Has anyone added the Mojave Cast Iron Knuckles to a non-mojave??

[Afternoon Spray]

I'm looking for anyone who has added the Mojave Cast iron knuckles to a non Mojave. Was it worth it? Do you feel more comfortable bombing whoops and trails without the rest of the reinforced frame? Did you do it yourself? Was it a straightforward swap? Did you have a shop or the dealer install? Would love to hear all about it.

Apologies if this has been discussed in any other threads, I searched but didn't find much. Cheers!

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[Zachanadandy]

The Mopar cast knuckles are over priced in my opinion. The Reid racing steel knuckles are way beefier for the money. That said, knuckle failures are super rare on the JT and JL. Our 1st JLUR had aluminum knuckles. Lifted on 37s or 38s for most of its life and a fairly heavy build at 5400lbs with tools and recovery gear inside. Wheeled hard all over the country from the rubicon to Moab to Alabama. Bombed through the desert southwest on a regular basis. Knuckles were still fine after 63k miles when it was stolen. Replaced with a 2022 with the XR package so steel knuckles were standard. Wheeled just as hard on 39s and it's pushing 50k miles now. No decernable difference between them. My JT mojave has been on 37s since 1100 miles and sure it handles speeds in the desert better, but that's wheelbase and shocks and hydraulic bumpstops not knuckles or a little bit of frame reinforcement. If I didn't have steel knuckles on both rigs I still wouldn't worry about it.

 

[Afternoon Spray]

The Mopar cast knuckles are over priced in my opinion. The Reid racing steel knuckles are way beefier for the money. That said, knuckle failures are super rare on the JT and JL. Our 1st JLUR had aluminum knuckles. Lifted on 37s or 38s for most of its life and a fairly heavy build at 5400lbs with tools and recovery gear inside. Wheeled hard all over the country from the rubicon to Moab to Alabama. Bombed through the desert southwest on a regular basis. Knuckles were still fine after 63k miles when it was stolen. Replaced with a 2022 with the XR package so steel knuckles were standard. Wheeled just as hard on 39s and it's pushing 50k miles now. No decernable difference between them. My JT mojave has been on 37s since 1100 miles and sure it handles speeds in the desert better, but that's wheelbase and shocks and hydraulic bumpstops not knuckles or a little bit of frame reinforcement. If I didn't have steel knuckles on both rigs I still wouldn't worry about it.

Thanks! I appreciate hearing your experience. My tentative plan would be to add Fox Performance Elite 2.5 shocks, and bump stops with the Mopar Cast Iron Knuckles to create sort of a Rubijave. I would have purchased a Mojave but I was pretty picky about getting a manual transmission and I got a really good deal on my Rubicon.

For some reason, there are some parts that I just feel like should stick with OEM and the knuckles are one of them. I can't really explain it.

 

[D_JT]

For what its worth. Diesel and 392 also have cast knuckles. My JT Rubicon diesel has cast knuckles. Might make searching for them easier.

 

[intentsrig]

When I replaced my balljoints and knuckles on my JL the factory alloy knuckles had started to wallow along the top of the upper balljoint hole. Or so it appeared. I still have them in the garage I'll see if I can grab them for a picture.

Could have been some sort of damage from hammer the crap out of the knuckle when it was stuck to my balljoint.

Seen a few instances of a broken factory alloy knuckle but as stated it seems pretty uncommon.

pics added

 

[Zachanadandy]

Thanks! I appreciate hearing your experience. My tentative plan would be to add Fox Performance Elite 2.5 shocks, and bump stops with the Mopar Cast Iron Knuckles to create sort of a Rubijave. I would have purchased a Mojave but I was pretty picky about getting a manual transmission and I got a really good deal on my Rubicon.

For some reason, there are some parts that I just feel like should stick with OEM and the knuckles are one of them. I can't really explain it.

I'm pretty much the polar opposite. If there's an aftermarket version it's likely better and more cost effective in my experience. It's crazy to me to watch people go full build on the stock front axle. Knuckles $1k, gears $1k to $1500, ball joints $500-$1k, rcv shafts $1k. All to end up with a weak FAD housing, not enough separation angle between the inner C's and pinion so you can't run good caster and a good pinion angle when lifted if you delete the FAD, and a factory locker that is weaker than anything else on the market and the Jeep only allows you to use it in 4LO. With the money spent and what you could sell the stock front axle for you'll have spent more than UD44 money and damn near Dana 60 money while being weaker than either. I've had the mentality of wheel it until it breaks and then upgrade...and 150k+ miles later between our JLs and JT and nothing has broken yet.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I'm looking for anyone who has added the Mojave Cast iron knuckles to a non Mojave. Was it worth it? Do you feel more comfortable bombing whoops and trails without the rest of the reinforced frame? Did you do it yourself? Was it a straightforward swap? Did you have a shop or the dealer install? Would love to hear all about it.

Apologies if this has been discussed in any other threads, I searched but didn't find much. Cheers!

I have them. And did the change myself on my 21 rubicon. Same mold, so it’s totally straight forward. Reid claims they’re stronger than mopar, but they’re all of $50 more, and retain adjustable steering stops. They also don’t have the extra drag link casting for right hand drive rigs. I always thought that was lazy on Reid’s part. I definitely feel better when mistakes happen. The occasional dip that surprises you at higher speeds, or that drop off that you thought was 2 feet shorter.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I have them. And did the change myself on my 21 rubicon. Same mold, so it’s totally straight forward. Reid claims they’re stronger than mopar, but they’re all of $50 more, and retain adjustable steering stops. They also don’t have the extra drag link casting for right hand drive rigs. I always thought that was lazy on Reid’s part. I definitely feel better when mistakes happen. The occasional dip that surprises you at higher speeds, or that drop off that you thought was 2 feet shorter.

Between Reid and mopar cast iron, I’m sure Reid is mathematically a LITTLE stronger, but show me a mopar cast iron knuckle that’s broken, and I’d care. But I’d rather not have the extra drag link casting and spend 50 more.

 

[Zachanadandy]

Between Reid and mopar cast iron, I’m sure Reid is mathematically a LITTLE stronger, but show me a mopar cast iron knuckle that’s broken, and I’d care. But I’d rather not have the extra drag link casting and spend 50 more.

In 8 years on the JL and JT forums I think I've only seen 2 broken aluminum knuckles. The axle is far more likely to break at the FAD than to have a knuckle failure even running aluminum in both my opinion and in the number of broken axles posted. Personally I'd save the $1k and just run the stock knuckles. I guess on the bright side if you do hit something hard enough that it would have broken a knuckle you'll already have steel knuckles to move to the new axle?

 

[Stinggrey 21 Rubi]

I run a 35 inch tire and trail ride at a slow pace. I rotate my tires every 10k miles and every single time I rotate tires I check the torque on my aluminum knuckles and they have loosened at tie rod and drag link. If they get loose and start to wallow out they will become junk in no time.

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