Best Trickle Charger for Mojave/Gladiator with ESS and Dual battery system?

[ShadowsPapa]

You can ground it here.

Yes, and my BatteryMinders have a lead disconnect so you can leave the leads connected there, but disconnect the charger when not in use (driving, etc.)
Then when you want to charge, just reconnect the leads to the charger.
I like my method (I never have to open the hood), but this is a good alternative depending on your charger and needs and situation.
that's the ideal ground spot.

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[Lost1wing]

Ahhh!

 

[gatorboy]

I use(d) a "Battery Tender" maintainer now for 4 years without any issues at all even with the ESS battery I plug it into the 7-pin trailer connector at the rear bumper.

Battery Tender all the way. Best little charger I’ve ever had.

 

[Lost1wing]

I have NoCo, Battery Tender, Battery Minder, Sears 10 amp (non smart for dead batteries) and a few others. I hardly use the Sears 10 amp for the reason, if you forget that it is connected to a battery, it will remind you to go buy a new battery. NoCo's, I have 4 NoCo Genius 2d now. I would probably guess that I will get a few more, and a few more extension cords. That leaves me with the 5 Battery Minders ( 3 are 10 years old) and two Battery Tenders. It sounds like a full time job just keeping all of my batteries charged. Having multiple charges makes life easier not having to do a search and rescue mission just to find one to use. Hard wired NoCos are so easy that I can ask my wife to plug it in. Just be aware that these 1 and 2 amp chargers are maintainers and really should not be used to recover a dead battery. Most likely, they will even prevent you charging a battery if the battery is below the chargers min threshold.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Just be aware that these 1 and 2 amp chargers are maintainers and really should not be used to recover a dead battery. Most likely, they will even prevent you charging a battery if the battery is below the chargers min threshold.

Yes - this..........

 

[joeym7]

So one more question Folks if you don't mind, in the two options to connect the tenders negative lead, both which got many "thumbs-up", post #25 by Lost Wing "above the plate on the batteries negative" (and which I have always used since day 1 with these tenders), and post #28 by jhale1800 "ground bolt on side of engine compartment where fender attaches", is there any reason to believe that if I start using option #2, that it (might) make a difference in getting more longevity (vs only 6-8 weeks) out of my new Ctek tender?

Thanks in advance for any opinions,
-Joseph

 

[Lost1wing]

So one more question Folks if you don't mind, in the two options to connect the tenders negative lead, both which got many "thumbs-up", post #25 by Lost Wing "above the plate on the batteries negative" (and which I have always used since day 1 with these tenders), and post #28 by jhale1800 "ground bolt on side of engine compartment where fender attaches", is there any reason to believe that if I start using option #2, that it (might) make a difference in getting more longevity (vs only 6-8 weeks) out of my new Ctek tender?

Thanks in advance for any opinions,
-Joseph

I think what ever is most convenient to you. I have a few things going on in the area above the fender ground stud, so that is why I chose the stud above the IBS. It makes no difference electrically.

If you had to draw out a schematic for both install locations, the drawings would be identical.

 

[WanderingTrail]

I have had a NOCO genius 5 for a couple years now. It revived both of my batteries after the Jeep was sitting for 7 months, batteries were at 8 volts. Took 3 days to get them fully charged, but it did its job and the Jeep fired right up. The instructions in the NOCO said to not connect to the negative terminal on the battery, but to use an engine ground. I used the ground located on the side of the vehicle by the battery. That ground can be finicky, I didn't get it to charge at first and figured that the negative wasn't connecting.

Ron

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I think what ever is most convenient to you. I have a few things going on in the area above the fender ground stud, so that is why I chose the stud above the IBS. It makes no difference electrically.

If you had to draw out a schematic for both install locations, the drawings would be identical.

Yeah, electrically, the would be the same, assuming tight ground connections

 

[Lost1wing]

Yeah, electrically, the would be the same, assuming tight ground connections

I have a good friend who does a fine job with paint and body work. He paints and clearcoats everything. His projects that call for bare metal (from factory) he sprays them with satin clear to retain a some what of the factory look. He painted firewalls, frames, engine blocks and powersteering and alternator brackets. Needless to say he had all kinds of electrical issues from the start. Now days, after cleaning his metal parts, he installs a bolt and washer wherever there is ground cable or bonding strap. His thinking was once he tightened the bolt, it would conduct electricity. He also found out that when you unplug an electrical connector that has been plugged in for 50 years, it probably will give you problems when reinstalled. He cleans all his connections now.

 

[jhale1800]

So one more question Folks if you don't mind, in the two options to connect the tenders negative lead, both which got many "thumbs-up", post #25 by Lost Wing "above the plate on the batteries negative" (and which I have always used since day 1 with these tenders), and post #28 by jhale1800 "ground bolt on side of engine compartment where fender attaches", is there any reason to believe that if I start using option #2, that it (might) make a difference in getting more longevity (vs only 6-8 weeks) out of my new Ctek tender?

Thanks in advance for any opinions,
-Joseph

It shouldn't matter. If I remember correctly, my charger instructions said to use body grounding connection instead of going directly to battery. If you don't use the body, make sure you connect it to the Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS) like others have suggested. Use some dielectric grease on your terminal connections to prevent corrosion and maintain a good connection. If your maintainer isn't keeping up, consider checking for draws in the electrical system by measuring voltage drops across each fuse.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I have a good friend who does a fine job with paint and body work. He paints and clearcoats everything. His projects that call for bare metal (from factory) he sprays them with satin clear to retain a some what of the factory look. He painted firewalls, frames, engine blocks and powersteering and alternator brackets. Needless to say he had all kinds of electrical issues from the start. Now days, after cleaning his metal parts, he installs a bolt and washer wherever there is ground cable or bonding strap. His thinking was once he tightened the bolt, it would conduct electricity. He also found out that when you unplug an electrical connector that has been plugged in for 50 years, it probably will give you problems when reinstalled. He cleans all his connections now.

Thus, the sort of ground connectors found on many vehicles of the past -
This is a blower motor I restored, put the same sort of end on as original (as close as I could buy, anyway)

my charger instructions said to use body grounding connection instead of going directly to battery.

Two reasons (and one dates back decades):
The last connection on, and the first connection off, is away from the battery and the hydrogen and oxygen emitted by the charging process to prevent an explosion
and
on modern vehicles, to ensure it IS above the IBS and not directly on the battery terminal..

I watched as my boss was dealing with a battery he was charging, a spark set off the hydrogen and it literally exploded in his face. Parts of battery all over the shop, acid everywhere - right over to the hose to wash off his face. If he hadn't work glasses, he'd likely be blind.
AGM batteries run under pressure and don't directly vent like flooded cells, but still can be risky.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

I watched as my boss was dealing with a battery he was charging, a spark set off the hydrogen and it literally exploded in his face. Parts of battery all over the shop, acid everywhere - right over to the hose to wash off his face. If he hadn't work glasses, he'd likely be blind.
AGM batteries run under pressure and don't directly vent like flooded cells, but still can be risky.

That sounds like either a really bad day or a really good day. Depending on how you feel about your boss.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

That sounds like either a really bad day or a really good day. Depending on how you feel about your boss.

Andy was my boss when I worked in his shop in HS. He was like a father - at times tough, but the tough was for teaching, he was also a great friend. When he was forced to stop working in the shop (the property had since been sold again) and was forced to retire - he remembered a comment I made to him back in the 70s and called my father and asked if I was still interested in the Kent Moore AMC tools they had as well as some other tools and odds and ends. He died just about 3 years later.
I did the VICA thing through him and his shop. His son was a knucklehead back then, but has since settled down into a really nice guy.

 

[cuteangel1007]

Hello everyone,
I am finally getting my commuter vehicle running again, so my Machete Mama will be sitting during my work week, possibly weeks at a time. I have heard about the need to maintain the battery due to the advanced techy crap they come with. (I will be glad to get back into my 2010 Mazdaspeed3 even though I do like some of the techy features.) I digress.

I realize I need to purchase said battery maintainer. I have read most of the posts here and understand most of them? ( Shadowspapa and lost1wing get a little technical and I get overwhelmed so I stop reading and move on.) Sorry guys ‍

I just want to know the easiest, most simple product to use, and way to connect said product.
I had a motorcycle on which I used a Battery Tender Jr, connected the rings to the battery and had the “plug & play” connection. (I did the work all by myself ! ) It was super easy to use and when I sold the bike I gave the guy the tender also.
I would like a reliable, similar to use product. I won’t be doing anything like connecting to the hitch plug or whatever. I will be keeping it simple.

OH!! I nearly forgot to mention I park outside (no shade) in the Sacramento Valley area, we get up to 110 (air temp) degrees in summer, (vehicle gets much hotter) so I need something that won’t malfunction in the heat and can be kept outdoors, or the best way to set up for outdoor storage.

Ok go! Recommendations please!

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