Stellantis sells VM Motori...

[Vtur]

Before we get into expensive oils, we first need to talk about the correct oil. The oil that you're using isn't designed for a long lasting DPF. Based on SAE studies, the difference between 0.6% and 1.0% SAPS can increase DPF life as much as 270%. What does that mean in the real-world? Well, we've seen several 3rd Gen EcoDiesel owners having to replace their DPFs by 120,000 miles because they were full of ash. The folks running a low ash oil can log 300,000 miles on the factory DPF. When the DPF begins to fill with ash, you'll experience more frequent regens and robbed power (backpressure from restricted DPF). More frequent regens means increased fuel consumption and lower efficiency.

There are many 3rd gen EcoDiesel owners who get caught in the trap of believing that finding a cheaper off-the-shelf oil (e.g., Castrol Euro, Quaker State, etc.) is a great solution. A full SAPS oil is only going to cause more problems in the long run. Will a full SAPS oil get you past the 5 years/100,000-mile warranty period? Yes.

I don't mind replacing the DPF or any after treatment component as that's something i can replaces in my small garage. I do my own wrenching, as long I'm not dealing with body off or engine out than I'm good. Preserving internal components like thrust bearings, rings and valve train is more important to me. Rest are replaces as it breaks i guess.

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[Vtur]

Expensive, no. Quality, yes.
Love the video Lake did comparing expensive "boutique" or big fancy named oil to off the shelf oil from NAPA and Walmart.

The executive summary - the $10 oils didn't do any better than the $5 oils. In fact, the NAPA oil did amazingly well in wear and other areas.

QS oil meet specs for gen3 ecodiesel.

 

[biodiesel]

I don't mind replacing the DPF or any after treatment component as that's something i can replaces in my small garage.

That's a good attitude to have. My only suggestion is to switch to a lower SAPs oil to extend DPF service life. A replacement DPF is $1,500 dollars.

 

[PlayfulBird]

I don't mind replacing the DPF or any after treatment component as that's something i can replaces in my small garage. I do my own wrenching, as long I'm not dealing with body off or engine out than I'm good. Preserving internal components like thrust bearings, rings and valve train is more important to me. Rest are replaces as it breaks i guess.

Considering the cost of euro6 dpfs here in Eu and more than a few Gladis having trouble with clogging them, that can still be expensive... interesting enough you can get lifts fairly cheap and I just got a decent engine crane and stand for 300 bucks... I thought that would cost more... considering the cost of components... that was very cheap...
But yeah, I dont know. I love Diesel and I love the Torque, but there is sooo much and the cost adds up quickly

 

[Vtur]

I did the same, 10-11,000 mile change intervals, no fuel additives, no trans fluid or filter ever.

Truck went 445,000 miles lol.

6-8k interval depending on

Considering the cost of euro6 dpfs here in Eu and more than a few Gladis having trouble with clogging them, that can still be expensive... interesting enough you can get lifts fairly cheap and I just got a decent engine crane and stand for 300 bucks... I thought that would cost more... considering the cost of components... that was very cheap...
But yeah, I dont know. I love Diesel and I love the Torque, but there is sooo much and the cost adds up quickly

Higher maintenance and repair cost is expected with the diesel. Higher torque sure ain't free lol. I don't have front or side yard to work on. My garage barely fit the Gladi with just 6 inches to spare. When i regeared my truck, i was sliding on my creeper to gets from side to side from underneath lol

 

[PlayfulBird]

6-8k interval depending on

Higher maintenance and repair cost is expected with the diesel. Higher torque sure ain't free lol. I don't have front or side yard to work on. My garage barely fit the Gladi with just 6 inches to spare. When i regeared my truck, i was sliding on my creeper to gets from side to side from underneath lol

Totally get it
worth it though, being said, doing it the hard way def is worth it, and makes it yours

 

[Stuntman Mike]

6-8k interval depending on

Higher maintenance and repair cost is expected with the diesel. Higher torque sure ain't free lol. I don't have front or side yard to work on. My garage barely fit the Gladi with just 6 inches to spare. When i regeared my truck, i was sliding on my creeper to gets from side to side from underneath lol

Seems that you have plenty of space, I have not even 1 inch spare.

 

[Vtur]

Seems that you have plenty of space, I have not even 1 inch spare.

Holy cow

 

[Stuntman Mike]

Holy cow

In deed.

When I (regretfully) sold her

I thought, give it a try, the Gladiator is not as wide as the Corvette and just a little bit longer.

And it figures out that it fits ...

 

[PackMule]

..... Will a full SAPS oil get you past the 5 years/100,000-mile warranty period? Yes.

.... or maybe not. My DPF died at 85k, on almost exclusively (expensive) dealer oil changes... and ... none of the 3 costly emissions failures I'm replacing at 85-92k miles is covered on the Mopar 100k powertrain warrantee. Even the fuel sensor on the fuel return line.

 

[biodiesel]

.... or maybe not. My DPF died at 85k

Did the dealer say why it failed at 85,000 miles? Were you experiencing frequent regens before it failed?

It does seem that Ram/Jeep programmed the DPF to throw a check engine light before the DPF reaches critical conditions, which is a good thing. Those who monitored regens reported seeing a steady increase in frequent regens up until the check engine light came on. In those cases, we know the DPF failed due to ash loading. A new DPF restored their normal driving range in-between regens.

Most failures reported have been around the 120,000 - 150,000 mile mark. There's been a few others who reported failures in that 90,000 - 105,000 mile range.

 

[Hootbro]

.... or maybe not. My DPF died at 85k, on almost exclusively (expensive) dealer oil changes... and ... none of the 3 costly emissions failures I'm replacing at 85-92k miles is covered on the Mopar 100k powertrain warrantee. Even the fuel sensor on the fuel return line.

You sure the dealer used the correct oil? I have heard of dealers using bulk whatever that may be incorrect for the EcoDiesel's even though they will invoice the correct MOPAR part numbers on the service ticket.

 

[PackMule]

Did the dealer say why it failed at 85,000 miles? Were you experiencing frequent regens before it failed?

It does seem that Ram/Jeep programmed the DPF to throw a check engine light before the DPF reaches critical conditions, which is a good thing. Those who monitored regens reported seeing a steady increase in frequent regens up until the check engine light came on. In those cases, we know the DPF failed due to ash loading. A new DPF restored their normal driving range in-between regens.

Most failures reported have been around the 120,000 - 150,000 mile mark. There's been a few others who reported failures in that 90,000 - 105,000 mile range.

I had a oil service done at a remote dealer while snowbirding south about 80k mi, and they said at that time that it was throwing some DPF errors, ... and they diagnosed it as a DPF sensor failure, but the sensor was on a couple month back order. By the time they got the sensor, I had already towed the Gladiator back to Montana behind my RV. No check engine lights, no dashboard error messages. I was surprised the dealer had said there were error codes, because there was no indications on the console.

Back in Montana at 85k mi I took it to my local dealer to do another oil change, in only 5k mi, told them what the other dealer had encountered, asked them check on the DPF, .... they said that they would check for codes, but if there were no active codes, i would have to pay for any further diagnosis as they would be just fishing. They didn't see any active codes.

The DPF failed 2k mi later while towing my trailer to camp... with an error message of an "Emissions System Failure, take to Dealer", and went into derate mode. Fortunately it was downhill all the way to the dealer! I made a u-turn and coasted the trailer to the dealer.

Dealer said the DPF was cracked internally, but I have no idea how they determined that.

So, in my case there might have been some error codes being thrown "behind the scenes", but nothing that showed up on the console, or caused a CEL, until it full-out failed. I think I might have even checked on my TAZER between the oil changes, and the TAZER showed no DTCs.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I had a oil service done at a remote dealer while snowbirding south about 80k mi, and they said at that time that it was throwing some DPF errors, ... and they diagnosed it as a DPF sensor failure, but the sensor was on a couple month back order. By the time they got the sensor, I had already towed the Gladiator back to Montana behind my RV. No check engine lights, no dashboard error messages. I was surprised the dealer had said there were error codes, because there was no indications on the console.

Back in Montana at 85k mi I took it to my local dealer to do another oil change, in only 5k mi, told them what the other dealer had encountered, asked them check on the DPF, .... they said that they would check for codes, but if there were no active codes, i would have to pay for any further diagnosis as they would be just fishing. They didn't see any active codes.

The DPF failed 2k mi later while towing my trailer to camp... with an error message of an "Emissions System Failure, take to Dealer", and went into derate mode. Fortunately it was downhill all the way to the dealer! I made a u-turn and coasted the trailer to the dealer.

Dealer said the DPF was cracked internally, but I have no idea how they determined that.

So, in my case there might have been some error codes being thrown "behind the scenes", but nothing that showed up on the console, or caused a CEL, until it full-out failed. I think I might have even checked on my TAZER between the oil changes, and the TAZER showed no DTCs.

Unless tazer does a deep dive, there can be pending codes and so on. I've seen misfires not trigger a light yet the vehicle bucked like a horse.

 

[brsnow2585]

Factory, over the years, has used under-sized bearings where needed. Usually the block and cap are marked. One example is the marking of A, B or C. If it's A it gets a .001 undersize, B gets .0015 or 2 and so on.
That way blocks can be used that would otherwise be trashes.
Someone documented these things on various engines over the years and figured the pattern so that people like me doing a rebuild knew exactly what to expect.
You'll often find factory markings like that on the bottom end, even the top end for pistons.
I bought a set of factory undersized bearings for my 4.0 - not because it was worn out, but because it came that way. A friend had a set of NOS bearings still in the box, marked undersized..

That's the same method that spawned all the Honda small engine clones. The blocks get a grade before they get assembled, if one doesn't get a passing grade it gets sold off to any number of clone brands. I've had plenty of the clones never had problems with them, the difference I noticed was cosmetic, rough casting or tooling marks mostly.

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