch ASAP.

 

[redriderjf87]

Have a 21 MT Willys
Want new tires, can a stock 6 sp with 3.73 handle a 35 or should I stick with a 33?
Has 32 Mud Terr now
Also want to level it...Can 35 fit with 2 1/2 level kit?
Thanks

Personally, I'd regear it for the tires you want before you do the tires (you will need to regear 100%). Using 6th would be borderline even with 4.10's on the stock 32's (in my experience using 5th on the highway).

There are a million gear threads so I won't delve into, other than to briefly say I'm going to be going 35s and will probably do 4.88 to keep 6th actually usable.

 

[Bbannongmu]

In the old days, it could take a full second or two to start the engine, then the electronics would stabilize, then you'd keep the engine on until you were done driving.

Now, the government essentially forces the use of engine start/stop, which needs a lightweight flywheel so the engine can restart quickly without overloading the starter, and the ESS battery to keep the electronics stable during restart. And it could be 10-20 times more restarts than in the older days, depending on where you are driving.

If you get a heavier flywheel, it's probably a good idea to turn off ESS.

Yes. I have a Tazer and turned off A.S.S. (I prefer this acronym- Auto Start Stop - more apt) permanently.

 

[HenrytheDestroyer]

got Centerforce upgraded hydraulics delivered. Going to get an installer to put them in (no time and its a PIA to bleed a clutch). I'll report back after install

Did this report ever come back?

I’m 100% upgrading the clutch and gears, but I still haven’t understood the purpose of the hydraulics. Just ignorant on the topic.

thanks.

 

[MoparDave]

Did this report ever come back?

I’m 100% upgrading the clutch and gears, but I still haven’t understood the purpose of the hydraulics. Just ignorant on the topic.

thanks.

 

[Bbannongmu]

Loving it. Highly recommend!!!

 

[HenrytheDestroyer]

Loving it. Highly recommend!!!

Did it actually change anything now that you’ve driven it for a while ?

also, since you’ve already done all these mods, is there anything else you’d recommend to beef up the m/t? Not sure what else to look at to make it where it should have been from the factory.

fianlly, did you disable ESS/ASS? I was reading about heavier flywheels causing problems for that system. Have you noticed one way or another? Edit: sorry it’s been a long Xmas I didn’t realize it was literally the post above me. Ignore this one.

 

[Bbannongmu]

Did it actually change anything now that you’ve driven it for a while ?

also, since you’ve already done all these mods, is there anything else you’d recommend to beef up the m/t? Not sure what else to look at to make it where it should have been from the factory.

fianlly, did you disable ESS/ASS? I was reading about heavier flywheels causing problems for that system. Have you noticed one way or another? Edit: sorry it’s been a long Xmas I didn’t realize it was literally the post above me. Ignore this one.

The clutch feel and performance is way better. The biggest difference is that u can back a trailer up without smelling the clutch. The factory clutch would smoke/smell when backing - not riding the clutch. I can go from a stoplight or back up with no /minimal throttle. It also crawls offroad so much better.
I have a taser and leave A.S.S. Off since I hate it. No idea if it would be worse with the heavier flywheel but I think it terrible stock. Highly recommend this - pricey but you use your clutch on every single drive.

 

[cj8scrambler]

The clutch feel and performance is way better. The biggest difference is that u can back a trailer up without smelling the clutch. The factory clutch would smoke/smell when backing - not riding the clutch. I can go from a stoplight or back up with no /minimal throttle. It also crawls offroad so much better.
I have a taser and leave A.S.S. Off since I hate it. No idea if it would be worse with the heavier flywheel but I think it terrible stock. Highly recommend this - pricey but you use your clutch on every single drive.

I have smoked the clutch twice and both times were under some load in reverse. Once I was stuck in mud, the other was backing up a trailer. Why is reverse so hard on the clutch on the JT?

 

[Bbannongmu]

I have smoked the clutch twice and both times were under some load in reverse. Once I was stuck in mud, the other was backing up a trailer. Why is reverse so hard on the clutch on the JT?

Not sure but that’s a common complaint. No issue with the Centerforce clutch. It just hooks up and goes. No smell, no issues.

 

[HenrytheDestroyer]

Not sure but that’s a common complaint. No issue with the Centerforce clutch. It just hooks up and goes. No smell, no issues.

So I looked into service for a dual friction clutch and regear into 4.56 at some local shops. I don’t have the tools or know-how to handle this type of work myself. I was quoted between $4500-5500 for both services at the same time across the shops, which is a little rich for my wallet right now post Xmas.

is there a better bang for the buck between regearing or a new clutch? I suppose my stock 3.73 is fine, just don’t see 6th essentially ever at this point. (392 wrangler takeoffs are wheels now, maybe 35” when they wear out at most). I’m going to be doing more towing than Expected and Already got my first clutch overheat warning during a trailer back-up event.

is a clutch and regear something done more often separately or usually together? Would I be saving time or effort doing them together otherwise ?

I know I quoted you, but obviously asking the whole M/T community here.

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