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Rear diff locker sweating?

Hootbro

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Reading the product description for those O-rings is a bit confusing. Written across the Pacific no doubt, it states in part, " EPDM compounds are not recommended for gasoline, petroleum oil and grease, and hydrocarbon environments ." It seems that the EPDM is made more for a seal for a product that may come into contact with something we may ingest. The sizing will be useful to maybe cross reference.

While the fluid I'm using is synthetic (100% not fully that use oil/petroleum base compounds) I have no idea what would happen if on road somewhere if I need to do a fluid change and don't have access to an Amsoil product and have to use something else to get home because of water ingestion or something.
Good catch. I missed that detail. I know the sizing is right though. Probably need to find the Viton compatible size. I just know Nitrile O-Rings do not age well over time.
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Dougstdig

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Good catch. I missed that detail. I know the sizing is right though. Probably need to find the Viton compatible size. I just know Nitrile O-Rings do not age well over time.
I have some in storage, but don't know what their compound is. I think they're green or blue. I have another kit that's all black...all I know. I took photos with my phone so i can at least ask a parts counter person questions and maybe get to where I need to be. Valuable info none the less...thanks
 

Hootbro

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Valuable info none the less...thanks
I know what threw me now, it lists Skydrol as being compatible with it. From my experience using Skydrol hydraulic fluid in aviation, the stuff is pretty caustic and am surprised any material rated for Skydrol would not be rated for petroleum based product but I see after further research, Skydrol is a phosphate ester-based fluid and not petroleum.
 

Dougstdig

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I know what threw me now, it lists Skydrol as being compatible with it. From my experience using Skydrol hydraulic fluid in aviation, the stuff is pretty caustic and am surprised any material rated for Skydrol would not be rated for petroleum based product but I see after further research, Skydrol is a phosphate ester-based fluid and not petroleum.
Yeah...didn't know what that one was. One thing for sure though, in a pinch, anything would work for at least a little while. Both could be replaced after using them temporarily since they're below the fluid line.
 

Dougstdig

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Well, after making 2 trips to my buddy’s shop, who’s out of town on a thanksgiving mud bog, I made the 50 mile drive again. I had an oh sh-t moment when I realized my torque wrench starts at 50ft-lbs. I guess it wasn’t meant to be until he brings back the tool cabinet where he has a lighter weight torque wrench.

Last night I found out that I had SAE socketed hex heads. Yep, my metric sockets are in the tool chest that are off having fun with my buddy. Off to The Depot I went…Thanksgiving eve lucked out and they were still open @ 6:30pm. I took the opportunity to add to my road tools and I should be covered now. They were out of metric mini rail sets, but had individual sockets ay almost 4 dollars a piece. While not much in and of itself, my I saw this little set with 37 bits. My brain went to calculating, and this kit seemed like a bargain at 44-45 bucks instead of $144 plus the case, which will fit in my box quite nicely.

Not letting the inconvenience totally waste the time, I took the bolts @Hootbro recommended and ground down their heads. While they aren’t 3” long, they are 60mm, which were the longest Lowe’s had. I crawled under the rig and think they’ll be fine to use as alignment dowels.

Now, when will I have time to get back to the shop to change the gear oil and covers??? I should be fine maintenance schedule wise. I was incorrect in thinking the service was due at 25k. I looked in my manual and saw that it’s actually 40k.

Jeep Gladiator Rear diff locker sweating? IMG_1755


Jeep Gladiator Rear diff locker sweating? IMG_1753
 

Echo26

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Did you find the cause of the oil marks around the plug? My stock Rubicon has this issue but on the front axle.
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