Cutting and welding differential for caster

[JTdiRtyD]

So the wiring is gone also ?
I still dont understand the OP's problem.
So if it was eliminated from the wiring harness then it really was stupid
What if someone wanted a FAD again?

My guess is Jeep isn't concerned with or really even considering if someone wants to add a FAD.

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[Zachanadandy]

So the wiring is gone also ?
I still dont understand the OP's problem.
So if it was eliminated from the wiring harness then it really was stupid /00550
What if someone wanted a FAD again?

I don't think any OEM has ever cared about future mods? I don't have a '24-'25 so I'm only assuming they didn't include the wiring and then just tape up the connector for a motor they eliminated? The problem with no FAD is the front driveshaft will always be spinning even in 2wd. Not an issue with the stock rzeppa style joint at the tcase as they are very forgiving of angles not being great. When you run enough lift, or more specifically long enough front shocks, the rzeppa joint doesn't have enough droop and will end up tearing the boot when wheeling. This quickly kills the joint altogether. An aftermarket ujoint/double cardan shaft needs the pinion pointed at the tcase to be happy. The problem is the separation angle between the caster and the pinion isn't great enough to roll the pinion up without having little to no caster at all. Thus the OPs original idea of a cut and turn, rotating the Cs so the pinion can be angled up while still running 6⁰+ of caster. Making the FAD functional is a lot more cost effective than a cut and turn and then you don't have the front shaft spinning and you can run optimal caster with less than optimal pinion angle. You would still get driveline vibes at speed in 4wd, but most people aren't running 60mph+ in 4wd. The easy solution to no FAD wiring is running it to a 12v switch, which also allows you to turn the FAD of in 4LO effectively allowing 2LO.

 

[OldButStillJeeping]

There are tens of thousands of lifted JLs/JTs on the road and trails and 95% of those still have the FAD. The 2024 and up models still have the FAD it is just locked into position. The only fail point I've seen is the cast FAD housing which they all still have and even that is a very rare occurrence. The 2 piece shaft is probably weaker than a single piece, but again they all still have it and I haven't seen a single failure. Now we all need 60s with hubs just to wheel? Remove the lift and run stock tires? Or just make the FAD you already have functional for a couple hundred dollars and go wheeling? When you say drop the FAD and solidify it are you just talking the axle shaft? The failures seem to be the housing so unless you are swapping the front axle for an aftermarket you aren't gaining much.

I plan to install RCV axle shafts. I haven't looked to see if they are avaliable yet, but it's a year away. Anyway, plan to install a solid right shaft right thru the FAD. CV joints at the knuckle end like I have now.

I suppose I will need a tazer to adjust / program the computer. IDK.

I will cross that bridge then.

Thank you

 

[Jteakus]

I miss lock out hubs and real wheel bearings.

 

[Jteakus]

Back to the OP's original question. any good welding shop worth its salt should be able to grind the weld at the C"s, set pinion angle and caster, then burn them back in.

 

[JTdiRtyD]

I would assume any custom fab shop would be able to tackle it. There has to be someone around there.

Otherwise if willing to drive a little bit, Zues Offroad in MN has a stellar team and does axle fab work. 6ish hour drive each way from Chicago.

 

[Zachanadandy]

I would assume any custom fab shop would be able to tackle it. There has to be someone around there.

Otherwise if willing to drive a little bit, Zues Offroad in MN has a stellar team and does axle fab work. 6ish hour drive each way from Chicago.

Or just make the FAD functional for what the fuel alone would cost? The FAD housing is still the weak point of our front axles. Aside from maintenance like brakes and ball joints I wouldn't put a dime into the thing. Some people have Dana 60 money into their front 44s which is wild to me. You can get a Fusion 4x4 front hd60 for $7,500 with HD ball joints, chromoly shafts, elocker, and gears of your choice. Sell the stock axle for $1,000. Save $1,000 not regearing your 44, save $1,000 on aftermarket axle shafts, save $1,000 on the locker if you have a non-rubicon model. Save $1,000 on having hd ball joints installed. And now you've got a Dana 60 for $2,500...delivered to the house. Figure that 12hr drive plus the fab work would mean at least 1 night in a hotel. That's another $1,000 savings on the trip and probably $1,000 on the fab work. Built 44 or built 60 with a $500 difference?

 

[JTdiRtyD]

Or just make the FAD functional for what the fuel alone would cost? The FAD housing is still the weak point of our front axles. Aside from maintenance like brakes and ball joints I wouldn't put a dime into the thing. Some people have Dana 60 money into their front 44s which is wild to me. You can get a Fusion 4x4 front hd60 for $7,500 with HD ball joints, chromoly shafts, elocker, and gears of your choice. Sell the stock axle for $1,000. Save $1,000 not regearing your 44, save $1,000 on aftermarket axle shafts, save $1,000 on the locker if you have a non-rubicon model. Save $1,000 on having hd ball joints installed. And now you've got a Dana 60 for $2,500...delivered to the house. Figure that 12hr drive plus the fab work would mean at least 1 night in a hotel. That's another $1,000 savings on the trip and probably $1,000 on the fab work. Built 44 or built 60 with a $500 difference?

I was simply getting back to the original question along with @Jteakus in the case the OP decided to continue down the axle cut route.

 

[Zachanadandy]

I was simply getting back to the original question along with @Jteakus in the case the OP decided to continue down the axle cut route.

I get that, but I think there's a lot of reasons we don't see many cut and turns on these axles. The juice just isn't worth the squeeze for the most part.

 

[Jteakus]

We did a lot of them back in the 80’s when 12” lifts and 44’s were common on solid axle trucks around here. Also when shortening D44’s for the front of CJ’s

 

[Stan H]

I miss lock out hubs and real wheel bearings.

Honestly I do too what would make me slightly happier is if someone would come out with a rebuildable hub assembly bearing kit. I would buy a set in a heart beat

 

[JT Nate]

Wouldn't it be worth losing a tiny bit of droop travel to make this issue go away? What length front shocks are you running?

3.5 falcons. Not a bad thought though. The FAD isn’t that expensive and I might have secured a used one. Then I can move my caster back up to 6. It really doesn’t bother me running the lower caster but the fact I still have a vibration at an operating angle of 7 is kinda a mystery.

 

[JT Nate]

I'm reading lots of bad info here and on the other thread
I have build many rigs from ground up and did alignment in an off road shop
I have 3" of lift on my gladiator caster at 6* and a lunch box locker (driveshaft spins) Zero vibrations


A. Optimum caster is 6* (weight bias and level of vehicle can change this)

B. Drive shaft angle (Front or rear) at T-case and pinion should be the same angle Unless you have a Dual Cardan shaft then the pinion should be 0*

C. A vibration from the driveshaft spinning is a result of being out of phase or poorly balanced


tom woods info (one of the best)
angles
https://4xshaft.com/blogs/general-t...le-cardan-drive-shafts-for-your-jeep-or-truck
vibrations
https://4xshaft.com/blogs/general-tech-info-articles/diagnosing-drive-shaft-vibrations
in phase
https://4xshaft.com/blogs/faq/driveshaft-in-phase

I had the driveshaft (2k miles on a new adams driveshaft) rebalanced and they did add weight. So it’s not out of balance. Does your gladiator have a FAD? Are u running 5.13 gears? Can you elaborate on the bad info? I’m new to this all and trying to figure it out. From everything I’ve read it’s a problem that most haven’t encountered since they only removed the FAD on 392’s and 2024-25’s.

 

[JT Nate]

I don't think any OEM has ever cared about future mods? I don't have a '24-'25 so I'm only assuming they didn't include the wiring and then just tape up the connector for a motor they eliminated? The problem with no FAD is the front driveshaft will always be spinning even in 2wd. Not an issue with the stock rzeppa style joint at the tcase as they are very forgiving of angles not being great. When you run enough lift, or more specifically long enough front shocks, the rzeppa joint doesn't have enough droop and will end up tearing the boot when wheeling. This quickly kills the joint altogether. An aftermarket ujoint/double cardan shaft needs the pinion pointed at the tcase to be happy. The problem is the separation angle between the caster and the pinion isn't great enough to roll the pinion up without having little to no caster at all. Thus the OPs original idea of a cut and turn, rotating the Cs so the pinion can be angled up while still running 6⁰+ of caster. Making the FAD functional is a lot more cost effective than a cut and turn and then you don't have the front shaft spinning and you can run optimal caster with less than optimal pinion angle. You would still get driveline vibes at speed in 4wd, but most people aren't running 60mph+ in 4wd. The easy solution to no FAD wiring is running it to a 12v switch, which also allows you to turn the FAD of in 4LO effectively allowing 2LO.

You are spot on. Do you think I would be able to wire it to an AUX? I’m a real idiot when it comes to understanding wiring.

 

[JT Nate]

Back to the OP's original question. any good welding shop worth its salt should be able to grind the weld at the C"s, set pinion angle and caster, then burn them back in.

Ballpark what should I expect? Cause the FAD actuator should cost 350-450. No downtime either. But cut job is a better fix… decisions.

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