2.5” lift input

[Wheelin98TJ]

Most 2.5" lift kits I've seen do not include a requirement for a track bar. My personal experience installing a new Mopar lift kit, which netted about a 3" lift, is that we didn't need a new track bar to keep things straight. That kit included front LCAs, spring saddles, shocks and springs.

I do suggest adding a new heavier duty steering damper, especially considering your miles and your plans for taller tires. On my build, replacing the damper with a Fox IFP stabilizer made a noticable difference both on and off road.

Also, get a four wheel alignment after doing the lift. There are limited adjustments to make (toe, wheel centering, etc), but you'll know if you're tracking straight and how much your LCAs improved castor.

The lowest base level 2.5” kit that Clayton offers includes front and rear track bars.

Sponsored

 

[Bjeepz]

Do you disco your sway bar in the front? I only ask because I recently bought there fully adjustable arms set to pair with 2 inch coils all around and reached out to them about the front drive shaft. They said they don’t think it would be necessary. I never disco the front amd am curious if that’s why they didn’t think it would be necessary.

The requirement for a new front driveshaft is related to the front shock extended length. The exact numbers are somewhere, I think it is anything more than 28.5 inches extended.

When not disconnecting you won't fully extend travel like the photo above as the sway bar prevents that, but if you're jumping your Jeep both sides will fully extend.

 

[Flyinarmbar]

I would look at the lower spring perch, they tend to be crushed at 50k+ miles, so with yours double that, they're toast. Clayton, Metalcloak, Teraflex sell them. A regear for 37's, optional for 35's but you'll feel a little sluggish off the line.

Thanks for the heads up.

 

[Flyinarmbar]

Something to consider before getting the kit is to find out the lift-kit manufacturer recommends a front drive shaft replacement (upgrade). I have the Metal Cloak 2.5 GC lift. In the instructions, they HIGLY recommend dropping another 700 bones for a smaller diameter, strong front drive shaft. After installing the lift, I quickly realized, this should not have been recommendation, but a requirement. The MC2.5GC lift flexes soo much, the MC drive shaft actually scrapes on the exhaust. The stock drive shaft would certainly bind-up if flexed that much. I would assume Clayton, or other full suspension lift kits would recommend replacing the front drive shaft as well.

Thanks. I’ll def check that out

 

[Flyinarmbar]

The lowest base level 2.5” kit that Clayton offers includes front and rear track bars.

Ok. The dude went up in lift so he prob kept them

 

[Flyinarmbar]

Most 2.5" lift kits I've seen do not include a requirement for a track bar. My personal experience installing a new Mopar lift kit, which netted about a 3" lift, is that we didn't need a new track bar to keep things straight. That kit included front LCAs, spring saddles, shocks and springs.

I do suggest adding a new heavier duty steering damper, especially considering your miles and your plans for taller tires. On my build, replacing the damper with a Fox IFP stabilizer made a noticable difference both on and off road.

Also, get a four wheel alignment after doing the lift. There are limited adjustments to make (toe, wheel centering, etc), but you'll know if you're tracking straight and how much your LCAs improved castor.

Thank you

 

[Flyinarmbar]

Do you disco your sway bar in the front? I only ask because I recently bought there fully adjustable arms set to pair with 2 inch coils all around and reached out to them about the front drive shaft. They said they don’t think it would be necessary. I never disco the front amd am curious if that’s why they didn’t think it would be necessary.

No I’ve never disconnected

 

[Flyinarmbar]

No upper arms?

No upper arms

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

No upper arms

Whoever had mine previously did the Mopar kit with just the MC lowers and stock uppers. I’ll eventually rip it all out and do something way better. Right now it rides like mierde. It’s drivable but I know it can be way better. If it’s driving take your time and do some really thorough research about all the components. Make sure they’ll do exactly what you’re going to ask of the Gladiator. It’s a pricey upgrade so getting it wrong can hurt.

 

[Gvsukids]

@Flyinarmbar use the +quote to place multiple quotes in one post.

 

[Brucewillys]

Hello all, I’m thinking of purchasing 2.5” Clayton lift for my 2020 sport S off of mkt place. I have about 120,000 miles and was planning on replacing shocks n springs anyway and leveling. The Kit has about 2k miles. Guy went with taller lift. kit comes with springs, billstein 5100 shocks, and lower control arms. I have max tow and Dana 44 pkg. what else would I need to install this kit. Prob going with 35 or 37” tires. Do I need to regear? It’s my daily driver and I travel about 200 miles upstate about once a month or so. I’d like to keep ride quality close or the same. Thanks for any input

I'm running a AEV 2" spacer lift with those billsteins on 37"x12.5 r17. I'd say try it then go regear if you miss the acceleration. I definitely needed my superchips flashcal+ to recalibrate the speedo because the shift points were trash with the 37's. I will say the billsteins were quite an improvement over my stock shocks. Much more planted and less like a yacht.
Pics because why not

 

[LouieL19]

I had installed a Clayton 2.5” ride right with Fox 2.0 shocks and 37’s on my 2020 sport s w/o max tow back in December 2025. I still have my 3.73’s in and it’s a lot slower now but still drivable. Definitely going to do a regear but I would feel it out first unless you have the money to spend. I do think I need a good steering stabilizer tho.

 

[Bjeepz]

I had installed a Clayton 2.5” ride right with Fox 2.0 shocks and 37’s on my 2020 sport s w/o max tow back in December 2025. I still have my 3.73’s in and it’s a lot slower now but still drivable. Definitely going to do a regear but I would feel it out first unless you have the money to spend. I do think I need a good steering stabilizer tho.

I have been using Falcon pass through stabilizers on my Gladiators and JLU's and notice a positive improvement in steering feel with 37's and 35's.

My 1st Gladiator was a 2020 Overland with 3.73's and it had 285/75r17's = 34x11.5 and I found it great as I had a tacoma before that on 33.5's. My last Mojave had 37's on 4.10's and I found it perfectly fine. I don't feel like my current WIll'ys XR with 4.56 and 35's has any real noticeable difference in acceleration but it does shift better and holds higher gears better. As for MPG's it is so close I can't really say, this summer long road trips may prove there is a real difference but in winter up here it is impossible to tell.

 

[UTRocky]

I want to get the 3.5" from Clayton - I am in a Willys so Dana 44s 3.73 axle - my end is 35/36" tires. Besides upgrading brake lines, anything else need to be done to ensure vehicle lasts 40 years? I keep being told repair shop social media videos that lifting a vehicle is fine but it ruins life of the vehicle.

Do I need to do shocks and drive shafts, shocks bilsteins the best?

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

I want to get the 3.5" from Clayton - I am in a Willys so Dana 44s 3.73 axle - my end is 35/36" tires. Besides upgrading brake lines, anything else need to be done to ensure vehicle lasts 40 years? I keep being told repair shop social media videos that lifting a vehicle is fine but it ruins life of the vehicle.

Do I need to do shocks and drive shafts, shocks bilsteins the best?

A lift does not ruin a vehicle. You have more work to do to maintain the lift but as long as you do proper maintenance on the lift and the vehicle itself you should have no problem having a vehicle that long. It may need a new engine or ball joints or bushing because they wear out from use, but that’s to be expected. I think people who say the vehicles life span is shortened is because 90+% of people do not know how to or care to properly maintain their vehicle. More people are “use and discard” types these days.

Best things you can buy for a properly planned lift is a good quality grease gun and dependable tools to maintain it.

Sponsored