Replacing both batteries

[Gren71]

The confusion is caused by the missing digit. The readings should be 14.2 and 13.8, not 4.2 and 3.8.

I've always had good luck with NAPA batteries. Lately, I go to Sam's Club because they are closer (1 mile) and usually less expensive, but they don't carry the AUX14 battery.

Looooooong day at work hahaha I didn’t even realize i skipped an entire digit…appreciate ya breaking it down dummy style for me!

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[ShadowsPapa]

The confusion is caused by the missing digit. The readings should be 14.2 and 13.8, not 4.2 and 3.8.

I've always had good luck with NAPA batteries. Lately, I go to Sam's Club because they are closer (1 mile) and usually less expensive, but they don't carry the AUX14 battery.

Ah, ok. No V or 1 in front.

The problem is that that's going to be running system voltage - no indication of battery health or even SoC.

You can hit the button and not start the truck and check the voltage in the cluster display (that would be battery, not alternator output at that point) - I think it's page 5 where the tire pressure, coolant temp, etc. are - will show voltage.
Or use a volt meter directly on the crank battery.

I've always figured AGM batteries last longer but I've checked the FAQs and Q&A of some battery sites and did some digging and the common answer is AGM batteries last about 4 years, 3 if in hot climates or not kept charged up.
Wow, I've had standard lead-acid wet batteries last over 12 years! Most last me 5 to 7 years.

Anyway, I'm convinced these trucks don't charge batteries correctly. All of the driving I've done in the last 2 days and mine is still trying to charge them and yet with a good charger, I can fully top them off in less time.

 

[Gren71]

Ah, ok. No V or 1 in front.

The problem is that that's going to be running system voltage - no indication of battery health or even SoC.

You can hit the button and not start the truck and check the voltage in the cluster display (that would be battery, not alternator output at that point) - I think it's page 5 where the tire pressure, coolant temp, etc. are - will show voltage.
Or use a volt meter directly on the crank battery.

I've always figured AGM batteries last longer but I've checked the FAQs and Q&A of some battery sites and did some digging and the common answer is AGM batteries last about 4 years, 3 if in hot climates or not kept charged up.
Wow, I've had standard lead-acid wet batteries last over 12 years! Most last me 5 to 7 years.

Anyway, I'm convinced these trucks don't charge batteries correctly. All of the driving I've done in the last 2 days and mine is still trying to charge them and yet with a good charger, I can fully top them off in less time.

After 2hrs of none stop driving i figured id check the battery gauge with the truck engine off…12.6v

 

[ShadowsPapa]

After 2hrs of none stop driving i figured id check the battery gauge with the truck engine off…12.6v

Probably not bad considering there's a load on the batteries in modern vehicles at all times.

 

[Gren71]

Sooooo

swapped the batteries.

Driving in this morning the battery stayed at 12.7v the entire time. I was thinking maybe it would charge during the drive but it didn't... DId I mess up here? Or is this about right since the battery is a 12v battery according to the napa website info.

 

[Hootbro]

At a stop and idling, monitor the voltage and put a demand on it like turning on your lights and high beams. That should kick in the on demand charge system to start charging at a higher voltage.

I think your new batteries are fine and just were maintained properly on the shelf before being sold to you.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

At a stop and idling, monitor the voltage and put a demand on it like turning on your lights and high beams. That should kick in the on demand charge system to start charging at a higher voltage.

I think your new batteries are fine and just were maintained properly on the shelf before being sold to you.

Yeah, if they were fully properly charged before a person received them, they should need nothing.

Sooooo

swapped the batteries.

Driving in this morning the battery stayed at 12.7v the entire time. I was thinking maybe it would charge during the drive but it didn't... DId I mess up here? Or is this about right since the battery is a 12v battery according to the napa website info.

They always kick the voltage up after a start, then settle in based on battery temperature, the IBS state of charge and so on. But, if you correctly left the IBS disconnected for several minutes, the system goes into a default until the IBS learns again - so you can't go by the first couple of drives or so.
** As far as how long that takes - see the below clip because it's more than just a matter of time or how many drives you make.

Ideally, before anyone puts in new batteries:
Make sure both batteries are 100% - voltage at 12.7 or greater. Some brands suggest their full SoC open circuit voltage should be 12.8 as high as 13.0
Use a charger capable of proper AGM charging (there are different phases, and different voltages and currents at each phase)

Leave the IBS disconnected from any power source for several minutes - I've seen from 5 to 15 mentioned depending on the documentation, the source/maker of the IBS, and other factors.
I error on the side of making bloody sure and usually go at least 15 minutes but then I'm paranoid and OCD about this stuff.

Install batteries, install IBS, always charge through the IBS, never blind charging.

Be careful about that voltage mentioned - almost all automotive batteries since the late 50s have been "12 volt" batteries. Even the wet cell lead acid batteries are technically 12.6 when fully charged. AGM batteries are even higher, bordering on 13 volts
Take the battery in a 1990 Anycar made by your favorite car maker - it's a 12 volt battery, but if it measures 12 volts, it's about half charged.
There are 6 cells and each cell produces 2.1 volts. 2.1 x 6 gives you the 12.6 volts.
The AGM battery produce over 2.1 volts per cell - thus the 12.8 when fully charged.
If your battery measures 12 volts, it's 60% discharged, less than 40% charged.
No 12 volt wet battery should measure 12 volts.
They just call them 12 volt batteries as opposed to 6, 8, 12 or 24 volt batteries.
Even a 6 volt battery isn't 6 volts - it's 6.3 when fully charged.

12 volt is how they are sold or marketed or listed, but they'd better be higher than that.

**
This is directly from MOPAR's STAR people -

One document that appears to be assembled by someone else states 5 cycles but I have not seen it take that long personally, and since the above is from a 2020 STAR document, I'd trust it more.
But I also keep in mind - there have been roughly 4 iterations of the IBS used by FCA.
Key cycles do not include remote starts, only normal "get in vehicle, push button on dash to start" type starts.


A battery is not a battery is not a battery is not a battery - even AGM has multiple types -

Note that B1 and B2 types and A2 are the only ones that mention ESS - the others FCA apparently doesn't deem fit for ESS?

 

[Gren71]

Yeah, if they were fully properly charged before a person received them, they should need nothing.



They always kick the voltage up after a start, then settle in based on battery temperature, the IBS state of charge and so on. But, if you correctly left the IBS disconnected for several minutes, the system goes into a default until the IBS learns again - so you can't go by the first couple of drives or so.
** As far as how long that takes - see the below clip because it's more than just a matter of time or how many drives you make.

Ideally, before anyone puts in new batteries:
Make sure both batteries are 100% - voltage at 12.7 or greater. Some brands suggest their full SoC open circuit voltage should be 12.8 as high as 13.0
Use a charger capable of proper AGM charging (there are different phases, and different voltages and currents at each phase)

Leave the IBS disconnected from any power source for several minutes - I've seen from 5 to 15 mentioned depending on the documentation, the source/maker of the IBS, and other factors.
I error on the side of making bloody sure and usually go at least 15 minutes but then I'm paranoid and OCD about this stuff.

Install batteries, install IBS, always charge through the IBS, never blind charging.

Be careful about that voltage mentioned - almost all automotive batteries since the late 50s have been "12 volt" batteries. Even the wet cell lead acid batteries are technically 12.6 when fully charged. AGM batteries are even higher, bordering on 13 volts
Take the battery in a 1990 Anycar made by your favorite car maker - it's a 12 volt battery, but if it measures 12 volts, it's about half charged.
There are 6 cells and each cell produces 2.1 volts. 2.1 x 6 gives you the 12.6 volts.
The AGM battery produce over 2.1 volts per cell - thus the 12.8 when fully charged.
If your battery measures 12 volts, it's 60% discharged, less than 40% charged.
No 12 volt wet battery should measure 12 volts.
They just call them 12 volt batteries as opposed to 6, 8, 12 or 24 volt batteries.
Even a 6 volt battery isn't 6 volts - it's 6.3 when fully charged.

12 volt is how they are sold or marketed or listed, but they'd better be higher than that.

**
This is directly from MOPAR's STAR people -

One document that appears to be assembled by someone else states 5 cycles but I have not seen it take that long personally, and since the above is from a 2020 STAR document, I'd trust it more.
But I also keep in mind - there have been roughly 4 iterations of the IBS used by FCA.
Key cycles do not include remote starts, only normal "get in vehicle, push button on dash to start" type starts.


A battery is not a battery is not a battery is not a battery - even AGM has multiple types -

Note that B1 and B2 types and A2 are the only ones that mention ESS - the others FCA apparently doesn't deem fit for ESS?

First off..papa...youre the man!

I NEVER knew the whole battery cycle for new batteries. Very cool to know. With that in mine ive had two "cycles" so far. Ill keep an eye out and see of the voltage changes.

any idea where the "type" would be on the battery? Looking at the info on the NAPA page it doesnt specify, at least as far as I can see. I know "the label" is the obvious answer. Just curious if its one of those weird designations that is molded into the plastic in a weird place.

 

[exfil offroad]

Im at 70k miles and i think its time to replace my batteries. The last couple times I towed by curt app would say the battery was low. So I started watching it. Regularly the power would drop to 3.6- 3.8 while sitting at a light. But it would jump to 4.2 - 4.6 while driving.

After this last trip, while driving in to work this morning and not towing, I decided to take a look at the battery. While driving, with no trailer attached, The battery stayed at a constant 3.4.

The only "symptom" ive had so far is that i occasionally get a message saying my front blinker is out...when it is not...the LED works fine for a little before saying it doesnt.

Ive read in the foums that some slightly larger batteries will fit. Here are the links of what I am looking at. Can some one just provide a little piece of mind in telling me that I looking at the right ones.

main battery
https://www.autozone.com/batteries-...p-battery-dh7-group-size-7-880-cca/937710_0_0

or

https://www.odysseybattery.com/products/odp-agm94r-h7-l4-battery-94r-850/

small startup battery
https://www.autozone.com/batteries-...atinum-agm-auxiliary-battery-aux14/755654_0_0



Ive watched a could videos on how to change them and feel confident in doing it my self. My question is will I loose my radio settings and/or PCM settings with BOTH batteries disconnected? I saw in one of the videos where a fella connected a trickle charger to the main batter connections and left that running while he replaced the secondary battery. seemed logical to me, but im certainly no expert.

When I replaced my wranglers batteries, I didn’t lose settings

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I've not yet found the specifics on this particular battery other than it keeps popping up as dual purpose, and that sort of thing. It looks like it can handle a lot of "cycles" compared to others.
That means it can be run low - not fully charged every time (oh, like these Jeeps do to batteries HA) and it will still hold up. Some have said up to 900 cycles compared to a typical 400-500.

It's a pretty well respected battery.

 

[KVJ]

@Gren71

How is everything running? I want to change mine as well and will go with the NAPA batteries if you give me the nod. If your having troubles let me know.

Kenny

 

[Gren71]

@Gren71

How is everything running? I want to change mine as well and will go with the NAPA batteries if you give me the nod. If your having troubles let me know.

Kenny

No issues at all. The random light outages that started me down the path of changing batteries have stopped.
I also learned about jeeps smart charge (or whatever the name is) where it is okay to have a reading of 12.4v and so on.

 

[KVJ]

Matthew
@Gren71

I bought my Sport S Max Tow in July 2019. I've had no problems with it. It's been three years and I've been concerned about the battery having read the many post here.

The other day when I went to start it, the button did not respond and on the dash it told be the fob was not in proximity of the vehicle but it was with me. Also told me I could start it buy putting the fob on the start button. In stead I went and got the other fob and tried it and the same response. So I used the fob to push the start button and the truck started. My mind raced about the battery. I did my running around and the truck started up normally afterwards. However when I went to call my wife the phone was no longer paired and I had to speak in the phone.

I remember in one of the treads somebody said there truck acted goofy or something with the dash icons.

I'm going to making a trip pulling my camper the end of August and don't want any surprises.

I will order tyhe Napa batteries tomorrow.

I also PM'd Shadowspapa and shared this with him for any advise.

 

[Scrubb84]

Anyway, I'm convinced these trucks don't charge batteries correctly. All of the driving I've done in the last 2 days and mine is still trying to charge them and yet with a good charger, I can fully top them off in less time.

Would leaving the IBS disconnected possibly solve this issue then?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

No. It would make things worse and probably shorten battery life. Resetting it can help.

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