Just an FYI, if you ever do decide to go with a Hemi AMW4x4 can do a Diesel to Hemi swap. It currently runs about $10K more than the gas to hemi swap for the extra fabrication & programming work but they stated that if they start doing more of them that price could come down.
The DEF gauge is a sonar type gage, not a float gauge. It bounces a signal from the bottom of the tank and waits for the signal to return to measure the level. It's wildly inaccurate and can be slow. I've seen it say I have 250 miles to go, and didn't change for another 800-some miles. This is why I usually wait until I'm within 100 miles left and then I fill it.
I actually knew some truck stops had DEF pumps but forgot about it when needing it for the Gladiator. We also use it in an F350 and that is the only way I've ever filled a DEF tank without making a mess. Thank you for the reminder!
Thank you! My initial search didn't find any good info, that's why I asked here. After your reply then rephrasing the search, I found it. I'm fairly sure what happened is that I filled the tank too full and submerged the sensor. From what I read, once you do that it creates a problem and it won't read correctly until the level comes down below the sensor. Rookie mistake and I'll be more careful next time.
Once you get time. You will have to do the fuel filler neck mod. Removing the restrictor.
That’s all very normal. It’s to protect the dealership from fraud. Because people suck and try to defraud dealerships way more than vice versa. I’ve watched the policies change over the years as customers find new ways to try to, and sometimes actually successfully, screw dealerships out of many many thousands of dollars. It is unfortunate that honest people get caught up in it too, but you’d be shocked at the things I’ve seen over the years.
That is actually one of the first thing on the list for this weekend. I'm planning to use channel locks and turn it as gently as possible until the tabs give up. I've seen videos of people doing and it didn't look that hard. I've also got one saved where they completely remove it and push the tabs in with a screwdriver. If it feels like I'm using too much force I'll go that route.
It is definitely a crazy world these days. I certainly understand a dealership protecting themselves but there was more to it than just that. Not one single thing really stood out but I got a bad feeling from them. Spending the time and money to fly out there just didn’t make sense at that point.
Ran my (stock) set of Falken Wildpeak AT's at 37psi. Got 65k out of that set. Rode a little harshly, but not terrible. Just swapped to Milestar Patagonia XT's (35"x12.5"R17) but have not re-geared yet. Running them @ 37psi also. Definitely a better ride than either the Falkens, or the (33"x12.5"R17) BFG KO2's on my wife's JKU (which I run @33 psi).... so far at least. Only have ~400 miles on the Patagonias so far though.
The original plan was to take the Clayton lift off the 3.6 Gladiator and use it along with new springs on the diesel. After the long trip home and because it rides and drives so well, I'm not sure I want to mess with the suspension. Without lifting it, I wouldn't use the 37x12.5R17s off the 3.6 and that would hurt because they have less than 20k on them. The plus side of it is that I could sell them and the -12mm offset wheels that poke out further than I like, and get some wheels that I'm happy with.
Just ordered 5 gallon jugs of 100% synthetic European 5w-40 Amsoil and 1 Mopar filter. With enough oil for two changes, why only one filter you ask? After the oil, that's all my debit card could handle for today
Thank you! We get a discount at the local parts store so I paid $85 and didn't think that was terrible. I am not set on Mopar, usually I buy Wix filters. They didn't have one in stock for the JT though.
