Oil Pan Gasket?

[DylanM]

@Maximus Gladius
Straight from the service manual:

Clean off all the old sealant and wipe down the areas with isopropyl alcohol prior to applying the sealant. The manual calls for a 3 to 4mm wide strip of sealant applied to one surface only for the oil pan (don't put the sealant on both the part and the part it attaches to).

Sponsored

 

[ShadowsPapa]

So, reviving this thread to ask the application process for Mopar Threebond engine RTV 68082860AB.
I picked this stuff up to day to pull my engine oil pan and of course theres no instructions on the process and timing of pan install, finger tighten bolts, wait 15 min, wait an hour, two or three, before torquing or dont wait at all, just slap on and torque down.

I asked my service advisor to ask and she asked two techs that said it's quick dry so slap on and torque down right away. Can fill oil right away too.

I asked my parts counter guy and he went back and only came back to say, wait an hour before filling with oil. Thats all I got. There's nothing online to the process instructions but I don't want to screw this up. Can someone point to a link on instructions?

@ShadowsPapa has suggested above that he hand tightens bolts and waits a few hours to cure, then torques down the bolts but if this stuff is quick dry, wouldn't the RTV get hard before torquing down and how would that seal be anyway?

If this stuff sets up a lot faster than say, regular RTV or "Right Stuff", then don't let it sit long.
wet RTV which is almost like greasing the gasket.

They must want it to at least skin before oil hits it. That makes sense. Once it's oiled, it takes a lot longer to set as it's kept from air.

I've not used this stuff - but I'd guess it sets quicker - for production shops, and as long as you don't glob the crap out of it.
Sounds like your guy asked - Go with that.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

@Maximus Gladius
Straight from the service manual:

Faster skinning and setup. Made for production shops that have to keep moving.
That's what I wondered.

The problem with other RTVs is they get globbed on and act like grease, and causes gaskets to slip, or some even split, when tightened against really wet RTV.

So there you have it - do what they say, it's their sealant!

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Well, here’s why I pulled my engine oil pan. I could say because the engine turned 3 years and 100k km (60k miles) October 1st so, why not see what was sitting in there but the real reason is the carbon capture in my many filters caused me concern so I did my oil change last week, put a bore scope in there and saw the pick up screen had a lot of blockage from the carbon.

Oil changes were done at 50% oil life meter (approximately 5000 kms). Oil pressure is 30lbs from idle to 2900 RPM then immediately shoots to 81-83lbs @3000+ RPM. No ticks, runs smooth.
This is what I found

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Well, here’s why I pulled my engine oil pan. I could say because the engine turned 3 years and 100k km (60k miles) October 1st so, why not see what was sitting in there but the real reason is the carbon capture in my many filters caused me concern so I did my oil change last week, put a bore scope in there and saw the pick up screen had a lot of blockage from the carbon.

Oil changes were done at 50% oil life meter (approximately 5000 kms). Oil pressure is 30lbs from idle to 2900 RPM then immediately shoots to 81-83lbs @3000+ RPM. No ticks, runs smooth.
This is what I found

What the heck are you doing to get build-up like that? That's crazy, and I used to only see that on vehicles using bad oil and/or short drives, never getting thoroughly warmed up. They'd "coke up" inside and plug the oil return passages back to the pan from the tops of the heads. I'd have to chisel it out.

Looks like a fair amount of varnish as well for only 3 years/60K miles.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

What the heck are you doing to get build-up like that? That's crazy, and I used to only see that on vehicles using bad oil and/or short drives, never getting thoroughly warmed up. They'd "coke up" inside and plug the oil return passages back to the pan from the tops of the heads. I'd have to chisel it out.

Looks like a fair amount of varnish as well for only 3 years/60K miles.

I have no clue. It looks like I’ve never changed the oil. Wish I could fill it up with brake clean and give it a good run. Before I did my last two oil changes, I dumped in 1/2 can of sea foam and ran the first one 500 kms and the second one was 800 kms.

 

[Vtur]

I have no clue. It looks like I’ve never changed the oil. Wish I could fill it up with brake clean and give it a good run. Before I did my last two oil changes, I dumped in 1/2 can of sea foam and ran the first one 500 kms and the second one was 800 kms.

You changes your own oil?

 

[Maximus Gladius]

You changes your own oil?

Every one myself.

Let us not forget when I picked up the truck from having the second engine put in 3 years ago, October 1st, 100k kms ago, i immediately had to do a road trip of 1600 kms to BC to the mine site to clean up and winterize it.

When I got back home, I dumped the oil for its first oil change, 12L came out! Going to BC and back to Alberta, there’s a few mountain highway summits to climb plus the mine site is 25 kms of windy forestry roads that get quite rough at 18 kms up.

When I was about half way back to Calgary, engine was feeling sluggish so I called the service manager to tell him. Engine temps were reading 248F, this didn’t concern him and I was told to monitor it.

She’s hot! Man, what I know now… what I wish I knew then.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Got the pan cleaned and just put it in place with a couple nuts to keep the dust out and went to bed. I’m now back at it after a couple coffees to clean the RTV off the engine side. Im using Xylene solvent and a plastic knife to work the crap off. Lacquer thinner flashes off too fast.

 

[Lost1wing]

What oil are you using? I'd like to know for future reference. When I would open an engine that used a conventional oil, I would see that type of build up. I have never seen an engine look like that with using a full synthetic oil.

 

[Lost1wing]

What oil are you using? I'd like to know for future reference. We I would open an engine that used a conventional oil, I would see that type of build up. I have never seen an engine look like that with using a full synthetic oil.

I'm at 5 years 65k miles. If I saw any kind of a leak, I'd drop my pan in a second now that I've seen that. It would be mentally challenging to drop a pan that is bone dry.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

I'm at 5 yeats 65k miles. If I saw any kind of a leak, I'd drop my pan in a second now that I've seen that. It would be mentally challenging to drop a pan that is bone dry.

You’re the second one to say that it looks like conventional oil was used. I’ve thought many times…did I get a new engine when the second, paid for by insurance, was put in?? Price tag was over 10k cad for it. But why did this engine come shipped with 6L in it and the tech assumed it was shipped empty (transport rules) and then orders 6 more litres on the service work order?

I’ve used a few different “full synthetics” on this engine.
1. started off with Quaker State full synthetic
2. After a few oil changes, switched to Mobil 1, full syn
3. After a few more changes, switched to Pennzoil UP. It’s here the carbon showed up in my filters, a lot of carbon. Lab identified this black stuff in the filter to be “hydrocarbon”, that’s what our oil is. They could not tell me “why” it looked like that or became that way other than Pennzoil has more detergents in it than Mobil 1 and Quaker State.
4. After several more oil changes, filters were full of carbon so I switched to Mobil 1 Super syn. More oil changes done, carbon maintained a steady volume in the filters …
5. I’ve made the final switch to MOTUL 8100. I’ll stay here.

All oils were mixed 3 bottles 0/20, 2 bottles 5/30 which supports viscosity as it naturally drops thinner over its oil change duration so the 2 bottles of 5/30 just keeps the viscosity to what 0/20 is out of the bottle.

So here’s my dilemma, and the dealership dilemma,… before I dropped the oil pan, I emailed my service manager a photo of the pick up screen and what my oil filters look like. I then spoke with him and his problem is that the engine is performing and functioning as it should. There’s no symptoms. Oil pressure is normal, temps are normal, it runs quiet and strong… how does he sell the idea the engine needs a tear down or replacement?

Now we have photos that in all appearances, looks baked. He’ll have to reconsider based on the new photos and why the screen and filters look like they do.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Why I was switching through the different oils was to find one whose additives would help reduce the iron levels in my analysis reports. (All oil changes were analyzed and iron always maintained wear numbers at least 3x’s + higher than what y’all are seeing in your lab reports)

I wasn’t seeing any reduction in the iron wear metals so I resorted to slapping on a 700 pull lb force fishing magnet to the outside to pull all the iron out of the oil and not let it circulate through the system. That made a noticeable difference and the “ring” that you see in the dirty pan is the iron it grabbed.

 

[Lost1wing]

I have read an article from a popular synthetic oil company, that talked about mixing oil brands causing sludge. Your pan verifies their spin on their report. I have only used one brand full synthetic oil. This company recommended using a flush when changing brands. Even if both were synthetic oil.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

I have read an article from a popular synthetic oil company, that talked about mixing oil brands causing sludge. Your pan verifies their spin on their report. I have only used one brand full synthetic oil. This company recommended using a flush when changing brands. Even if both were synthetic oil.

Will look into that. Never done a flush. First time trying anything was to use Sea Foam

Sponsored