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Opinion on trading 2022 JTR for 21 JTRD

rharr

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I have had slow to react def gauge before. but not in the hours, maybe 15 20 minutes
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My thought exactly. I’d love to have a hemi powered Gladiator and hopefully we will see one eventually but for my use, the diesel seems ideal.

The trip home from Delaware ended up being 1524 miles so I got plenty of time behind the wheel and saw a lot of country. No complaint at all about the power of the diesel. I had adaptive cruise set at speeds from 40 all the way up to 90 for a few minutes in Arkansas and it never had any trouble jumping right back up to speed when the lane opened up. For the entire drive I ended up averaging 24.2 mpg. The wind for the last 800 miles on the interstate was out of the north west and according to my watch was blowing 15 to 18 mph every time I checked. It didn’t push the diesel around as much as I’m used to in the blue one but the mileage dropped and had settled just over 23 when I got off the interstate. For the last 60 miles I was going south and the tailwind pushed it back up over 24.

Something I’ll mention because it was unexpected and helped the mileage. The tires were at 38 psi cold when I picked it up. I decided to drive it a little to see how bad it was with the AT3s that firm. It wasn’t rough at all and no wandering so I never dropped the pressure. I’ll chalk test it in a few days but do any of y’all run the psi that high?
Just an FYI, if you ever do decide to go with a Hemi AMW4x4 can do a Diesel to Hemi swap. It currently runs about $10K more than the gas to hemi swap for the extra fabrication & programming work but they stated that if they start doing more of them that price could come down.
 

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Question about the DEF tank. My gauge had dropped about 40% when I filled up after driving approx 1,200 miles. I bought a jug and it took around 2 gallons to fill it back up which was about what I expected. What seemed odd is that it took a couple hours of driving before the gauge showed the DEF tank back to full. It was moving just extremely slowly. I added a bottle of Rislone 4784 after the dealer topped off the tank. Does this sound like a crystallization problem or does it usualy take a while before the gauge shows full again?
The DEF gauge is a sonar type gage, not a float gauge. It bounces a signal from the bottom of the tank and waits for the signal to return to measure the level. It's wildly inaccurate and can be slow. I've seen it say I have 250 miles to go, and didn't change for another 800-some miles. This is why I usually wait until I'm within 100 miles left and then I fill it.

Because of how inaccurate the gauge is, it's a toss up how much of a jug you'll actually get in, and what fill level you'll get to. I've put a 2.5gal jug in at 50% and seen it climb to 75%, and I've filled at 50% and seen it get to 100%. Hell, I've seen it be around 30% and I can't even get a whole 2.5gal jug in.
 

rharr

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OP,
as a new diesel owner, most truck stops along the highway sell DEF out of the pump and it is generally half the price of the jugs of DEF. Pumps are in the back where the big rigs fill up. There is nothing stopping you from using the DEF pumps other then funny looks. Some truck stops you have to go in and tell the teller to activate the pump and some you just feed it a credit card.

Don't buy fuel from the big rig pumps unless desperate, they have a higher tax rate meant for heavy trucks.
 
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Idlethunder

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OP,
as a new diesel owner, most truck stops along the highway sell DEF out of the pump and it is generally half the price of the jugs of DEF. Pumps are in the back where the big rigs fill up. There is nothing stopping you from using the DEF pumps other then funny looks. Some truck stops you have to go in and tell the teller to activate the pump and some you just feed it a credit card.

Don't buy fuel from the big rig pumps unless desperate, they have a higher tax rate meant for heavy trucks.
I actually knew some truck stops had DEF pumps but forgot about it when needing it for the Gladiator. We also use it in an F350 and that is the only way I've ever filled a DEF tank without making a mess. Thank you for the reminder!
 

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Idlethunder

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The DEF gauge is a sonar type gage, not a float gauge. It bounces a signal from the bottom of the tank and waits for the signal to return to measure the level. It's wildly inaccurate and can be slow. I've seen it say I have 250 miles to go, and didn't change for another 800-some miles. This is why I usually wait until I'm within 100 miles left and then I fill it.

Because of how inaccurate the gauge is, it's a toss up how much of a jug you'll actually get in, and what fill level you'll get to. I've put a 2.5gal jug in at 50% and seen it climb to 75%, and I've filled at 50% and seen it get to 100%. Hell, I've seen it be around 30% and I can't even get a whole 2.5gal jug in.
Thank you! My initial search didn't find any good info, that's why I asked here. After your reply then rephrasing the search, I found it. I'm fairly sure what happened is that I filled the tank too full and submerged the sensor. From what I read, once you do that it creates a problem and it won't read correctly until the level comes down below the sensor. Rookie mistake and I'll be more careful next time.
 

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Thank you! My initial search didn't find any good info, that's why I asked here. After your reply then rephrasing the search, I found it. I'm fairly sure what happened is that I filled the tank too full and submerged the sensor. From what I read, once you do that it creates a problem and it won't read correctly until the level comes down below the sensor. Rookie mistake and I'll be more careful next time.
Once you get time. You will have to do the fuel filler neck mod. Removing the restrictor.
 

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I'm backing out on the one I was planning to go see this weekend. Everything about it sounds and looks great but the dealer selling it has the hair on the back of my neck standing up. I've never in my life been able to deal with a big city car dealer and this is no exception. This one had a problem with me bringing a certified check late in the day tomorrow for payment. In their defense, at the time I would have arrived around 4pm their time, 5pm my time. Their argument was that my bank would be closed and they could not let me take the vehicle until payment was verified. The only way I could take the Jeep quickly was a wire transfer. Strange to me for a certified check but the world is different than it was 30 years ago so I let it go. Rather than agree to a wire, I changed my flight to arrive there around 9am their time Friday morning. If they had a problem with an after hours bank check, this gave them all day to verify the funds. Rather than agree, they asked for partial payment via check but at least 5k from a credit or debit card. That was the last straw with them. Anyone else heard of this?
Nope. MAJOR RED FLAG for me. Screw that shit.
That’s all very normal. It’s to protect the dealership from fraud. Because people suck and try to defraud dealerships way more than vice versa. I’ve watched the policies change over the years as customers find new ways to try to, and sometimes actually successfully, screw dealerships out of many many thousands of dollars. It is unfortunate that honest people get caught up in it too, but you’d be shocked at the things I’ve seen over the years.
 
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Idlethunder

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Once you get time. You will have to do the fuel filler neck mod. Removing the restrictor.
That is actually one of the first thing on the list for this weekend. I'm planning to use channel locks and turn it as gently as possible until the tabs give up. I've seen videos of people doing and it didn't look that hard. I've also got one saved where they completely remove it and push the tabs in with a screwdriver. If it feels like I'm using too much force I'll go that route.
 
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Idlethunder

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That’s all very normal. It’s to protect the dealership from fraud. Because people suck and try to defraud dealerships way more than vice versa. I’ve watched the policies change over the years as customers find new ways to try to, and sometimes actually successfully, screw dealerships out of many many thousands of dollars. It is unfortunate that honest people get caught up in it too, but you’d be shocked at the things I’ve seen over the years.
It is definitely a crazy world these days. I certainly understand a dealership protecting themselves but there was more to it than just that. Not one single thing really stood out but I got a bad feeling from them. Spending the time and money to fly out there just didn’t make sense at that point.
 

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Something I’ll mention because it was unexpected and helped the mileage. The tires were at 38 psi cold when I picked it up. I decided to drive it a little to see how bad it was with the AT3s that firm. It wasn’t rough at all and no wandering so I never dropped the pressure. I’ll chalk test it in a few days but do any of y’all run the psi that high?
Ran my (stock) set of Falken Wildpeak AT's at 37psi. Got 65k out of that set. Rode a little harshly, but not terrible. Just swapped to Milestar Patagonia XT's (35"x12.5"R17) but have not re-geared yet. Running them @ 37psi also. Definitely a better ride than either the Falkens, or the (33"x12.5"R17) BFG KO2's on my wife's JKU (which I run @33 psi).... so far at least. Only have ~400 miles on the Patagonias so far though.
 
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Idlethunder

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Ran my (stock) set of Falken Wildpeak AT's at 37psi. Got 65k out of that set. Rode a little harshly, but not terrible. Just swapped to Milestar Patagonia XT's (35"x12.5"R17) but have not re-geared yet. Running them @ 37psi also. Definitely a better ride than either the Falkens, or the (33"x12.5"R17) BFG KO2's on my wife's JKU (which I run @33 psi).... so far at least. Only have ~400 miles on the Patagonias so far though.
The original plan was to take the Clayton lift off the 3.6 Gladiator and use it along with new springs on the diesel. After the long trip home and because it rides and drives so well, I'm not sure I want to mess with the suspension. Without lifting it, I wouldn't use the 37x12.5R17s off the 3.6 and that would hurt because they have less than 20k on them. The plus side of it is that I could sell them and the -12mm offset wheels that poke out further than I like, and get some wheels that I'm happy with.

I've been wanting to try the Patagonia MT-02s but if I go with 35" tires, I might use Toyo Open Country A/T III in 35x11.50R17. That would allow me to use a set of 392 take off wheels I got a few years ago that I really like. I've got some time to decide which direction to go because I don't have much money left to buy nice things for the diesel until I sell the gasser.
 
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Just ordered 5 gallon jugs of 100% synthetic European 5w-40 Amsoil and 1 Mopar filter. With enough oil for two changes, why only one filter you ask? After the oil, that's all my debit card could handle for today :crying:
 

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https://www.dieselfiltersonline.com/

if you buy mopar, these guys have good prices
Thank you! We get a discount at the local parts store so I paid $85 and didn't think that was terrible. I am not set on Mopar, usually I buy Wix filters. They didn't have one in stock for the JT though.

The dealer changed the oil when they got it about a month ago and there is only about 2k on it now. I'm going to change it either this weekend or the next, depending on when the oil gets here, just to be safe. Someone mentioned changing it a second time after a few thousand miles but I haven't decided about that yet. I'll send off a sample for testing and see how it comes back. I've never had a problem with Blackstone Labs but rememeber reading about someone else doing it too. Is anyone better than the other guys?
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