New gladiator diesel owner- suggestions for budget oriented overland build

[John in the Woods]

I’ve got 130K on the Mopar lift with Fox shocks. I don’t tow, but I run heavy with full overlanding gear and I run light on technical trails. 50k on 35s. 80k on 37s. The kit has never let me down.

Second the recommendation on an upgraded steering dampener. Get a relocator kit too.

Sponsored

 

[Iddpaul]

I have the Clayton 2.5" diesel springs in front plus the JKS adjustable spring seats with hydraulic bump stops. That gives my about 4.25" in the front. 3.5" Clayton rear springs. That raised the rear to 4". If the front sags. I can adjust it back up with the JKS kit. 2years and 20,000+ miles on it.

I 've had several lifts in the past (EVO. MC) and this time did the same as RustyPW on my JT. Went with Clayton diesel springs / kit 2.5" in front with JKS adjustable hydraulic bump stops so that I can adjust the lift and level everything and 3.5" HD diesel springs in the rear. Trussed the front axle, RCV's chrome/moly axles in rear. Really like the ride and handling.

 

[DOGtau]

The first thing to do is delete it. Diesels are destroyed by EGR and diaper. Plan on trading it in before 100K, if you don’t. Based on experience with Ecodiesel in a Ram.

 

[Tennessee Gobi]

I’m running the Rock Krawler 3” Diesel specific lift on my JTRD that I built for Overlanding and have been real happy with it. I’m running a Canopy, RTT and Awning along with the AAL drawers and slides in the bed and it handles the additional weight great.

 

[Metalcloak]

Hello yall, coming over from owning a JL on 37s with a 3.5 MC game changer lift, looking for suggestions on the best route for diesel specific Lift. I loved the metal cloak lift on my JL and the articulation but didn’t like how soft the rock sport shocks were and don’t see a diesel specific lift on their site.

Thank you... we do have Diesel Specific Options within the Game-Changer kits.

 

[sparks702]

Thank you... we do have Diesel Specific Options within the Game-Changer kits.

Is it the dual rate

Thank you... we do have Diesel Specific Options within the Game-Changer kits.

is it the dual rated spring option or do i just have to select diesel motor on options ? Are the diesel springs a different spring rate or similar to the gas springs with just more height ? Want to maintain a mostly level stance while always having the tent mounted.

 

[djthumper]

If I were doing it again, I would go with Metal Cloak, https://metalcloak.com/jeep-jt-gladiator-2-5-true-dual-rate-lift-kit.html

I am only on 35s, I am guessing you will go up to 37s and probably regear at some point.

Mine has been a budget build, if you ever want to meet up and see what I have done so far.

 

[Metalcloak]

Is it the dual rate

is it the dual rated spring option or do i just have to select diesel motor on options ? Are the diesel springs a different spring rate or similar to the gas springs with just more height ? Want to maintain a mostly level stance while always having the tent mounted.

Just select Diesel Motor option - that puts together the right recipe for your rig.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Just select Diesel Motor option - that puts together the right recipe for your rig.

You didn't really answer the questions though?

Transparency and providing the information builds trust in your brand?

 

[Metalcloak]

You didn't really answer the questions though?

Transparency and providing the information builds trust in your brand?

LOL... is that a statement or a question...

The most important part of his question was answered... how to select.

As for the coils there is no such thing as diesel coils or gas coils. There are only coils with different rates. On some rigs those coils sit higher than others. The proper recipe of coils and isolators is how we define all our set ups.

On another note... we do not focus on a level stance with our suspensions. By default we will have the same rake as factory which allows for leveling out when you add weight to the rear.

My personal Gladiator (3.6 Rubi) is running the 3.5" GC with our full Overcab rack system and runs both a spare on the BakPack as well as an iKamper tent and maintains level when loaded.

- Matson

 

[CrazyCooter]

LOL... is that a statement or a question...

The most important part of his question was answered... how to select.

As for the coils there is no such thing as diesel coils or gas coils. There are only coils with different rates. On some rigs those coils sit higher than others. The proper recipe of coils and isolators is how we define all our set ups.

On another note... we do not focus on a level stance with our suspensions. By default we will have the same rake as factory which allows for leveling out when you add weight to the rear.

My personal Gladiator (3.6 Rubi) is running the 3.5" GC with our full Overcab rack system and runs both a spare on the BakPack as well as an iKamper tent and maintains level when loaded.

- Matson

Personally, I view this response as more smoke and mirrors. A person will have to just purchase and test for themselves whether they will be satisfied.

The response I'm looking for is more along the lines of:
"For our gas lift kits we use xxx spring rate with an free length of xx.xx"

"For our diesel lifts we use xxx spring rate with a free length of xx.xx in combination a 3/4" spacer"

"This nets a 4.1" lift over a new stock height truck that settles to right at 3.5" after the springs take a set"

"For the rear we use xxx rate for the users who run mostly unloaded, but for the people who run up to 1000lb cargo we recomend our HD springs which have a rate of xxx"

I've already had discussions with Will and now Mike on why I can't recomend your suspension kits to my clients. You guys are so close to the shop and would love to keep business local, but between your extremly aggressive direct retail marketing and lack of trasparency......I just cant in good faith look at my client and tell them " We have to pass this bill, so you can find out what's in it". There were just too many issues with loaded sagging JTs running yours and other springs back in the day that I can't sell any of them without knowing what I'm selling.

What you run in your truck isn't really helpful to me without the numbers? I need to know the rates and the free length so I can calculate both the loaded/unloaded ride heights and then the ride frequency so that I can tune the shocks appropriately. I have a certain way I expect a vehicle to ride and drive that I have yet to see with any combination I have sampled running your products.

Mike has written to me that MC will now share the spring rates, but I have to call? Why not just put the specs on your website? It's not all that difficult for anyone to just buy a set of your springs, test, and copy them IF they really wanted to, so why the secrecy? It's just twisted metal?

 

[3VOLVE]

I run Clayton’s 3.5” front and heavy duty rears to handle the extra weight of my overlanding setup, Alu-Cab canopy, rooftop tent with canopy, and Decked system. Just completed the Rubicon last month and quite frankly, the Clayton’s did their job!

 

[brsnow2585]

Friendly warning, y'all probably know anyways, watch out for progressive springs. I had my Rubi diesel for almost 2 years, took me a year to run down the Mopar lift kit that wasn't available when I ordered my truck. It's a different ride with progressive springs, and if you're hauling or pulling a trailer, take it easy until you get the feel. Also on the Rubicon JT, get the Fox 2.0 steering damper, made night and day difference. I started having wobbly issues, loaded and unloaded but they all seemed to coalesce around a temperature and a speed. I still get some wobble but I can feel that's from sitting 3 inches higher on the factory 33 tires, I'm going to metric 35 tires next, still factory wheels, not looking to regear anytime soon, I get pretty good mileage as is

Ok so after a recent event I want to revise a couple things from my earlier post ^.....

I said watch out for progressive springs, I should have said 'be aware' they have a soft top for a smooth ride until you get into the loaded range, it can feel squishy unloaded

Steering damper, I stand by what I said.

I am thinking that when I got my JT from the factory and things started to settle in, it came with an alignment that was probably out on the edge of the pass zone. I had it aligned at a dealer after I did the Mopar lift, stepped up the stabilizer better but was still a little quirky. My passenger u joint decided to make a messy exit a couple weeks ago, just got back from the dealer 2 days ago, after rebuilding the passenger side axle all the way out, the alignment they were able to get afterwards was night and day different and kinda surprised the shop tech. I have a common route I drive and know where the bumps that used to set of the hoppy or shimmy, made a point to hit those, some faster than others as the first few gave passing results. Really only needed 2 fingers on the wheel the whole time

 

[BlueScapegoat]

AEV HD diesel coils, plus 1.5" coil spacer in the front. In this configuration with the weight of the winch, rack, rtt, etc, it measures a 4" lift. I run the Fox 5110003 (3.5-4.0) shocks and I think they pair quite nicely. Those shocks fully drooped in the front are right at the limit of the factory front driveshaft.

I also run Core4x4 arms with Johnny Joints and a triangulated Rock Krawler rear which requires making certain aspects of the vehicle... lighter.

I drive it across the country, tackle some pretty hardcore trails, and drive it back no problem.

It's not budget overall but it's pieced together and I did it over time, buying a little here and there. The approach itself was surprisingly budget. But it's all relative, it's budget in the context of mods done to a new $60k vehicle.

 

[sparks702]

AEV HD diesel coils, plus 3/4" coil spacer in the front. In this configuration with the weight of the winch, rack, rtt, etc, it measures a 4" lift. I run the Fox 5110003 (3.5-4.0) shocks and I think they pair quite nicely. Those shocks fully drooped in the front are right at the limit of the factory front driveshaft.

I also run Core4x4 arms with Johnny Joints and a triangulated Rock Krawler rear which requires making certain aspects of the vehicle... lighter.

I drive it across the country, tackle some pretty hardcore trails, and drive it back no problem.

40s ? Looks good

Sponsored