38's are the Goldilocks of tires (owner review)

[MrT]

Sweet looking rig! Love the backdrop!

Thanks!

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[drewcnit]

Thank you

Not yet. It's not an issue on the street but I think I will run into hard steering when I lock the front end and try turning flexed out.

I've been eyeing the apex steering boost kit. It's affordable but a pretty involved install. I dont think I'll go PSC.

The Apex steering boost kit is not that bad of an install. Seems involved but I was able to do it over the course of 2 days (could have been 1). I tore it all down one day, put it back together the next day. I don't have years of experience or anything either, really just started doing some of my own work last year when I bought the Jeep.

This video is the best for the new style of kit set up -

I will say I had the luxury of not having an inner fender at the time I did this, so that made accessing the pump astronomically easier.

 

[Dickster]

The Apex steering boost kit is not that bad of an install. Seems involved but I was able to do it over the course of 2 days (could have been 1). I tore it all down one day, put it back together the next day. I don't have years of experience or anything either, really just started doing some of my own work last year when I bought the Jeep.

This video is the best for the new style of kit set up -

I will say I had the luxury of not having an inner fender at the time I did this, so that made accessing the pump astronomically easier.

I have this kit, super easy to install. I have been in some rocks with this kit and it does night an day better. My friends JL on 35s could not steer a section of Trail. 38s apex kit i was able to steer no problem. It is still far behind full hydro steer, but for the cost and time to install worth every penny.

 

[Jems007]

I have AEV Savegre II which I believe is same offset as your borahs. My 12.5” wide 37s rub slightly on the front lower control arm. Not noticeable but you can see where tire hits it ever so slightly in flex/sharp turn.

Do your 13.5s not rub at all? Im also running Metalcloak CA’s

 

[RodRecket]

38s are big but I think the sweet spot is really 37s (36.5) as it fits better and puts less stress on stuff. Also easier on gears and trans. I have the 315s now and am going to 37s soon with 4.88s. I am expecting them to rub at full stuff and wheel turned.

Depending on the tire you might get 36.5. I had 2 sets of 37s that weren't quite measuring 36" and felt like i needed just a bit more height to clear a lot of the obstacles I was crawling over. 38s are basically a true 37.

There's not a big enough difference that I'm considering upgrades I wasn't already considering for 37s but the extra clearance is a big bonus for me.

 

[RodRecket]

The Apex steering boost kit is not that bad of an install. Seems involved but I was able to do it over the course of 2 days (could have been 1). I tore it all down one day, put it back together the next day. I don't have years of experience or anything either, really just started doing some of my own work last year when I bought the Jeep.

This video is the best for the new style of kit set up -

I will say I had the luxury of not having an inner fender at the time I did this, so that made accessing the pump astronomically easier.

Thanks for posting the video and sharing your experience. I've done all the wrenching save for the AEV mods so I think it's doable. I've just never gotten into the power steering before. Luckily I've already pulled my inner fenders to clear the 38s and the new inserts are pretty easy to remove.

 

[RodRecket]

I have this kit, super easy to install. I have been in some rocks with this kit and it does night an day better. My friends JL on 35s could not steer a section of Trail. 38s apex kit i was able to steer no problem. It is still far behind full hydro steer, but for the cost and time to install worth every penny.

You guys are talking me into it pretty quickly ?

 

[RodRecket]

I have AEV Savegre II which I believe is same offset as your borahs. My 12.5” wide 37s rub slightly on the front lower control arm. Not noticeable but you can see where tire hits it ever so slightly in flex/sharp turn.

Do your 13.5s not rub at all? Im also running Metalcloak CA’s

You're running JL/JT saverge, correct? You should be at +25mm offset too. I had stock and now MC control arms with no issues. Are you sure the MC CAs were installed with the bend towards the center of the vehicle?

I still have to do a full flex/turn test but I had room with my 37/12.5

 

[Dickster]

You guys are talking me into it pretty quickly ?

If you have extra money we can help you spend it.

 

[caryt]

Just some info..3" Clayton front, 3.5" Synergy rears, 38" Trail Grapplers and Icon beadlocks. No rubbing so far and no issue steering...its not ready yet to play in the rocks. Stock 3.73's Diesel Rubicon. "Might" regear a little once I get it finished TBD. I Have RCV's for the front and TBD on the rear. It had 39" KM3's..just crappy tires so sold them.

 

[RodRecket]

I need more pictures. The garage pic is great!! I just want to see more pictures. Really looks great. These JTs can swallow tires. My 35's look small. Yours are definitely bigger than mine.

Here are some poser shots in the fall colors. It just rubs the inner fender liner, not bad!

 

[Rusty PW]

I keep going back and forth on which front shafts to go with.

I was sold on RCV until I read about the boot grease. Having the front knuckle a greasy mess is dissuading me. I'm also unsure the frequency of greasing them. I normally rotate tires on each oil change and that's when I'd grease, unsure if that would be frequent enough. Also, they are damn expensive. Smooth turning 4wd turning and their strength is appealing though.

The other option I was looking at is Dana Spicer. Their front shafts are stronger and use 1410 u joints. They are also nearly $600 less than RCV. No real downside their other than retaining the "crow hop" in 4wd. I plan on retaining FAD and have read (on the JL forum) their shafts don't have the correct bushing size for the fad inner shaft. Not sure if that's still an issue.

I'm still planning on running Dana Spicer rear chromoly shafts either way. I'm leaning towards Dana Spicer front and rear. More affordable, stronger than stock, and (unsure how much it matters) all one companies products working together.

I had the RCV shafts on my Power Wagon for over 10 yrs and over 80,000 miles. They never slinged grease anywhere. As for greasing them. I would put 5 pumps of grease into them once a year. If they sling grease. They are over greased. Then it's your fault.

 

[jtim]

I just mounted up a set of 38/13.5r17 Falken Wildpeak RT01 on my AEV Borah beadlocks and am very happy with the new tires so far. I had a JK on a few different lifts and tires and now two JT's with multiple sets of tires and lift heights. On the JT's I've run 285/75r17 KO2s, 35/11.5r17 Toyo ATIII, 37/12.5r17 KM3s, 37/12.5r17 KO2s, and now the 38" Falken RTs.

The Falken RT mounted on the truck comes in at 37.1 inches. My notoriously small 37 KO2s measured at 35.7 inches. It's a noticeable difference and one I think will make a difference on the trail. Additionally, my perspective on width has changed the more I hit the rocks. At 11.5" wide I was rubbing my wheels on every rock I tried going around. Even a 12.5 mounted on a beadlock would rub the hell out of the ring. The extra width is going to come in handy while crawling over obstacles.

I've always been a fan of AT tires since I spend most of my time on the road, but after a but of research I'm giving these RT's a try. I'll report back after I spend a Minnesota winter on them. So far the road manners are great, slightly louder than the KO2s (which were very quiet).

The other thing I kept hearing when considering jumping to a 38 was to just go 40's. This is a no go for me for a few reasons.
1. I'm already regeared to 4.56 and that will work for 38s but not 40s. If I could do it again I'd choose 4.88 or maybe 5.13 but I can get by at 4.56. I think 40s would force a regear.

2. When I decided on 38s I knew I would want to beef up my brakes (powerstop rotors and pads) and axles shafts (RVC up front, dana chromoly rear). This is a considerable expesne at $3k but I would be looking at 6X the cost for new axles if I went 40s.

3. I'd need a taller lift to fit 40s. At 38" I can keep my current lift (AEV 2.5") and retain a ride I really like. I did gut the fender liners and still need to check clearance at full lock/full stuff but I had quite a bit of room when I was running the 37s with the full fender liner. 40s and a 4.5" lift would mean I would no longer fit in my garage, another demerit.

Overall, it's just my opinion, but 38's are the Goldilocks of tires for these trucks. Not too small, but not too big.

Here are the quick specs on my JT for those curious:
2021 JTR AEV JT370 (4.56 gear package) auto transmission
AEV 2.5 lift
Metalcloak CAs (all 8)
Currylink steering (tie rod/draglink)
Teraflex rear upper control arm extended travel kit
Rancho adj trackbar
38/13.5r17 Falken Wildpeak RT01 on Borah Beadlock wheels (+25mm offset)

Looks great!

I'm also putting 38s on a 2.5" lift (Clayton). Wondering what you are doing for inner fenders. In your original picture it looks like the stock inner fenders are still in it? Did you just cut the stock plastic liner where it was rubbing?

 

[antwon412]

Just some info..3" Clayton front, 3.5" Synergy rears, 38" Trail Grapplers and Icon beadlocks. No rubbing so far and no issue steering...its not ready yet to play in the rocks. Stock 3.73's Diesel Rubicon. "Might" regear a little once I get it finished TBD. I Have RCV's for the front and TBD on the rear. It had 39" KM3's..just crappy tires so sold them.

Looks very nose high

 

[caryt]

Its not, its on a slope. On flat ground using a
angle finder reads .7* slope to the front with full tank of Diesel.
Once winch is on who knows won't drop much as I'll likely use a Moto built Crusher thats 65 lbs and the winch is only 54lbs..Warn 9.0RC. Plans are to add a Alacab or RSI topper, tent etc so will be fine till I get it built out then will adjust springs as needed..

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