Has anyone done the Aux Battery delete like this?

[caryt]

2021 Gladiator diesel Rubicon.
I may have missed something..Here is exactly what I did:
Removed #42 fuse..it was a 10 amp not a 5 as indicated ?
Removed the Aux battery and wrapped and isolated both terminals.
Traced the ground from the AUX it was the one on the stud wrapped and isolated it.
Removed the positive from the Aux and wrapped and isolated it..I think I wasn't supposed to do that as now I have nothing..no lights no start etc.

Its Got a Tazer mini and WTS fuction was off.
New Group 94R H7 Battery - Odyssey Performance 94R-850 sitting at 12.85v.

So..I did something incorrect and need help.

Thanks

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[sharpsicle]

2021 Gladiator diesel Rubicon.
I may have missed something..Here is exactly what I did:
Removed #42 fuse..it was a 10 amp not a 5 as indicated ?
Removed the Aux battery and wrapped and isolated both terminals.
Traced the ground from the AUX it was the one on the stud wrapped and isolated it.
Removed the positive from the Aux and wrapped and isolated it..I think I wasn't supposed to do that as now I have nothing..no lights no start etc.

Its Got a Tazer mini and WTS fuction was off.
New Group 94R H7 Battery - Odyssey Performance 94R-850 sitting at 12.85v.

So..I did something incorrect and need help.

Thanks

Sounds to me like you might have accidentally disconnected the wrong ground.

Since you've already removed the AUX positive entirely and there's no risk of a short, try reconnecting that ground and see if things work. That'll tell you for sure.

 

[caryt]

I'll check it again but I did ohm it out?
Thanks.

 

[caryt]

All good..working as it should, wrong ground.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Don't sweat the amperage number - I wonder if someone goofed when typing out the amperage of that F42 fuse.
The critical part to look at is the fuse map in the cover of the PDC. Forget the amperage..
Make sure it looks like this - Be sure it says PCR CTRL FEED - that's the relay that controls whether or not the aux battery is connected to the main battery system. Removing that fuse means the PCR relay can't trigger an open and cut the aux from the main for the PCM to do a fast check during the engine start sequence. It will believe the battery is still there.

 

[Tommyd]

Why would you? To what end? The aux battery ground goes to (drum roll, please) the main battery negative! You are just connecting BOTH ends of that same cable to the negative post if you do that.
Simply don't connect it to ANYTHING.
For the positive - no need. The main battery can power N1 through the PCR and other wiring where the aux battery sits. All you need to do is - again, drum roll (because this has been hashed to death here) - pull fuse F42, pull the aux negative off the top of the IBS and call it a day.

)You tube - sometimes I wish it would be bought up by some billionaire and just turned off.)

That guy is needlessly making more work for himself.
Just find the already long thread (and many others that reference the same process) and follow Jerry's simple aux battery bypass-
Pull fuse F42.
Take the aux battery negative cable off the top of the IBS which sits on the main battery negative terminal. Tie it out of the way.
Go have a beer and relax - that's all there is to it.

If you want to remove the battery - then remove it, and wrap up the cables where you removed the battery and leave them where they are. Just insulate them or make sure that they can't touch anything else.

So this means we don’t need to pull the fender liner? We just leave everything hooked up to the aux battery by just removing cable from the main battery? Thanks

 

[Nigelcorn]

Sorry to resurrect this, I tried to do this a bit ago and had no power after. Which negative terminal should I be disconnecting? I have a 21 eco diesel.

 

[Viper501]

So super frustrated right now with this process. I started getting more and more frequent aux switch unavailable notifications. My conclusion was that one or both batteries must be on their way out. I don’t use ESS so decided to do the aux delete by isolating both the positive and negative leads.

I have a 2022 Mojave with tow, cold weather, aux switches, etc. I went to NAPA and got a 94R H7 and went home to swap it out. Following the prior instructions I pulled the fuse, disconnected the negative and then positive wire cluster from each. I also removed the IBS completely and set it aside.

I tried to determine which of the leads went to the aux battery by using the multimeter. There was 12.4 volts on the combination of the negative lead with the post and the positive without. I was also able to confirm, or so I think, that the main ground wire was correct by checking resistance between the lead by the negative battery terminal and the ground cluster on the fender wall.

Having identified what I believed was the positive and negative for the aux battery I wrapped them in electrical tape and connected the main back up.

Nothing. Not even enough juice to turn on an interior light. Main is brand new and is showing 14.5 v across the poles.

I could not get anything to do anything.

I tried to swap the ground from the one I believe was for the main to the one for the aux. Nothing. Eventually I gave up and hooked the wires back up as before. Voila. Power.

Now the backup camera doesn’t want to work, even when using the screen to try to activate it. Also while the headlights are working just fine, the dash indicator is not coming on to show headlight activation. Marker light icon appears as well as high beams …

I’m attaching ‘after’ pictures of the electrical after connecting everything back up the way I found it, minus the old battery.

I’m pretty confident that it is operator error but would appreciate someone pointing me in the direction of the obvious

 

[Mr._Bill]

So super frustrated right now with this process. I started getting more and more frequent aux switch unavailable notifications. My conclusion was that one or both batteries must be on their way out. I don’t use ESS so decided to do the aux delete by isolating both the positive and negative leads.

I have a 2022 Mojave with tow, cold weather, aux switches, etc. I went to NAPA and got a 94R H7 and went home to swap it out. Following the prior instructions I pulled the fuse, disconnected the negative and then positive wire cluster from each. I also removed the IBS completely and set it aside.

I tried to determine which of the leads went to the aux battery by using the multimeter. There was 12.4 volts on the combination of the negative lead with the post and the positive without. I was also able to confirm, or so I think, that the main ground wire was correct by checking resistance between the lead by the negative battery terminal and the ground cluster on the fender wall.

Having identified what I believed was the positive and negative for the aux battery I wrapped them in electrical tape and connected the main back up.

Nothing. Not even enough juice to turn on an interior light. Main is brand new and is showing 14.5 v across the poles.

I could not get anything to do anything.

I tried to swap the ground from the one I believe was for the main to the one for the aux. Nothing. Eventually I gave up and hooked the wires back up as before. Voila. Power.

Now the backup camera doesn’t want to work, even when using the screen to try to activate it. Also while the headlights are working just fine, the dash indicator is not coming on to show headlight activation. Marker light icon appears as well as high beams …

I’m attaching ‘after’ pictures of the electrical after connecting everything back up the way I found it, minus the old battery.

I’m pretty confident that it is operator error but would appreciate someone pointing me in the direction of the obvious

Check the high current fuse array on the side of the fuse box. It's common to blow one of those if there are any shorts during the process. The ends of the battery cables need to be kept isolated.

The other issues should sort out within a day. The head unit can take up to 24 hours to fully recover from the power loss.

 

[Mr._Bill]

ESS remains active all the time, it cannot be disabled. Pulling the fuse just forces the startup test to look at the Main Battery instead of the Aux Battery. If the Main Battery is charged enough, ESS will still turn off the engine with the Aux missing.

 

[Viper501]

Check the high current fuse array on the side of the fuse box. It's common to blow one of those if there are any shorts during the process. The ends of the battery cables need to be kept isolated.

The other issues should sort out within a day. The head unit can take up to 24 hours to fully recover from the power loss.

If I’d blown one would I be able to start and drive like normal once the aux was put back into the mix? I was super careful to try to avoid blowing one of those.

The head unit is working on it I think. The backup camera still isn’t working when put in reverse but at least I can force it manually now through the head unit pages.

 

[Viper501]

ESS remains active all the time, it cannot be disabled. Pulling the fuse just forces the startup test to look at the Main Battery instead of the Aux Battery. If the Main Battery is charged enough, ESS will still turn off the engine with the Aux missing.

ESS is ‘disabled’ by my installation of the start-stop fixer. I just want to get the aux out of the loop to keep it from eating my new battery since it serves no useful purpose in my use case.

 

[Mr._Bill]

ESS is ‘disabled’ by my installation of the start-stop fixer. I just want to get the aux out of the loop to keep it from eating my new battery since it serves no useful purpose in my use case.

That's largely a myth perpetuated by the internet. The Aux Battery is more likely to outlast the Main Battery. Whether or not it becomes a drain on the Main Battery depends on the state of failure.

The Main Battery in my first Gladiator lasted 3.5 years from the Build Date. The Aux Battery lasted four years. It then rode around dead for six months before I got around to replacing it.

 

[Eternity]

I know this isn't the exact question, but with lots of little tweaks and mods and mistakes killing the batteries, I'm replacing both of them....HOWEVER...I'm putting the AUX back in and using a high AMP remote switch I got on Amazon to use the AUX as a built in jump start battery. Remove will connect, start up, run a bit to recharge the AUX and then disconnect with remote. I like this better than carrying a spare jumper. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BLH9VMW6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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