Raider 2's weight conscious daily driver/ weekender build

[Raider2]

Hello all,

First post and first time jeep owner, looking forward to having some adventures. I'm using this as a place to document my modifications and any adventures I have along the way. This is my daily driver and so I'm not planning anything crazy with this build, but I do want to get out and do Jeep things. I do however want to take a bit of a different approach than most by paying close attention to added weight and payload. From the factory my jeep has a stickered payload of 1154 lbs. I plan on weighing or estimating the weight of all the mods I do.

Mods so far:
Full Xpel Ultimate PPF wrap
Xpel front window tint
Spray in Rhino liner
Offroam cell phone holder

Payload math:
1154
- 360lbs (my family)
-10 lbs (PPF/window tint)
-50 lbs (rhino liner)
=
734lbs remaining payload

I'm not terribly worried about hitting the max, but want to use this more as a source of information for those that care about this kind of stuff.

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[chorky]

Doing the math is always goood. The truth is almost everybody with even a mild build is over GVW for a weekend trip.

Quick example of my JTR with a payload capacity of approx 950 pounds as weighed at a cat scale without my body weight
Me - 170 (need to loose 15 pounds)
canopy - 175 (about average)
RTT - 175 (about average)
15 gal water - 124.5
Engle fridge and slide - 90
Extra Genesis battery - 50
Clothes and personal items - 50
Food - 25

Total - 809.5

And that does not include recovery gear or tools or compressor or added weights from skid plates and armor - and is for one person. I cant imagine what folks with kids or the alu cab are at. Probably well over GAWR

 

[jcarbs]

When I started looking at changing wheels and tires, I was extremely weight conscious. There were tire and wheel combos that started adding up quickly. As far as I'm concerned it's not a bad thing to be aware of. After reading the OP's post, I went back and started adding the things I've done, including the wheels and tires. It turned out to be a very interesting exercise.

 

[JT1]

When I started looking at changing wheels and tires, I was extremely weight conscious. There were tire and wheel combos that started adding up quickly. As far as I'm concerned it's not a bad thing to be aware of. After reading the OP's post, I went back and started adding the things I've done, including the wheels and tires. It turned out to be a very interesting exercise.

Wheels and tires shouldn't affect payload as they aren't "sprung" weight.. anything above that will, though.

 

[Raider2]

Wheels and tires shouldn't affect payload as they aren't "sprung" weight.. anything above that will, though.

I'm not an expert by any means but I think that what you said is a common misconception. Payload is typically calculated by subtracting the curb weight (total weight of vehicle topped off on fluids, but no passengers) from the GVWR (Stated value in the door sticker, which I believe is 6,250 lbs). By putting on heavier wheels and tires you are still increasing the curb weight regardless if it is sprung or unsprung.

If I'm wrong somebody please chime in.

 

[JT1]

I'm not an expert by any means but I think that what you said is a common misconception. Payload is typically calculated by subtracting the curb weight (total weight of vehicle topped off on fluids, but no passengers) from the GVWR (Stated value in the door sticker, which I believe is 6,250 lbs). By putting on heavier wheels and tires you are still increasing the curb weight regardless if it is sprung or unsprung.

If I'm wrong somebody please chime in.

Raider2, I think you're right using the way they figure payload ratings. My JT has a GVWR of 5800 pounds and 1100 payload.. so the math is curb weight+payload=5800. Although unsprung weight only affects acceleration, shock damping and braking, using their formula, wheels and tires affect your payload.

 

[jcarbs]

I'm not an expert by any means but I think that what you said is a common misconception. Payload is typically calculated by subtracting the curb weight (total weight of vehicle topped off on fluids, but no passengers) from the GVWR (Stated value in the door sticker, which I believe is 6,250 lbs). By putting on heavier wheels and tires you are still increasing the curb weight regardless if it is sprung or unsprung.

If I'm wrong somebody please chime in.

I was told to be aware of the weight of your tires and wheels. Rather be cautious than make a mistake later on.

 

[chorky]

When I started looking at changing wheels and tires, I was extremely weight conscious. There were tire and wheel combos that started adding up quickly. As far as I'm concerned it's not a bad thing to be aware of. After reading the OP's post, I went back and started adding the things I've done, including the wheels and tires. It turned out to be a very interesting exercise.

t.. anyth

From a legal standpoint - sprung weight and unsprung weight both are factors together in determining GVWR. Unsprung weight has different impacts on a vehicle's handling characteristics than sprung weight. For purposes of determining what spring rate one needs, and concern of too much weight on the axles, sprung weight is most important. But heavy tires can play a huge role in braking abilities. So it's all important. But IMO when were talking about a 200 pound canopy, 200 pound RTT, and 250 pounds of gear in the bed, then a difference of 10 pounds in a tire isn't as big of an impact.

I would be astonished if anyone with a canopy and RTT and gear is even close to being at or under GVWR to be honest. Based on my own calculations using actual numbers and specs - I just don't see it possible unless you stick with a standard ground tent, and a picnic table, as if it were the 1999.

But I think its great the OP is actually weighing items as well rather than just throwing them on!

 

[Raider2]

Installed 813 Designs cab side molle panel. Sticking with paying attention to added weight, I went with aluminum over steel, I found 2 or 3 vendors that produce these panels in aluminum. 813 is active on this forum, was responsive via email and produces their own rotopax mount so it was a no brainer for me. Shoutout to Jeremy of 813 Designs. Fit and finish are high end.

The math:
Rear panel and mounting hardware = 5lbs
rotopax mount = 1.8 lbs
1.75 gal rotopax container = 3.5 lbs empty
1.75 gal @ 6lbs/gal = 10.5lbs

Total weight added = 20.8lbs
Remaining payload = 713.2lbs

Amazing how this stuff adds up, I figure I saved 10ish lbs. by going aluminum with this.

 

[smlobx]

…..I would be astonished if anyone with a canopy and RTT and gear is even close to being at or under GVWR to be honest. Based on my own calculations using actual numbers and specs - I just don't see it possible unless you stick with a standard ground tent, and a picnic table, as if it were the 1999.

But I think its great the OP is actually weighing items as well rather than just throwing them on!

It definitely can be done. I’m only 10 pounds over gvwr in my fully built Rubicon with an AluCab canopy and Roofnest RTT plus a few other goodies. I removed the rear seats and built a platform.
Like Raider2 is doing you have to weigh everything and choose carefully…

 

[chorky]

It definitely can be done. I’m only 10 pounds over gvwr in my fully built Rubicon with an AluCab canopy and Roofnest RTT plus a few other goodies. I removed the rear seats and built a platform.
Like Raider2 is doing you have to weigh everything and choose carefully…

I am assuming that weight is with a full tank of fuel and without you in it?

Looks like you have a cool storage box next to your fridge there that's nice. I am also partly wondering if the scale I use, even though it's certified, is not accurate - or maybe not accurate for small vehicles since it's designed for tractor trucks and trailers. I weighed my rig the other day with the canopy, rear drivers side seat removed (considering removing the passenger rear also), with canopy, with a small tool box, with the fridge and slide, with the genesis battery system, and just a couple typical always carry items and the total was 5,780. Now that my RTT is on as of yesterday that's going to be 5,950 - without me in it. I still have to add bumper and winch, recovery gear, camping gear, water for camping, fuel for camping, and myself at 170 pounds (should be 155) - I don't see any way to be under. And that is without any armor.

I think part of the issue honestly is the canopy I have is not accurate for weight. The manufacturer specified 175 pounds (on the heavy side I know....but it was available and cheaper than other options). But it felt significantly heavier putting on the jeep with 4 guys than the RTT (also 170 pounds) did yesterday with just 3 people. My stock weight as purchased was 5300 - my weight after canopy, and just a couple things in the bed - maybe 75 pounds worth, was 5780. So I think the canopy was more like 275 pounds which if true and if I knew that before hand I would certainly have NOT purchased it.

 

[Raider2]

Installed a Bestop EZ roll bed cover. I've never had a soft cover before but wanted to try it out due to the cost and weight savings over a hard cover. Install was very easy, and my wife likes it for bonus points! The entire thing weighs 27 lbs. vs the 50+ lbs. for a hard cover.

Payload math:
713.2 lbs.
-27 lbs (entire cover and all hardware)
=686.2 lbs remaining payload

 

[Raider2]

Took advantage of the weather and went over to Uwaharrie to get on some trails. I'm relatively new to offroading and had a lot of fun. I did the wolf's Den trail and then the entire Rocky Mountain Loop/ Slab Pile. It can certainly be done in a stock vehicle like mine. I didn't even need lockers, just put it in 4Low and good to go. Also just a PSA after wheeling like this to do a good PMCS afterwards. Got a screw in my tire that I'll have to plug.

 

[Raider2]

Next mod is the Evo alumilite bumper. I went with aluminum for obvious reasons. I liked this bumper because it retains the factory LED fogs and also the factory hooks which I thought was cool and you rarely see in many bumpers. I also could not find any info on this bumper or any pictures of people running it/ installing it etc. (Am I the first on these forums with this bumper?) The install was complicated to say the least for me, mostly because Evo doesn't have any instructions which would have saved me several hours of trial and error with the bracketry. Additionally, the bumper makes contact with the grill and I had to use about 3/8" of spacers to pull it out so that it wasn't touching. I definitely like the look of this thing and it will look even better with a winch (stay tuned for that).

Payload math:

Removal of factory bumper (minus fogs, wiring harness and hooks) = -25lbs
Removal of factory skid = -17lbs
Winch plate and all the nuts/bolts/brackets = +20lbs
Front bumper = + 17lbs
Front skid = +10lbs
Hoop= +4lbs

Net gain = +9lbs

Remaining payload = 677lbs

 

[Raider2]

Got the fairlead in the mail and slapped it on. Then went camping for the weekend with the family. Did a little swimming and saw a bald eagle which was pretty cool. Didn't snap many pics though.

Fairlead weighs 3.5lbs

Remaining payload = 673.5

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