Metal Cloak vs Synergy/Yeti?

[dayusmc]

I'll McMasterCarr order the bolts. Its cheaper and they are usually the best quality.

I agree. I was ordering a bunch of Steer Smarts stuff anyway, so I just bought them at the same time. Ordering just 2 bolts from McMaster Carr you still have to pay shipping.
The Steer Smarts Sector Shaft / Track bar comes with new bolts, unfortunately they are not the 9/16" bolts, you have to buy them separately.

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[PuddleJumper]

I agree. I was ordering a bunch of Steer Smarts stuff anyway, so I just bought them at the same time. Ordering just 2 bolts from McMaster Carr you still have to pay shipping.
The Steer Smarts Sector Shaft / Track bar comes with new bolts, unfortunately they are not the 9/16" bolts, you have to buy them separately.

I always have a cart of bolts to order for work. I just throw mine in.

 

[hjdca]

So I've been looking for a sector shaft brace kit to mitigate steer wander with bigger tires. I know Its not 100 percent the cause but I've seen how much the steer box flexes the frame when moving weight. So I'm aware of the more expensive kits that brace the track bar as well. However due to my Mojave having a deisel frame I'll have to do a little cutting. Or save 150-200 bucks and get the Metal Cloak the just braces the box. My Aunt has the Yeti SteerSmarts on her Rubi w/ thier Steer stabilizer. She hates how it tracks, i.e. doesn't want to return to center. She says she preferred her old JLUs steering feel. Personally I can tell her truck doesn't quite back to center like mine does but otherwise i cannot tell a difference. But with that in mind, does the Yeti/Synergy style mess with the steering feel in an undesired way? Or is that extra metal bracing worth the money? I'm not personally having any issues with how my truck drives. Its just my 37s wander a bit more than my stock 33s which i figured they would. I got the Mopar 2in lift LCAs to put in just to get a bit more caster as I think that will affect its desire to go straight much more. Plus the steering dive to whatever the road grade is when heavy braking is annoying. TIA.

To get the automatic "steer back to center", and "better tracking" and "less wander", you need more front caster. With a 3.5" lift, I like approx. 6.5 to 6.9 degrees of caster. To get more caster, with adjustable aftermarket control arms, lengthen your lower control arms and shorten your upper control arms. This will tilt your pinion angle down, so, it is a fine line you tread with this adjustment. Go half a turn at a time on all 4 control arms and test, then, repeat as necessary.

 

[PuddleJumper]

To get the automatic "steer back to center", and "better tracking" and "less wander", you need more front caster. With a 3.5" lift, I like approx. 6.5 to 6.9 degrees of caster. To get more caster, with adjustable aftermarket control arms, shorten your lower control arms and lengthen your upper control arms. This will tilt your pinion angle down, so, it is a fine line you tread with this adjustment. Go half a turn at a time on all 4 control arms and test, then, repeat as necessary.

I get that. However you seem to be suggesting more negative caster. That would increase dive and wander especially under braking. Almost no vehicle comes factory with negative or neutral caster. I want my to track like a car does which is as you stated 6.5 -7 degrees. Rolling it forward doesn't sound right to achieve that. Unless this a factor of your lift kit. A Mojave has about 4 degrees of caster over the sport 5.5. To get more positive caster, one would lengthen the LCAs and as u said angle the pinion down to do this.

This is my reasoning behind getting the Mopar 2in lift LCAs. They are a 1/4 in longer and designed to restore the caster lost by lifting. as I sure you know. So in my case of no lift and not exceeding a .75 in spacer in the future. this would put my Mojave in 6 plus caster range as desired. My point of getting the sector brace was mitigate any box/frame flexed caused by heavy 37s as not make my caster correction goals mute. Though I am learning a Track bar brace is recommended as wells a 9/16 bolts to take out as much factory slack as possible. which also would further reducing shimmy with 37s. I'm sure we mean the same thing but I got disconnect about which CAs to change for caster.

 

[dayusmc]

I think he just wrote it backwards, you are right lengthen the LCA and/or Shorten the UCA

 

[PuddleJumper]

I think he just wrote it backwards, you are right lengthen the LCA and/or Shorten the UCA

I'm sure he's right too. Just sent me for a fuggin loop tho.

 

[hjdca]

I think he just wrote it backwards, you are right lengthen the LCA and/or Shorten the UCA

Yes, you are right, I accidently wrote it backwards. I am fixing my post now. Anyway, I little more postive caster made a big difference in my truck. Helps with tracking, wobble, wheel centering, etc...

 

[hjdca]

I'm sure he's right too. Just sent me for a fuggin loop tho.

Sorry, my bad, I was writing and thinking fast. My formula for making mistakes and re-doing work. I fixed my post. I will be more careful, I hate making mistakes and giving the wrong advice.... Thanks for finding my error.

 

[PuddleJumper]

Sorry, my bad, I was writing and thinking fast. My formula for making mistakes and re-doing work. I fixed my post. I will be more careful, I hate making mistakes and giving the wrong advice.... Thanks for finding my error.

nah your good man. I appreciate u taking the time and sharing your advice.

 

[willys 41]

I have the steer smart put there is a problem with the steer smart and Synergy
The two bolts that hold the bearing housing to the brace will always come loss no mater how much loctite you use
To solve the problem on the steer smart I drilled 5/16 hole through the bearing housing and mine is now through bolted and never loosens up
Synergy new update version now comes with a through bolted bearing housing and I think is the way to go
You will notes a huge difference with a good sector shaft brace

 

[dayusmc]

To solve the problem on the steer smart I drilled 5/16 hole through the bearing housing and mine is now through bolted and never loosens up

I am interested in doing this. So you just use a long nut and bolt now?

 

[willys 41]

I am interested in doing this. So you just use a long nut and bolt now?

Yes. A 5/16 bolt about 3.5 in. and double nut with loctite
When I get home I will post some pictures

 

[dayusmc]

Yes. A 5/16 bolt about 3.5 in. and double nut with loctite
When I get home I will post some pictures

Thank you

 

[Free2roam]

I ended up using both. Meatalcloak and synergy. Used the Meatalcloak one with the bushing and their nut. Ended up finding out after the fact that there was just a trackbar brace. I ended up with the synergy sector shaft brace as well and using both. Now it's captured on both sides. I like the synergy one better because of the gusset on it. With the Meatalcloak one it's more secure to the frame.

 

[willys 41]

Thank you

First of all let me say I am a machinist so this was easy for me
The best way is with a milling machine put can be done with a large dill press
1. Lined up the housing in the vise with a drill blank to make sure we are true to the piece
2. I used a no. G letter drill bit .261 to line up the threaded hole to be drilled
A .261 bit is a perfect fit in the threaded hole
3. Took a 5/16 machinist drill bit to start and drill as deep as it will go
A machinist drill bit is a short brill bit and will not wonder when drilling
4. Finished the hole with a jobber drill bit or longer drill bit
I could always tell when the bolts would come loss. The jeep would start to wonder
One you do this you will no longer have the bearing housing bolts come loss
Hope this helps

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