2021 Mojave Overland Build…Almost there!

[Backcountry ADV]

Nice build !

Tutuapp 9Apps​

Much Appreciated Brandon! She's been a work in progress for a while as I've had a few other projects distracting me (Couple other F-150 builds, Couple KTM Dual Sport/Adventure Bikes, General XP4, and some cool new long range rifles ) Now it's "Jeep Time" again for some much anticipated upgrades!! Stay Tuned. I'll be working through the Solar, Dual Battery / Power Management, Fridge, Area Lighting, etc soon!

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[NotAnotherG]

Found an older pic but this should get you an idea. Let me know if you need more info. Happy to help!

Thanks for the info! Enjoying my A2. Been thinking about an a

Found an older pic but this should get you an idea. Let me know if you need more info. Happy to help!

Thanks for the info! Nice awning mount too ?. It's definitely on my list now
Thanks again ??

 

[Cptcoob]

Very nice Jeep. Looks a lot like mine. I am actually going to order the 23zero Armadillo tent today. I have been going back and forth with either the a2 or x2. I think I am going to go with the x2 just because it is 13 lbs lighter, and because of the aluminum cover.
I am going to have the same issue as you had with the awning. So thank you for researching a solution for the rest of us.
I swapped a 392 V8 from Americas Most Wanted 4x4, and I love it. Now I am running on 40s. I also had the shop who installed the motor, install a dual compressor and 2 air tanks where the spare tire was. These are protected by an aluminum skid plate. The air is used to engage the front and rear ARB lockers which are house the 60s axles. As well as to air up the tires. I had them install an air chuck in the engine bay and one in the rear step of the Rebel Offroad rear bumper.
Have a great everyone!

 

[Backcountry ADV]

Very nice Jeep. Looks a lot like mine. I am actually going to order the 23zero Armadillo tent today. I have been going back and forth with either the a2 or x2. I think I am going to go with the x2 just because it is 13 lbs lighter, and because of the aluminum cover.
I am going to have the same issue as you had with the awning. So thank you for researching a solution for the rest of us.
I swapped a 392 V8 from Americas Most Wanted 4x4, and I love it. Now I am running on 40s. I also had the shop who installed the motor, install a dual compressor and 2 air tanks where the spare tire was. These are protected by an aluminum skid plate. The air is used to engage the front and rear ARB lockers which are house the 60s axles. As well as to air up the tires. I had them install an air chuck in the engine bay and one in the rear step of the Rebel Offroad rear bumper.
Have a great everyone!

Alex

I'm definitely interested in chatting about the 392 AMW Swap as that's next on my list after I finish the dual batter/solar and some Area Lighting.

If you're available this week, DM me your info and I'll reach out. Beautiful Rig, especially in Black! I've got a ton of questions on the build with the 392 I'm researching. Your input/experience would be awesome.

- Brian

 

[Aleph]

How is the ride compared to stock at higher speeds/bumps off road?

 

[Backcountry ADV]

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I'm running their Armadillo A2 Aluminum (RTT) Roof Top Tent

I also utilize their Peregrine Series 270 Awning

Inside the Tent I utilize their awesome Royal Sleeping Bags as a quilt (Queen or 62" Size)

Outside I utilize their incredible Springbak Chairs – Portable and super easy set up!

 

[Mojaveon40s]

That thing is a real beauty.

 

[Backcountry ADV]

That thing is a real beauty.

Much appreciated! I've got some questions regarding your build too. I saw you're 40's on your Mojave! I'm about to replace the Geolander 37's on mine and am looking at 38's or 40's. Did you upgrade the dana 44's ?

 

[NotAnotherG]

Here’s a quick update on the Gladiator Build. As mentioned, once the RCI rack and 23Zero USA RTT (Armadillo A2 Aluminum version) was added I had no clearance nor solutions for mounting the 23Zero USA 270 Deg Awning System.

After searching the interwebs and a million pics/companies I decided to set out to collaborate with a local shop to design and fabricate an easy to install solution for the clearance and adjustments needed to properly install/mount the awning.

Here’s a few pics of the Rack / RTT / And Awning System we designed.

For those in need or interested, we will be offering these as a bolt on solution. I’m in the patent process currently and will have these ready for market shortly.

The finished product looks factory finished and has worked flawlessly as well as being solid.

**First 3 pics are the clearance and problem with all the current available direct mount brackets for an awning and this rack/RTT Design.

Additional pics are the solution!

Your awning mount, what'd you do there? Its nice and tight to the rack, is the rear hanging beyond the tailgate to avoid rear door clearance at the front? Is that an additional bar under the tent( raise the tent)? Ive been trying to position mine to clear the rear door and the hump on the A2when open. Ends up having the awning too high up, and Way to far out. . Tours looks good

 

[Backcountry ADV]

Your awning mount, what'd you do there? Its nice and tight to the rack, is the rear hanging beyond the tailgate to avoid rear door clearance at the front? Is that an additional bar under the tent( raise the tent)? Ive been trying to position mine to clear the rear door and the hump on the A2when open. Ends up having the awning too high up, and Way to far out. . Tours looks good

Gary,

thanks for dropping by. Yes to alot of your questions and I'll reiterate.

1. No one makes what we need with the Armadillo Tents (23Zero included) so I designed and fabricated this set up as a turn key solution.
2. The rear is positioned slightly further back to allow more offset to the rear door as I wanted the awning as tight and low as possible while still being able to walk under it. I'm 6'6'' and can still walk under un-interrupted.
3. It is an additional set of bars to raise the tent about 2.5" off the rack for the clearance to have the custom adjustable brackets for the awning.
4. It's a square tube in tube design thats also line-x coated to match and protect materials. It's fully adjustable in height and pitch away from the rack/tent with a few pre-drilled holes and locking pins to allow you to set up however you need. The rear overhang is probably about 10 inches but I could raise it and have it tucked by overlapping the rear door.

If interested I can produce this based on your rack (DM for details). It's a pretty slick design and is engineered to be adjustable as well as completely removable. It's plenty solid too. I'm looking to add 23Zero's full enclosure wall system next (out of stock) to make this a rolling hotel for the Backcountry!

 

[Mojaveon40s]

Much appreciated! I've got some questions regarding your build too. I saw you're 40's on your Mojave! I'm about to replace the Geolander 37's on mine and am looking at 38's or 40's. Did you upgrade the dana 44's ?

Sorry for the delay. I have not upgraded the axle shafts themselves, however it’s in the shop right now getting the Artec axle trusses welded on and replacing the RC steering stabilizer replaced with the Falcon adjustable stabilizer. I’m also still running 4:10 gears, but will be upgrading to 5:13s next month as they are on back order until the first or second week of December from what I’m told. Down the road I’ll probably swap the Dana 44 axles to an RCV performance axle. That way I can keep the M210 in the front(especially since they’re trussed) and not have to go with a Dana 60. Gets rid of the u-joints. For me, that will be the most cost friendly bang for my buck. The rear will most likely keep the stock axle unless my use of the jeep changes. The way I currently plan to use it, the rear stock axle along with trusses and 5:13 gears will be sufficient.

Of course this is just my 2 cents, but I’m no mechanical guru.

 

[Backcountry ADV]

Sorry for the delay. I have not upgraded the axle shafts themselves, however it’s in the shop right now getting the Artec axle trusses welded on and replacing the RC steering stabilizer replaced with the Falcon adjustable stabilizer. I’m also still running 4:10 gears, but will be upgrading to 5:13s next month as they are on back order until the first or second week of December from what I’m told. Down the road I’ll probably swap the Dana 44 axles to an RCV performance axle. That way I can keep the M210 in the front(especially since they’re trussed) and not have to go with a Dana 60. Gets rid of the u-joints. For me, that will be the most cost friendly bang for my buck. The rear will most likely keep the stock axle unless my use of the jeep changes. The way I currently plan to use it, the rear stock axle along with trusses and 5:13 gears will be sufficient.

Of course this is just my 2 cents, but I’m no mechanical guru.

If needed, I have wholesale accounts and can get most items at a discounted rate. Also, I have 5:13's in stock (revolution gear). I just replaced my rear 5:13's that were Yukon gears with the Revolution Gears (supposed to be much better) and 32 spline 4340 axles from Revolution Gear along with a full bearing/seal kit. I have the Artec Trusses coming as well for both F & R. I'll weld those in when I do the RCV fronts. After speaking with Josh there I might opt for a custom set to do a torq torsion differential in the front vs electic locker. The e-lockers run open diffs until engaged. I'm thinking of adding Torsion (limited slip) Front and Rear to replace the e-locker so I have both rear tires pulling and same with front. I'm planning on the AMW Hemi swap next year and don't want all that torque on one rear axles, especially on 38-40's on the street. * I don't want to have lock the e-lockers all the time either as that would add undue stress.

The only concern is the factory Dana 44's (mines the updated 05 Version) have an offset pin in the lockers. Nobody seemed to have the actually axle dimensions so I dug in and found them myself. Revolution and other companies can make custom axles and CV's for the front so I'll upgade everything to 35 spline or heavier when I do the Artec braces and diffs. Should be much improved over the stock set up and an actual posi-track. It will be well documented as I can only imagine others are seeking the info.

 

[Mojaveon40s]

If needed, I have wholesale accounts and can get most items at a discounted rate. Also, I have 5:13's in stock (revolution gear). I just replaced my rear 5:13's that were Yukon gears with the Revolution Gears (supposed to be much better) and 32 spline 4340 axles from Revolution Gear along with a full bearing/seal kit. I have the Artec Trusses coming as well for both F & R. I'll weld those in when I do the RCV fronts. After speaking with Josh there I might opt for a custom set to do a torq torsion differential in the front vs electic locker. The e-lockers run open diffs until engaged. I'm thinking of adding Torsion (limited slip) Front and Rear to replace the e-locker so I have both rear tires pulling and same with front. I'm planning on the AMW Hemi swap next year and don't want all that torque on one rear axles, especially on 38-40's on the street. * I don't want to have lock the e-lockers all the time either as that would add undue stress.

The only concern is the factory Dana 44's (mines the updated 05 Version) have an offset pin in the lockers. Nobody seemed to have the actually axle dimensions so I dug in and found them myself. Revolution and other companies can make custom axles and CV's for the front so I'll upgade everything to 35 spline or heavier when I do the Artec braces and diffs. Should be much improved over the stock set up and an actual posi-track. It will be well documented as I can only imagine others are seeking the info.

That’s going to be nice when you get finished. I really don’t know much about any of it and learning as I go. My axles are now trussed that caused me to have to swap the Rough Country stabilizer for the Falcon Nexus adjustable stabilizer due to the RC not fitting after the trusses.

I said I was going to swap my 4:10s to 5:13s next, but after the stabilizer swap I have more play in my steering and get a lot more feedback through the steering wheel when hitting bumps and just general driving. I’m not sure if it’s a combination of the new stabilizer on stiffer axle housing and running the stabilizer on firm. With that said, I just ordered steer smarts yeti xd tie rod assembly, top mount/no drill drag link, adjustable front track bar, sector shaft brace and a 1-5/8s clamp for the stabilizer. This will beef up my steering and support my 40s better and hopefully take the play out of my steering.

on another note, I measured from the center of my wheel to the bottom of the fender flare and it was approximately 28”. I’m guessing the person that had it before me added 4-4 1/2” of lift.

What are your thoughts?

 

[Backcountry ADV]

That’s going to be nice when you get finished. I really don’t know much about any of it and learning as I go. My axles are now trussed that caused me to have to swap the Rough Country stabilizer for the Falcon Nexus adjustable stabilizer due to the RC not fitting after the trusses.

I said I was going to swap my 4:10s to 5:13s next, but after the stabilizer swap I have more play in my steering and get a lot more feedback through the steering wheel when hitting bumps and just general driving. I’m not sure if it’s a combination of the new stabilizer on stiffer axle housing and running the stabilizer on firm. With that said, I just ordered steer smarts yeti xd tie rod assembly, top mount/no drill drag link, adjustable front track bar, sector shaft brace and a 1-5/8s clamp for the stabilizer. This will beef up my steering and support my 40s better and hopefully take the play out of my steering.

on another note, I measured from the center of my wheel to the bottom of the fender flare and it was approximately 28”. I’m guessing the person that had it before me added 4-4 1/2” of lift.

What are your thoughts?

I actually just took measurements of mine from a few different points like the RE Steps/Sliders, Roof/Hardtop and Top of my Solar panel on the roof of the 23Zero RTT before swapping tires. I was on 37's and just installed the 40's yesterday. I'm loading up for a quick Elk Hunt this weekend but will drop some numbers/updates next week. The measurments should get you in the ballpark as I'm on a Clayton Offroad Overland Plus 3.5" kit and 37's and will have same dimensions with the new 40's for comparison.

I am awaiting the front truss kit from Artec and then need to order the RCV's for the front axle to beef everything up as well. I was going to do a 2.5 ton steering kit but need to do more recon on what fits with the Artec trusses, etc. I also want to swap springs for an extra inch on the Clayton Kit (they said they're developing a 4.5" set of springs but it's a couple months out) so I was looking into custom springs from a company Deaver Spring Recommends. I think that would promote a bit more clearance on the 40's and more articulation.

Another consideration is limiting straps so I don't over extend anything. Have you done anything in that department?

 

[Mojaveon40s]

I haven’t even considered limiting straps and to be completely honest, I didn’t even know that was a thing. After a quick search, it makes a lot of sense to use them. I’m a little far off from doing anything in that department. I’d like to add some long travel control arms at some point after gears.

I’m really going for an overland setup that I can take anywhere I want when I want. Every time I get something upgraded I realize there’s something else I’m going to need. lol I’m learning a lot from your posts so I’m here for it. Curious to see what your updated measurements are.

I’ll have my Steering components swapped by Monday so I’m looking forward to that. The quality and workmanship of the yeti xd parts seem to be well beyond the stock parts. Everything seems like it will be very sturdy. I’ll let you know how it rides when I get it done.

I’m a little ways off, but I like to think ahead. I can’t decide of if I want to go with a hard bed cover with rack and RTT or if I want a nice shell that I could fit my spare tire in at an angle and still have some room to put other things. Possibly mount an air compressor in the stock spare tire space underneath the bed?

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