2.5” lift input

[Flyinarmbar]

Hello all, I’m thinking of purchasing 2.5” Clayton lift for my 2020 sport S off of mkt place. I have about 120,000 miles and was planning on replacing shocks n springs anyway and leveling. The Kit has about 2k miles. Guy went with taller lift. kit comes with springs, billstein 5100 shocks, and lower control arms. I have max tow and Dana 44 pkg. what else would I need to install this kit. Prob going with 35 or 37” tires. Do I need to regear? It’s my daily driver and I travel about 200 miles upstate about once a month or so. I’d like to keep ride quality close or the same. Thanks for any input

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[smlobx]

I have the AEV version of this lift and it works great. I have a Rubicon with 35’s so I can’t comment on the gearing except to say if you went with 37’s you’ll definitely feel it.

 

[Flyinarmbar]

Thanks, so just shocks, springs and lower control arms will do the trick? How is it on the hwy. I just have 33’s and do 90 mph no problem with minimal shake

 

[jdinny]

I have an AEV 2.5" lift with brackets on the shelf for my Gladiator after I recover from Knee replacement. That said, I have one in my 12 JK with GEO brackets since 2016, and the kit is awesome.
Our wheeling is more overland style with a few visits a year to Rausch Creek and it works great, also, handes on the road like a sports car.
It's been on Cooper 35's forever.
I love the kit, as I said, not a hard core offroader here, don't like dents at this stage of my life

 

[Metalhead]

Not sure I would ever buy a used lift kit but thats just me. I know lift kits are expensive. I was lucky to get the 2 inch Mopar lift while Quadratec had it on sale.

 

[S JEEPN]

The Clayton kits look to be well engineered with lots of adjustability to dial everything in. As long as you get a decent discount over new and all the components are included it should be worth the risk. Never had any of their products but people that run them seem satisfied. Do you know what type of spring setup they are they have differing levels to work better with different vehicle loads so it would be best to get what aligns with your needs.

 

[Mightytalldude]

I would look at the lower spring perch, they tend to be crushed at 50k+ miles, so with yours double that, they're toast. Clayton, Metalcloak, Teraflex sell them. A regear for 37's, optional for 35's but you'll feel a little sluggish off the line.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

You’ll want track bars too. So you can center the axles.

 

[Socket-Jockey]

Something to consider before getting the kit is to find out the lift-kit manufacturer recommends a front drive shaft replacement (upgrade). I have the Metal Cloak 2.5 GC lift. In the instructions, they HIGLY recommend dropping another 700 bones for a smaller diameter, strong front drive shaft. After installing the lift, I quickly realized, this should not have been recommendation, but a requirement. The MC2.5GC lift flexes soo much, the MC drive shaft actually scrapes on the exhaust. The stock drive shaft would certainly bind-up if flexed that much. I would assume Clayton, or other full suspension lift kits would recommend replacing the front drive shaft as well.

 

[SamJ3]

Most 2.5" lift kits I've seen do not include a requirement for a track bar. My personal experience installing a new Mopar lift kit, which netted about a 3" lift, is that we didn't need a new track bar to keep things straight. That kit included front LCAs, spring saddles, shocks and springs.

I do suggest adding a new heavier duty steering damper, especially considering your miles and your plans for taller tires. On my build, replacing the damper with a Fox IFP stabilizer made a noticable difference both on and off road.

Also, get a four wheel alignment after doing the lift. There are limited adjustments to make (toe, wheel centering, etc), but you'll know if you're tracking straight and how much your LCAs improved castor.

 

[GI Grandpa]

Hello all, I’m thinking of purchasing 2.5” Clayton lift for my 2020 sport S off of mkt place. I have about 120,000 miles and was planning on replacing shocks n springs anyway and leveling. The Kit has about 2k miles. Guy went with taller lift. kit comes with springs, billstein 5100 shocks, and lower control arms. I have max tow and Dana 44 pkg. what else would I need to install this kit. Prob going with 35 or 37” tires. Do I need to regear? It’s my daily driver and I travel about 200 miles upstate about once a month or so. I’d like to keep ride quality close or the same. Thanks for any input

If it has the Max Tow package with the Dana 44s and 4.10 gears you'll be okay with 35s but I think you wouldn't be happy with 37s without regearing. I live in Colorado so I regeared to 4.88s when I went to 35s after installing the AEV lift and the Jeep performs very well other than mileage.

 

[Stormtroopin]

Something to consider before getting the kit is to find out the lift-kit manufacturer recommends a front drive shaft replacement (upgrade). I have the Metal Cloak 2.5 GC lift. In the instructions, they HIGLY recommend dropping another 700 bones for a smaller diameter, strong front drive shaft. After installing the lift, I quickly realized, this should not have been recommendation, but a requirement. The MC2.5GC lift flexes soo much, the MC drive shaft actually scrapes on the exhaust. The stock drive shaft would certainly bind-up if flexed that much. I would assume Clayton, or other full suspension lift kits would recommend replacing the front drive shaft as well.

Do you disco your sway bar in the front? I only ask because I recently bought there fully adjustable arms set to pair with 2 inch coils all around and reached out to them about the front drive shaft. They said they don’t think it would be necessary. I never disco the front amd am curious if that’s why they didn’t think it would be necessary.

 

[Socket-Jockey]

Do you disco your sway bar in the front? I only ask because I recently bought there fully adjustable arms set to pair with 2 inch coils all around and reached out to them about the front drive shaft. They said they don’t think it would be necessary. I never disco the front amd am curious if that’s why they didn’t think it would be necessary.

my '25 Gladdy Rubicon has the SwayBar Disconnect system. When used, the front really flexes out.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

I just run the Anti-Rock and have on both Jeeps I’ve owned and wheeled. That system really works. Highly recommend.

 

[WhereInTarnation]

No upper arms?

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