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Overheating While Towing

ShadowsPapa

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Max tow has different axles, too.

What tire size is that in your profile pic? 35? 37? That size of tires with the 3.73 gears is likely the source of your problem.

There's been someone here (maybe @Gren71 ?) who took a lift off and went back to stock tire size in pursuit of ideal towing behavior.

If you want to keep that tire size, need to re-gear.
Yeah, those tires made the final ratio more akin to lower 3s, not even as "good as" 3.73.
Bigger tires on that ratio is shooting ones self in the foot.

I do have the widetrack hd44 axles under my jeep. They are 35's. I bet that guy that took his lift off drinks bud light as well.
Only if you put them there. But if you did swap axles and now have the 4.10 ratio, the bigger tires negated that and took you backwards back to closer to 3.17 again.
Bigger tires REDUCE towing capacity and make the engine struggle. it's that simple and we've killed that topic a dozen times in other threads. You can't keep your towing capacity if you increase tire size and lift.

I did not but the guy that originally purchased the jeep ordered it with the upgraded axles. he also had the factory 2" lift added as well.
Sorry, there's no such thing as a factory lift and no you can't possibly order a JT with other axles. It's literally impossible to do. You've been fed a line.
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ShadowsPapa

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Unfortunately, I have to agree with you. I just pulled the build sheet and it does not say anything about the upgraded axles.
That's because it's not possible! Can't be done.
If it's an overland, it has the standard narrow axles and 3.73 ratio - period.
You've killed it with those tires.
Heck, I have an overland and I know how they tow and I'd never even consider tires over 33s without a gear swap - ever.

I tow 5,000 pounds pretty easily, no heat troubles but I run stock diameter tires on my gears. I've run 33s but that's as high as I'd ever go on these gears. . Can manually shift or let it automatically shift.
With a used truck, who knows what the PO did to it - and sounds like he has no clue what he did with it based on the claims of wide axles and so on.

An Overland with the tow package has the large fan and alternator.

Unless it's mudded up there's really no issues with the internals of the radiator - no need to flush with these modern coolants - unless - the prior idiot put in the WRONG coolant and it's JELLED UP!
Never use anything but OAT.
Never use HOAT or standard coolant.
Color does NOT matter - in fact, colors are no longer unique to types of coolant. You must read the label and ensure OAT and nothing else. Ignore the color. You can get pink or orange coolant that is HOAT - I know, I have a bottle of it and used it in my car. There's no longer a world standard for coolant colors.
if they put in a pink or orange and assumed - then it could be messy in that system.
 

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We were at grubber a month ago. Hit up Arkansas around the mulberry mountain area a few weeks ago. If you have never been, hit me up. I have quite a few .gpx files for that area as well as the wolf pen area. I will probably end up at Disney at some point over this long holiday weekend.
Trying to make it to hot springs in the fall. If I can combine a trip that my wife enjoys with another chance to get a badge on a decent trail everyone wins.
 
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EOS311

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Yeah, those tires made the final ratio more akin to lower 3s, not even as "good as" 3.73.
Bigger tires on that ratio is shooting ones self in the foot.



Only if you put them there. But if you did swap axles and now have the 4.10 ratio, the bigger tires negated that and took you backwards back to closer to 3.17 again.
Bigger tires REDUCE towing capacity and make the engine struggle. it's that simple and we've killed that topic a dozen times in other threads. You can't keep your towing capacity if you increase tire size and lift.



Sorry, there's no such thing as a factory lift and no you can't possibly order a JT with other axles. It's literally impossible to do. You've been fed a line.

As stated earlier in the thread, I plan on going to a 4:88 gear ratio in the next few weeks. The above mentioned Lift is a Mopar lift and you are correct, it was installed at the dealership, not the factory. I did not clarify that. We also determined that I do not have the wide track axles a little earlier in the thread. We also determined that the guy that that originally owned it was not the brightest bulb in the pack and that I also am an Idiot for believing everything he said. Here is a link to the above mentioned lift.

https://store.mopar.com/oem-parts/m...-fox-shocks-aluminum-body-monotube-77072395ag
 
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That's because it's not possible! Can't be done.
If it's an overland, it has the standard narrow axles and 3.73 ratio - period.
You've killed it with those tires.
Heck, I have an overland and I know how they tow and I'd never even consider tires over 33s without a gear swap - ever.

I tow 5,000 pounds pretty easily, no heat troubles but I run stock diameter tires on my gears. I've run 33s but that's as high as I'd ever go on these gears. . Can manually shift or let it automatically shift.
With a used truck, who knows what the PO did to it - and sounds like he has no clue what he did with it based on the claims of wide axles and so on.

An Overland with the tow package has the large fan and alternator.

Unless it's mudded up there's really no issues with the internals of the radiator - no need to flush with these modern coolants - unless - the prior idiot put in the WRONG coolant and it's JELLED UP!
Never use anything but OAT.
Never use HOAT or standard coolant.
Color does NOT matter - in fact, colors are no longer unique to types of coolant. You must read the label and ensure OAT and nothing else. Ignore the color. You can get pink or orange coolant that is HOAT - I know, I have a bottle of it and used it in my car. There's no longer a world standard for coolant colors.
if they put in a pink or orange and assumed - then it could be messy in that system.

Yes sir, we determined all of this earlier in the thread but I appreciate your input. Someone added a link to flush the radiator but it had nothing to do with flushing a radiator. It talked about the engine cover trapping heat under it and the benefits of removing it. I don't think the engine cover has anything to do with it. Its way under geared and doesn't have the umph to pull its own ass up a hill at the moment. I am fairly confident that the gears will make a tremendous difference. This truck was set up this way when I bought it. The only thing I have done to it is add swaybar disconnects, and I added a Tazer to correct my tire size.
 

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That's because it's not possible! Can't be done.
If it's an overland, it has the standard narrow axles and 3.73 ratio - period.
You've killed it with those tires.
Heck, I have an overland and I know how they tow and I'd never even consider tires over 33s without a gear swap - ever.

I tow 5,000 pounds pretty easily, no heat troubles but I run stock diameter tires on my gears. I've run 33s but that's as high as I'd ever go on these gears. . Can manually shift or let it automatically shift.
With a used truck, who knows what the PO did to it - and sounds like he has no clue what he did with it based on the claims of wide axles and so on.

An Overland with the tow package has the large fan and alternator.

Unless it's mudded up there's really no issues with the internals of the radiator - no need to flush with these modern coolants - unless - the prior idiot put in the WRONG coolant and it's JELLED UP!
Never use anything but OAT.
Never use HOAT or standard coolant.
Color does NOT matter - in fact, colors are no longer unique to types of coolant. You must read the label and ensure OAT and nothing else. Ignore the color. You can get pink or orange coolant that is HOAT - I know, I have a bottle of it and used it in my car. There's no longer a world standard for coolant colors.
if they put in a pink or orange and assumed - then it could be messy in that system.
Its also gets serviced regularly at the dealership as well as by me. I Check all fluids and give every thing a look over before and after every wheeling trip. Minus the differential oil levels. I do that every 6 months and every time I get the axles in water.
 

Casique

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Did you check that? Because every model that the widetrack's come in has 4.10 gears. If you have 3.73 then I would highly doubt you have the wider axles.
Not a true statement. The High Altitude has the wide axles, but comes with the 3.73s! I've the window sticker to prove it...
 
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EOS311

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Not a true statement. The High Altitude has the wide axles, but comes with the 3.73s! I've the window sticker to prove it...
So I've been Told But its not worth it to argue to me. I will just regear and keep on keeping on.
 

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So I've been Told But its not worth it to argue to me. I will just regear and keep on keeping on.
If you're ever near Tulsa, I can show you what 5.13s and 37s do. I still think 4.88s are probably the right answer for you. I will say at turnpike speeds you'll be running basically 25-2600 the entire time.
4.56s will knock ~100-150 rpm off of that.
 

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I'm about to do 5.38's on mine. Once these 37's are done, it'll get 40's :rock:
 

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EOS311

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If you're ever near Tulsa, I can show you what 5.13s and 37s do. I still think 4.88s are probably the right answer for you. I will say at turnpike speeds you'll be running basically 25-2600 the entire time.
4.56s will knock ~100-150 rpm off of that.
That's pretty much what Yukon Told me to run with 35's and I do trust them. I will hit you up next time I am up that way. Might end up at Disney this weekend but the wife is trying to drag me back to Arkansas. She fell in love with all the waterfalls. I will keep you posted.
 
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I'm about to do 5.38's on mine. Once these 37's are done, it'll get 40's :rock:
Better upgrade those axle shafts while you are at it. I have heard 40's are pretty rough on the stock axles. I am looking at options to do away with the two piece passenger side shaft. My xj had that same stupid two piece shaft design. I understand why it is there but that doesn't mean I have to like it. LOL
 

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That's pretty much what Yukon Told me to run with 35's and I do trust them. I will hit you up next time I am up that way. Might end up at Disney this weekend but the wife is trying to drag me back to Arkansas. She fell in love with all the waterfalls. I will keep you posted.
Yukons scare me on these advantek axles.. They aren't what they used to be. I went Dana-Spicer, the $100 difference in price didn't bother me when I was going to spend $2000 anyway.

Hop on the JL forum and ask ChevyMitchell. He re-gears for fun and profit and ask him the brands he likes and dislikes. There are several really good places in OKC that can hook you up when you pull the trigger.
 
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Yukons scare me on these advantek axles.. They aren't what they used to be. I went Dana-Spicer, the $100 difference in price didn't bother me when I was going to spend $2000 anyway.

Hop on the JL forum and ask ChevyMitchell. He re-gears for fun and profit and ask him the brands he likes and dislikes. There are several really good places in OKC that can hook you up when you pull the trigger.
Offroad Addiction, Custom Offroad equipment, Precision driveline and 4wp All recommend Yukon. Blumenthals was the only one that mentioned spicer gears. Any other places you recommend? I'm currently getting quotes together.
 

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Offroad Addiction, Custom Offroad equipment, Precision driveline and 4wp All recommend Yukon. Blumenthals was the only one that mentioned spicer gears. Any other places you recommend? I'm currently getting quotes together.
Iron Goat is pretty good too. On all other axles, Yukon seems fine, but I've hear of and seen too many failures with the JLs. Not sure if its a heat treat, or cheaper material spec or whatever.
ChevyMitchell is the guy to ask. He's even offered to re-gear people that swing through the east coast on vacation. He's a really good resource to ask.
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