Truck Died Last Night on a Main Thoroughfare, replacing batteries in 2 hrs or so, what may be needed? (Details in thread)

[ShadowsPapa]

Main: 14.3V
N2: 13.6V
N3: 9.89V
N7: 0 V

Oops.

N2 and N3 should read the same with everything connected and truck running.

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[Lost1wing]

Your n7 should have 14.3 since your main reads 14.3. Try touching the cable instead of the threaded stud. That 9.89v on n3 is not good. N1 should read about the same then. N3 fuse looks to be blown. Verify like ShadowsPapa mentioned by removing it and do a continuity test with your meter. You can remove the cables and isolate them carefully. Mark them where they go.

 

[tjk]

To clarify (sorry, want to ensure I do it correctly) mark all N# leads, remove all but three, test resistance between N3 and negative battery post on main.

sorry if I seem a bit thick, just trying to do things correctly so I’m not misleading or wasting your time (which is very appreciated for helping me.)

 

[Lost1wing]

To clarify (sorry, want to ensure I do it correctly) mark all N# leads, remove all but three, test resistance between N3 and negative battery post on main.

sorry if I seem a bit thick, just trying to do things correctly so I’m not misleading or wasting your time (which is very appreciated for helping me.)

Skip to 2:09

 

[Lost1wing]

To clarify (sorry, want to ensure I do it correctly) mark all N# leads, remove all but three, test resistance between N3 and negative battery post on main.

sorry if I seem a bit thick, just trying to do things correctly so I’m not misleading or wasting your time (which is very appreciated for helping me.)

If you remove all of the terminals, just pull it out and test it. I sent a link for a YT video of what you need to do. I have all night. I'm just waiting for tomorrow's morning coffee.

 

[Lost1wing]

If you remove all of the terminals, just pull it out and test it. I sent a link for a YT video of what you need to do. I have all night. I'm just waiting for tomorrow's morning coffee.

Those wire will be hot! N1 n2 n3!!!

 

[tjk]

Skip to 2:09

Perfect, thanks!

 

[jebiruph]

Main: 14.3V
N2: 13.6V
N3: 9.89V
N7: 0 V

I can't explain all those voltages, but it looks like the N3 fuse is blown. The N4 terminal is rarely used, you can move the N3 wire to the N4 terminal (also a 150A fuse) to see if that resolves the issue.

 

[Lost1wing]

I can't explain all those voltages, but it looks like the N3 fuse is blown. The N4 terminal is rarely used, you can move the N3 wire to the N4 terminal (also a 150A fuse) to see if that resolves the issue.

I can't explain the n7! It should be the same or close to the main and n2. Has to be. I was going to mention N4 to him as a temp solution. I think verifying with a meter is a better idea right now because if N3 is blown, we dont know why. We can assume it was from the battery swap, but you never know.

 

[tjk]

Your n7 should have 14.3 since your main reads 14.3. Try touching the cable instead of the threaded stud. That 9.89v on n3 is not good. N1 should read about the same then. N3 fuse looks to be blown. Verify like ShadowsPapa mentioned by removing it and do a continuity test with your meter. You can remove the cables and isolate them carefully. Mark them where they go.

By the time I got to test it, the batteries were so weak I opted to pull the leads from them so hopefully the Aux didn't completely discharge. All this work I was doing on a side street, and it was time to help with the kiddos so I had to take the path that seemed most likely to find an outcome, which was testing the full array.

I can't explain all those voltages, but it looks like the N3 fuse is blown. The N4 terminal is rarely used, you can move the N3 wire to the N4 terminal (also a 150A fuse) to see if that resolves the issue.

Winner winner chicken dinner, the N3 fuse on the array is cooked. I wish I'd seen this earlier about moving over to N4, but that's ok because at least I know what part I need to get.

I can't explain the n7! It should be the same or close to the main and n2. Has to be. I was going to mention N4 to him as a temp solution. I think verifying with a meter is a better idea right now because if N3 is blown, we dont know why. We can assume it was from the battery swap, but you never know.

The video was great, once I saw the makeup of the fuse array itself, I knew what the others had meant about the testing.

 

[tjk]

I was slowly throughout the day able to limp the truck bit by bit closer to home. Because it was in a downtown area, it was a pain to run back and forth for items. Every time would be a half hour trip. All things considered not bad, but not ideal when I've got to get kids on and off the bus, things of that nature.

The truck is now resting about ½ mile from my house, easy walking distance, and in view of a house of some friends from my kids school. Once there I pulled the main battery, removed all the N terminals and marked them with a P Touch, and I wrapped the N1 with electrical tape because I won't be able to take that battery out until tomorrow afternoon at the earliest. I just left the main battery cables hanging out in the battery tray, they're pretty far from contacting anything.

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions so far. I'm currently charging the main battery to 100%, and hopefully tomorrow afternoon I'll have time to get the other battery out (I find the method via the wheel well easiest.) With some luck I'll have a new fuse array in hand by the weekend, but can use the bypass method to at least see if I can get it back to my street.

For reinstallation, I had planned to wire N7 reverse order through N1. Then unplug IBS sensor install Aux Battery + then -, install main battery + then -, and finally plug IDS sensor back in.

Off to the forums to see the benefits of knock off fuse arrays versus Mopar.

Thanks again everyone! I'll be sure to keep the thread updated in case some poor fellow like me has the same issue and is googling random terms.

 

[Lost1wing]

I have a better idea on your situation and the inconvenience to test and charge.

To get it back home, reinstall the fuse array and the cables. Be sure to put the n3 cable on the n4 terminal with the other cable that was already on n4. You can remove the aux ground from the main battery neg top plate and tape it up. Pull f42 fuse. This will keep the pcr from opening and seeing that your Aux is not connected. Reinstall the main battery. Reconnect the fender ground or the other end at the main battery, which ever you had disconnected. Reinstall the ibs connector, as it should have been disconnected. You should be able to start and drive home without issue. Once home, disconnect the fender ground, connect your battery charger positive to the main battery positive and connect the charger negative to that cable you have taped up and isolated. No need to pull the aux battery when it is isolated like this. You will only be charging the Aux. Now since you did drive the vehicle home, before putting the charger away and connecting the aux cable to the main neg, charge the main battery again. It shouldn't take too long. While it is charging, disconnect the ibs connector again. Once the charging is complete, reconnect the aux negative to the main neg top plate, reinstall f42, reinstall the fender ground and reconnect the ibs connector.

Removing the fender ground and covering it reduces the chance of shorts to ground. It also removes the ground for both batteries at the same time.

Once your new fuse array comes in, disconnect the fender negative and cover it. Remove the old fuse array and install the new fuse array just remember to put the n3 cable back on the N3 terminal . Reinstall the fender ground. You will see some sparks so don't worry. You shouldn't need to do anything else.

 

[LouisvEarlleJT]

Heads up you may have to purchase from a dealer or "moparparts" type place. I had one of those big fuses blow on a compass and when I tried to get one at o'reilly, autozone, napa, etc. they all told me they didn't carry them. (which prompted me to buy two to have a spare)

 

[tjk]

Heads up you may have to purchase from a dealer or "moparparts" type place. I had one of those big fuses blow on a compass and when I tried to get one at o'reilly, autozone, napa, etc. they all told me they didn't carry them. (which prompted me to buy two to have a spare)

amazon had the exact part number, wondering how bad the knock off could be?

 

[LouisvEarlleJT]

amazon had the exact part number, wondering how bad the knock off could be?

It’s probably legit, my point was that I only found em online so you should be good to go!

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