Do we need to occasionally run the Pentastar at wide open throttle for lubrication purposes?

[FrankFrqnkFrank]

This is from my Promaster chat group

”(This engine) has a 2-spd oil pump. Its 2nd gear kicks in around 3500 RPM. That isn't WOT, but 2X PSI still has to help with lubricati…”

and

”This engine needs occasional WOT runs if you want it to last. Granny cycling is bad for it. So bad for it we actually created a new granny cycle test during the cylinder #3 misfire issue. The highest wear is in the valve guides, because of tight valve stem seals (for emissions, reduce oil burn). They basically dry out. When you go WOT/high rpm/load you get some fresh oil in there and this keeps the wear down."

I generally push the engine any more than needed.

thoughts or guidance?

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[Mr._Bill]

From what I've read here, occasionally getting it up just under the Red Line, especially during break-in (first 500 miles) is good for it.

I don't Red Line it, but usually do fairly heavy acceleration up the freeway ramps. Most of my highway driving is in the lower RPM range for better MPG.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

This is from my Promaster chat group

”(This engine) has a 2-spd oil pump. Its 2nd gear kicks in around 3500 RPM. That isn't WOT, but 2X PSI still has to help with lubricati…”

and

”This engine needs occasional WOT runs if you want it to last. Granny cycling is bad for it. So bad for it we actually created a new granny cycle test during the cylinder #3 misfire issue. The highest wear is in the valve guides, because of tight valve stem seals (for emissions, reduce oil burn). They basically dry out. When you go WOT/high rpm/load you get some fresh oil in there and this keeps the wear down."

I generally push the engine any more than needed.

thoughts or guidance?

LOL - that's all I can say about such bunk. I can't think of where to start to shred that.

the oil pump is NOT two speed. it's variable displacement. It's driven off the crank (chain drive)
It kicks into high volume at 3,000 RPM, not 3500 rpm (right there that tells me no one knows what they are talking about - two speed? 3500 rpm?)

High RPM doesn't get "fresh oil down there". Why would that matter? the valve guides aren't pressure lubricated so oil pressure won't matter.
Pressure doesn't lubricate, oil film down. There's constantly more oil running down on things just driving it. High RPM doesn't force or push "fresh oil" anywhere.

Granny cycling? These regularly hit over 3,000 RPM.

Man, the stuff out there from supposedly business types, etc.

Trying to keep these under 3,000 RPM all the time isn't good, but you don't need to WOT them and it doesn't matter about lubrication. it's more to keep the wear spread out and varnish off. If you never went over xx RPM, you'd build varnishes or have wear to the point that when you finally did cut loose with it, you'd be tossing things into the varnish or beyond low RPM wear.

Basically, ignore all you've seen there.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

From what I've read here, occasionally getting it up just under the Red Line, especially during break-in (first 500 miles) is good for it.

I don't Red Line it, but usually do fairly heavy acceleration up the freeway ramps. Most of my highway driving is in the lower RPM range for better MPG.

Varying RPM is good.
High RPM like just under redline with little load at break-in, that's bad and not true break-in. Break-in is building up high combustion pressures meaning accelerations up to highway speed trying to prevent low gear kickdowns, keep throttle pressure up. Load it, force the rings out.

There's indications in his post/quotes that tell me whoever writes that stuff has no clue at all and is just tossing out stuff they've heard or are guessing. Anyway, it's wrong.

 

[Hootbro]

Sounds like a modern take on the Italian Tune Up of years past. I have my doubts that pushing to redline regularly of any modern fuel injected engine has any beneficial effects that would displace any normal regular maintenance needs and is more of a mental placebo.

 

[WILDHOBO]

This is from my Promaster chat group

”(This engine) has a 2-spd oil pump. Its 2nd gear kicks in around 3500 RPM. That isn't WOT, but 2X PSI still has to help with lubricati…”

and

”This engine needs occasional WOT runs if you want it to last. Granny cycling is bad for it. So bad for it we actually created a new granny cycle test during the cylinder #3 misfire issue. The highest wear is in the valve guides, because of tight valve stem seals (for emissions, reduce oil burn). They basically dry out. When you go WOT/high rpm/load you get some fresh oil in there and this keeps the wear down."

I generally push the engine any more than needed.

thoughts or guidance?

Living in the mountains, mine sees 5-5,500 every time it’s driven. I back off the throttle a bit when it crosses 6k, but I don’t up shift. I just let it run. Its best torque is at high rpms, so why avoid it?

 

[Charles 236]

What @ShadowsPapa said is correct. These engines are not prone to failure from driving any certain way, like any engine that is mass produced there is occasionally one that has mechanical issues. I have worked on hundreds, if not thousands, of Pentastar engines since they came out, and the early valve guide issues were solved almost ten years ago. Camshaft wear issues are also rare, although the Internet makes it seem like every Pentastar engine is on borrowed time. My recommendation: drive your Pentastar powered vehicle without worrying about things that MIGHT go wrong. If it does have a problem, then fix it.

 

[Lunentucker]

All you really have to do is flip it over and let the oil fill the valve covers every 5000 miles.
I wouldn't recommend frequent high rpm revs. These things are made by people who have a reputation for not tightening bolts.

 

[starrskream]

LOL - that's all I can say about such bunk. I can't think of where to start to shred that.

the oil pump is NOT two speed. it's variable displacement. It's driven off the crank (chain drive)
It kicks into high volume at 3,000 RPM, not 3500 rpm (right there that tells me no one knows what they are talking about - two speed? 3500 rpm?)

High RPM doesn't get "fresh oil down there". Why would that matter? the valve guides aren't pressure lubricated so oil pressure won't matter.
Pressure doesn't lubricate, oil film down. There's constantly more oil running down on things just driving it. High RPM doesn't force or push "fresh oil" anywhere.

Granny cycling? These regularly hit over 3,000 RPM.

Man, the stuff out there from supposedly business types, etc.

Trying to keep these under 3,000 RPM all the time isn't good, but you don't need to WOT them and it doesn't matter about lubrication. it's more to keep the wear spread out and varnish off. If you never went over xx RPM, you'd build varnishes or have wear to the point that when you finally did cut loose with it, you'd be tossing things into the varnish or beyond low RPM wear.

Basically, ignore all you've seen there.

I agree. Though I do wonder one thing, maybe you or someone knows. My KL tended to exhaust water. Not a lot, just a bit. Likely just a way the ac or something engine related pushed out water. Would the occasional wot help kick out the water trapped in low points of the exhaust and help prevent rust?

 

[jac04]

Just a FYI, the second quote appears to come from a person who claims to have been a Pentastar design engineer, screen name OIL_UDDER on BITOG. The discussion on BITOG was about a pre-PUG 3.6.
You can find the quote here: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/626-000-mile-pentastar-teardown.329423/#post-5474366

Actual OIL_UDDER quote from BITOG:
"Last point. This engine needs occasional WOT runs if you want it to last. Granny cycling is bad for it. So bad for it we actually created a new granny cycle test during the cylinder #3 misfire issue. The highest wear is in the valve guides, because of tight valve stem seals (for emissions, reduce oil burn). They basically dry out. When you go WOT/high rpm/load you get some fresh oil in there and this keeps the wear down. Thicker oil might not help this condition but we also change the valves/guides/seals in 2014+. Not sure the impact."

 

[Oilburner]

You have to wring the shit out of a 3.6L for it to make anything resembling power anyway…

 

[MPMB]

Huh. That's a new one. And basic driving makes this theory laughable.

 

[Badunit]

It would be a poor design indeed if it required WOT (which I interpret as redline RPM) to sling oil to all the places that need it. I've had mine 6 months and have not had a need to redline it. Close, yes, but not quite. I am used to diesels and putting around in a 4.0L TJ. Anything over 2500RPM feels like I'm winding it out.

 

[jac04]

^^ Yeah, if I'm up to full operating temperature, I'm at WOT every now & then.

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