Minty JL
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Jeremy
- Joined
- May 15, 2019
- Threads
- 25
- Messages
- 4,801
- Reaction score
- 7,628
- Location
- Ft Meade, MD - AOR
- Vehicle(s)
- 23 JTM - 19 JLUR - 22 Compass LTD - 04 355 ZQ8
- Occupation
- USA(R), DoD - Dirty Contractor
Its doesn't take a rocket surgeon to figure it out. Countless videos on YT if you find yourself in a bind. If you find it necessary to disconnect the Apex end links, just disconnect them on the axle end and you should be fine; because Yes, it can be a pain in the dick to tighten them up top side with the allen wrench and another wrench.Ok...yeah the brake line brackets and the connector on the dif. What I'm trying to avoid is loosening control arm brackets or my Apex...guess we will see. I hate doing torque + angle. Maybe it's time I buy a Snap On Tech Angle.
I am a God on electronics and tech.... not a suspension guy. I have a mid-range impact ( Dewalt DCF891B ) that will break loose anything on the Jeep and a 250lb 1/2" torque wrench....this will be my first time messing with a Jeep suspension. =D
As far as torques to angle, hit your initial torque value and then eyeball the angle. When I build LS motors I skip that angle shit with the hardware I use. Since every manufacture love to use the ToY hardware which is trash after a single use; I go with ARP Hardware......yes its a couple more dollars up front, but you can reuse it and there is no angle shit in the torque sequence. For example an aluminum block LS, first round at 25ftlbs in order, then 50ftlbs in order and finish with 70ftlbs in order; an Iron block has different torque ratings.
Only time I really concern my self with torque values is when I'm build long blocks, clutches or transfer case, everything else I torque to feel. Been wrenching for almost 40 years and hasn't failed me yet.
If you have any questions throw them up in here or shoot me a DM
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