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Stock LCAs to Mopar Extended LCAs - Caster Change

HAMP

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After I did my AEV 2" I noticed a bit of wobble around 50-55mph, along with quite a bit of wandering and sidetracking. I swapped out my stock LCAs for the Mopar extended ones as well as adjustable trac bars. Now it rides better than it did when I drove it home from the stealership.
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Louie4

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I neglected to mention that I had death wobble. Like REAL death wobble. I have had my YJ for 25 years and know shimmy’s but never legit about to die DW like my Gladiator had. Anyway, the dealer put on the all steel box and mounting bolts and aligned it. Then the drag link was bad at the pitman arm. Shocks were bad. So new LCA’s and another alignment is welcome.
 

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I put the moper arms on with my Moper lift and got 6 deg caster. Then I added JKS geo brackets and now I probably have 7-8 deg caster and it's even better on the freeway. No front DS issues,,, yet.
 

mgw750

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Help me to understand why someone would buy the Mopar control arms instead of buying a decent set of adjustable control arms. Quality adjustable control arms have better ends and are much stronger and can be adjusted to any length, also allowing you to lift the vehicle more later. My ride improved tremendously when I went from the stock control arms to the Core 4x4 Crawl control arms. The Johnny Joints really stiffened things up and got rid of the stock bounciness that the suspension had.

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Over kill and a waste of money on what these people are trying to accomplish.
 

Stan H

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After I did my AEV 2" I noticed a bit of wobble around 50-55mph, along with quite a bit of wandering and sidetracking. I swapped out my stock LCAs for the Mopar extended ones as well as adjustable trac bars. Now it rides better than it did when I drove it home from the stealership.
And thats why when I did my Lift I got all that stuff in advance and changed LCA's Travk bars , springs , Tie rod and linkage and Never experienced any change except no more bottoming out . The Rubicon factory springs are way way too soft.
 

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Badunit

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I changed out he front stock LCAs to the Mopar Performance Extended LCAs. Not to hard, other than the damn torque when putting the bolts back in.
Not so bad if you use the factory specification that is torque+angle and use an impact wrench to do the angle part of it. 2023 service manual has them as 103 ft-lb + 145 degrees
 

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Then I added JKS geo brackets and now I probably have 7-8 deg caster and it's even better on the freeway.
You are getting into caster wobble territory that high - it's TOO high and yes, there is such a thing!
 

D_JT

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Not so bad if you use the factory specification that is torque+angle and use an impact wrench to do the angle part of it. 2023 service manual has them as 103 ft-lb + 145 degrees

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I installed them at ride height and torqued them to German spec, "gutentight". When converted over is about 3-4 ugga duggas from the 1/2" impact. Zero issues.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Not so bad if you use the factory specification that is torque+angle and use an impact wrench to do the angle part of it. 2023 service manual has them as 103 ft-lb + 145 degrees
Too many are stuck in that 190 world, an antique torque number they used many years ago that has been copied and pasted that many years, never updated to the factory number.

It's also not bad at all if you use extensions and a jack stand next to the vehicle for the rear LCA bolt. I was able to get to the fronts between the bumper and front of my JT with a long bar.
The uppers, that's another story.
 

Stan H

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I installed them at ride height and torqued them to German spec, "gutentight". When converted over is about 3-4 ugga duggas from the 1/2" impact. Zero issues.
Seen some internet hero with jackstands under his frame and axle and installed and tightened all control arms on Jackstands. As soon as He did that I went to another video.

The Control arms should be tightened with wheels on sitting on the ground no jacks ,no jackstands. Have all bolts inserted and nuts on just to the metal. No more than slightly snug. Then tighten after its at normal ride height.
Guy was talking about how he was experiencing deathwobble etc.. I was like I wonder why ..
 

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ShadowsPapa

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Seen some internet hero with jackstands under his frame and axle and installed and tightened all control arms on Jackstands. As soon as He did that I went to another video.

The Control arms should be tightened with wheels on sitting on the ground no jacks ,no jackstands. Have all bolts inserted and nuts on just to the metal. No more than slightly snug. Then tighten after its at normal ride height.
Guy was talking about how he was experiencing deathwobble etc.. I was like I wonder why ..
There's one reason I thought about a 4 post lift - it's like it is sitting on the ground, but you can stand under it.
 

Stan H

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There's one reason I thought about a 4 post lift - it's like it is sitting on the ground, but you can stand under it.
Yeah if the guy had that it may have been much better I was like this guy is spreading misinformation. Got to love those You-Tube jeep influencers. Its no wonder why there is so much disinformation on here.
 

Gizmo

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Not into rock crawling is an uninformed excuse for not buying better arms . The joints are ALSO a big improvement on the street as far as wandering which many don't realize how much steering correction you subconsciously do. Eliminating many of the Clevite OE type bushings helps. Lower control arm bushings and track bar bushings in particular . Like they say you don't know how good is until you try . You will be surprised. Lower control arms and track bar will make a difference , you don't need all of the arms replaced for the street but those will make a difference especially if you add larger tires and who don't do that .
 

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I tighten the lca bolts with a impact then drive the JL/JT on Race Ramps that lifts it 8".
It's allot easier to use the torque wrench to crank it to the 190 ft. lbs. I too have used the floor jack under the torque wrench too pump it up until it clicks. lol
 

Stan H

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I tighten the lca bolts with a impact then drive the JL/JT on Race Ramps that lifts it 8".
It's allot easier to use the torque wrench to crank it to the 190 ft. lbs. I too have used the floor jack under the torque wrench too pump it up until it clicks. lol
Be my luck thing would snap and break .
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