Guys with 37s what wheels are you running?

[ruggburnout]

Going to chime in since I'm running a +25 offset with a 37x12.5 and have done quite a few trails with the set up.

There is no rub.

What lift do you have with yours?

When I called Clayton they recommended I go with the 0 offset to be safe. They said +25 offset might be ok and I didn't have an issue with going to the 0 offset.

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[hjdca]

Method 703s with 0 offset and 4.75 bs turning KO2s. Wanted a lightweight setup to minimize driveline stress.

Nice Truck ! I am also running the same setup - Method 703s with 4.75" backspacing. I have scraped them up many times on the rocks, and they show up shiny silver, so, I use flat black satin paint and touch them up. They still look great after painting. Black is a great color for easy touch ups.
Here are some additional pics.

 

[BLK HOLE]

With 37s I stayed stock. With 39s I had to step up to 13.5s and I found some wheels that looked pretty close to stock.

 

[RodRecket]

What lift do you have with yours?

When I called Clayton they recommended I go with the 0 offset to be safe. They said +25 offset might be ok and I didn't have an issue with going to the 0 offset.

That's probably specific information to the Clayton control arms. In that photo I was running stock control arms. I now have metalcloak control arms with no rub. The lift is AEV 2.5".

So that brings up a good point for OP and anyone researching. Do your homework because not all components work together. I did have to check that my steering components (currylink), control arms (metalcloak), and wheels AEV would all work together. Not every brand would.

 

[RodRecket]

With 37s I stayed stock. With 39s I had to step up to 13.5s and I found some wheels that looked pretty close to stock.

Dang those 39s look good. If they weren't $673 a pop right now I'd be ordering a set.

 

[BLK HOLE]

Dang those 39s look good. If they weren't $673 a pop right now I'd be ordering a set.

Thanks bud. That’s an old pic.
Here’s a real life newer one from the field.

 

[ruggburnout]

That's probably specific information to the Clayton control arms. In that photo I was running stock control arms. I now have metalcloak control arms with no rub. The lift is AEV 2.5".

So that brings up a good point for OP and anyone researching. Do your homework because not all components work together. I did have to check that my steering components (currylink), control arms (metalcloak), and wheels AEV would all work together. Not every brand would.

Are you saying that you fit 37s on stock suspension or that you had stock control arms with AEV lift? Everything I've seen says max you can get without rub is 35s with stock Rubicon (maybe that is considering staying with stock rims at +44 offset as well).

Clayton front lower control arms have the bend for tire clearance at full steering lock. I probably would have been ok with +25 offset, but I figured no reason not to get more clearance going with 0 offset.

I agree on research though. You need to make sure everything will go together. I spent a good bit of time making sure everything would install and work properly.

 

[Rubiman]

With 37s I stayed stock. With 39s I had to step up to 13.5s and I found some wheels that looked pretty close to stock.

Which wheels are those?

 

[BLK HOLE]

Which wheels are those?

Quadratec Hardrock

 

[RodRecket]

Are you saying that you fit 37s on stock suspension or that you had stock control arms with AEV lift? Everything I've seen says max you can get without rub is 35s with stock Rubicon (maybe that is considering staying with stock rims at +44 offset as well).

Clayton front lower control arms have the bend for tire clearance at full steering lock. I probably would have been ok with +25 offset, but I figured no reason not to get more clearance going with 0 offset.

I agree on research though. You need to make sure everything will go together. I spent a good bit of time making sure everything would install and work properly.

I'm saying I've ran both stock CAs and metalcloak CAs with the AEV lift. The point was that I can run a +25 offset 5.7" backspaced wheel with either control arm but not any control arm will work. IE frrom Clayton: "For best results, we recommend going with a backspacing around 4.75, unless you plan on using a tire that is 11.5" wide in which case you can get away with a backspacing in the low to mid 5's range." This is in reference to their control arms.

Long story short there are a lot of combos of offset/backspacing, lifts, and control arms that can work together (like a 37x12.5 and +25mm offset with the right lift/CAs) BUT not every combo is guaranteed to work.

 

[kennyglm]

 

[Jefe1018]

Warn Jackhammer 0 offset.

 

[szech713]

Method 703s with 0 offset and 4.75 bs turning KO2s. Wanted a lightweight setup to minimize driveline stress.

Looks familiar ? Method 703, 0 offset with milestars

 

[WILDHOBO]

So went ahead with Firestone Mt2 tires 37x12.50x17 I have the diesel Aev spacer lift I am on the stock rubicon wheels I do rub a bit at full lock, looking for suggestions on what would be a good fit for me, I don’t want to poke out much as I like my paint lol so what would be good offset back spacing ? Yes rubicon as well any pictures of what you are running would be great I do wanna be able to take it off road as well

37x12.5x17 Mickey Thomson’s on Teraflex Nomad Split spoke at -12 offset and 4.25” of back spacing. Perfect in my opinion.

 

[Rusty PW]

Stock Rubi wheels with Teraflex 1.75" wheel spacers if you want to still use the oem wheel. Tires are Eldorado Extreme Mud Claw 37/12.5-17.

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