Can I improve the steering/driving experience any more?

[gearhead22]

I have a 2021 JTR. It has a Metalcloak 3.5” GC lift, 37” c rated bfg ko2’s, bilstein 5100 shocks, MC rear track bar relocation, MC tie rod and drag link with steering stabilizer relocation kit, dynatrac ball joints. I’m running 6 degrees of caster. Originally had MC Rocksport red shocks and swapped to the 5100’s as I felt the rocksports were a bit too soft and only added to the issues.

My complaint is that even with all this the jeep still doesn’t drive the way I wish it would. Maybe I’m expecting too much and maybe it’s “just a jeep”. It doesn’t drive terrible but when hitting bumps I get a pretty good amount of bump steer and there’s still 1-2” of play in the steering wheel when moving side to side where nothing really happens.

I know it’s a jeep but I have to imagine it could drive better than this. I let my wife drive it for the first time this evening on a decently long trip. Overall she didn’t have much to complain about but when she’d see a bump coming she’d put 2 hands on the wheel to hold on and in her words she felt “when we hit a bump she was afraid of it throwing the jeep to the side of the road”. To be clear, it doesn’t throw the jeep, but it does throw the steering wheel (bump steer) a good bit.

Any ideas or recommendations?

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[XraytecH]

You got everything outside of long arms but two glaring things missing are High Steer and Control Arm Drop Brackets.

https://metalcloak.com/jl-wrangler-jt-gladiator-hi-steer-kit.html

https://metalcloak.com/jl-wrangler-hd-control-arm-pro-lignment-kit.html

 

[Gizmo]

What did it for me with only 3” of lift was Currie’s Rockjock high steer set up and rancho’s geometry brackets. Replacing the soft fox shocks i had with stiffer Eibach fronts took care of my bumpsteer on the highway

 

[Stan H]

I have a 2021 JTR. It has a Metalcloak 3.5” GC lift, 37” c rated bfg ko2’s, bilstein 5100 shocks, MC rear track bar relocation, MC tie rod and drag link with steering stabilizer relocation kit, dynatrac ball joints. I’m running 6 degrees of caster. Originally had MC Rocksport red shocks and swapped to the 5100’s as I felt the rocksports were a bit too soft and only added to the issues.

My complaint is that even with all this the jeep still doesn’t drive the way I wish it would. Maybe I’m expecting too much and maybe it’s “just a jeep”. It doesn’t drive terrible but when hitting bumps I get a pretty good amount of bump steer and there’s still 1-2” of play in the steering wheel when moving side to side where nothing really happens.

I know it’s a jeep but I have to imagine it could drive better than this. I let my wife drive it for the first time this evening on a decently long trip. Overall she didn’t have much to complain about but when she’d see a bump coming she’d put 2 hands on the wheel to hold on and in her words she felt “when we hit a bump she was afraid of it throwing the jeep to the side of the road”. To be clear, it doesn’t throw the jeep, but it does throw the steering wheel (bump steer) a good bit.

Any ideas or recommendations?

Tera Flex or Fox Adjustable steering shock

 

[gearhead22]

You got everything outside of long arms but two glaring things missing are High Steer and Control Arm Drop Brackets.

https://metalcloak.com/jl-wrangler-jt-gladiator-hi-steer-kit.html

https://metalcloak.com/jl-wrangler-hd-control-arm-pro-lignment-kit.html

I spoke with metacloak directly and they don’t recommend pairing the control arm drop brackets with their adjustable control arms and high steer has always been recommended at 4.5” of lift or higher, I’m at 3.5”.

What did it for me with only 3” of lift was Currie’s Rockjock high steer set up and rancho’s geometry brackets. Replacing the soft fox shocks i had with stiffer Eibach fronts took care of my bumpsteer on the highway

Everything I’ve read and heard about high steer is it’s unnecessary until 4.5”+ lift. The bilsteins I have are known to be stiffer than eibach.

 

[PlayfulBird]

Look at the bawarrion georise 45... I think that may handle more to how you would like
And you may have to also start upgrading your steering components... reinforced box etc.

 

[Zachanadandy]

I spoke with metacloak directly and they don’t recommend pairing the control arm drop brackets with their adjustable control arms and high steer has always been recommended at 4.5” of lift or higher, I’m at 3.5”.


Everything I’ve read and heard about high steer is it’s unnecessary until 4.5”+ lift. The bilsteins I have are known to be stiffer than eibach.

Not Necessary doesn't mean it won't drive better. Mine has 3.5" metalcloak springs, their high steer (which also raises the front track bar making for better geometry and less side to side movements hitting bumps), drop brackets, and the rock krawler triangulated 4 link in the rear. All together they've made this the best riding Jeep we've ever owned and there's been more than a dozen over the years. Control arms allow you to center the axles and add caster, but do nothing for the geometry. Flatter arms will always ride better. If you weren't clear across the country I'd offer to let you drive it to see how much better it is. Mine sees hundreds of miles of washboard dirt roads every year so bump handling at speed was my main focus of the build and it's great now.

 

[gearhead22]

Not Necessary doesn't mean it won't drive better. Mine has 3.5" metalcloak springs, their high steer (which also raises the front track bar making for better geometry and less side to side movements hitting bumps), drop brackets, and the rock krawler triangulated 4 link in the rear. All together they've made this the best riding Jeep we've ever owned and there's been more than a dozen over the years. Control arms allow you to center the axles and add caster, but do nothing for the geometry. Flatter arms will always ride better. If you weren't clear across the country I'd offer to let you drive it to see how much better it is. Mine sees hundreds of miles of washboard dirt roads every year so bump handling at speed was my main focus of the build and it's great now.

Alright you might have sold me does Metalcloak use the same drag link whether it’s flipped or not? I just purchased their drag link so I’d hate to have to get rid of it. Then I need to figure out which drop brackets to go with.

 

[Zachanadandy]

Alright you might have sold me does Metalcloak use the same drag link whether it’s flipped or not? I just purchased their drag link so I’d hate to have to get rid of it. Then I need to figure out which drop brackets to go with.

I'm not 100% sure but I think it's the same drag link for either orientation.

 

[gearhead22]

I'm not 100% sure but I think it's the same drag link for either orientation.

I’m going to call them tomorrow when they’re open. The tie rod and drag link nuts aren’t supposed to be reused either so I’m going to see if they’ll send new ones along with the flip kit. I think I’ll try the flip first since that specifically is for bump steer which is what I feel I experience the most of. If that doesn’t suffice then I’ll probably install control arm drop brackets.

 

[Zachanadandy]

I’m going to call them tomorrow when they’re open. The tie rod and drag link nuts aren’t supposed to be reused either so I’m going to see if they’ll send new ones along with the flip kit. I think I’ll try the flip first since that specifically is for bump steer which is what I feel I experience the most of. If that doesn’t suffice then I’ll probably install control arm drop brackets.

You only flip the drag link so the tie rod won't need removed. I'm sure they can send the nuts for the drag link.

 

[gearhead22]

You only flip the drag link so the tie rod won't need removed. I'm sure they can send the nuts for the drag link.

I can’t get the drag link off without removing the passenger side of the tie rod. I don’t have space to get the drag link out. I ran into this issue when installing. I put the tie rod on first, and couldn’t get the drag link installed because the tie rod is in the way. So I had to install the drag link first then the tie rod last. Won’t be the case after it’s flipped but with it mounted underneath the tie rod has to come off.

 

[jjdustr340]

Since it’s a 21 model, did you happen to check if you have the aluminum or the steel steering gearbox?
There was a TSB for the 20s for sure, and IIRC, some 21s were included in that.
It was your mention of play in the steering wheel that brought that to my mind. Easiest way to check is the that the steel one is all black.

 

[gearhead22]

Since it’s a 21 model, did you happen to check if you have the aluminum or the steel steering gearbox?
There was a TSB for the 20s for sure, and IIRC, some 21s were included in that.
It was your mention of play in the steering wheel that brought that to my mind. Easiest way to check is the that the steel one is all black.

I have the black painted Steel steering box. It’s my understanding that all 21’s have the steel box. Maybe not but I have looked and it’s the black steel box. Not the raw aluminum gray one.

 

[Gizmo]

Everything I’ve read and heard about high steer is it’s unnecessary until 4.5”+ lift. The bilsteins I have are known to be stiffer than eibach.
[/QUOTE]
Thats why I don't always go by what others may say . I may just be a little more fussy about things than others plus personal experience is not misinterpreted . I can only tell you what made a difference to me . Sure you can get caster correct as I did with just MC control arms but that does nothing for geometry . It did make a difference on mine with only 3" of lift . I usually try things on my own because to many things are subjective and I want my own experience . They may not be required but they do help as does high steer . Mine was designed to work with 2.5" of lift . Most other brand high steer may not " recommend" for that small of a lift even though some do it anyway. Once again It made a difference. Rock jock is a different design than others and it did make a difference in mine . The Eibach shocks were said to be softer on road than the 5100 which is why I initially bought them . I then tried the Fox/JKS 2.5 IFP's which were too soft and then I noticed bump steer so I went back to the Eibach. I enjoy experimenting, sometimes it works ,some time it dont but the fact remains I know from personal experience .

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