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More lift research…I like this.

Camaroboi13

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It took several times longer than it would have 30 years ago but still being able to do it was rewarding in itself.
This is the smartest way to go. I pieced together my 4.5” lift from 4 different companies. Cost was $2100 for everything, didn’t do UCAs. The plus side to doing it yourself is when something doesn’t seem right, you already know what to look for.
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its no so much the parts. It's more that if i install xyz lift and they break a mount, or something connected to it the warranty wont cover it.


he gives the parts list at the very beginning of the video.
Thanks, I see the parts now. I originally just opened and then closed the video when I saw the 23:00 counter.

Adding all those parts to a lift that already costs $2,300 seems like you're not getting a very good value. You could start with a more complete lift that includes adjustable arms and track bars and you will come out cheaper in the end.
Knowing that, is there an all in one lift, appx 2" - 2.5" that lifts and levels the truck?
I know jack about lifts, so its all extremely new to me.
Idk how much if any off roading I will be doing, in the next year or so...outside of the insane snow e get here. No rocks to crawl over here really, so mostly mud, and trails afaik around here.
Clayton 2.5" is pretty close to level. I think it leaves just the right amount of rake. Here's mine with a couple different side views:

Jeep Gladiator More lift research…I like this. Gladiator side profile #2 small


Jeep Gladiator More lift research…I like this. Gladiator side profile
 

Zachanadandy

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They won't cover it anyways. The warranty covers defects, not stuff breaking like mounts that will be attributed to modifications. Mopar lift or other you break a mount, it's not covered. The Mopar lift is covered under the Mopar warranty, aka the parts themselves are covered, they are not covered under the vehicle warranty.
I would disagree with this assumption. If your vehicle is still under bumper to bumper warranty the mounts are covered. If your only mods are Mopar branded and installed by the dealer the mods and the bumper to bumper are intact. If you break a mount due to a bad weld it would/should (shit dealers maybe not) be covered regardless of mods or who installed them. If you smash a mount to death on obstacles then I could see them not covering it regardless of warranty. All that being said, mounts are dirt cheap and any component welder could weld a new one on. Trying to save the warranty for low cost and low failure rate items seems pointless to me. I don't need a warranty on cheap and/or easy items to replace. If my transmission or engine shit the bed that's a different story.
 

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I don't need a warranty on cheap and/or easy items to replace. If my transmission or engine shit the bed that's a different story.
I have an extended bumper to bumper warranty - and I was under the assumption - perhaps I am wrong - that virtually ANYTHING going bad that can be traced back to a lift and bigger tires i.e. engine, trans, transfer case, driveshafts, ball joints, steering components, death wobble and on and on....can be disallowed if the lift is not a Mopar. Am I wrong? I suppose it depends a bit on the dealer?
 

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starrskream

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I have an extended bumper to bumper warranty - and I was under the assumption - perhaps I am wrong - that virtually ANYTHING going bad that can be traced back to a lift and bigger tires i.e. engine, trans, transfer case, driveshafts, ball joints, steering components, death wobble and on and on....can be disallowed if the lift is not a Mopar. Am I wrong? I suppose it depends a bit on the dealer?
that’s precisely what I’m attempting to avoid.
I don’t want the dealer 40,000 miles down the road saying “your transmission failed because you put a lift on.”
going this way I keep the stock feel, get some lift and they really cannot argue. Everything is setup to maintain stock angles, and fitment when it comes to alignment angles.

I’ll have to ask the dealer about what they would do given this situation.
 

Zachanadandy

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I have an extended bumper to bumper warranty - and I was under the assumption - perhaps I am wrong - that virtually ANYTHING going bad that can be traced back to a lift and bigger tires i.e. engine, trans, transfer case, driveshafts, ball joints, steering components, death wobble and on and on....can be disallowed if the lift is not a Mopar. Am I wrong? I suppose it depends a bit on the dealer?
They have to prove that the modification caused the failure, but a bad dealer can try to deny warranty for anything. If they warranty just 1 similar problem with the same sized tires and lift that's dealer installed like a transmission failure and then try to deny yours because the tires are too big you'd win in court but that may be a fight you're unwilling to have? If I had to keep my jeep stock or only have it modified by the dealer with incomplete Mopar lift etc I wouldn't own one personally. If we are talking Mopar lift plus aftermarket parts like the op posted the same shit dealer would try to argue the aftermarket parts caused the problem so I don't see the value in using some Mopar parts but to each his own.
 

Zachanadandy

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that’s precisely what I’m attempting to avoid.
I don’t want the dealer 40,000 miles down the road saying “your transmission failed because you put a lift on.”
going this way I keep the stock feel, get some lift and they really cannot argue. Everything is setup to maintain stock angles, and fitment when it comes to alignment angles.

I’ll have to ask the dealer about what they would do given this situation.
The Mopar lift doesn't do anything to maintain stock angles aside from the lcas to get caster close to stock. The track bars will be too short, at a steeper angle, and the axle will be shifted to one side as a result. The drag link will be operating at a much steeper angle as well. Same for the control arms. No the Mopar lift doesn't maintain the stock feel in my experience. They'll still argue whatever they want to try and avoid warranty if they are so inclined.
 

Camaroboi13

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I have an extended bumper to bumper warranty - and I was under the assumption - perhaps I am wrong - that virtually ANYTHING going bad that can be traced back to a lift and bigger tires i.e. engine, trans, transfer case, driveshafts, ball joints, steering components, death wobble and on and on....can be disallowed if the lift is not a Mopar. Am I wrong? I suppose it depends a bit on the dealer?
Under the Mangeson-moss act it is the dealer’s duty to prove what you did to the vehicle directly relates to the failed components. There is no way a suspension upgrade can cause a broken lifter or a failed transmission. If you pull up with electrical failure and you have twelve light bars attached, that’s probably on you.
 

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Sounds like I'm going to need to have a heart to heart with the local jeep service manager to get their take on things. That should give a good indication as to how they will tend to lean. I admit, with jeeps being (arguably) the most modded vehicles out there, how does a dealership deal with these types of issues. My guess is that it's dependent on one persons opinion. An opinion that could change, or a person that may be new who you've never dealt with before. Definitely a slippery slope. Perhaps, I'll cash in the extended warranty and just go my own way....
 

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Depends who you ask
that’s precisely what I’m attempting to avoid.
I don’t want the dealer 40,000 miles down the road saying “your transmission failed because you put a lift on.”
going this way I keep the stock feel, get some lift and they really cannot argue. Everything is setup to maintain stock angles, and fitment when it comes to alignment angles.

I’ll have to ask the dealer about what they would do given this situation.
Hey Star your in NY which uses insane amounts of salt on their roads based on that I’d suggest the Metalcloak lift with anodized parts. Where in NY btw?
 

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Knowing that, is there an all in one lift, appx 2" - 2.5" that lifts and levels the truck?
I know jack about lifts, so its all extremely new to me.
Idk how much if any off roading I will be doing, in the next year or so...outside of the insane snow e get here. No rocks to crawl over here really, so mostly mud, and trails afaik around here.
There are a few yes, but you will get a million responses here and everyone will say their lift is the best.


My understanding is that to keep your factory warranty intact, you would not only have to use the Mopar lift but also have your dealer install it.
Not to sound mean, but this is a statement that does everyone a disservice. What specifically do you mean? I mention this because the general term 'waranty' is not good. It is used a lot here. So if your engine blows up it's because of the lift? No. There was a law past some years ago that requires dealers to prove the aftermarket component caused the problem, otherwise it is warranty. The problem here is though that there are a TON of dealers that don't play nice and flat out lie and take advantage of people. Unfortunately, good dealers take the heat for the bad ones. So we should be specific with these terms. What specific items/components are of discussion? The control arms? The frame? The transmission? Just trying to point out that generalized terms with most discussions lead everyone down a rabbit hole. Not at all trying to pick fun at your particular post. ?


I won't be installing this myself, so in the long run it is less for me to F with. I'm a 100% disabled vet and ive been wrenching since 1997, but crawling around under and dealing with stuff like this is very difficult.
Ok. STOP. Stop right here! This is CRITICAL that I promise you 90% of people will fail to acknowledge before giving you their idea of the 'best ever' component, whatever it be. There is a ton of really great knowledge here, a ton of experience, and a ton of great people. But, these words you said are critical! Listen to everyone, with salt. Identify, first and foremost, what are YOUR needs, and what are YOUR desires. Then go from there. If you only want a mild lift, then slapping on a 4" coil over is not the right choice. But undoubtedly someone will probably say that is the 'best lift'. It happens a lot. you need to iron out what you want. What is important to you. And then start crossing of options.

There are a ton of options. From a very simple budget spacer lift that retains all, or almost all, of the factory driving dynamics, to lifts that are well into the 20K mark. Now, you did indicate a "all in one 2-2.5" lift". But even with that, there are options. For example, MOPAR uses longer control arms, with RUBBER bushings, and fox (linear) shocks. AEV uses a drop bracket retaining factor control arms with rubber bushings and digressive bilstein shocks. Clayton offers adjustable control arms with non-rubber Johnny joint style bushings for maximum flex and (I think digressive?) falcon shocks. Of course some parts can mix and match. Also spring rates and designed/intended use is different.

Then there is the topic of how picky are you about the details? Will the axle being off center by 3/4 of an inch bother you? If so you need additional parts, if not, a simple kit will work. Do you want low NVH for a quiet smooth ride, or do you want to sacrifice some ride quality for the maximum possible free moving articulation?

There are a TON of options, which is awesome. But if you don't identify your needs and desires, and your use case, and if you are not honest with yourself on your realistic use - you will likely be disappointed with where you spend money.

So, lots of super awesome knowledge and people here, but think long and hard about what you truly want, and what you specifically do NOT want. I am in the same 100 club as you and let me tell you that specific situation put me in a particular lift 'category' that I went with and I couldn't be happier. On the opposite end, several years ago I did not truly weigh options and put a totally different type of lift on my TJ and I absolutely hate it, because it is not suitable for my needs.

Make a needs/wants list, and a do not want list.
 
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Hey Star your in NY which uses insane amounts of salt on their roads based on that I’d suggest the Metalcloak lift with anodized parts. Where in NY btw?
Near Buffalo, you ?
 
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There are a few yes, but you will get a million responses here and everyone will say their lift is the best.




Not to sound mean, but this is a statement that does everyone a disservice. What specifically do you mean? I mention this because the general term 'waranty' is not good. It is used a lot here. So if your engine blows up it's because of the lift? No. There was a law past some years ago that requires dealers to prove the aftermarket component caused the problem, otherwise it is warranty. The problem here is though that there are a TON of dealers that don't play nice and flat out lie and take advantage of people. Unfortunately, good dealers take the heat for the bad ones. So we should be specific with these terms. What specific items/components are of discussion? The control arms? The frame? The transmission? Just trying to point out that generalized terms with most discussions lead everyone down a rabbit hole. Not at all trying to pick fun at your particular post. ?




Ok. STOP. Stop right here! This is CRITICAL that I promise you 90% of people will fail to acknowledge before giving you their idea of the 'best ever' component, whatever it be. There is a ton of really great knowledge here, a ton of experience, and a ton of great people. But, these words you said are critical! Listen to everyone, with salt. Identify, first and foremost, what are YOUR needs, and what are YOUR desires. Then go from there. If you only want a mild lift, then slapping on a 4" coil over is not the right choice. But undoubtedly someone will probably say that is the 'best lift'. It happens a lot. you need to iron out what you want. What is important to you. And then start crossing of options.

There are a ton of options. From a very simple budget spacer lift that retains all, or almost all, of the factory driving dynamics, to lifts that are well into the 20K mark. Now, you did indicate a "all in one 2-2.5" lift". But even with that, there are options. For example, MOPAR uses longer control arms, with RUBBER bushings, and fox (linear) shocks. AEV uses a drop bracket retaining factor control arms with rubber bushings and digressive bilstein shocks. Clayton offers adjustable control arms with non-rubber Johnny joint style bushings for maximum flex and (I think digressive?) falcon shocks. Of course some parts can mix and match. Also spring rates and designed/intended use is different.

Then there is the topic of how picky are you about the details? Will the axle being off center by 3/4 of an inch bother you? If so you need additional parts, if not, a simple kit will work. Do you want low NVH for a quiet smooth ride, or do you want to sacrifice some ride quality for the maximum possible free moving articulation?

There are a TON of options, which is awesome. But if you don't identify your needs and desires, and your use case, and if you are not honest with yourself on your realistic use - you will likely be disappointed with where you spend money.

So, lots of super awesome knowledge and people here, but think long and hard about what you truly want, and what you specifically do NOT want. I am in the same 100 club as you and let me tell you that specific situation put me in a particular lift 'category' that I went with and I couldn't be happier. On the opposite end, several years ago I did not truly weigh options and put a totally different type of lift on my TJ and I absolutely hate it, because it is not suitable for my needs.

Make a needs/wants list, and a do not want list.
first, thank you for being clear and helpful. ?
I will try to respond to everything you said, as accurately as possible.

I would rather spend $500-1000$ more now than have to with it later.

What I mean by Warranty is simply this. That by using Mopar components, dealer installed,as much as possible, I maintain as much as my original 3/36 Warranty that I can. if you watch the video in my original post, you will see that they use a Mopar lift three-quarter inch DayStar spacers to achieve a level and other components like an adjustable drag link and brackets to drop the control arms to fit into Factory standard angles.

Knowing that I want my ride to be as close to Factory as possible, and make it easier to keep aligned. That’s why I need the adjustable drag link and the control arm brackets that are shown in the video above.

Beyond that my needs are pretty simple. I don’t live near anywhere that I can go rock crawling that I know of. And to be honest, I likely never would even risk that level of damage to this vehicle. That said I may find a mud trail somewhere someday that I want to check out and I’m cool with that.

I want to lift the truck. I wanted to be completely functional and stable and not have to mess with it down the road. I expect when finished it will be just as “factory, look ride and feel” as realistically possible. Just sitting taller.

again, going back to my original post at the beginning of this thread the video there fits a lot of what I’m looking for. The guy in the video to great care in detail and explaining testing and proving that that set up is very good.

In general I want to know if that is everything that I need or should I add adjustable control arms should I add other things to make it stronger overall? I do not want to have to tear this apart in 2 to 3 years or destroy my tires because the car can no longer be aligned.

bulletproof and easy to maintain, basically.
Also, sorry for the bad spelling I did. This was voice to text while installing mudflaps.
 

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Not to sound mean, but this is a statement that does everyone a disservice. What specifically do you mean? I mention this because the general term 'waranty' is not good. It is used a lot here. So if your engine blows up it's because of the lift? No. There was a law past some years ago that requires dealers to prove the aftermarket component caused the problem, otherwise it is warranty. The problem here is though that there are a TON of dealers that don't play nice and flat out lie and take advantage of people. Unfortunately, good dealers take the heat for the bad ones. So we should be specific with these terms. What specific items/components are of discussion? The control arms? The frame? The transmission? Just trying to point out that generalized terms with most discussions lead everyone down a rabbit hole. Not at all trying to pick fun at your particular post.
What I meant by saying “My understanding is that to keep your factory warranty intact, you would not only have to use the Mopar lift but also have your dealer install it.” Is that a dealer is not going to warrantee an owner’s aftermarket suspension, nor will they cover any problems that they think may have been created by the lift or its installation. I will do my best to be more specific next time.

I understand and agree with your thinking about generalization. The problem I run into when posting is that it usually takes several paragraphs for me to get where I’m trying to go. Last night I shortened it a little too much. Reading some of the posts on here about warranty claims being denied because of aftermarket parts makes no sense, but without all the facts, a lot of them could, even if they shouldn’t. Was my lift responsible for a bend in the frame or transmission failure, it shouldn’t be, but depending on what was installed and how, just about anything is possible.
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