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37 inch vs my 33 inch. Same tire weight. Does Tire weight or Tire size matter more?

bleda2002

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yup even my MT Baja Bosses aren't true 37s. 36.4in true height
They're all 36.5ish, even the ko2. The ko2 running small stems from people measuring them under weight, and BFG has soft sidewalls so they squish quite a bit. Unmounted, they're accurate, under weight you will be usually 1/4-1/3 inch shorter than other tire manufacturers (milestar not withstanding as they're crowned tires and you ride only on center tread).
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They're all 36.5ish, even the ko2. The ko2 running small stems from people measuring them under weight, and BFG has soft sidewalls so they squish quite a bit. Unmounted, they're accurate, under weight you will be usually 1/4-1/3 inch shorter than other tire manufacturers (milestar not withstanding as they're crowned tires and you ride only on center tread).
kinda makes sense.
 
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Austin S

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An OE designated AT tire isn't gonna perform like the original. Not a downside but just to make you aware. THe lighter you can keep your wheel and tire combo, the happier you'll be. Its more efficient, less wear, and less impact on the handling characteristics. But with Jeeps, you got a good bit of assembly weight to go before you cause immediate problems per se. Considering people can and are running 40s on heavy beadlocks on these axles with generally no issues. You probably fine no matter what you slap on. Barring insane offset and throwing scrub radius out the window. If your under 100 pounds per corner, thats a amazing. 110-140 is about avg and most would daily this and says it completely livable, maybe a regear to help it along too. go above 140 a corner and your probably a specific group of people that already know what they are doing and why they are doing it. But the average joe would be pretty annoyed to DD something like that for sure. To answer your question about ball joint wear, thats usually gonna be more impacted by what offset wheel you run than weight, but weight is still a factor. As long as you stay within a reasonable offset, your scrub radius should be fine and not stress the ball joints excessively. Ball joints are wear items though so don't expect them to last forever just cus u stay stock or light. Just pick a quality wheel or rock your 17in stocks and have fun. BTW the 37in KO2 is actually 35.5 inches tall roughly in its true height, so its one of the few tires that may not require a regear if you have 4.10s. Not that anything requires a regear, its usually decided off of use and personal tastes.
This is all very helpful thank you! I do have 4.10 gears and it sounds like the 37 inch tire is truly a 35" tire sadly. I can't believe most tires aren't the original size :(. But it sounds like the tire will fit as well on my jeep.
 
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Austin S

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I run 37s completely stock. Its fine. Depends on perception though. Some regear all the way to 5.13, truss the axles, 4in lift, 2.5 ton steering, chromoly shafts, etc.
Do you have any type of offset? If so what are you running?
 

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This is all very helpful thank you! I do have 4.10 gears and it sounds like the 37 inch tire is truly a 35" tire sadly. I can't believe most tires aren't the original size :(. But it sounds like the tire will fit as well on my jeep.
its still a 37. just runs small. I've put one side by side my mickey Thompson. both unmounted. BFG ran an 1in small. Still a big tire tho.
 

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Do you have any type of offset? If so what are you running?
Stock Sport OE wheels with a 1in spacer. so about +20 offset total.
 

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OP, keep checking on walmart.com when you're buying. Several on this forum, including myself, have bought tires HEAVILY discounted there. I picked up a set of Maxxis Razr MTs, 37x12.5, for $146 each. The deals show up every few months, and disappear quickly, so you'll have to check often.
 

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Hey everyone! I'm curious on upgrading my tires but im trying to research and was curious on people's thoughts on tire weight subject. I have a Jeep gladiator sport S with 33 inch fallen wild peak tires.

The 33in R18 falken tires are rated for tire weight 65.3 lbs each.

I'm wanting the 37inch bfgoodrich ko2 r17 FP Ford performance tire and that says it is 63 lb's!

So my question is I feel like the negatives and the wear usually comes from a heavier tire doesn't it? I mean I can see gas mileage being better with a lighter tire? And wouldn't ball joint wear and other things be better with a lighter tire? I can see gearing being the only issue but besides that what are people's thoughts? Am I able to run the 37 inch tire on my jeep without upgrading anything because of a lower weight? Any help is appreciated!


Thanks :)

IDK how true this is in your case, but these are two major factors I encountered when choosing my tires For the ‘24 Easter Jeep Safari:

- My insurance guy is a Jeeper, and he informed me that putting 37s on my stock rims would be enough to void any warranty claims if the adjuster noticed. He strongly encouraged me to either get 35s, or do the thousands-worth of other mods necessary for 37s… so, I went with 35s.

- In choosing 35s, I was informed that “only Nitto Ridge Grapplers are warrantied for ‘said’ rim size,” so if there was any manufacturer defect, I’d either want Ridge Grapplers or a different wheel. (I should note that, at the time of purchase, the Ridge Grappler had been discontinued, and he didn’t yet have specs, in this regard, on the newer version: Recon Grapplers.)

As for the weight and stiffness… I don’t notice, but my mpgs dropped from around 18 to around 16 for daily driving (at 45psi). The one thing I did notice right away is that the 35s DO rub when I turn the wheel a seemingly-natural rotation. I quickly adjusted to make wider turns, so I don’t notice that any more unless I let someone else drive, but I’d imagine you would need to make even wider turns with 37s and no other mods.

As for the performance off-road… I’m in an “otherwise-stock” JT Rubicon, and I was fortunate enough to be the very-front vehicle (behind the Leader) for Porcupine Rim Trail all the way up until the lunch break. We had several prolonged rests before then, and then - right before lunch - the Leader walked up to me and asked if it’s okay to let another vehicle in front of us. I agreed, and after lunch I quickly figured out why they did that. It was a bone-stock JT Rubicon that couldn’t traverse the ledges without a tow strap (See ‘Yellow’ pic). It really made me value my purchase, as I had a little belly rub but never even worried about getting stuck.

So… IMO… go with 35s unless you’re definitely needing 37s and are ready to invest; but, what do I know, really? I’m just a newbie recycling info here.

Jeep Gladiator 37 inch vs my 33 inch. Same tire weight. Does Tire weight or Tire size matter more? IMG_3226


Jeep Gladiator 37 inch vs my 33 inch. Same tire weight. Does Tire weight or Tire size matter more? IMG_3225
 

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IDK how true this is in your case, but these are two major factors I encountered when choosing my tires For the ‘24 Easter Jeep Safari:

- My insurance guy is a Jeeper, and he informed me that putting 37s on my stock rims would be enough to void any warranty claims if the adjuster noticed. He strongly encouraged me to either get 35s, or do the thousands-worth of other mods necessary for 37s… so, I went with 35s.

- In choosing 35s, I was informed that “only Nitto Ridge Grapplers are warrantied for ‘said’ rim size,” so if there was any manufacturer defect, I’d either want Ridge Grapplers or a different wheel. (I should note that, at the time of purchase, the Ridge Grappler had been discontinued, and he didn’t yet have specs, in this regard, on the newer version: Recon Grapplers.)

As for the weight and stiffness… I don’t notice, but my mpgs dropped from around 18 to around 16 for daily driving (at 45psi). The one thing I did notice right away is that the 35s DO rub when I turn the wheel a seemingly-natural rotation. I quickly adjusted to make wider turns, so I don’t notice that any more unless I let someone else drive, but I’d imagine you would need to make even wider turns with 37s and no other mods.

As for the performance off-road… I’m in an “otherwise-stock” JT Rubicon, and I was fortunate enough to be the very-front vehicle (behind the Leader) for Porcupine Rim Trail all the way up until the lunch break. We had several prolonged rests before then, and then - right before lunch - the Leader walked up to me and asked if it’s okay to let another vehicle in front of us. I agreed, and after lunch I quickly figured out why they did that. It was a bone-stock JT Rubicon that couldn’t traverse the ledges without a tow strap (See ‘Yellow’ pic). It really made me value my purchase, as I had a little belly rub but never even worried about getting stuck.

So… IMO… go with 35s unless you’re definitely needing 37s and are ready to invest; but, what do I know, really? I’m just a newbie recycling info here.

IMG_3226.png


IMG_3225.png
some 37s are stated to fit 7.5 in wide rims. but you are right, if you put a tire on a rim size not stated by the manufacturer for use. definitely can cause insurance problems. Thats why i wnet mickey thompson, they state 17x7.5 wheel is a size spec'd for their 37x12.5. Its also an A/T with all the DOT approved goodies that most MTs won't come with. I've seen guys declared at fault for driving on stock size tires but no snow or ice rating (summer tires) while driving in snow and getting in a wreck. so there's a bit more to it than just tire size. as far as fitment, i crammed 37s on my stcok mojave with no lift and had no rubbing. I also did this on stock sport wheels (same factory offset as a rubicon) but added a 1in spacer to get around +20 offset. Jeeps come with massive wells, and its mind boggling to me when people ask if they can fit 35s or down. I came from Toyotas where you actually had to cut pieces of your frame off to fit true 33s. and 35s well, you ain't gonna be stock ever again, thats for sure. The rubicon is the only trim one should worry about with true 37in tires and no lift. because it can disconnect its swaybars, it can articulate much farther than a Mojave or sport. And that's where you start running into your rapid fender delete issue. personally I think 2in is excessive lift for anything but true 37s and larger. I'd do a fender chop rather than jack up my center of gravity if i wanted to tuck my 37s after getting a swaybar disconnect. Now outside the Mojave and Rubi, everyone else gets standard fenders which sit much lower. with that you can still get 37s on but only select ones and this is under the pretense of no swaybar disconnect. a BFG KO2 runs small for a 37 and would fit relatively easy. The point to all this, proper fitment requires proper offset/backspacing, and CAN require lift and bumpstops. If your rubbing on 35s, its most likely the plastic liner. you can either ziptie it tight to the frame and/or run a bit more offset. but i would recommend a lift of 1in or greater if you go 37s just cus your rubi has sway bar disconnect and can cycle a wheel that far up. hope this helps
 

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An OE designated AT tire isn't gonna perform like the original. Not a downside but just to make you aware. THe lighter you can keep your wheel and tire combo, the happier you'll be. Its more efficient, less wear, and less impact on the handling characteristics. But with Jeeps, you got a good bit of assembly weight to go before you cause immediate problems per se. Considering people can and are running 40s on heavy beadlocks on these axles with generally no issues. You probably fine no matter what you slap on. Barring insane offset and throwing scrub radius out the window. If your under 100 pounds per corner, thats a amazing. 110-140 is about avg and most would daily this and says it completely livable, maybe a regear to help it along too. go above 140 a corner and your probably a specific group of people that already know what they are doing and why they are doing it. But the average joe would be pretty annoyed to DD something like that for sure. To answer your question about ball joint wear, thats usually gonna be more impacted by what offset wheel you run than weight, but weight is still a factor. As long as you stay within a reasonable offset, your scrub radius should be fine and not stress the ball joints excessively. Ball joints are wear items though so don't expect them to last forever just cus u stay stock or light. Just pick a quality wheel or rock your 17in stocks and have fun. BTW the 37in KO2 is actually 35.5 inches tall roughly in its true height, so its one of the few tires that may not require a regear if you have 4.10s. Not that anything requires a regear, its usually decided off of use and personal tastes.
how was the measurement taken?
 

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The tire height.
I compare tires unmounted, i measure tires on truck for load height with the tire set at the psi it would be hot. so if you run 32psi, i'd inflate to 36-37 to mimic its pressure hot, then use that as my load height measurement. While this is shorter than unmounted. Its not relevant. The distance from the top of the tire to the fender is what your worried about clearance wise, and thats not under weight. load height is more important for programing your tire height to make sure it speedo's correctly. unmounted is to see how true to size different brands are. My MT Baja Boss A/Ts measured 36.6 unmounted. I also measured a K02 and it measured 35.5 unmounted. a 1in difference between two "37" inch tires.
 

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I compare tires unmounted, i measure tires on truck for load height with the tire set at the psi it would be hot. so if you run 32psi, i'd inflate to 36-37 to mimic its pressure hot, then use that as my load height measurement. While this is shorter than unmounted. Its not relevant. The distance from the top of the tire to the fender is what your worried about clearance wise, and thats not under weight. load height is more important for programing your tire height to make sure it speedo's correctly. unmounted is to see how true to size different brands are. My MT Baja Boss A/Ts measured 36.6 unmounted. I also measured a K02 and it measured 35.5 unmounted. a 1in difference between two "37" inch tires.
To get to the 36.5" that is quoted I'm guess they must be measuring the new tire mounted off the truck flat on the ground with max sidewall PSI with a straight edge based on your 35.5" unmounted.
 

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To get to the 36.5" that is quoted I'm guess they must be measuring the new tire mounted off the truck flat on the ground with max sidewall PSI with a straight edge based on your 35.5" unmounted.
yes, but by unmounted i mean not on a wheel either. tho i use a laser level cus i'm fancy. max psi would definitely bow tire to exceed the stated height. by like maybe a 1/4in?
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