What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[Bacstar]

TrailFX Tube fenders front only. I was having my Clayton overland+ suspension bolts checked for tightness after the break-in period. I saw these hanging on the wall. Almost didn't get them when it dawned on us that we needed new liners, but we broke out the dremel and did some modding.

Had the Overland stock fenders with the new lift; now I have more clearance for flexing. Eventually, I'll be going to 37"s; just waiting to wear these tires out.

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[DFlannery31]

Had AVO install an Alu-Cab Contour Canopy. Also installed some maxtrax on the inside using a GP Factor latch system.

 

[Zero_Accel]

Went and started the prep work for my snorkel install since I have conflicting mods, so I had to move my Voswitch control box from the passenger fender to the cowl piece just above the battery since I had my ARB compressor on the other side.

Turned out pretty good, just hope my fancy electrons don't leak!

Old spot for reference:

More pics for reference, not too worried about the fuse box access while driving as I left the wires really long, and it would be blocked by the snorkel tub anyways, so I'll keep a cheap 10mm ratchet with an extension in the truck. Tried to make it look as nice as possible.

Might put a sticker on the top of the box to make it look nicer.

 

[Von1992]

Swapped out my Sting Gray grille with the Satin Black grille. Wasn’t too hard to swap over the trail cam honeycomb mesh.

 

[HooliganActual]

Well...I was a little bored, had some scrap plywood, and needed a temporary storage "system" while I'm waiting for my OverlandKitchen to be built, so....

Let the fun begin

Essentially, I need a big drawer for one half of the bed. It can't be the full length of the bed because my water tank, etc. resides at the front of the bed. Here's the rough box, checking dimensions, clearances, etc. Still need to address the front and back faces in this shot, which are taller than the rest of the box and a bit wavy...lol.

But plywood is heavy. Time to reduce some weight with some "speed holes"...LOL Only large items like firewood, stove, RTT ladder, etc. are going in this; so the holes won't be a problem. Ultimately, I took about 5 lbs out of the unit. It's now about 25 lbs.

Made a little slide rail system with some scrap aluminum angle that came off of a different project. It's not visible in the shot but the rails are temporarily affixed to the platform that the kitchen will be mounted on (which is what the fridge is sitting on in the pic).

The bottom of the wooden drawer/box barely slides against the aluminum rails. Time to lower the coefficient of friction with some UHMW strips (UHMW is awesome stuff BTW!!!)

And now my random junk stays put...at least until my kitchen is installed and I decided what my real storage system will be...

Note: the kitchen will actually sit where you currently see the fridge and the fridge will be inside of it, like this:

 

[mx5red]

Had AVO install an Alu-Cab Contour Canopy. Also installed some maxtrax on the inside using a GP Factor latch system.

Holy $hit that pricetag! Look nice, though.

 

[mx5red]

Went and started the prep work for my snorkel install since I have conflicting mods, so I had to move my Voswitch control box from the passenger fender to the cowl piece just above the battery since I had my ARB compressor on the other side.

Turned out pretty good, just hope my fancy electrons don't leak!

Old spot for reference:

More pics for reference, not too worried about the fuse box access while driving as I left the wires really long, and it would be blocked by the snorkel tub anyways, so I'll keep a cheap 10mm ratchet with an extension in the truck. Tried to make it look as nice as possible.

Might put a sticker on the top of the box to make it look nicer.

So many problems with this:

1.) Of course the electrons will leak out, the box is upside down now.
2.) As a rule, you will never be able to find the 10mm when you need it.

Seriously, looks like a good fix. Is there clearance there for the box or does it hit the hood liner?

 

[NonHyphenated American]

Finally picked my final configuration of lights and what controls them. I had a six switch Voswitch JL300 and upgraded to an eight switch Voswitch JL800 where the control panel mounts to the grab handle making it a ton easier to access. From top to bottom 1-Diode Dynamic SS3 white sport driving lights, 2-Diode Dynamics SS3 amber pro driving light, 3-Sasquatch which consists of Auxbeam spot and flood lights on the cowl, 4-Auxbeam 15" light bar, 5-VisionX rear bumper lights, 6-500amp winch isolator. 7 will be a Midland MXT275 GMRS radio and 8 will be a President Bill II CB radio. Im planning some road trips next year and want the radios for emergencies and entertainment. Had to take a pic of the lighs during the day because they are so bright. I have yellow LaminX lense covers on the cowl lights to give them more use in foggy and dusty conditions. I had a 6 inch Diode Dynamics light bar between the two driving lights. Looked kind of goofy with the bigger light bar above it. The single SS3 pro is brigher than the light bar it replaced.

 

[Zero_Accel]

So many problems with this:

1.) Of course the electrons will leak out, the box is upside down now.
2.) As a rule, you will never be able to find the 10mm when you need it.

Seriously, looks like a good fix. Is there clearance there for the box or does it hit the hood liner?

So funny thing about that, I originally flipped the bracket itself upside down so that it would sit lower and tried to mount the switch box on top so that it was accessible, BUT it didn't clear the liner at all, hood barely closed and was crushing the liner in the process. So I ended up flipping the whole assembly to the way it is in the pics and I got just enough clearance that it doesn't hit the liner. If I'm feeling creative, I can print up a bracket on the 3D printer to brace it against the fuse box cover so that it has a bit more support, although I think the way I have it shouldn't cause any problems.

 

[mx5red]

So funny thing about that, I originally flipped the bracket itself upside down so that it would sit lower and tried to mount the switch box on top so that it was accessible, BUT it didn't clear the liner at all, hood barely closed and was crushing the liner in the process. So I ended up flipping the whole assembly to the way it is in the pics and I got just enough clearance that it doesn't hit the liner. If I'm feeling creative, I can print up a bracket on the 3D printer to brace it against the fuse box cover so that it has a bit more support, although I think the way I have it shouldn't cause any problems.

Hey man, if it works go with it! Actually I think not many people would’ve tried it upside down so was good outside the box thinking ?

 

[Newlife]

Installed the gravity pro 6 light bar. Told my wife 45-1h tops. 4 hours later and still looks like shit. Cannot for the life of me figure out what I’m doing wrong that I can’t hide the wire under the brackets.

 

[Sealteem1]

Almost completed.

 

[antwon412]

Almost completed.

well……it’s good you like it……

 

[Sealteem1]

well……it’s good you like it……

It's good you like yours. ?

 

[Maximusdafarmer]

Got my onboard air system from Innovative AT mounted up. I was a little worried about clearance with the armorlite but it worked no problem as the brackets slid under the flooring. Someone with more patience probably could have cut slits in the flooring to retain more of it, I just cut out the small section where the compressor sits.

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