Can I improve the steering/driving experience any more?

[gearhead22]

Everything I’ve read and heard about high steer is it’s unnecessary until 4.5”+ lift. The bilsteins I have are known to be stiffer than eibach.

Thats why I don't always go by what others may say . I may just be a little more fussy about things than others plus personal experience is not misinterpreted . I can only tell you what made a difference to me . Sure you can get caster correct as I did with just MC control arms but that does nothing for geometry . It did make a difference on mine with only 3" of lift . I usually try things on my own because to many things are subjective and I want my own experience . They may not be required but they do help as does high steer . Mine was designed to work with 2.5" of lift . Most other brand high steer may not " recommend" for that small of a lift even though some do it anyway. Once again It made a difference. Rock jock is a different design than others and it did make a difference in mine . The Eibach shocks were said to be softer on road than the 5100 which is why I initially bought them . I then tried the Fox/JKS 2.5 IFP's which were too soft and then I noticed bump steer so I went back to the Eibach. I enjoy experimenting, sometimes it works ,some time it dont but the fact remains I know from personal experience .
[/QUOTE]
The eyes definitely a chance that it could help me. I was just going off what a lot of the manufacturers state which is 4.5 or more. But it may work for me and be just what I need.

Sponsored

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

I thought it was snake oil until I installed it: the SteerSmarts YETI XD Drag Link with Griffin XD Attenuator made the single-most noticeable improvement in my ride/steering quality.

I have 37" tires, and prior to installing there was a bump on curved section of a freeway that would always give me a jarring experience...as if it was going to throw me off the road. After installing it...the drag link just sucks it up. I can feel the bump, but the steering wheel makes almost no movement.

FWIW, I had already installed the Fox ATS stabilizer and had it 3 ticks off max. Paired with the Griffin, I dropped it to the lightest setting to let the attenuator take it.

 

[Mad Mac]

...there’s still 1-2” of play in the steering wheel when moving side to side where nothing really happens.

Tighten the steering gear.
Doesn't cost a dime.
I reduced the slop in my steering wheel
from 3 inches to 1 inch.
A world of difference.

This fellow had the aluminum pre '21 box,
but the adjustment method is the same.

 

[gearhead22]

Tighten the steering gear.
Doesn't cost a dime.
I reduced mine from 3 inches to 1 inch.
A world of difference.

This fellow had the aluminum pre '21 box,
but the adjustment method is the same.

I only have 1-2 inches now

 

[Mad Mac]

One of the people in my Jeep club
adjusted all of the slack
out of his steering gear in his JK.
None. No slop.
The only reason that I have not
is perhaps an unreasonable fear
of blowing up the gearbox.
I could be wrong. I often am.

 

[vicsvx]

I only have 1-2 inches now

Between the gearbox adjustment and using this... Maybe fix your issue...I have similar slop and been planning to adjust gearbox and buying the brace
https://www.synergymfg.com/jeep/jee...jlu-jt-front-track-bar-and-sector-shaft-brace

 

[gearhead22]

Just for reference, not sure if there’s a standard recommended degree measurement or not, but I measured the degrees of my drag link and track bar. I get about 9-10 degrees on each, they are even between the 2 so that’s a plus. Not sure if zero (perfectly parallel) is ideal in a perfect world or if you want some degree on there. I’m sure there’s more jeeps out there with an angle than there are not. But just wanted to share that measurement.

 

[Zachanadandy]

Just for reference, not sure if there’s a standard recommended degree measurement or not, but I measured the degrees of my drag link and track bar. I get about 9-10 degrees on each, they are even between the 2 so that’s a plus. Not sure if zero (perfectly parallel) is ideal in a perfect world or if you want some degree on there. I’m sure there’s more jeeps out there with an angle than there are not. But just wanted to share that measurement.

I'll try to get angle measurements but I'd say as close to 0 at ride height as you could reasonably get would be best. I don't think 0⁰ is possible as that would mean the track bar mount was pretty well touching the frame on the passengers side.

 

[Zachanadandy]

I get between 2.6⁰ and 3.7⁰ depending upon how and where I measure.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

One of the people in my Jeep club
adjusted all of the slack
out of his steering gear in his JK.
None. No slop.
The only reason that I have not
is perhaps an unreasonable fear
of blowing up the gearbox.
I could be wrong. I often am.

yeah, the old "this fixes everything with Jeep steering" thing.
Odd, never had a Jeep steering gear that needed any help other than the 2020 version.
Going in and taking out play and not understanding what's inside that box and why that screw even exists does risk some issues down the road, especially when it gets hot.
It's not for "play", it's for preload and, well, it's just one of those youtube things that's taken at face value with no thought or reasoning put into it.
If hitting a bump tosses the vehicle to the side or grabs the wheel from you - play isn't the problem.

When you lift and modify other parts - you throw geometry out the window.
I had to "smile" when i saw "don't recommend drop brackets with........" uh, the brackets are not to change length but to get the arms level with the ground again.

Get those control arms down in the rear to make them level. You don't have to lengthen them. I think sometimes the "customer support" people don't think it through - in the case of a lift 3" or so, you are shoving those arms in different ways, other than them just moving up and down at the front when level.

First thing I'd do - geometry correcting brackets. But that's just me, I guess.

 

[gearhead22]

yeah, the old "this fixes everything with Jeep steering" thing.
Odd, never had a Jeep steering gear that needed any help other than the 2020 version.
Going in and taking out play and not understanding what's inside that box and why that screw even exists does risk some issues down the road, especially when it gets hot.
It's not for "play", it's for preload and, well, it's just one of those youtube things that's taken at face value with no thought or reasoning put into it.
If hitting a bump tosses the vehicle to the side or grabs the wheel from you - play isn't the problem.

When you lift and modify other parts - you throw geometry out the window.
I had to "smile" when i saw "don't recommend drop brackets with........" uh, the brackets are not to change length but to get the arms level with the ground again.

Get those control arms down in the rear to make them level. You don't have to lengthen them. I think sometimes the "customer support" people don't think it through - in the case of a lift 3" or so, you are shoving those arms in different ways, other than them just moving up and down at the front when level.

First thing I'd do - geometry correcting brackets. But that's just me, I guess.

I don’t doubt that they would help. I can’t think of a single arm that wouldn’t benefit from being level or at least close to. I’m thinking no matter what I’ll end up with the drag link flip and drop brackets.

 

[Gizmo]

Just make sure the axle end of the track bar is raised when you DL flip

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Just make sure the axle end of the track bar is raised when you DL flip

Would this work?

 

[VA6489]

I have a 2021 JTR. It has a Metalcloak 3.5” GC lift, 37” c rated bfg ko2’s, bilstein 5100 shocks, MC rear track bar relocation, MC tie rod and drag link with steering stabilizer relocation kit, dynatrac ball joints. I’m running 6 degrees of caster. Originally had MC Rocksport red shocks and swapped to the 5100’s as I felt the rocksports were a bit too soft and only added to the issues.

My complaint is that even with all this the jeep still doesn’t drive the way I wish it would. Maybe I’m expecting too much and maybe it’s “just a jeep”. It doesn’t drive terrible but when hitting bumps I get a pretty good amount of bump steer and there’s still 1-2” of play in the steering wheel when moving side to side where nothing really happens.

I know it’s a jeep but I have to imagine it could drive better than this. I let my wife drive it for the first time this evening on a decently long trip. Overall she didn’t have much to complain about but when she’d see a bump coming she’d put 2 hands on the wheel to hold on and in her words she felt “when we hit a bump she was afraid of it throwing the jeep to the side of the road”. To be clear, it doesn’t throw the jeep, but it does throw the steering wheel (bump steer) a good bit.

Any ideas or recommendations?
[/QUOT

Had the same issues with my JKUR and now my JT. Some recommendations

1) Choose quality components. This means spend some money. On the JKUR started with Metal Cloak after 6 mounts ditched it for a long arm system. Find one with Johnny type joints, 120 wall tube or 7071 aluminum links. Gladiator is getting an Artec Long arm suspension with a triangulated long arm rear.
2) Steering lots of companies use tubing in their steering systems to include track bars. These flex. Flex give you that lazy wandering feeling behind the wheel. Look at
a) forged Track bars front and rear.
b) Solid tie rod and drag link. I have found the Aluminum components improve the driving experience dramatically.
3) steering box. Upgrade the OEM to PSC to include the pump. Run either a quality stabilizer or a Hydro assist.
4) Dial in 6 to 7 degrees of caster and 1/8 toe in
5) Shocks, this will make a huge difference in ride. Go with a shock you can have valved to you spec. yes you can get shock valved different for different driving conditions. King, Fox and higher end Bilstein's all do this. Stay away from the one size fits all shock offered by just about everyone. They are a lousy compromise in performance at best and most all are built eth same way with a small 1 to 1.625 piston. Running a smoothie 2.5 King or Fox valved correctly will make make a quantum leap in driving experience.
6) if you are an aggressive driver invest in a quality sway bar. Sway Loc is fantastic for both on and off road.

This is the third performance oriented Jeep I have built, PM me for more details. My JKUR runs 100mph all day long with just two fingers on the wheel. She had 9 degrees of caster on Long arms and King 2.5 coil overs. ( Oh yeah 500hp LT 6.2 motor under the hood too)

 

[VA6489]

PS raise the track bar axle mounts too. Rear wants to be close to parallel to the ground, Front align with Drag link and if possible make same length or within 2 inches.

Sponsored