Cutting and welding differential for caster

[JT Nate]

Look for a speed shop or custom fabrication shop maybe. It's going to be some set up costs and then some time too. Likely to still be in same ballpark on cost. A hydraulic press to install axle tubes isn't cheap or small. That is a big why the Ford 9 inch axles got popular in the past. You could press the C on the tube weld and position in Ford 9in and weld in. Same with using junkyard D60's and home shop choping. Decades ago I helped my uncle chop a few axles to put in several trucks. For farm and oilfield work and never to be running 70 miles a hour down the highway. That was in S. IL. Look for some local clubs maybe too. The reason why you keep hearing look into company X, Y or Z for built to spec axles. Yes there is several guys on utube who throw axles together and work because they have been doing it for many years. By the way a high pinion front axle is normally stronger in that configuration in some conditions. Why many YJ and TJ owners looked for earlier XJ axles. High pinion 30 vs low pinion 30. Food for thought.

Thanks for your knowledge! I think I’m gonna keep it simple and just add the FAD. Didn’t know it was. Possible when created this thread.

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[JT Nate]

Okay if it does not have the 2 piece axle on thd FAD side ? Buy a us3d 2 piece axle and installed the FAD.

Don’t quote me but from what read it’s the two piece axle. I don’t know exactly how it works. Have to do a little more research. Something about they added a fork that keeps it in the locked position. Not sure if it’s welded in or not. Maybe someone with a little more expertise will chime in.

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

Don’t quote me but from what read it’s the two piece axle. I don’t know exactly how it works. Have to do a little more research. Something about they added a fork that keeps it in the locked position. Not sure if it’s welded in or not. Maybe someone with a little more expertise will chime in.

My understanding is they are all two piece...they just use a different coupler to lock it together vs. a notched one that the FAD fork slides left and right. Part of removing my FAD involved swapping that coupler.

 

[JT Nate]

No you wouldn't the FAD has NOTHING to do with your caster angle. The BALL joints are at 6° which sets the pinion angle at 0° .. This is the Way.

You are the same person that jumped to conclusions on my previous post. You give advice without knowing details and assume people don’t know shit. I thought it was u. You are consistent at least

 

[JTdiRtyD]

Don’t quote me but from what read it’s the two piece axle. I don’t know exactly how it works. Have to do a little more research. Something about they added a fork that keeps it in the locked position. Not sure if it’s welded in or not. Maybe someone with a little more expertise will chime in.

Jump to 2:50 in this video. I think this is what you're talking about.

 

[Stan H]

Jump to 2:50 in this video. I think this is what you're talking about.

Dont bother OP knows everything

 

[Free2roam]

This may be a question for our master of all knowledge. @ShadowsPapa and have you contacted @Clayton Off Road yet?

 

[JT Nate]

My understanding is they are all two piece...they just use a different coupler to lock it together vs. a notched one that the FAD fork slides left and right. Part of removing my FAD involved swapping that coupler.

Dont bother OP knows everything

n

Dont bother OP knows everything

you were rude in the last post and this one was telling me the fad has nothing to do with caster angle… no shit.

 

[JT Nate]

This may be a question for our master of all knowledge. @ShadowsPapa and have you contacted @Clayton Off Road yet?

I haven’t really contacted Clayton. Th

This may be a question for our master of all knowledge. @ShadowsPapa and have you contacted @Clayton Off Road yet?

ShadowsPapa was very helpful before. I did think about reaching out to Clayton but I guess it’s not their problem. People are having the same issue with metal cloaks 3.5. They never had to worry about the pinion/ operating angle before. What is 24 and up guys really need is someone to sell a FAD kit or make a high pinion Rezeppa driveshaft with a slip like Tera flex makes for the JK. I’m determined though. Maybe the FAD install won’t be to hard. Just a dummy with wiring so I’ll have to figure out what I need to do to tie it into AUX one. I know where to connect to. Just have to figure it out when I have pieces in hand.

 

[Blade1668]

Thanks for your knowledge! I think I’m gonna keep it simple and just add the FAD. Didn’t know it was. Possible when created this thread.

If I wasn't on crutches and raining cats & dogs. I'd go snap some pics of FAD axles for you, and one to show the potential failure point too.
Not to dissuade you but to show you more on them. The FAD or older named CAD has been a known failure point in several ways. Breakage and failure to engage 4WD. The CAD version the vacuum lines failed or would get knocked off at times or water intrusion point. The casting can break when wheeled hard too. Just giving some past experiences with it. I've got 4 CAD / FAD axles and 2 non in my driveway. I swapped in a non CAD into my MJ. and deleted my 90XJ CAD.
Oh, it really makes a gear change a bigger PTA too. Been there done that.

 

[Zachanadandy]

If I wasn't on crutches and raining cats & dogs. I'd go snap some pics of FAD axles for you, and one to show the potential failure point too.
Not to dissuade you but to show you more on them. The FAD or older named CAD has been a known failure point in several ways. Breakage and failure to engage 4WD. The CAD version the vacuum lines failed or would get knocked off at times or water intrusion point. The casting can break when wheeled hard too. Just giving some past experiences with it. I've got 4 CAD / FAD axles and 2 non in my driveway. I swapped in a non CAD into my MJ. and deleted my 90XJ CAD.
Oh, it really makes a gear change a bigger PTA too. Been there done that.

The JTs all come with a fad. The only difference is the shift fork is welded to the block off plate effectively locking out the disconnecting means. They literally removed none of the potential failure points aside from the shift motor. Even if you were worried about a shift motor failure you could carry the block off plate with welded shift fork in your tool bag. If the fad motor failed, 4 bolts and about 5 minutes you're back in business.

 

[Gladiatorx2]

I know very little about alignment, but when I had my Rubicon alignment done after both a 3.5 lift and 37's on wheels w/-12 offset mine was lower than even factory caster.

Since I had 37's on previous Rubicon with 2" and the caster was high, I am guessing that the more lift, the more caster you loose?

I am probably going to try either longer control arms or geo correction brackets. I do not have even a hint of the issues the op has, but I feel that either will be an improvement.

 

[JT Nate]

I know very little about alignment, but when I had my Rubicon alignment done after both a 3.5 lift and 37's on wheels w/-12 offset mine was lower than even factory caster.

Since I had 37's on previous Rubicon with 2" and the caster was high, I am guessing that the more lift, the more caster you loose?

I am probably going to try either longer control arms or geo correction brackets. I do not have even a hint of the issues the op has, but I feel that either will be an improvement.

Adjustable control arms would do the trick. Then you can dial it in to the exact caster you want to run. As well as keeping your axle centered.

 

[MPMB]

I know very little about alignment, but when I had my Rubicon alignment done after both a 3.5 lift and 37's on wheels w/-12 offset mine was lower than even factory caster.

Since I had 37's on previous Rubicon with 2" and the caster was high, I am guessing that the more lift, the more caster you lose?

Yes, assuming the lift is without different control arms.

Basics - Looking at the side view of the front wheel assembly, caster is the angle if you were draw an imaginary line between the center of the lower and upper ball joints, compared to vertical (90*). The top ball joint will always be behind the lower ball joint, as that helps the wheels turn back to center.

When you lift a truck, the chassis mount of the control arms goes up, and since it's a fixed distance between mounting points, that will pull the bottom of the axle rearward, reducing the distance (angle) between the upper and lower ball joints.

Vibrations occur when the caster gets too low, the tires have less force telling them which direction they should point.

And of course, vibrations can come from multiple issues, not just caster. It's a test-result process to find out what's what.

 

[JT Nate]

Jump to 2:50 in this video. I think this is what you're talking about.

I love watching his videos. He’s the reason I went with method 703 8.5 with a 38x 13.5 tire. Good video. Now I understand the block off plate with the fork

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